
Go{)yrightN° 

COPYKrCHT DEPOSIT. 



THE AMERICAN CARNATION 



A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. Ltd. 



THE AMERICAN 
CARNATION 

HOW TO GROW IT 



ILLUSTRATED 



BY 

CHARLES WILLIS WARD 

Of The Cottage Gardens, Queens, N. Y. 



NE W YORK 

A. T. De La Mare Printing and Publishing Company 

1903 



MAY b i<i03 

Copyright tntty 

CLASsI^ 0. XXo. No. 
COPY B. ' 



Copyright, 1902 

BY A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. Ltd. 

New York' 



S) e M c a t i u 

TO THAT WORTHY Bo'dV OF ENTHUSIASTS 

MY FELLOW MEMBERS OF 
THE AMERICAN CARNATION SOCIETY 



WHOSE LOVE OF AND DEVOTION TO THE 
DIVINE FLOWER HAVE ENABLED THEM 
TO ACCOMPLISH SO MUCH IN SO SHORT 
A PERIOD OF TIME, THIS VOLUME IS 
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 



PREFACE 




il()AIIi fi\c or six years since, in an unguarded moment, I 
|iromise(l my friend, Mr. A. T. De La Mare, President of the 
)ublisliing firm which bears his name, that 1 would write a 
work upon the American Carnation. I scarcely knew at the 
time the magnitude of the task which 1 had so lightly agreed 
to undertake, and (lid not recognize it until the work was under way. While 
keenly appreciating my unfitness, through lack of the necessary early training 
which every florist should have, to impart practical knowledge to my fellow 
carnation growers, the work was, nevertheless, undertaken with an earnest 
desire to do the carnation fraternity some good, as well as to increase the 
interest of the general public in the Divine Flower. During the twelve 
years in which I have been trying to learn successful carnation culture, 
large numbers of plants and flowers have been grown, and a small fortune 
ex])ended in ex]3erimental work. While meeting with a measure of success 
that has at times been very encouraging, there have been still enough serious 
failures to rob the work of much of its pleasures. 

The growing of carnations was commenced merely as an occupation 
by means of which to while away time which hung heavily upon my hands, 
as a consequence of being ordered out of business for the purpose of 
recuperating impaired health, and at first little thought was had of continuing 
it as a permanent employment. However, as the work progressed it became 
more and more interesting, which interest was especially increased by the 
delightful occupation of hybridizing and producing new varieties : and I 
am now quite satisfied that the venture has contributed largely to the recovery 
of my health, and if nothing more had been accomplished, the time, energy 
and capital expended have been well repaid. But I make free to believe that 
my efforts in assisting in the development of American carnation culture 
have been of material aid to the craft. It is unquestionably true that many 
carnations are now grown where one was grown before, and larger and finer 
blooms are produced and sold at higher prices than was the case twelve 
years ago; and, in addition, the general public now hold the Divine Flower 
in greater esteem, and to this result I am proud to believe that my quota of 
assistance has contributed. 



Preface 

This book has been prepared under somewhat unfavorable and discour- 
aging circumstances, as during the period of work much unexpected addi- 
tional labor has fallen upon my shoulders, materially hindering the writing 
of the volume and doubtless impairing its value. 

To Mr. Alex. Wallace, Editor of The florists' Exchange, New York, 
my thanks and the gratitude of the readers of the book are due for his 
efficient aid in editing the original manuscript and revising proofs : also 
for his researches into the early history of the carnation, and his c<.)mpilation 
and correction of the matters contained in Chapter I. 

To Mr. Charles L. Allen, of Floral Park, N. Y., who kindly placed at 
my disposal his peerless horticultural library, as well as lenihng generous 
aid in assisting my researches, I am greatly indebted for much infonnation 
regarding the ancient culture of carnations. 

I am also similarly indebted to "The Carnation," by Thomas Hogg, 
published in 1830; to Don's Gardeners' Dictionary, to Nicholson's Dictionary 
of Gardening, and to the Cyclopedia of American Horticulture. 

To Mr. Fred Dorner, of Lafayette, Ind., the Father of the Carnation 
in the West ; to that good old horticulturist, Mr. Charles Zeller. of 
Flatbush, Long Island; to Mr. Eugene Dailledouze. son of Mr. John 
Dailledouze, of the old-time firm of Dailledouze, Zeller & Card, of Flatbush, 
N. Y. : to Mr. Sewell Fisher, of Framingham, Mass., and Mr. William 
Swayne, of Kennett Square, Pa., I am indebted for information and 
assistance in ascertaining the early history of carnation culture in America, 
and for many valuable suggestions given me during past years. I am 
also particularly indebted to the following gentlemen, who have so kindly 
contributed the chapters upon cultural methods as practiced in their 
immediate localities: Mr. Peter Fisher, Ellis, Mass.: Mr. Richard 
Witterstsetter, Sedamsville, O. : Mr. E. G. Hill. Richmond. Ind.: Mr. 
Henry Weber, Oakland, Md. : Mr. John H. Sievers. San Francisco. Cal. ; 
Mr. W. R. Shelmire, Atlanta, Ga. : Mr. Fred Dorner, Lafayette, Ind.; 
and Mr. John H. Dunlop, Toronto, Ontario. 

If bv means of this humble efifort I shall have succeeded in rendering 
my brother carnationists material aid, and shall have lightened the pathway 
of those enthusiasts who are now springing up and becoming lovers of and 
ardent devotees to the culture of the Divine Flower, I shall be satisfied that 
the volume has not been written in vain. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

The Origin and Early History of the Carnation . . 17-30 

CHAPTER H. 

The Carnation in America ..... 3^-37 

CHAPTER HI. 

General Greenhouse Culture ..... 38-48 

Raising Plants from Seed — Propagation from Cuttings . 38 

Potting Young Carnation Stock ..... 39 
Planting Carnations in tlie Field — Preparing Field Soils — 

Cutting back or Stopping .... 40 
Preparation of Soil for Greenhouse Culture — The English 

Method— The Field Method .... 41 

Filling Benches — Benching Carnations ... 41 

Early versus Late Lifting ..... 42 
Digging Plants from Field — Selection of Stock in Digging 

— Planting on Benches ..... 43 

Watering the Bench after Planting — Shading . . 44 

Cultivation of Soil in Benches — Staking and Tying . 46 

Feeding Benched Plants — Stopping or Topping . . 47 

Disbudding — Insects and Fumigation — Diseases . . 48 

CHAPTER IV. 

Soils ......... 49-6o 

Preparation of Soils for Bench Culture ... 5° 

Preparation of Bench Soils in the Field ... 52 

Composition of Potting Soil for Young Plants . . S3 

Sterilizing Soils ....... 56 

CHAPTER V. 

Manures and Fertilizers ..... 61-70 

What Becomes of Our Fertility? .... 62 

Phosphoric Acid ...... 64 

Potash ......-• 65 

Liquid Manures ...... 66 

Natural Manures .....•• 69 



Contents 



CHAPTER VI. 

Pkopagatinc and Shipping Young Stock . . . 71-86 

Like Produces Like ...... 71 

Propagating House — Construction of Propagating Bench 77 

Propagating Mediums ..... 79 

Putting the Cuttings in the Sand Bench ... 81 

Packing Cuttings for Shipment .... 84 

Propagation by Layering ..... 85 

CHAPTER Vn. 
Treatment of Young Carnation Stock Preparatory to 

Planting Out ....... 87-93 

Shifting ........ 89 

Pinching Back or Stopping ..... 9° 

CHAPTER VHL 

Field Culture of Carnations ..... 94-101 

Cultivation after Planting ..... 97 

Stopping Carnations in the Field .... 98 

CHAPTER IX. 

Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 102- no 

Filling the Benches ...... 102 

Marking Out the Bench — Digging the Plants from the Field 105 

Watering ....... 108 

Shading the Carnation Houses before Planting . . 109 

CHAPTER X. 
Treatment After Benching and LIntil the Plants are in 

Bloom . . . . . . . _■ 111-117 

Staking or Wiring . . . . m 

Cultivation of Soils on Benches . . . 114 

Disbudding . . ■ ■ • 116 

CHAPTER XI. 

Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers . 1 18-126 

The Bunch Method and the Box Method ... 122 

CHAPTER XII. 

Insects and Preventives ..... 127-133 

Green Fly 127 

Red Spider 128 

Use of Salt as a Preventive of Red Spider . . . 130 

Thrips 131 

Cut Worms ....... 132 

Carnation Stalk Borer ..... I33 



Contents 



CHAPTER XIII. 

Diseases anu Injuries ...... 154-143 

Carnation Rust ...... 135 

Spraying Formulas Which Have Been Recommended as 

Curative .'\gencies for Rust — Carnaticm Spot . . 137 

Fairy Ring Spot — Stem Rot ..... 138 

Remedies and Preventives for Stem Rot . . . 141 

Bacteriosis ....... 142 

CHAPTER XIV. 

Packing and Sho'pinc Field-Grown Plants . . 144-147 
Treatment of Fichl-Grovvn Plants When Received After a 

Long Shipment ...... 146 

CHAPTER XV. 

Forcing Houses for Carnations ..... 148-160 

Aspect of Forcing Houses ..... 154 

New Galvanized-Iron U-Bar Construction . . . 159 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Bench Construction ...... 161-169 

The Ordinary Wooden Bencli Buih Upon Posts — Posts . 161 

Sohd Beds 163 

The Ventilated Tile Bench— The Suh-Irrigation Bench . 164 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Sub-Irrigation ........ 170-176 

CHAPTER XVHI. 

Greenhouse Heating ...... 177-188 

Hot-Water Systems— The Open E.xpansion Tank .Method 177 

The Pressure Method — Sectional Boilers . . 178 
Firebox or Locomotive Boiler — Horizontal Tubular 

Boilers ....... 1/9 

The Closed or Perkins Method- The Pump Method . 180 

Steam-Heating Systems— The Gravity .Method ... 1S2 

The Positive Return Method .... 183 

Pump Exhaust — The Vacuum Method . . . 185 

The Single-Pipe Method — Types of Steam Boilers . 186 

Fuels — Bituminous Coal — Anthracite .... 187 

Coke— Crude Petroleum or Fuel Oil . . . 188 

CHAP'I'ER XIX. 

Carnations for Summer Blooming and Pot Culture . . 189-195 

Bedding Carnations . . . . ■ ■ iQO 

Hardy Carnations— Carnations for Pot Culture . . igi 

Top Dressing ....... I93 



Contents 



CHAPTER XX. 

Raising Carnations from Seed — Cross Breeding and Fertil- 
izing ......... 

Introducing New Varieties Into Commerce 

The Growing of New Varieties .... 

CHAPTER XXI. 
Various Classifications of the Carnation — Traits and Pe- 
culiarities — Sports and Variations — Seed Sports 



CHAPTER XXII. 



The Ideal Carnation 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
The Future of the Carnation — Who Shall Grow Carnations 
— Profits of Carnation Growing — Does It Pay to Do 
Things Well? ....... 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Monthly Calendar of Operations .... 

CHAPTER XXV. 
The American Carnation Society .... 
American Carnation Nomenclature .... 

CHAPTER XXVI. 
Carnation Culture in Different Geographical Localities on 
the North American Continent, with Biographical 
Sketches of the Writers ..... 

Carnation Culture in Lafayette, Ind. .... 

Frederick Dorner ...... 

Carnation Culture in Massachusetts .... 

Peter Fisher ....... 

Carnation Culture in Richmond, Indiana 

Edward Gurney Hill ...... 

Carnation Culture in the Mountains .... 

Henry Weber ....... 

Carnation Culture in Ohio ..... 

Richard Witterststter ..... 

Growing Carnations in the South .... 

Warren R. Shelmire ...... 

Carnation Culture in California .... 

John H. Sievers ...... 

Carnation Culture in Canada ..... 

John H. Dunlop ...... 

Charles Zeller ....... 

lohn Dailledouze ...... 



PAGE 

196-217 
212 
216 

218-225 
226-231 

232-238 
239-246 

247-256 
251 



257-290 
257 
259 
260 
265 
266 
269 
270 
273 
274 
278 
279 
281 



288 



COLORED PLATES 

Facing Page 
Plate I. — Seedling Carnations (Ward; .... 48 

Plate II. — Seedling Carnations (Ward) .... 12S 

Plate III. — Carnation Prosperity (Miles) .... 176 

Plate IV. — Carnation Mrs. T. W. Lawson (Fisher) . . . 240 

ILLUSTRATIONS 

I'.AGE 

Cliark-s Willis Waril ..... Frontispiece 

Original Single Carnation and Its Development into a Donble Flower 19 
An English Bizarre Carnation . . . -23 

Carnation Governor Roosevelt ...... 26 

Carrying the Plants to the Greenhouse . . . . -30 

An Artistic Decoration with Carnations .... 32 

Establishment of Dailledouze Bros., Flatbush, N. Y. . . 33 

Views at the Cottage Gardens Range, Queens, N. Y. — Lord & Burn- 
ham Co. Construction ■■■■•. 35 
A California Carnation Field . . . . .36 

The J. D. Thompson Carnation Co. Range, Joliet, 111. . . 37 

House of Carnation Governor Roosevelt Just Planted . 42 

House of Carnation Governor Roosevelt Just Coming into Bloom . 45 

Bench of Carnation Governor Roosevelt — Illustrating Combination 

Method of Supports ....... 46 

Soil Sterilizer — Steam Pipes in Position Ready for Filling in Soil 55 

Header ......... 57 

Soil Sterilizer in Operation ...... 58 

Soil Sterilizer in Operation — Sterilizing Soil on the Bench . 59 

Abnormal Development — Cohering of Petals . . . . 6g 

Desirable and Undesirable Cuttings . . . . ■ T^ 

Propagating Wood ....... 74 

Propagating Bench Shaded with Curtains . . -75 

Short Span to South Propagating House — Interior View 76 

Brick-bottomed Propagating Bench . , . . ■ 78 

Short Span to South Propagating House— E.\terior View . . yi) 

Tool for Firming Sand . . .80 

Putty Knife ........ 81 

Young Carnation Plant in 2-inch Pot Ready for Shifting 90 

Carnation Plants Ready for Planting in Field ... 91 

A New York Wholesale Florist's Window . -93 

Showing Method of Stopping Plants in Pots ... 99 

14 



Illustrations 



PAGE 
lOI 



115 
117 
119 
121 
123 
124 
129 

140 
142 

148 



Carnation Enchantress— Single Bloom 

Soil Sterilizer in Position— Filling the Bench .103 

The Carnation Field— Ready for Lifting . . .104 

Digging the Plants from the Field ..... 106 

The Same Field Ten Minutes After Digging Was Commenced . 107 

Setting Carnation Plants on the Bench .... 109 

Carnation Viola Allen— Single Bloom . . . .no 

Illustrating Wire Ring Supports . . . . .112 

Illustrating End Supports of Iron for Stretching Wire . .113 

Bench of Carnation William Scott— Illustrating Supporting with Wire 
Netting, and Wire and String .... 

Carnation Prosperity— Single Bloom 

A Wholesale Grower's Flower Room .... 

Bunch of Carnations with Name Tag .... 

Case of Carnation Blooms— Illustrating Box Method of Shipping 
Interior of a Wholesale Florist's Store in New York City 
Red Spider ....... 

Thrips Tabaci ...... 

Carnation Leaves Affected with Fusarium Leaf-spot 

Carnation Leaves Affected with Bacteriosis 

Carnation Plants Packed for Shipment 

Original Type of Sash House Used for Growing Carnations 

Section of Three-quarter Span Carnation House— Hitchings & Co. 

Construction ........ 140 

Section Showing Latest Type of Carnation House— Lord & Burn- 
ham Co. Construction ....... 151 

A Canadian Carnation Range— J. H. Dunlop, Toronto . . 152 

A Canadian Carnation Range— The Dale Estate, Brampton, Ont. . 153 

Interior View of Carnation House, Briarcliff Farms, Ossining,N. Y.— 

Hitchings & Co., Builders ...... 155 

House of Carnation Enchantress in a Western Establishment . .156 

Even-span Propagating House — Exterior View . . .158 

New Galvanized-Iron U-Bar ...... 159 

Type of U-Bar Semi-Curvilinear Roofed Carnation House— Pierson- 

Sefton Co., Builders ..... 160 

End of Wooden Bench . . . .162 

Cross-Section of Solid Bed ...... 163 

Iron Bearer for Sub-Irrigation Bench . . . . .165 

Cross-Section Sub-Irrigation Bench ..... i66 

Sub-Irrigation Bench Ready for Cementing . . . .167 

Sub-Irrigation Benches Ready for Irrigating Tile — Built on Sloping 

Ground ........ 168 

Sub-Irrigation Benches — Testing the Cement Tanks . . .171 

Section of Sub-Irrigation Bench— Showing Root System of Plants 173 
Sub-Irrigation Tile — Showing Root System of Plants . . 174 

Sub-Irrigation Bench — Showing Manner of Laying Terra Cotta 

Foundation and Protecting Supporting Columns . . 175 

15 



Illustrations 



Cross-Breediiig and Fertilizing — Illustrating Reproductive Organs 
Hybridizing Tools ....... 

Types of Good Calyces ....... 

A Bursted Carnation ....... 

A Vase of Selected Seedlings ...... 

Carnations Governor Roosevelt, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, Adonis and 
Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson ...... 

Freak Carnation Flowers ....... 

Bizarre Seedling — Single Bloom ..... 

Bizarre Seedling — Single Bloom ...... 

Fancy Varieties — Viola Allen, Judge Hinsdale, Mrs. Bradt, Fancy 
Seedling ........ 

White Varieties — Shasta, White Seedling, Alba, Lizzie McGowan 
Yellow \'aricties — Golden Beauty, Fancy, Yellow Seedling, Novelty. 
Golden Eagle .... 

The Cottage Gardens Carnation Range in a Blizzard 
House of Carnation Harry Fenn 
Old English Types of Ideal Picotees and Carnations 
Portrait — F'rederick Dorner 

— Peter Fisher 

— Edward Gurney Hill 

— Henry Weber 

—Richard Wittcrsta?ttcr 

— Warren R. Shelmire 

— John H. Sievers 

— John H. Dunlop . 

— Charles Zeller . 

— John Dailledouze 



P.\GE 

196 
198 
200 
202 

203 

205 
207 
20S 
20g 



223 
228 
259 
265 
269 
274 
278 
281 
283 




CHAPTER I 

The Origin and Early History of the Carnation 

THE carnation, Dianthus Caryophyllus, erroneously called "Pink" by 
many people, is a native of southern Europe. As found in its wild 
state, it is a half hardy herbaceous perennial, growing about two feet 
in height. The original flower was either of flesh color or a shade of pinkish 
mauve. It was a single bloom, about one inch in diameter, composed of 
five broad petals. Its natural period of blooming in the feral state is from 
June to August. 

The carnation is abundant in Normandy, France, and it is believed by 
some writers that it was introduced into Great Britain from that country. So 
recently as 1874, EUacombe found it covering the old castle of Falaise, in 
which William the Cpnqueror was born. It is found in England on many 
of the old castles of Norman construction ; and the same writer is of the 
belief that it was introduced there " by the Norman builders, perhaps, as a 
pleasant memory of their Norman houses ; though it may have been acci- 
dentally introduced with the Normandy (Caen) stone, of which part of the 
castles are built." 

The history of the carnation antedates the time of Christ, as it was 
mentioned and described by Theophrastus as long ago as 300 years B. C. 
Theophrastus gave the genus the name of Dianthus, from the Greek dios, 
divine, and anthos, flower. The specific name, Caryophyllus, from the Greek 
Caryon, meaning nut, and Phyllon, meaning leaf, was undoubtedly taken 
from the name of the clove tree (Caryophyllus aromaticus), and applied to the 
species because of the clove-like fragrance of its blooms. The common 
name, carnation, is generally supposed to be derived from the Latin carnis, 
flesh, and refers to the flesh-colored flowers of the original type. Old writers, 
however, particularly those of the sixteenth century, allude to the plant as the 
"Coronation," having reference to the employment of the flowers in the 
classic coronas, or chaplets; or, as Lyte has it, from "the flowers dented, or 
toothed above — like to a littell crownet." 
•2 17 



The Origin and Earl}- History of the Caruatiou 

Spencer, in his Shepherd's Calendar, says : 

"Bring hither the pink and purple cokimbine with gilHflowers; 
Bring coronations and soppes-in-wine, worn of paramours." 

In Chaticer's time, the flower was named clove gill-flower, and it is be- 
lieved the plant was in cultivation in England in the reign of Edward III., 
and at that period was commonly used to give a spicy flavor to ale and wine. 
In Chaucer's works occurs the following: 

"There springen herbes, grete and smale ; 
Tlie hcoris and the sc-t-ewalc. 

And many a clone gelofre and notemuge to put in ale, 
Whether it be moist or stale." 

Turner names the plant 'Tncarnacyon,'" and Gerarde identifies the ap- 
pellation with the color carnation. 

In more modern times. Dr. Prior takes "Coronation" as the original form, 
and Britton and Holland think his opinion probably correct. Stevens says 
that before the time of Shakespeare, "Carnardine" was the familiar name 
of the flower. In an old play of that era appears the couplet : 

"Grograms, sattins, velvet fine; 
The rusy-colc'urcd carnardine." 

Shakespeare wrote about it in "A Winter's Tale," and makes Perdita 
say, "The fairest flowers o' the season are our carnations." This was in 
the year 1601, and from that date on the name carnation appears to have 
been attached to the plant. 

The name gillyflower — formerly called gillyvor, gyllofer and gilofre- 
is said to be a corruption of the Latin caryophyllum, a close (Greek karno- 
phyllon). By others it is thought to be a corruption of July flower. Drayton 
gives warrant for the latter interpretation in the following: 

"The brave carnation then, with sweet and sovereign power; 
So of his color called although a July flower." 

In addition to its utility in the flavoring of dainty dishes as well as 
liquors, for which purpose it was doubtless used as a substitute for the more 
costly Indian cloves, the gillyflower was thought to possess medicinal 
properties. Gerarde assures us that "the conserve made of the flowers of the 
clove gilliflower and sugar is exceeding cordiall, and wonderfully above 
measure doth comfort the heart, being eaten now and then." It was also 
thought good against pestilential fevers. 



The Orij^in and Early Histoiy of the Carnation 

When the carnation became a "florists' flower" in England it is difficult 
to state, but it must have been prior to Shakespeare's time, because Gerarde 
says, of the sorts of cloves, carnations and pinks : "A large volume would not 
suffice to write of every one . . . particularly considering how every 
year and every climate and country bringeth forth new sorts, and such as 




The original single Carnation and its development into a double Hower 

1 — Original 5-petalcd flower 2 — One petal added 

3— Several petals added 4^A nearly double flower 

3 — Flower fullv double but not increased in size 



have not heretofore been written of;" a remark which will well apply to 
modern conditions. 

The carnation has been in cultivation for more than 2,000 years, and in 
early Greek history was also mentioned under the name of gilliflower. The- 
ophrastus, in his history of plants, says : "The Greeks cultivated roses, gilli- 
flowers, violets, narcissi and iris ;" the gilliflower, as has been shown, being the 



The Origin and Early History of the Carnation 

old English name for carnation. However, the carnation cultivated at that 
period was a different type of flower from the species which has been brought 
into prominence and commercial importance by American horticulturists. The 
type of carnation grown by European gardeners at that time, and which is 
still largely the variety commonly grown in Europe, is usually kept in cold 
frames, or cool houses, during the winter time, and as spring approaches 
the plants are brought into blooming quarters ; that is, the pots are placed upon 
stages exposed to the warm sun, where they can be protected until June or 
July, at which time there is a profusion of blossoms, which endure for a 
comparatively short period, the plants seemingly becoming exhausted ; conse- 
quently, these varieties are not fitted for winter forcing, and may be classed 
as a race of summer flowering carnations. 

In England, the cultivation of the carnation under glass for winter 
blooming may also be said to be of recent origin. In Hovey's Magazine for 
1862 occurs an article, entitled "Carnations in Winter," reproduced from The 
Gardeners' Chronicle, of London. The writer of that article says, among 
other things : 

"Carnations in winter ! Does not the name of Clove Gillyflower, or July flower, 
which belongs to the plant, negative such a notion? For such questions we can only 
reply that carnations in winter, and carnations of very good quality, too, are amongst 
the comparatively modern improvements in floriculture, which, like the recently intro- 
duced bouquet dahlias and many other favorites now within our reach, we owe to the 
intelligent skill of far-seeing florists, who, having detected in their seed beds some novel, 
though perhaps but slightly varied form, bearing indications of a new and desirable 
feature, have followed up the limit until they have been able to bring out some old 
favorites with a new face. 

"And yet, in respect to the tree carnations, which are those that yield winter flowers, 
the hint was given many years ago, so that we can only speak of the result as 'compara- 
tively modern.' The race, however, seems to have died out amongst us for many years, 
and to have only again revived at a very recent period. Some forty years ago, it seems, 
the first variety of tree carnations, one with crimson flowers, made its way into our 
gardens." 

The National Carnation and Picotee Society of England was founded in 
1850. 

The carnation as a garden plant was introduced into America over one 
hundred years ago; the exact date, however, being uncertain. In 1831, 
the Massachusetts Horticultural Society offered a prize for carnations. At 
one of the society's exhibitions, held August i, 1829, a seedling was shown, 
and the Messrs. Winship and David Haggerston exhibited one hundred 
varieties in 1830. 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

The American carnation, which is known as the perpetual flowering, or 
winter blooming carnation, is a distinct race, and differs materially from the 
types of European origination now usually known among European gar- 
deners. The American carnation is a descendant of, and is derived from, the 
French race of carnations, which is known as remontant, or monthly, and 
which was originated about the year 1840 by a French gardener, M. Dalmais, 
of Lyons, France, who introduced the first real constant blooming carnation 
about 1844. iDalmais is said to have secured this variety by artificially crossing 
the carnation Demahon with the variety Biohon, and the result of this cross- 
ing was again hybridized with the Flemish carnation, and the progeny was 
repeatedly crossed until the type was fixed. In 1846, he obtained a great 
number of varieties of this race, comprising many and varied colors. 

Another distinguished horticulturist, M. Schmidt, of Lyons, continued 
the work of Dalmais, and obtained and introduced many, at that day, im- 
proved varieties, which remained in cultivation for a number of years. , The 
work was again taken up by another enthusiastic French horticulturist, M. 
Alphonse Alegatiere, also of Lyons, who followed up the development so 
well that he obtained marked improvements in the way of varieties, with 
strong, rigid stems. In 1866, the number of varieties of this race of car- 
nations was largely increased, and the name of "tree carnation" was applied 
to the race. 

The first of this race of carnations to be introduced into America was 
imported about the year 1852 by Charles Marc, a French florist, then located 
at Bloomingdale, New York, who cultivated a number of varieties which he 
called remontant carnations, but the names of which he kept secret, possibly 
for the purpose of preventing competing florists from importing the plants 
from France. But between the years 1856 and 1866, the firm of Dailledouze, 
Zeller & Card, then located at Flatbush, Long Island, secured from a private 
gardener of Lyons, France, carnation seed of the remontant, or monthly type ; 
also some plants of the variety La Purite, which was described as of a beauti- 
ful rose color; also Mont Blanc, white, and Manteaux Royal, a variegated 
red and white. 

Mr. Chas. Zeller, the sole practicing survivor of the above firm, states 
that in 1858 the firm obtained the first seedling from seed of their own rais- 
ing. This was a pure white, fringed variety, with a free, vigorous habit. It 
attracted the attention of all visitors to the firm's greenhouses, and was 



Histon' of the DeveloiJinent of the Carnation 

esteemed as a strange and remarkable plant. It was named Mrs. Degraw, 
in honor of the wife of the then president of the Brooklyn Horticultural 
Society. At the same time another white variety named Flatbush was pro- 
duced; these being introduced to the trade about 1864. Between the years 
1866 and 1872 several varieties were produced by Mr. Zeller, which were 
grown a number of years chiefly as pot plants, among them a pure white 
of fine habit and long, rigid stem, which was named and introduced as 
Louise Zeller. 

The firm of Daillcdouze & Zeller issued a catalogue between 1862 and 
1872, but as this catalogue is not dated, the exact period of its publication is 
not known to the writer. The firm oiifered for sale plants of fifty-four 
varieties of carnations, which were described in this list, at prices ranging 
from seventy-five cents to three dollars each. In this catalogue were listed 
the varieties, Mrs. Degraw, Flatbush, General Grant and ]\Irs. Zeller. 

During this period another seedling, which was called A'ictor Emanuel, 
synonym Astoria, was raised by Donati, a I^'rcnch florist, then living in 
Astoria, L. I. The ground color of this variety was yellow, flaked and 
striped with red. This became one of the most famous of the early American 
carnations, and remained tmder cultivation for a number of years, being 
probably the ancestor of most of the yellow American carnations which arc 
in existence to-day. 

Thus it appears that nearly a half century ago the development of the 
American carnation was begun on Long Island, where its culture has been 
continued and expanded until that section has become one of the chief centers 
of the carnation industry of this countr\'. 

In the l)cginning of the loth century, a form of carnation craze overran 
England, and during this period carnation culture was brought to great 
perfection ; blooms, three and four inches in diameter, held upon erect, stiff 
stems thirty to forty inches in length, Iieing considered the criterion of a 
perfect carnation. The following description of carnations grown at that time, 
taken from "Don's Gardeners' Dictionary," published in 1830, will give a fair 
idea of what the English carnation exhibitor was expected to produce: 

"Critc-rion 01 a fine double carnation. 'I'hc stem should be strong, tall, and straight; 
not less than 30 inches or more than 45 inches high ; the footstalks supporting the 
flowers should be strong, elastic, and of a proportionate length. The flower should 
be at least 3 inches in diameter, consisting of a great number of large, well-formed 
petals, but neither so many as to give it too full and crowded an appearance, nor so few 
as to make it appear thin and empty. The petals should be long, broad and substantial, 
particularly those of the lower and outer circle, commonly called the guard leaves ; 
these should rise perpendicular about half an inch above the calyx, and then turn off 



Histoiy of the Development of the Carnation 

gracefully in a horizontal direction, supporting the interior petals, and altogether 
forming a convex and nearly hemispherical corolla. The interior petals should rather 
decrease in size as they approach llu- center of the flower, which should be well tilled 
with them. The petals should be regularly disposed alike on every side, imbricating 




An English Bizarre 
Carnation 



m " The Carnation," by 
Thns. Hogg, published 
in 1839 



each other in such a manner that both their respective and united beauties may captivate 
the eye at the same instant ; they should be nearly fiat, however, a small degree of 
concavity, or inflection, at the broad end is allowable, but their edges should be per- 
fectly entire, that is to say, free from fringe or indenture. The calyx should be at least 
one inch in length, termin.iting in broad points sufficiently strong to hold the narrow 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

bases of the petals, in a close and circular body. Whatever colors the liowers may be 
possessed of, they should be perfectly distinct, and disposed in long, regular stripes, 
broadest at the edge of the lamina, and gradually becoming narrower as they approach 
the unguis, or base of the petal, there terminating in a fine point. Each petal should 
have a due proportion of white ; i. e., one-half or nearly so, which should be perfectly 
clear and free from spots." 

It will be noticed that the English grower strictly barred all carnations 
with fringed petals. This is in direct contradiction to the American idea of 
a fine carnation, for here the fringed petal is rather preferred. My own 
experience with American-bred carnations is that those varieties with fringed 
jjetals are more easily grown under our conditions, and the blooms are 
also better keepers than the shell-petaled varieties. 

The noted English horticulturist, Thomas Hogg, in his treatise on carna- 
tion culture, published in 1839, emphasizes the cardinal points of a fine 
carnation as follows : 

"The excellence of a carnation is judged and estimated by the brightness and dis- 
tinctness of its various tints and hues, and by the formation or construction of the 
flower leaves or petals; the ground color should be of a clear white, and the flakes or 
stripes must run longitudinally through the leaves, not breaking off abruptly. In a 
perfect flower, or one that approaches nearest to perfection, every leaf should be striped 
according to its class, whether flake or bizarre: plain or self-colored leaves are accounted 
a great defect. The calyx, or cup. after the petals are unfolded, must remain entire 
or unburst, and the large external petals, or guard leaves, must be without crack or 
blemish, and the diameter of a show flower should never be less than three inches. It 
is also considered a great defect when the corolla is overcharged with petals, for the 
blossom in expanding generally bursts the cup ; and it is no less so, when it contains 
too few, though possessing the most brilliant and distinct colors. 

"The flower must be sufficiently double to form a kind of crown in the center, the 
petals rising one above another in regular order; the guard leaves in particular should 
be broad and long, and of a stout texture to support the rest, the edges of which must 
not be indented or fringed ; but plain and circular, like the leaves of a Provence rose. 
A flower whose corolla, or pod, is long, generally shoots forth the finest flower, and 
occasions the least trouble in attending to it. The stem, or foot stalk, must be straight 
and elastic, to support the blossoms firmly and gracefully, notwithstanding the stick 
which is applied to sustain it; the height of the stalk varies from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 
feet 6 inches, according to the habit of their growth. 

"The value of a flower is also greatly enhanced when it exhales a sweet and fra- 
grant perfume. All carnations possess this quality, but in very different degrees ; in 
some it is scarcely perceptible, while in others it is strikingly powerful. Odour seems 
to pievail most strongly in bizarred scarlets where there is a frequent recurrence of the 
clove stripe in the petals. 

24 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

"The preference which one class of flowers at times is said to obtain over another, 
depends entirely on the taste and fancy of the person who gives that preference. The 
scarlet bizarre is a favorite with one, the crimson with another, the purple flake with 
another, and so on in like manner with the rest. 

"There can be no certain or fixed rule why one is to be judged in this respect 
superior to another, where taste is the only criterion to go by. A flower possessed 
of all the properties called for by the rules and regulations laid down in the societies, 
where they are exhibited for prizes, is seldom or never met with." 

From the above it would appear that in Thomas Hogg's time only flakes, 
bizarres and picotees were considered good carnations, while at present the 
self colors are considered preferable in America. 

From these descriptions it would seem that we have as yet by no means 
reached the full development of this magnificent flower. But, as stated, the 
English variety is an entirely different race from that which has come to be 
known as the American carnation. It is not a perpetual bloomer, either in the 
open ground or upon stages, giving one large crop of flowers during the 
months of June and July, or August, according to the earliness of the variety. 
But little of the blood of the English carnation has been used by American hy- 
bridizers in the development of the American race, although the author 
secured some of the most perpetual blooming varieties of carnations that we 
have ; namely. General Maceo, General Gomez, Governor Roosevelt, and 
their progeny, by hybridizing American sorts with the pollen of the English 
variety Winter Cheer. 

About 1876, Mr. Rudolph Heintz, of Detroit, raised Heintz's White, one 
of the best-known varieties of American origin, which remained in general 
cultivation until 1895, o^ nearly 20 years. This variety passed into the hands 
of John Breitmeyer & Sons, of Detroit, Mich., and was disseminated by that 
firm. Mr. Heintz also originated another variety — Heintz's Red. 

Following the work of Dailledouze, Zeller and Donati comes that of Mr. 
Charles T. Starr, of Avondale, Pa. (who commenced as a florist about 
1870), and Mr. John Thorpe, of Queens, N. Y. In 1878, Starr began offer- 
ing to the trade seedling carnations of his own raising, his first offerings being 
the varieties Lord Clyde and Lydia. There is no record extant of the 
varieties he offered between the years 1878 and 1884, but, in 1884, he intro- 
duced the famous Buttercup, also Dawn, Century, Scarlet King, Field of 
Gold, Lady Emma, Philadelphia, Avondale, Mrs. Garfield, and a number of 
others. He continued the growing and introduction of seedling carnations 
until his death, which occurred in 1891. There is very little known of his 



History of the Development of the Carnation 



methods and theories, or of the pedigrees of his seedHngs. He once stated 
that Buttercup, Field of Gold, Venus, and Duke of York were all from one 
seed pod of Edwardsii. which was fertilized with the pollen of Astoria, 




Governor Roosevelt 

synonym Victor Emanuel ; and from this statement we are led to infer that 
Astoria was the ancestor of the yellow varieties of American carnations. 

26 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

Many of Mr. Starr's productions possessed great merit ; but owing to 
his moderate methods of advertising, few of the varieties reached the com- 
mercial importance wliich has been attained by the more recent intro- 
ductions. 

The veteran horticuhurist, j\lr. John Thorpe, came next into the carnation 
field, and contributed some of the most celebrated varieties of carnations, 
which were sent out from the year 1883 to 1890. Mr. Thorpe commenced his 
work on carnations about the year 1881. Among his most celebrated produc- 
tions were Portia, Rosalind, Miranda, Isabel and Imogene, which were sold 
to Mr. B. K. Bliss in the year 1885. He also originated May Queen, Charles 
Henderson, Maggie Thorpe, all of which were rose-pink varieties ; Sensa- 
tion, a good yellow ; E. G. Hill, a brilliant scarlet ; W. W. Coles, a scarlet, and 
Jas. Y. Murkland, which he describes as the most perfect carnation he had 
ever seen, and which he states was the beginning of the non-bursting race of 
carnations; it was a shy bloomer, but of good color. 

Following close upon Mr. Thorpe's work comes that of Mr. William 
Swayne, of Kennett Square. Pa., who introduced his first varieties, Wm. 
Swayne and L. L. Lamborn, in the spring of 1888. Both of these varieties 
achieved considerable commercial importance, and were largely grown for 
a number of years. 

Contemporaneous with Mr. Thorpe's was the work of Mr. W. P. 
Simmons, who originated Daybreak, Tidal Wave and Silver Spray. Mr. 
Thorpe states that Daybreak was a seedling from a variety named August 
Rolker, which was a seedling raised by himself. All of these varieties, I 
am informed by Mr. Thorpe, were hybridized from the sorts originated 
by him at Queens, Long Island. 

Also coeval with the work of Mr. Thorpe was that of ]\Ir. Sewell 
Fisher, of Framingham, Mass. The latter gentleman commenced his work 
as early as the year 1876, his first seed being obtained from a seed pod from 
Zeller's variety, President Degraw. From this, in 1877, he produced two 
varieties. Sea Foam and Fascination, both of which were introduced by 
Messrs. V. H. Hallock & Son and Mr. Thorpe ; in 1882, Anna Webb ; in 1883, 
Silver Lake, and in 1884. Florence, which was sent out by Mr. Denys Zirn- 
giebel. The variety. ]\Irs. Fisher, which probably attained the most prom- 
inence of any of Mr. Fisher's productions, was raised in 1886. It was sent 
out and introduced to commerce in 1890. Crystal, a pure white, was pro- 
duced in 1889: in 1892, Sebec, a crimson: in 1893, Servia, a white, and 
in 1896, Saxon, a scarlet. Mr. Fisher seems to have followed a system of 
careful hybridizing, as he states that he produced from 300 to 600 seedling 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

plants each year. He has also stated that he grew seedling carnations 
rather as a source of pleasure than profit, although he got some returns for 
his work. 

In 1890, Mr. John McGowan, of Orange, N. J., in connection with Mr. 
H. E. Chitty, of Paterson, N. J., introduced the famous variety, Lizzie 
McGowan, which for a period of ten years was grown to a greater extent 
than any other white carnation. This variety was a cross between Peter 
Henderson and Heintz's White, and was originated by Mr. Carl SchaefTer, 
then gardener for Mr. T. B. Peddie, Llewellyn Park, and subsequently to 
Hon. Samuel Colgate, of Orange, N. J., to which latter place he took the 
variety, and eventually sold the stock to Mr. McGowan. 

In 1876, Joseph Tailby, of Wellesley, Mass., raised the variety which 
was introduced under the name of Grace Wilder. It was the result of a 
cross between La Purite and Boule de Neige, the latter variety being 
known by some as Smith's White. It remained in cultivation for a long 
period of years, and was considered the leading commercial pink carnation. 
It stood against all competitors until the introduction of Mr. Domer's 
William Scott rapidly supplanted it. Mr. Tailby also raised a number of other 
seedlings; among them, Fred. Johnson, Dr. Whitney, Mrs. Priest, and others. 

About the year 1889, Air. Frederick Dorner, of Lafayette, Ind., began 
the growing of hybrid carnations. Mr. Dorner has undoubtedly done for the 
American carnation as much as, if not more than, any other grower of hybrid 
seedlings. He carried on his work thoroughly and persistently. The first re- 
sults he achieved were sold to the E. G. Hill Co., and that firm disseminated 17 
varieties of the seedlings obtained. From 1890 to date, Mr. Dorner and his 
firm have introduced the following list of varieties: In 1893, Mrs. E. 
Reynolds, Mine. Diaz Albertini, Richmond, Blanche, Wm. Scott, Spartan, 
Purdue, Dr. Smart, Western Pride and Wabash ; in 1894, Uncle John, E. A. 
Wood, The Stuart and Goldfinch ; in 1895, Bridesmaid, Meteor and Storm 
King, by Mr. Ward; in 1896, Dazzle; in 1897, Mrs. Duhme and Mrs. George 
M. Bradt, Mary Wood and C. A. Dana, by Mr. Ward ; in 1898, White Cloud 
and Gold Nugget; in 1899, G. H. Crane; in 1900, Morning Glory; in 1901, 
Lorna and Mermaid ; and in 1902, Alba, Stella, Dorothy Whitney and Apollo. 

The variety William Scott became as famous as its ancestor, Grace 
Wilder, and at the present time is probably more largely grown than any 
other pink carnation. 

28 



History of the Development of the Carnation 

Mr. W. R. Shelmire, of Avondale, Pa., also contributed a number of 
valuable varieties, among them Eldorado and Csesar. 

In 1890, Mr. E. G. Hill became interested in the growing of seedling 
carnations, through purchasing a number of seedlings from Mr. Dorner. A 
number of these varieties were introduced ; in fact, the following set was 
sent out : Edna Craig, Fred Dorner, Edwin Lonsdale, Christine, Hoosier, In- 
diana, Creole, Red Cross, San Mateo, Canada, Cherry Lips, Sea Gull and 
Ben Hur. Many of these varieties, which were producing extremely fine 
flowers, were not sufficiently free in bloom to make them a commercial 
success ; consequently, they have passed out of existence. With the stock 
purchased from Mr. Dorner as a basis, Mr. Hill began the raising of seed- 
lings, and in 1896 introduced Triumph, Armazindy, Abundance, together 
with the variety Jubilee, which was purchased from Mr. John Hartje, of 
Indianapolis. In 1897, Flora Hill, which was undoubtedly the best of ]\Ir. 
Hill's productions, and Mrs. McBurney were introduced; in 1898, Painted 
Lady and Psyche, and in 1899, America. 

Mr. Peter Fisher, of Ellis, Mass., quickly sprang into fame through the 
raising, and particularly the selling, of the variety which was named Mrs. 
Thos. W. Lawson, and which was grown in 1895, the variety being the result 
of a cross between Daybreak and Van Leeuwen. This variety was given a 
world-wide reputation by its sale to Mr. Thomas W. Lawson, for the seem- 
ingly fabulous sum of thirty thousand dollars. One-half of this sum is said 
to have gone to Mr. Fisher, and the remaining half to ]Mr. Thomas Galvin, 
the Boston florist and friend of Mr. Lawson, who negotiated the sale. Others 
of Mr. Fisher's later productions are, Enchantress and Governor Wolcott. 

Mr. Richard Witterstsetter, of Sedamsville, Ohio, commenced the hy- 
bridization of carnations in 1890, with Degraw and La Purite as a basis. 
Mr. Witterstsetter's work has evidently been very carefully done. The 
varieties introduced by him are few ; namely, Emma Wocher, light pink ; 
Evelina, white ; Estelle, scarlet ; Enquirer, bright pink, and Adonis. The 
latter, his most brilliant production, was sold to Messrs. E. G. Hill and 
Robert Craig, in the year 1901, for the sum of five thousand dollars. 

The author commenced the growing of hybrid carnations in the year 
1890. The varieties with which he had to work were Wm. Swayne, L. L. 
Lamborn, Portia, Rosalind, Buttercup, Philadelphia ; and, later on, to this 
list was added Lizzie McGowan, also Wm. Scott, Richmond, Elizabeth 
Reynolds and Mme. Diaz Albertini, of the productions of Mr. Frederick 

29 



Histoiy of the Development of the Carnation 

Dorner. The first variety lie introduced to commerce was Ethel, a seedling of 
Portia, crossed with the pollen of L. L. Lamborn ; it was chiefly valuable as a 
summer bloomer. 

In 1898 or 1899, General Gomez, General Alaceo, i\Irs. James Dean and 
John Young were introduced, all of which were largely cultivated for a 
number of years by commercial growers. Next followed Glacier, in 1900, and 
Governor Roosevelt, Golden Beauty and Novelty, which were introduced in 
1901. Viola Allen, Harry Fenn and J. H. Manley were introduced in 1902, 
Airs. Theodore Roosevelt. Governor Bliss and Alpin Glow in 1903. 




Carrvino- the Planta tu the Greenhouse 



30 



CHAPTER II 

The Carnation in America 

THE commercial importance of the carnation as a florists' flower has 
been developed since the introduction of the French or remontant 
varieties into America, which occurred about the year 1852. The 
commencement of the raising of seedhngs by DaiUedouze & Zeller, of Flat- 
bush, Long Island, in 1866, may be stated as the beginning, or as laying the 
foundation of the American carnation, which may be classed as a distinct or 
modified species, the product of acclimatization and hybridization. The 
superiority of the American-bred carnation for the purpose of winter forcing 
is now acknowledged throughout the world and its importance as a florists' 
flower is constantly on the increase. 

No other flower possesses more intrinsic value than the carnation. It has 
become, perhaps, the greatest staple commercial flower in existence, a serious 
rival to the rose, destined to supersede the Queen of Flowers, to some extent, 
in popularity, and to remain in greenhouse culture as long as the love of 
flowers or the use of them exists. The improvement in the quality and per- 
fection of the bloom now grown, and the superior methods of marketing the 
flowers, have brought about a constantly increasing use of the carnation, as 
well as substantial advancements in price. 

The carnation is a flower that awakens the love of almost every person, 
and as the average blooms are sold at much more reasonable prices than 
many other flowers, they come within the reach of a larger class of people 
than do roses and orchids ; consequently, the consumption is greater, and the 
use of the carnation by rich and poor alike is rapidly extending. 

There is no purpose to which flowers can be put for which the car- 
nation is not fitted. It aptly lends itself to almost every scheme of decoration. 
Its delicious, clean, pungent, aromatic fragrance admits it to almost every 
sick room. It is probably one of the most satisfactory and one of the most 
durable vase flowers known. It is unsurpassed for dinner or center-table 
decoration. It is universally employed in the making up of set pieces. It is 
also one of the best flowers for boutonnieres that the florist has at his 
command : and, finally, its wide range of pleasing colors, its lasting qualities. 

31 



The Carnation in America 

its fresh, rich clove fragrance, combine to make it one of the most favored, 
as well as one of the most sought for and profitable of florist's flowers. 




An Artistic Decoration with Carnations 

The amount of glass devoted to carnation culture is increasing each year 
bv the erection of immense establishments, covering in some instances one to 

32 



The Carnation in America 

three acres of ground, for the specific purpose of forcing carnations for the 
winter market, and it may now be safely estimated that between seven and 
eight million square feet of glass are devoted solely to carnation culture in 
America. The number of establishments which may be classed as given up 
principally to carnation growing is probably not less than two thousand. 
These employ between five and six thousand people, who are paid wages 
ranging from thirty-five to fifty dollars per month for ordinary hands and 
growers, to seventy-five to eighty dollars per month for growers sufficiently 
skilled to manage establishments. 

From seven to eight million carnation plants are annually grown, pro- 
ducing upward of one hundred million carnation blooms per annum, cut and 
sold in the various markets of the United States and Canada/^ These flowers 
are estimated as selling at an average of four dollars per hundred, or four 
millions of dollars for the entire annual output. About the year 1890, the re- 
tail prices of carnations ranged from twenty-five to fifty, and, at occasional 
times, seventy-five cents per dozen. At the present time the average retail 
prices in the larger cities of the United States stand at from seventy-five cents 
to five dollars per dozen, and, in rare instances, especially fine blooms are sold 
at as high as eight to twelve dollars per dozen. In some of the factory 
and smaller towns, carnations are still sold as low as thirty-five to fifty 
cents per dozen, but these prices are due to a foolish competition among 
local florists, and cannot be said to have been established by the legitimate 
law of supply and demand. Properly grown carnation flowers should 
command at least fifty cents to one dollar per dozen at retail. 

The largest American carnation establishments are located in the vicin- 
ity of New York and Chicago. Probably more carnation blooms are grown 
and shipped to the New York market than to any other in the United States. 
Several very large, as well as many moderate-sized, establishments, devoted 
exclusively to carnation culture, are located mainly upon the western portion 
of Long Island. New Jersey boasts of a number of large establishments, as 
well as a great number of smaller ones. There are also many establishments 
of varying size located upon the railroads leading from New York to Boston, 
and along the line of the Hudson River and the New York Central Rail- 
road a large area of glass pours its flowers into the New York market. 

Chicago stands next in importance in the area of glass devoted to car- 
nation culture. Enormous establishments are located at Joilet, Hinsdale, and 
in the immediate suburbs of Chicago, while as far south as Richmond and 
Lafayette, Ind., large areas of glass are given up to carnation culture, a 
part of their product being shipped into the Chicago market. But manv of 

34 






t^ 


tfl 


•u 


fe 






I. 


t^ 


^ 
* 








■^ 



The Carnation in America 

the larger establisliments, such as those located at Joilet and Hinsdale, also 
consign a considerable portion of their flowers to the smaller towns in Wis- 
consin and farther west. 

California produces quantities of carnation flowers, but they are mostly 
raised out-of-doors, comparatively few being cultivated under glass. Carna- 
tions are grown as far north as Quebec, and as far south as Florida. Canada 
produces her full quota, large establishments being situated in the vicinity 
of Toronto and London, and the flowers are consumed, to some extent, in 
Montreal. Carnations are also largely grown in Pennsylvania, in the neigh- 




.-1 Cnlitoniia Carnntioii Fit-Id 
E. J. TVniter, Ocean Park, Suiitli Santa Monica, Cal. 



borhood of Pittsburg and Philadelphia ; at one time so many were cultivated 
in Chester County, Pa., that a portion of that country was dubbed the 
"Carnation Belt." 

Boston, Washington, Buffalo, Cleveland, Detroit and Cincinnati all sup- 
port large and important ranges of glass, devoted to carnation culture. Ex- 
tensive establishments also exist near Denver, Milwaukee, St. Paul, and many 
other large American cities, and it may be truly stated that the culture and 
consumption of carnations are spreading steadily over the entire temperate 
America. 

Cultivation of the American carnation is rapidly extending to Europe. 

36 



The Carnation in America 

Large establishments in the vicinity of London are now forcing it in quan- 
tity during the winter months, the blooms being sold at the Covent Garden 
flower market, in London. Belgian and German florists are also under- 
taking its culture upon an extensive scale, and many of the sons of German 
florists now visit the United States to serve apprenticeships in the leading 
carnation establishments, returning in a year or two to their native land to 




The J. D. Thompson C.r ' K.inge, JoUct, III. 

A Western Carnation E~itnhUshnient 



engage in the winter culture of the American carnation. Thus the utility 
of the American race of Dianthus Caryophyllus for winter forcing is being 
imiversally recognized, and within the next generation we may expect to see 
it in general cultivation throughout the horticultural world, wherever climatic 
conditions permit. 



CHAPTER III 

General Greenhouse Culture 
Raising Plants from Seed 

OXIi of the most interesting methods of raising carnation plants is 
from seed. By this means, new varieties, and in some instances a 
practical reproduction of older varieties, with renewed and more 
vigorous constitutions, are produced. In the propagation of plants from 
cuttings comparatively little variation is secured, the entire stock propagated 
being a practical reproduction of the original variety. But in raising plants 
from seed, and particularly from seed taken from carefully cross-fertilized 
blooms, the varieties produced vary to such an extent that the grower can 
scarcely prognosticate the result. Great variations in habit, color, form, 
fragrance, time of blooming, size of flower, quantity of bloom produced and 
vigor of constitution are secured. Practically all of the new varieties that 
come into existence are originated from plants grown from cross-fertilized 
seed. In Chapter XIX. such detailed instructions upon cross fertilization are 
recorded that anyone able to grow a carnation plant may produce new 
varieties. Full instructions as to sowing of seed and treating the young 
carnation plants are also given. 

Propagation from Cuttings 

In growing carnations for cut flowers, the only practical method of pro- 
ducing large quantities of stock is by propagation from cuttings. It is suffi- 
cient to state that the best results will be gained by propagating from plants 
rigidly selected, and showing the desired habits, as well as by selecting wood 
which is in perfect condition when taken. Cuttings taken the latter part of 
January and during the months of February and March, even up to the 15th 
of April, will produce excellent results for winter blooming. Cuttings taken 
in February will give larger plants, which may be lifted earlier, and which 
will come into flower sooner and produce larger crops at Christmas and in the 
fore part of the winter. Throughout my experience, cuttings taken in late 

38 



General Greenhouse Culture 

February and early March have, upon the whole, given rather the best results 
during the entire season; however, some of the finest crops of carnations I 
have grown were from cuttings taken during the month of April. These 
were taken from April i to 15; were potted up in two-inch pots about the 
1st to the loth of May ; set in the open ground from the ist to the loth of 
June, and lifted and planted on the benches during the month of September. 
While the crop of flowers from such cuttings was not quite as abundant as 
that from the earlier stock, the stems were stronger and longer, and the 
flowers larger and of better substance. Each grower will have to determine 
from actual experience the best time to take his cuttings. With varieties 
which are rampant growers, and which do not lift well, we have not secured 
as good results with very early cuttings as with those taken the latter part 
of March up to the middle of April. If a carnation plant is too large it does 
not lift as well, as it suffers more severely ; and the quantity, as well as the 
quality, of the flowers is somewhat impaired ; while with the late blooming 
varieties it is necessary to take earlier cuttings in order to secure the crop 
at the proper time. 

I have formed the opinion that a carnation plant lifted with the least 
possible check, and kept in vigorous growth, will produce the best results, 
such as length and stiffness of stems, size of bloom, substance of flowers and 
keeping qualities. I believe that every check to a carnation plant is a detri- 
ment. We all know that in the growing of specimen chrysanthemum blooms 
any serious check impairs the quality of the flower, and I have never seen 
any tangible evidence, or reason, why this should not also be true with 
the carnation. 

Potting Young Carnation Stock 

The potting of young carnation plants from the cutting bench is one of 
the most important operations, and should only be done with care and judg- 
ment by experienced men. Too many young carnation plants are potted 
deeply; that is, the root crown is buried from three-quarters to an inch be- 
neath the surface of the soil. This is wrong. The root crown should not be 
more than a quarter of an inch beneath the surface of the soil. In the case 
of deeply-potted cuttings, many of them are apt to die off, especially if the 
plant should happen to be over-watered. Great care should be taken in 
watering young stock. The young plants should not be allowed to become 
too dry, nor should they be kept constantly soaked, or so heavily watered as to 
compact the soil and render it sour. They should be shifted as soon as 
they have made their growth, and should not be allowed to become pot- 

39 



General Greenhouse Culture 

bound. A camaliun plant turnt-d out of a pot in a healthy, vigorous grow- 
ing condition is, for the purpose of growing on for forcing, worth double 
one that is pot-ljound nr growing in a sour and sodden soil. I will venture 
the statement that a well-grown carnation plant suitable for forcing should 
never have been subjectrd to a serious check in its growth if it is expected to 
produce the l.iest results. 

Planting Carnations in the Field 

The usual nu'lhoil (if treating carnations in the summer time is to plant 
them in the field. There are advocates of different methods of planting. 
One recommends planting in beds, in rows eighteen inches apart, the plants 
a foot or so apart in the row, cultivation being by wheel or scuffle hoe and 
the ordinary hoeing. Another recommends field culture, so-called ; that is, 
planting in rows from twn to three feet apart, and the plants ten to twelve 
inches apart in the row, using a horse hoe for cultivation, supplemented with 
hand hoeing. \Vhcre the grower has unlimited ground, I prefer the field 
cultivation : but where the ground for growing plants is restricted, about as 
good results are secured from ])lanting in beds. 

In soils producing a rank, strong growth, the plants should be set rather 
farther apart than in soils where the growth is moderate. In rich soils, a 
good rule is to have the niws twenty inches apart, and the plants twelve 
to fourteen inches apart in the row. Any standard hand-wheel hoe that stirs 
the soil thoroughly, liut not deeply, may be used in cultivating between the 
rows. 

Preparing Field Soils 

(Ji the Several nielliods in vogue of ]ire])aring the soil for field culture, 
nothing is more practicalile nor better than thoroughlv manuring with well- 
rotted stable manure, ])loughing it in and harrowing thoroughlv. (See 
chapter on preparation of soils for field culture. ) 

Cutting Back or Stopping 

During the summer time. Iihjouiing shoots should be cut back at least as 
often as every two weeks. The best results, and the most even and con- 
tinuous blooming in winter, are obtained by going over the plants once each 
week and cutting back only those shoots that are pushing well forward into 
bud. Varieties that are inclined to come into bud late, such as Prosperity and 
others of like character, should not be topped after the ist to the middle 
of July. I'lUt very early blooming varieties, such as Alpine Glow, William 



General Greenhouse Culture 

Scott, Harry Fenn and Airs. Thomas W. Lawson, may be topped as late as 
the 1st of September. 

Preparation of Soil for Greenhouse Culture 
The English Method 

The better soil we afford our carnations the better will be the result. 
The old English method of paring ofif sods from an old pasture field and 
piling them up in alternate layers of sods and manure, in the proportion of 
about one-fifth manure to four-fifths sod, cannot be very well improved upon ; 
but it is an expensive method. ;\nd in the large American establishments is not 
very often practiced. 

The Field Method— With the Plough 
A preparation of the soil, almost as good as the foregoing, is to spread 
the manure evenly upon the sod ground early in September, and plough it 
under, running the plough about five inches deep, following that by break- 
ing up the soil thoroughly with the disk harrow. Another light coat of manure 
may be spread on the ploughed ground late in November, and turned under, 
the ground being left rough and in ridges, so that it will get a thorough 
freezing. In the spring the ground should be ploughed as early as possible, 
and again two or three times, finally throwing the soil together in long 
ridges, so that when removing it from the field to the benches, carts may be 
driven in the alley-ways between the ridges, and the soil will not be tramped 
upon nor compacted b}' driving over it. 

Fillink Benches 

In filling the benches, care should be taken to get the soil evenly firmed 
throughout the bench. The best manner of doing this is for a man with a 
shovel to turn over all of the soil as it is thrown upon the bench, and to care- 
fully pack it so that the entire mass will be of an equal degree of density. If 
the benches are filled evenly and the soil is of uniform texture and density, 
watering the carnation plants is much more simple, and can be more effect- 
ively done than where the bench is improperly filled. Light loams and sandy 
soils are benefited by tramping, or compacting, the bench after filling. I)ut 
such is not the case with heavy, stifl-' clay soils. 

Benching Carnations 

The proper time for lifting and benching w-ill vary in different locali- 
ties according to climatic conditions. Where the carnation plant attains 
an early matured growth, and where the temperature conditions are moderate. 



General Greenhouse Culture 

lifting may begin immediately after the 5th of July. In other localities 
where the plants make the most of their growth in the later summer months, 
and are subject to extreme hot spells during July, August and September, 
lifting may be deferred until well into the latter month. 

Early versus Late Lifting 

There is quite a variation of opinion between the advocates of early lift- 
ing and those of late lifting. Each individual grower must decide, by prac- 




House of Carnation Governor Roosevelt Just planted — latter part of Auffust 

tical experience, the best date for him to lift and plant his carnations. In our 
experience the most satisfactory average results have been obtained from 
plants lifted prior to the 20th of August ; and many of the later blooming 



General Greenhouse Culture 

kinds are lifted as early as the loth to the 15th of July. We have, however, 
secured magnificent crops from many varieties of carnations by lifting as late 
as the 1st of October. Late lifted plants are apt to give a large crop of com- 
paratively short-stemmed flowers, while in the case of the earlier lifted stock, 
though not producing as abundantly, the blooms will be of better quality, the 
stems being longer and stronger, and the product will bring a sufficiently 
advanced price to practically make up the difference in the yield. 

Digging Plants from Field 

In lifting plants great care should be exercised in digging and carrying 
them into the greenhouses. The digging should be done by careful men, 
and all of the root possible taken in with the plant. As soon as plants 
are dug they should be placed in trays and carried at once into the green- 
houses, or into a shed where they can be shaded and kept as cool as pos- 
sible, and should never be allowed to lie around in the sun to become 
dried out and wilted, as such treatment is decidedly detrimental. In 
some soils a slight ball of earth may be taken up with the roots. In hard, 
stiff clay soils that are inclined to bake, it is frequently essential to take in a 
considerable ball of earth ; otherwise a large portion of the root system is 
lost. In our soil at Queens, a light ball of earth, about four to four and a half 
inches in diameter, filled with fibrous roots, is generally secured with plants 
that are planted in the field from pots. But where planted from flats, or in the 
case of cuttings planted direct from the sand to the field, it is not possible 
to get such balls of earth, the soil shaking ofif the roots entirely without doing 
material damage. 

Selection of Stock in Digging 

In digging plants they should be carefully selected ; that is, the digger 
should go over the field and select those of even size. A second selection 
should also be made, and even a third. In case the plants are small, they 
may be doubled up in order to fill the spaces. The object of this selection is 
to get a more even stand of growth and bloom upon the benches. 

Planting on Benches 

Planting upon the bench is one of the most important of all the opera- 
tions connected with carnation growing. If it is not properly done, a great 
variation and diminution of the crop may be expected. Care should be 
taken not to plant too deeply. The plant should stand no deeper in the soil 
upon the bench than it does in the field. The soil should be thoroughly well 

43 



General Greenhouse Culture 

firmed around the roots, so that the plant will remain erect after setting. In 
light soils, the best planters use their fists for firming, pounding the earth 
lightly around the neck of the plant, and especially around the roots. A 
broad, shallow hole should be made, and the roots of the plant spread 
out so that they occupy about the same relative position to the top as was 
occupied when growing in the field. 

Watering the Bench After Planting 

After planting comes another most important operation — that of water- 
ing. Some writers have recommended soaking the bench thoroughly in order 
to set the soil, putting the water on so heavily that it will run through the 
bottom of the bench. I have found this method to be seriously objectionable, 
and many plants have been lost by stem rot whenever it was practiced. When 
planting, I much prefer to depend on firming the soil with the hand and fist 
to firming it by soaking with water. We have found that the best results have 
been secured when a light watering was given immediately after planting in. 
As soon as the soil has properly assimilated and distributed this water, an- 
other light watering is aft'orded, which is followed up during the daytime until 
the bench is nicely moistened throughout ; but the soil is not sodden, nor has 
it been so compacted by a sudden drenching of water as to render it muddy 
and impervious to ;eration. 

Shading 

Previous to planting, the greenhouses should be shaded sufficiently to 
modify the action of the sun to such an extent as to prevent the wilting of the 
plants. This shading should not be too dense, as if the plants are shaded too 
much they will be considerably softened and will withstand the sun much less 
efifectively when the shading is removed. We have practiced using a shade 
that will wash <jft' during rain storms and leave the houses light and clean 
during cloudy weather. Fire-clay, or any ordinar\- clean clay, has been em- 
ployed with great success. It can lie easily applied at the end of cloudy 
weather by spraying it upon the glass witli a syringe, and thus the shading 
may be renewed and kept on until the plants have become established, when 
it should be allowed to wear off gradually. There should be no shade 
upon the houses in the early part of ( )ctobcr, but the glass should be 
thoroughly clean and bright, so that the jilants will have all the light possible 
during the short days of the fall and winter. After planting, when the 
bench soil has liecome nicely moist throughout, water should be withheld, 
a slight spraying only being necessary until root action has set in and the 



General Greenhouse Culture 

foliage straightens up and becomes plump. This is an indication that the 
plants have taken hold of the soil and are ready to grow. Care must be 
taken to keep the plants properly moist as soon as they have commenced 
growth, for more depends upon watering the benches and keeping the 
soil in proper condition during the fall and early winter months than upon 
almost any other feature of carnation growing. If fancy flowers are to be 
grown, care must he used that the benches shall not dry out to such an ex- 




Ciirnntion (Governor Roosevelt 
The s;iine house as shmvn on page 42, in Xoveniher l'oUo\Ying, just euining into hlootn 

tent as to cause the plants to wilt. Wilting hardens the plant, shortens the 
stem and tends to reduce the size of the flower ; and while such a check will 
probably produce a larger crop of flowers at a given period, the quality will 
be inferior, as the blooms will usually be smaller and the stems shorter. On 
the other hand, if the soil is kept too wet. it will in time become sour and 

45 



General Greenhouse Culture 

sodden, Uie feeding roots of the plant will be destroyed, and growth will be 
practically suspended until such time as the plant may recover. 

Cultivation of Soil in Benches 

After the plants have become well established, a shallow cultivation of 
the soil will be beneficial. This cultivation should not be so deep as to 
materially injure the feeding roots. All weeds should be removed, and if 
a green mold forms upon the surface of the soil it should be scraped of? 




Bench of Carnation Governor Roosevelt, illustrating combination 
method of Carnation Supports 

or removed by the application of some such agent as soot or a light dressing 
of sheep manure. 

Staking and Tying 

The staking and tying up of the carnation plants should be begim as 
soon as the blooming stems have commenced to push up, and the plant should 
be brought under control before it has started to run up its flowering shoots 
to any extent. This must be attended to promptly if straight, stiiif stems are 
to be secured, otherwise the plant will grow ill-shapen, the stems will become 

46 



General Greenhouse Culture 

crooked, and the selling value of the flowers be thereby impaired. The differ- 
ent systems of staking and tying carnation plants are described in Chapter X. 

Feeding Benched Plants 

In from six to eight weeks, the carnation plants will have filled the 
benches entirely with roots and have commenced to exhaust, to some ex- 
tent, the shallow soil in which they are growing. At this time, light feeding 
in the way of applications of manure water or light mulches may be given. 
It is important that such feedings should be afforded lightly and frequently 
rather than in heavy doses. The food should be introduced into the soil just 
about as fast as the plants need it for use. If given in small quantities at 
regular periods, the carnation roots will be able to handle all of the available 
chemical ingredients, and this will tend to keep the soil fresh and sweet ; 
whereas, if a surplus of food over and above the requirements of the plant 
is introduced into the soil, an acid condition will likely be produced, in which 
case all plant food must be withheld, and, probably, a good watering of lime 
water, or a dressing of air-slacked lime, be used to correct the acidity. It 
has been our practice during the month of October to treat the surface soil of 
the benches with a moderate dressing of pulverized sheep manure. This is 
frequently mixed with Scotch soot, the proportion being half and half, and 
applied so as to color the surface of the soil. This serves the purpose of 
fertilization as well as preventing the growth of the green scum or surface 
mold. 

Stopping or Topping 

As soon as the flowering shoots lengthen, those of a weak, spindling 
character should be topped, for the purpose of bringing the first crop of 
flowers with vigorous, long stems. Stopping the flowering shoots after plant- 
ing has a tendency to throw the crop later into the winter months, and it may 
be practiced where it is desirable to sacrifice the early blooms in order to 
secure heavier crops at Christmas or during the winter months, when 
flowers bring a higher price. 

It is of great importance to study the habits of growth of different 
varieties of carnations in order that each variety may be topped at the proper 
time. Some carnations will not give crops of bloom until late midwinter or 
the ensuing spring if topped after the 1st of August ; others can be topped as 
late as the middle of September and brought into full crop during the holidays. 

47 



General ( jreenhouse Culture 
Disbudding 

Where fancy flowers are aimed at, disbudding is imperative, and it is 
necessary to do the worlc early, otherwise the size of the bloom and the strength 
of the stem will be reduced and the object of disbudding defeated. The 
lateral buds should be removed as soon as this can be done without injuring 
the stem or the terminal bud. In varieties that are inclined to throw their 
blooms late, the period of flowering may be hastened by removing the side 
growths, or pips, from the blooming stems. 

Insects and Fumigation 

Insects should never be seen in the greenhouse. Preventive measures 
should be put into force promptly and practiced constantly. For aphis, com- 
monly called green fly, nothing is better than fumigating with tobacco early 
in the season. This should be done at least once a week, selecting cool 
nights for the operation. Later on, when the plants are in bloom, fumigating 
v/ith tobacco is objectionable, as it impairs the odor of the flowers. During 
the winter time, when the plants are in full bloom, we have used the various 
preparations of tobacco extract to advantage. These preparations are mixed 
to the consistency of thin paint by the addition of water, and with them the 
heating pipes are painted once a week, and sometimes twice. Where the 
green fly has been eradicated by thorough fumigation, painting of the heating 
pipes with tobacco extract is generally sufficient to keep the pest in check. 
Thrips succumb to repeated and persistent fumigation with tobacco stems. 
These insects are far more persistent than green fly, much more difficult to 
eradicate, and their depredations are much more serious, as they usually 
attack the buds and destroy the flowers before they open. 

Diseases 

The various fungi infesting carnations will not prevail to any extent 
if the plants are kept in a clean, healthy, growing condition. Plants 
improperly cared for are always sources of disease. Any neglect, such as 
inattention to watering and ventilation, too violent changes of temperature, 
or keeping the foliage of the plants wet at night, especially if such over 
watering or wetting of the foliage is followed by sudden falls of temper- 
ature, will have a tendency to develop fungus. It may be safely stated that 
such improper treatment, and a close, dank atmosphere, are the principal 
causes of fungous diseases in carnations. 



48 




VIOLA ALLEN GLORIOSUM A SCARLHT 

White, Variegated Pink Yell.iwSelf FLAKHIl FANCY 



PLATE 



SEEDLING CARNATIONS (WARD) 



CHAPTER IV 

Soils 

THE character of the soil plays a most important part in the successful 
cultivation of any species of plant. Unless the soil is suited to the 
needs and constitutional characteristics of a plant, success in the 
cultivation of such plant, if attained at all, will be but indifferent. It, 
therefore, becomes essential to study well the soil where it is proposed to 
grow carnations, and to select one well suited to the needs of these plants. 
This will not only insure a greater measure of success, but of economy as 
well, for the deficiencies in soils must be made up by artificial manipulation, 
and the addition of such constituents as may be lacking. 

Carnations succeed well in a great variety of soils of varying textures, 
demonstrating that a wide divergence of mechanical texture, or density 
(heaviness or lightness) may furnish good results. Nevertheless, there 
are certain textures of soil that possess material advantages over others. 
Extremely light, sandy soils that suffer in drouglits, as well as heavy, stiff, 
cold soils that bake and become hardened, should in general be avoided. 
Good carnations may be grown on such soils, but success will be uncertain 
and at an additional cost of care and attention. 

The best carnation soil is a good, strong, semi-sandy loam, with con- 
siderable body, one that will retain moisture well and at the same time is not 
so dense and compact as to become sour and sodden. A well-drained location 
should be selected, and soils from situations where water stands on the 
surface for any length of time should be avoided, unless such soils can be com- 
posted and exposed to aeration and freezing for some time before thev are 
used. 

In selecting soils for field culture, wherever possible, one well furnished 
with an abundance of fibrous material should be chosen. An old sod lot 
that has been pastured by cows or sheep makes an ideal location. In the 
preparation of tjuch a field, a moderate coating of stable manure should be 
evenly spread over the field in August or early September. The land should 
then be ploughed at least ten inches deep, ploughing to be followed by a 
thorough cultivation with the disk harrow. During the latter part of October 

4 49 



Soils 

it should be again ploughed and allowed to remain rough over winter, in order 
that frost may thoroughly penetrate all portions of the soil. Where the soil 
is not naturally quite fertile, an additional coating of manure may be applied 
and turned under with advantage as late in November as the ground can be 
properly ploughed. This treatment insures an abundance of fertilizing ma- 
terial in varying stages of decomposition and assimilation, thus placing 
within reach of the plant sufficient digestible plant food upon which to build 
its growth and constitution, and renders possible the storing up of the neces- 
sary energy to enable the carnation to respond to the trying forcing which 
follows during the fall and winter months. 

The following spring, the field should be ploughed and harrowed as soon 
as the ground is in a fit condition, then allowed to stand until planting time, 
when it should be again ploughed and thoroughly harrowed, finishing up with 
the Acme harrow, just ahead of the planting gang, so that planting may 
always be done in freshly-prepared soil. To those who might object to so 
much ploughing and harrowing, it may be said that such treatment insures 
an ideal mechanical condition and a thorough and complete incorporation 
of the fertilizing materials and vegetable fiber with the soil. 

The location and exposure of the carnation field are of some importance. 
A level piece of land that will not wash in rain storms should be selected. 
Soils that can be sub-irrigated, in the same manner as the celery fields in 
Kalamazoo and other parts of Michigan are irrigated, should make good 
carnation fields. Any location where the water will collect in pools and 
stand upon the surface during heavy rain storms should be avoided. A 
southerly or southeasterly exposure is to be preferred, as in such a position 
the sun strikes the plants early in the morning, drying of¥ the dew. South- 
westerly, as well as westerly and northwesterly exposures are not as good be- 
cause in the hot dry days of July and August the plants will suffer there. If 
an exposure protected from heavy winds and gales can, be secured, so much 
the better, as high winds cause much injury by whipping the plants about, 
breaking off branches and splitting the main stem at the collar. 

Preparation of Soils for Bench Culture 

Bench soil should be materially ridier than that in the carnation field, and 
the field soil should be also sensibly richer than the one used for potting up 
the young plants. Care should be taken that the field soil should not be 
made richer than that used upon benches, as in such cases the plant will 
receive a check when removed from the richer to the poorer soil. 

Of the methods in vogue for preparing bench soils. T will repeat that the 



Soils 

English method of stacking sods and manure and turning them over fre- 
quently can scarcely be improved upon so far as practical results are concerned, 
providing the work is properly done. But it is an expensive method, and 
on account of the larger amount of manual labor involved, the proper treat- 
ment of such soil heaps is apt to be neglected, in which case the center of the 
heaps will become sour and the value of the soil lessened. There are advo- 
cates of the system of piling sods, as well as the preparation in the field by 
ploughing under the sod and harrowing in the manure. It is important to 
have the soil used for bench culture well enriched with thoroughly decom- 
posed manure some time before putting the soil on the benches. In the 
preparation of compost heaps, an old sod lot will furnish the best material. 
The sod may be pared off to the depth of four to five inches and built up in 
layers on a heap, in the proportion of a layer of soil four inches in thick- 
ness to a layer of manure one inch in thickness, building up the heap layer 
upon layer until it is about the height of a man's shoulder. This should be 
done in the early fall, previous to the season when the soil is to be used. A 
good plan is to make up these heaps during the months of September and 
October, allowing them to stand well into December, when they should be 
turned over in a thorough manner and the manure well incorporated with the 
soil. The heap should be turned once or twice during the winter, and again 
the first thing in the spring, with an additional turning before the time for 
filling the benches is at hand. In the preparation of such soils, lime and salt 
may be used to advantage. Lime may be applied to all such composts where 
the basic soil is deficient in that material. It is sometimes employed in the 
air-slacked state and mixed with the compost at the last turning over in the 
fall. In soils deficient in lime, a bushel of the latter to thirty or forty bushels 
of soil may be used, and five to six pounds of cornmon salt to the same 
quantity of soil may be also added. Hardwood ashes can likewise be used in 
the preparation of such compost heaps, but I have failed to see much material 
benefit from the employment of such ashes. Where the soils are inclined to be 
too heavy, hardwood ashes will tend to produce a good mechanical condition. 
The chief value of hardwood ashes seems to be in the amount of potash they 
contain, but it is usually more expensive to purchase potash in the form of 
hardwood ashes than it is to buy it as sulphate or muriate of potash. Soils 
containing a large quantity of vegetable fiber, such as sod roots, are vastly 
superior for carnation culture to those which have been cultivated so long 
as to exhaust the vegetable fiber, and for this reason it has been our practice 
to seed down a certain area of land each year to be kept under sod until 
needed. This is done for the purpose of supplying the bench soils with an 



Soils 



abundance of vegetable fiber, as well as to render available for the purpose 
of field culture an abundant area well supplied with vegetable fiber. Where 
no sod lot or pasture lands are available, the only alternative is to apply a 
heavy coating of coarse, well-rotted manure to the field and plough under, 
ploughing several times as before described. Many growers have no other 
soil than this, and accomplish very good results. But wherever sods or 
pasture lots are to be had, they are to be preferred. 

Preparation of Bench Soils in the Field 

About the latter part of August, select a piece of ground of sufficient 
size to furnish all the sod required when the land is ploughed to the depth of 
six inches. Give this ground a covering of well-rotted stable manure, putting 
on sufficient to make an even coating of an inch to an inch and a half in 
thickness. This should be spread evenly, the ground ploughed to a depth 
of six inches and allowed to remain undisturbed until about the middle of 
October ; it should then be ploughed again and thoroughly broken up with 
a disk harrow. A third ploughing should be done late in November, just 
before the land freezes up, leaving the ground rough, so that frost will more 
easily penetrate all the soil proposed to be removed to the benches. This 
thorough freezing has a tendency to kill all insects and larvae which might 
otherwise exist through the winter and be taken into the greenhouses the fol- 
lowing spring. In the spring the ground should be ploughed as early as 
possible ; that is, as soon as the frost is out and the soil sufficiently dried to 
work easily, and this ploughing should be repeated two or three times, at 
interval of three or four weeks, finally throwing the soil together in long 
ridges with alley-ways between, so that when removing the soil from the 
field to the greenhouses, the carts may he driven in the alleys, between 
the ridges, and the soil will not be tramped on or compacted by driving 
over it. 

Where carnations are grown in the same field year after year, the soil 
will eventually become exhausted ; it is also liable to become infested with the 
various fungi and insect enemies of the carnation. A frequent change of 
location is, therefore, imperative in order to avoid the various fungous dis- 
eases that infect the roots as well as the plants. It is also important to 
practice a system of rotating crops upon locations where carnations are grown. 
Our experience has taught us to avoid planting such crops as beets of anv 
kind, potatoes, or other root crops, the roots of which are infected with 
various fungi. The stem rot fungus which causes so much damage to car- 
nations also attacks the beet, producing what is known as the beet scab, and 

52 



Soils 

where beets are grown as a crop preceding carnations, the latter are hable 
to suffer from the stem rot. 

Some growers advocate the practice of using carnation soils on the 
benches for two years. We have tried this to a Hmited extent, but the re- 
suhs have not been favorable. It may be that sterilization of soils, as de- 
scribed in this chapter, with the addition of vegetable fiber to old bench soils, 
will make it possible to utilize soils two or more years in succession ; in fact, 
recent experiments in sterilizing old bench soil and using it a second year 
indicate that it can be done to advantage. 

In the preparation of soils for either field or bench culture, commercial 
fertilizers may be used in place of stable manure, but where such fertilizers 
are employed it is important that the mechanical condition of the soil be 
properly cared for by the addition of vegetable fiber. Commercial fertilizers 
may also be scattered in the drills where the young carnations are to be 
planted. Our practice has been to apply at the rate of 200 pounds of fertilizer 
to the acre ; that is, where carnations are planted in rows twenty-four inches 
apart. This is sown with a fertilizer machine immediately before the carna- 
tions are planted. The machine used is one that thoroughly mixes the fer- 
tilizer as it is sown with the soil in the drill. Care must be taken that the 
fertilizer is spread evenly ; otherwise, some plants may suffer by getting too 
large a quantity. 

Composition of Potting Soil for Young Plants 

The soil in which to pot carnation cuttings taken from the sand bench 
should contain very little fertilizer. One of the best compositions we have 
found consists of sod which has been pared off about four to five inches in 
thickness and composted thoroughly without any manure. When the sod is 
thoroughly decomposed, it should be run through a very coarse sieve. The 
Florists' Supply Company's Sod Crusher answers the purpose very well. 

For the second potting, similar decomposed sod can be used, to which has 
been added a small quantity of pulverized sheep dung, or any thoroughly well- 
rotted manure. When shifting young carnation plants, five-sixths sod and 
one-sixth very old and well-decomposed manure is an excellent soil to use. 
If the soil from which the sod is taken is of a clayey nature, the addition of 
one-tenth to one-sixth, in bulk, of coarse sand will be found beneficial. In 
preparing soil for carnations to lie flowered in pots, a compost made of three- 
fifths sod, one-fifth or even more of thoroughly well-rotted manure, one- 
tenth leaf mold and one-tenth coarse sand, will give excellent results. The 
quantity of sand and leaf mold should be increased or decreased according 

33 



Soils 

to the friability of the soil ujjon which the sod has grown : and where the 
basic soil is a sandy loam, the leaf mold and sand may be omitted. 

Upward of seventy years ago, carnations were extensively grown in Eng- 
land for exhibition purposes. The different English growers brought to a 
state of great perfection the variety of carnation which they then grew. 
Flowers from three to four inches in diameter, upon stems thirty to forty- 
five inches in length, were grown and exhibited. ( Sec quotations from Don 
and Hogg, Chapter i.) 

Thomas Hogg, the great carnation grower of that date, gives the fol- 
lowing formula for the preparation of soil in which to grow carnations : 

"Take three barrows of loam, one and a half harrows of garden mold, ten barrows 
of horse dung, one barrow of coarse sand. Let these be mixed and thrown together 
in a heap and turned two or three times in the winter, particularly in frosty weather, 
that it may be well incorporated. On a dry day towards the end of November take 
a barrow of fresh lime, which as soon as slack strew over while hot in turning the heap. 
This accelerates the rotting of the fibrous particles of the loam, lightens the soil and 
destroys the grub worms and slugs. If there be much rain during the winter so that 
the strength of the compost is reduced and the salt washed from it, take about seven 
pounds of damaged salt and add to the compost heap, either dissolved in water or 
strewed on the heap by hand. The addition of the salt will be attended with the most 
beneficial result upon the future health and vigor of the plants. This compost should 
be protected from washing rains and should be allowed to lie at least six months before 
it is used. For flowers that are apt to sport in color, and especially for the yellow 
picotees, the strength of the compost should be lowered, using three barrows of sound 
staple loam, two barrows of old rotten cow dung, one barrow of horse dung, one-half a 
barrow of sand and one-half a barrow of lime rubbish, and prepare and incorporate well 
as above described." 

Maddock, another celebrated English carnation grower, prepared his 
compost as follows : 

"One-half in bulk of rotten horse dung one year old; one-third fresh sound loam; 
one-sixth coarse sea or river sand. j\li.x these ingredients together in autumn, laying 
in a heap about three feet thick, turning three or four times during the winter, especially 
in frosty weather, when it should be laid out sufficiently thin that the whole mass may 
he thoroughly frozen. This will be fit for use in the following spring. The earth and 
sand maj' be added to it in March, and the whole should then be well mixed. Where 
the air is pure, experience has pointed out the propriety of using less dung and more 
loam ; therefore, the quantity of sand, loam and dung should be in this case reversed," 

From these descriptions of the soils used by the English growers of 
seventy years ago, the reader will gather the inference that the carnation is 
about as gross a feeder as any plant that we have. I mention this fact par- 
ticularly, as some years ago many carnation growers throughout the United 

54 



Soils 

States criticised severely tlie introducers of new varieties, "because they grew 
their carnations in very rich soil." Some writers announced that carnations 
would not stand heavy fertilization ; that the addition of large quantities of 
fertilizing material was detrimental. There is, however, one point to be noted 
in the preparation of these composts, and that is, the difference between the 
climates of England and America. Maddock states that where the air is 
pure and clear less fertilizing materials are required, and recommends a re- 
duction in the quantity of manure. This would indicate that carnation com- 
posts for use in the United States should not be as rich as those made by the 
English growers of seventy years ago. Another point in the preparation of 
the English composts that should be noted is, the comparatively large quan- 
tity of lime employed in the constitution of these composts, which probably 
performed the office of neutralizing the acidity of the soil that the use of 
such large quantities of manure would create. 

Sterilizin,!.; Soils 

Of late years considerable e.xperimental work has been done in the steril- 
ization of soils with heat, for the purpose of destroying grubs and worms, 
insects and insects' eggs, as well as the seeds of noxious weeds ; also the 
spores of the various fungi that prey upon the carnation plant. Very ben- 
eficial results are claimed to be secured by such sterilization, some growers 
stating that not only freedom from noxious insects, weeds and fungi is ob- 
tained, but the plants make a better growth and produce a more vigorous, 
continuous crop of flowers, of better quality. This I have not as yet proved, 
but have practiced sterilization to some extent with, apparently, substantial 
beneficial results. 

The most approved method of soil sterilization is by steam. There are 
a luiniher of apparatus used for this purpose, the principle of all of them 
being the filling of the soil with superheated steam, raising the temperature 
to 190 to 212 degrees, which is sufficient to destroy all animal life in the 
soil as well as all fungi and most seeds. 

The following method of sterilization has been practiced with con- 
siderable success, and can be installed at comparatively little expense by 
growers who heat their houses with steam : Take one-inch pipe of even 
lengths — say, sixteen, eighteen or twenty feet ; drill holes through this 
pipe at a distance of eight inches apart throughout its entire length, 
using a drill about three-eighths of an inch in diameter. Close up 
one end of each piece of pipe with a cap, through which has 
been drilled two similar holes : take five two-inch bv one-inch 



Soils 

crosses and a two-inch tee, connecting these with nipples forming a header 
which shall be about four inches shorter than the width of the bench in which 
the soil is to be sterilized ; screw the one-inch pipes into this header firmly, 
leaving them so that the openings of the drill holes will stand at the sides of 
the pipe and not up and down. The object of this is to force the steam later- 
ally through the soil, and not upward. If the hole stands upward the 
pressure of steam will drive an opening straight through the soil to the sur- 
face, and the steam will escape through this aperture without penetrating the 
soil. The accompanying drawings will show better how the header is made 
than can be conveyed i)y a description. When this apparatus is completed and 




Hcndcr 

placed in the bench, it should be connected with the steam main by a two- 
inch pipe. A right and left coupling, or a union, may be used to connect 
with the steam pipes. When finished, this will make an apparatus that will 
sterilize the soil in thirty to forty feet of bench, according to the lengths 
of one-inch pipe used. Place the apparatus in the bottom of the bench, and 
fill the remainder of the bench with soil, so that the entire machine is fully 
covered to a depth of six to seven inches, extending ten to twelve inches be- 
yond the ends of the pipes. Now cover the surface of this soil with old gunny 
sacks, or pieces of burlap, horse blankets, or any old cloth that may be at 
hand. A pressure of fifty pounds of steam should be carried upon the boiler 
at the time of injecting the steam into the soil. Open the valves gradually, 
and allow the steam to run into the sterilizing machine, lightly at first, increas- 
ing the pressure so that the entire force of steam will be turned into the soil 
within one minute from the time the valve is opened. Let this steam blow 
into the soil for twenty to thirty minutes, after which time it may be turned 
off and the sterilizing pipes taken out, although these may be allowed to re- 
main some considerable time if desired. If the boiler is of sufficient capacity 
to keep up the steam pressure of ten, fifteen or twenty pounds, it will raise 
the temperature in the soil to about 205 degrees. This is sufficient to kill 
all of the bugs, earth worms, wire worms and other insects which infest 
the soil, and to destroy almost all weed seeds and spores of fungi. 



Soils 

After this treatment the soil will be too damp for working, and should 
be allowed to stand two or three days before planting is begun. The sterilizer 
may be removed by means of wires fastened around the header and at the 
farther ends of each one of the lateral pipes. It may be pulled straight up 
out of the soil and carried to another portion of the bench and the operation 
repeated. 

I am somewhat of the opinion that this steaming may lie beneficial in the 




Sol! Sterilizer in Operation 

way of disintegrating the chemical constituents of the soil necessary to plant 
growth, rendering soluble a greater percentage than would be the case if 
the soil were not sterilized, but so far as my personal experience goes, I 
have not yet proven this to be the case. It is certain that the killing of all 
insect life and the destruction of the seeds of all weeds and spores of fungi 
in the soil are of sufficient benefit to pay the cost of sterilization, providing the 
soil is not damaged nor its usefulness impaired by the high heating. It is 

58 



Soils 

well known that where soil is baked over a fire, or exposed to great heat, it 
becomes to a certain extent dead, and not as useful for plant growth as virgin 
soil. It has been claimed by some that exposing the soils to high temperature 
destroys the nitrifying bacteria which are said to be necessary to plant growth. 
It is possible that this may be true where temperatures are carried too high or 
the soil remains su[ierheated for too long a period. If the temperature is 




Soil Sterilizer in operation — Sterilizing soil on tlie bench 



raised not higher than 195 to 212 degrees, and if the steam is not carried 
in the soil for more than twenty to thirty minutes, it may be possible that 
the beneficial bacteria will not be destroyed ; whereas, if this temperature 
should be carried for a number of hours these bacteria might suffer. Possibly 
a perceptible loss of nitrogen may occur from evaporation where a high degree 
of heat is maintained for an extended period. 



Soils 

As soon as dry enough, the soil should be turned over and thoroughly 
shaken out. The second or third day after the soil has been sterilized it 
should again be turned over and thoroughly shaken, in order to break up any 
lumps that may have been formed in the process of steaming. It should 
then stand from one to two days, or until it contains only the proper degree of 
moisture necessary for the plant to begin growth. The treatment after this 
will be no different from that given to unsterilized soil. 

Thomas Hogg, in ending his treatise upon the carnation, pays tribute to 
the necessity for good culture and rich, well-prepared soil, in the following: 

"Notice Extraordinary. 

"Nun Semper idem floribus est honos vernis. — Horace. 

"To the ladies and gentlenu'ii who take pleasure in the flower garden, this officious 
intimation is hereby given, in the name and in the behalf of all the florists in Great 
Britain : 

"That as nuich as the poor, sickly, half-starved, ragged, disconsolate man differs 
from the same man when prosperous, well fed, well clothed, in health, cheerful and 
at his ease, so much does the healthy, well-cultivated flower dift'er from the same flower 
when neglected, and planted in barren and improper soil. In vain will the same man 
exclaim, 'I am he, I am the man;' no one will believe him, scarce anyone will know 
him — he is the world's scorn. 

"So it is often the case with a flower, when in the hands of a florist, and again 
when in the care of some gentleman's or lady's bungling gardener — the flower is no 
longer acknowledged to be the same flower; thus reproach is very often unmeritedly 
incurred by the florist. 

"By way of recapitulation, then, Ije it added, that one-third fresh loam or maiden 
earth, two-thirds frame dung, with one-si.xth of the whole, dried road grit or sand, put 
together in the autumn, and frequently turned in the winter, will form a compost in 
wdiich almost any plant will thrive in the spring and summer following; and whoever 
manages to keep his plants in heallh. and in a vigorous state of growth. Avill never fail 
to have a generous bloom. — J'alclco." 




60 



CHAPTER V 

Manures and Fertilizers 

THERE is no more important question to the carnation grower than the 
fertility of the soil with which he has to operate. It is not only neces- 
sary that he shall be able to grow carnations, but he must be able to 
produce them at a substantial, paying profit. He must not only produce 
flowers that will sell for more than their cost in the way of labor, manures, 
interest on capital invested, and cost of keeping his plant in repair, but he 
must produce them at a profit sufficient to cover the reduction in the future 
fertility of his soil, or the cost of replenishing it. If he can produce crops and 
sell them at a profitable margin, and at the same time maintain and increase 
the productiveness of his soil, he will have become a successful business florist. 
In order to do this, it is necessary to acquire, through years of experience, 
a definite working knowledge of the principles involved in plant production. 
He must not only be able to propagate and grow carnation plants, harvest and 
sell his flowers at a profit, but also have a more or less definite knowledge 
of the use of manures and commercial fertilizers, and of what constitutes fer- 
tility of the soil, as well as a practical experience that will enable him to 
judge of the capacity of his soils and to maintain and increase their fer- 
tility. 

By fertility is meant the total content of plant food elements in the soil 
that are useable or available for plant growth. It must contain those ele- 
ments found in the plant, for it is axiomatic that you can take nothing from 
the soil which it does not contain. Experiments show that plants take up a 
number of chemical elements which seem to be required for their normal 
growth and development. Those most necessary to plant growth are stated 
as nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash and lime ; but magnesium, sulphur, 
sodium, iron, silicon and chlorine are also taken into the plant system in 
greater or less quantities. Nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash and lime are 
more rapidly exhausted from soils, because plants contain larger amounts of 
these elements than of the others above mentioned. 

In order to secure the best results in growing any plant, it is evident that 
soils must contain the maximum amount of those particular elements which 



Manures and Fertilizers 

the plant removes when the maximum crops are grown, as the removal of the 
crops exhausts the particular elements required by the plant, and eventually 
reduces the soil fertility to a point so low that profitable crops cannot be 
grown. 

The productiveness of soils is also largely influenced by their physical 
character. Soils which resist the penetration of air and water are less 
fertile than those that are soft and friable and freely permit the absorption of 
water and atmospheric action ; also, soils that are so fine and free from 
vegetable matter as to become compacted, hardened and impervious to heat, 
water and air, are less desirable than those of a coarser texture, as the latter 
will form an open, mellow soil in which the active resolvent agencies will 
freely work. 

The practical fertility of soil is measured by the amount of available 
or soluble plant food elements which it contains. In America most of 
our agricultural soils contain essential plant elements in large amounts, and 
this natural richness is supplemented by climatic conditions that tend to the 
rapid conversion of these elements into crops : nevertheless, it is true that 
continuous profitable crops of any nature cannot be grown without the use of 
manures, or of commercial fertilizers, as under such continuous cropping, if 
the plant elements removed are not replaced, the soils eventually become 
exhausted of their available plant constituents. Therefore, the future success 
of the florist will largely depend upon how well he understands the application 
of the principles involved in the preservation and use of the fertile constituents 
contained in his soils, as well as the practical use of the elements of fertilitv 
which he is able to purchase. 

As a guide to progressive florists, I would recommend the work, en- 
titled "Fertilizers." by Edward B. Voorhees, which may be obtained from The 
Macmillan Company of New York. The book named covers the subject of 
artificial fertilizers completely, and it can be studied by every commercial 
florist to his great profit. The following quotation from this work may be of 
interest to the observant florist as pointing out a possible cause of the crop 
failures of which we often hear : 

"What Becomes of Our Fertility? 

"Since fertilit\- is dependent upon so many conditions, or, in otlier words, since the 
essential elements of fertility are dependent upon their utihty, and since, in this sense, 
fertility is largely determined by natural conditions, it is pertinent to inquire, first, 
whether under our present systems of management, or mismanagement, of the land, it 
is sufifering any natural loss of fertility. As already pointed out, the most important 
function of fertility is to furnish nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash, and since the 

62 



Manures and Fertilizers 

content of these in our soil, together with the knowledge we have as to their use, 
measures, in a sense, our prosperity as an agricultural people, the possibilities of losing 
them from the soil is a matter of national concern, and is of vital interest to individual 
farmers, who, in the aggregate, make up that part of the nation directly aflfccted by the 
results of such loss. It would, perhaps, be possible, by a careful chemical survey of our 
soils, to determine both the actual and potential fertility of our entire country, and this 
knowledge, together with an accurate measure of the intelligence exercised in its use, 
would enable a prediction as to our future development, if present methods were con- 
tinued. That is, whether our land would become barren and worthless, as has been 
the case in many older countries which at one time were quite as productive, or whether 
it would constantly increase in productiveness, even with continuous and profitable 
cropping." 

As before stated, the principal elements necessary for plant growth are 
nitrogen, phosphoric acid and potash. Nitrogen, which is one of the most 
useful and most essential of the elements of plant food, is the most volatile of 
all these elements, the easiest lost and the most expensive to replace. It is 
not only taken up and removed from the soil by the crop, but where soils are 
allowed to remain uncropped, a large percentage of the nitrogen contained 
therein is lost by drainage; this loss, however, is practically prevented in 
soils which are continuously cropped. There is also a very large loss by 
evaporation, especially where certain classes of crops are grown upon lands 
that are especially rich in nitrogen. Experiments have shown that upon the 
very rich prairie lands of the West, where continuous crops of wheat are 
grown, the natural loss of nitrogen by evaporation is much greater than the 
quantity removed by the crop, the average crop of wheat reinoving about 
24j/^ pounds of nitrogen per acre, while 146 pounds per acre are lost by 
evaporation. On the contrary, where crops were grown in rotation with 
clover or some other nitrogenous-gathering plant, the gain in nitrogen ex- 
ceeded the amount carried away by the crop, and under such culture, as there 
was no loss by drainage, the land so cropped gradually increased its store of 
nitrogen and its fertility was not impaired. 

The late Professor Kedzie, of the Agricultural College of Michigan, 
strongly recommended the use of nitrogenous gathering plants for the purpose 
of permanently maintaining the fertility of land. In the production of crops, 
he also recommended abundant applications of nitrogenous manures until the 
growth of the plant is perfected, at which period liberal applications of 
super-phosphate or phosphoric acid result in the production of abundant 
crops. He gave as an example a pear orchard which had made a remarkable 
growth of foliage and tree for a number of years, but had borne no fruit. A 
liberal application of super-phosphate had produced an enormous crop of 
fruit, and this same orchard was maintained in profitable productive con- 

^3 



Manures and Fertilizers 

dition for a long period by the alternate application of nitrogenous manures 
and super-phosphate. The principal sources of nitrogen, aside from natural 
manures, such as horse, cow and sheep manures, which are frequently avail- 
able to florists contiguous to large cities where numbers of domestic animals 
are stabled, are as follows : 

First. Growing and ploughing under nitrogenous gathering crops, such as tlie 
various clovers, cow peas and soy beans. 

Second. Nitrate of soda, which contains from 15 to 16% per cent, of pure nitrogen 
and may be purchased from dealers in fertihzing materials at prices ranging from $45.00 
to $55.00 per ton. 

Third. Sulphate of ammonia, which contains 20 to 21 per cent, of nitrogen and 
costs from $65.00 to $75.00 per ton. This is tlie richest of all of tlie ammonia compounds, 
and when used with ground dried blood is particularly efficacious where a manure espe- 
cially rich in nitrogen is desired. 

Fourth. One of the best oi the chemical nitrogen cijmpounds is nitrate of potash, 
which contains 20 per cent, of nitrogen and 40 to ^2 per cent, of potash, and costs from 
$4.65 to $6.00 per one hundred pounds. 

Fifth. Ground dried blood, containing 12 to 17 per cent, of nitrogen and from 
a trace to 4 per cent, of phosphoric acid, costing $37.00 to $50,00 per ton, is also espe- 
cially valuable for florists' use. 

Si.xth. Peruvian guano, costing $45.00 to $55.00 per ton, is very rich in nitrogen 
and is valuable for use in making liquid manures. 

Seventh. Ground sheep manure, also rich in available nitrogen, and costing from 
$12,00 to $16.00 per ton. is particularly valuable for use as a liquid fertilizer, as well 
as for top dressing growing plants upon lienchcs, cir sowing in the drills where young 
plants are planted in the field. 

Eighth. Tankage, which contains from 4% to 10 ])er cent, of nitrogen and 10 to 45 
per cent, of bone phosphate, costing from $25.00 to $35.00 per ton, is also an excellent 
fertilizing material. 

Phosphoric Acid 

The next most essential element for plant growth is phosphoric acid, 
which is contained in large quantities in most soils, but which may generally 
be applied to advantage in connection with potash and nitrogen. One of the 
principal sources from wb.ich phosphoric acid is derived is raw i^rouiid bone, 
containing 20 to 22 per cent, of available phosphoric acid and about 4 per 
cent, of nitrogen. Steamed or boiled bone, which contains more phosphoric 
acid and less nitrogen than raw bone, is also more variable in coinposition, 
depending upon the degree of steaming to which it has been subjected. The 
refuse bone from glue factories, where the chief object is to extract the nitro- 
genous matter from the bone, contains from 28 to 30 per cent, of phosphoric 
acid and but a trace of nitrogen. 

Where bone is steamed at a bigh pressure, a favorable effect upon the 

64 



Manures and Fertilizers 

cliaracter of the bone is secured, as the process makes the bone soft and 
crumbl}-, and reduces it to a finer state of division than is usually accom- 
plished by grinding. As the bone is also practically free from fat, it is more 
useful as a source of phosphoric acid than the ground raw bone. Ground and 
steamed bones are sold at $23.00 to $27.00 per ton. 

Bone black, or animal charcoal, after liaving been used in the sugar re- 
fineries, consists chiefly of vegetable matter and moisture. It is variable in 
composition, containing from 32 to 36 per cent, of phosphoric acid and a 
small amount of nitrogen. It decays slowly in the soil, and its action extends 
over a considerable period. Bone black is sold at $18.00 to $20.00 per ton. 

Phosphoric acid, applied in the form of raw or steamed bone, gives up its 
nitrogen and phosphoric acid gradually, and its chemical and physical char- 
acteristics are such that during the growing season it forms no compounds in 
the soil more insoluble than itself. Bone is the only phosphatic material that 
is now used without further treatment than simply grinding. 

The commercial acid phosphate, sometimes known as super-phosphate or 
dissolved Carolina and Florida rock, contains from 14 to 15 per cent, of avail- 
able phosphoric acid. It costs from $12.00 to $14.00 per ton, and is probably 
the cheapest source of phosphoric acid that we have. 

The rock sulphates existing in South Carolina and Florida, sometimes 
called Charleston Phosphate or Florida Phosphate, contain from 18 to as 
high as 40 per cent, of phosphoric acid, which in its native form is largely 
insoluble, and must be treated with sulphuric acid before the phosphoric acid 
is made available. When so treated it is nearly as valuable as the various 
l)one phosphates above mentionetl, and is sold at $12.00 to $14.00 per ton. 

Potash 

The third important constituent of plant fertilizers, potash, is considered 
of less relative importance to plant growth than either nitrogen or phosphoric 
acid, as all good soils are, naturally, much richer in potash, and a less amount 
is removed from the soil in plant growth than of either nitrogen or phos- 
phoric acid. It is deemed, however, a necessary fertilizer constituent, and 
essential for use upon light sandy soils, or for peaty meadow lands. It is 
rated as particularly valuable in the building up of worn-out soils, as it is 
thought to contribute largely to the growth of nitrogenous gathering plants. 
The various sources of potash are as follows : 

First. Sulphate of potasli. which contains 48 to 53 per cent, of available potash 
and is probably the cheapest form in which potash can be secured. It can be purchased 
from dealers in fertilizing materials, at prices ranging from $44.00 t,o $4800 per ton. 

65 



Manures and Fertilizers 

Second. Muriate of potash contains from 50 to 55 per cent, of available potash, 
and may be purchased at prices ranging from $40.00 to $44.00 per ton. 

Third. Nitrate of potash, containing 40 to 42 per cent, of potash and 20 per cent, 
of nitrogen, is one of the most valuable fertilizer constituents known. It is somewhat 
expensive, costing from .$4.65 to $6.00 per 100 pounds, but, whenever it can be secured, 
it may be profitably used. 

Fourth. Kainit, containing about 12% per cent, of potash, may be purchased at 
prices ranging from $10.50 to $12.00 per ton. It is considered one of the least valuable 
of the various potash compounds offered, as it is a crude compound and much of the 
potash contained therein is not available. 

Fifth. Another source of potash is wood ashes, which contain from 16 to 40 per 
cent, of available potash, the amounts varying according to the character of the woods 
consumed in making the ashes, as well as the manner in which the ashes have been 
gathered and preserved. Ashes from hard woods such as maple, beech, hickory and 
oak, are richer in potash than those made from the softer woods, such as pine, hemlock, 
spruce, poplar, etc. Ashes that have been carefully gathered and stored in a dry place, 
where they are not exposed to leaching rains, are much more valuable than those not 
carefully protected, as they possess a much larger percentage of available potash. 
Leached ashes are of comparatively little value, as the greater proportion of the potash 
has been taken away. Wood ashes contain potash in one of its best forms, and also 
contain consideralilc quantities of lime and a small quantity of phosphoric acid. As 
usually ofifered for sale, they contain a considerable portion of moisture and dirt. Ihe 
average analysis of commercial wood ashes shows them to contain less than six per 
cent, of potash and two per cent, of phosphoric acid, and some 32 per cent, of lime, 
while the leached wood ashes contain a little over one per cent, of potash, about i^A 
per cent, of phosphoric acid and about 25 per cent, of lime. Where unleached ashes 
made from good hard woods can be obtained, they will prove one of the best sources 
of potash, as the potash contained in them is in a line state of division and immediately 
available. 

A.shes are said to have a favurable physical effect upon most soils, espe- 
cially upon those that are hea\ y. In purchasing ashes, they should always 
be bought subject to analysis, and die ]irice should be determined by the actual 
plant constituent contained, atid it sin mid not be greater thati that at which 
the same constituents can be purchased in other available forms. 

In carn-ation growing, the most profitable use that can be made of ashes 
is to sow them liberally upon sodded ground intended for future use as car- 
nation soil. The ashes should be spread u])(in the ground in the fall of the 
year. During the winter season they will be dissolved and leached into 
the soil. 

Liquid Manures 

The most useful fonn in which chemical manures can be employed by the 
carnation grower is by watering his growing plants with liquid fertilizers. 

66 



Manures and Fertilizers 

Various formulae have been from time to time furnished by difTerent experi- 
menters, as well as by the Experiment Stations. The following formulae 
have all been used by the writer, with success, the results thus far with any 
of the different formulas not being sufficiently striking to enable him to select 
either one or the other as giving positively the best results : 

Formula A: 250 pounds super-phosphate, 75 pounds nitrate of soda, 50 
pounds sulphate of potash. This is thoroughly mixed, ground together, and 
dissolved in water in the proportion of one ounce to one gallon of water, and 
applied to the soil about once in two weeks after the plants have become well 
established and are growing rapidly. 

Formula B : This formula has been used by one of our best chrysanthe- 
mum growers for a number of years, with great success: 50 pounds of 
nitrate of soda, 30 pounds nitrate of potash, 20 pounds phosphate of am- 
monia. This mixture is dissolved at the rate of one ounce to twelve gallons 
of water, and applied twice each week after the plants are growing rapidly 
until growth is completed ; then a liberal dose of super-phosphate is given 
to bring the plants into bloom. The foregoing formula makes a fertilizer 
which is completely soluble in water, and is probably one of the best. 

Formula C: 250 pounds super-phosphate, 30 pounds nitrate of potash, 
20 pounds phosphate of ammonia, 50 pounds nitrate of soda. This makes 
a formula particularly rich in nitrogen, and is used at the rate of one ounce 
to twelve gallons of water when applied weekly, or one ounce to two gallons 
of water when applied every two weeks. 

Formula D: 250 pounds super-phosphate, 100 pounds ground dried 
blood, 50 pounds sulphate of potash. Used at the rate of one ounce to one 
gallon of water, and applied once in two weeks, or at the rate of one ounce to 
twelve gallons of water and applied once or twice weekly. 

Formula E: 300 pounds bone black, 50 pounds sulphate of potash, 75 
pounds nitrate of soda. Applied in a similar manner as set forth in For- 
mula D. 

For exhausted soils the following formula ha? been used with consider- 
able success : 500 pounds super-phosphate, 75 pounds sulphate of potash, 300 
pounds ground sheep manure. This is sown in the drills at the rate of 300 
to 500 pounds per acre, according to the character of the soil, and is thor- 
oughly stirred in and incorporated with the soil before the drills are covered 
in and the ridges made upon which the young carnation plants are set. 

Mr. William Stewart, of the Indiana Agricultural Experiment Station, 
gives the following general formula, which he recommends for use in rose 

67 



iManures and Fertilizers 

growing: Super-phosphate containing 14 to 15 per cent, of available phos- 
phoric acid, 130 povnids ; sulphate of ammonia, 13 pounds; nitrate of soda, 
31 pounds; sulphate of potash, 26 pounds. This is dissolved at the rate of 
one ounce to one gallon of water, and applied once each week at the rate of 
two quarts per scjuare yard, for three or four weeks, until the plants have 
taken on a heavy growth, and then the quantity and time of application are 
regulated according to the needs of the plants. 

It may be stated as a general principle, that in applications of liquid chem- 
ical manures the plant should have become well established before the fer- 
tilizers are applied. The first application should be rather weak, and others 
made at considerable intervals apart, until the plants have shown, by active 
growth, that they are assimilating the fertilizers, at which time the applica- 
tions may be more frequent. 

So far as our experiments have extended, it has been demonstrated that to 
get the best practical results from the use of chemical fertilizers, it is neces- 
sary to have considerable vegetable fiber incorporated with the soil. In 
dense mineral soils, devoid of vegetable fiber, the application of chemical 
fertilizers should be made with extreme caution, as the results obtained in 
such soils will probably be entirely different from those obtained in soils 
rich in vegetable fiber, under the same treatment. In applying all classes of 
li(|uicl fertilizers, the condition of the soil must be carefully observed, and 
whenever an acid condition becomes apparent, the application of the liquid 
manures should be suspended and the acidity corrected by a top dressing of 
lime, or by a liberal application of lime water. 

In using liquid fertilizers care must be taken not to overfeed the plants, 
as fatal results may be caused thereby. A curious yet serious result from 
overfeeding with chemical fertilizers is described in the proceedings of the 
American Carnation Society for i8g6, by Prof. J. C. Arthur: 

"A very interesting abnormal development of the ilowers of the Carna- 
tion was recently brought to my attention by J\Ir. Fred. Dorner, who also 
kindly furnished me material for a preliminary study. The variation from 
normal habit first manifests itself by a failure of the full grown buds to ex- 
pand into open flowers. The enlargement of the petals continues as usual, 
but they do not separate from one another. When the bud is forcibly pulled 
open, it is found that the petals have adhered by their surfaces so finnly 
that they are torn, like pieces of paper pasted together that split before the 
mucilage will give way. This splitting of the petals is easily seen, as the 
color, which gives them brilliancy, is wholly in the surface layer of cells, 
while the tissue within is quite colorless or white, and clearly evident when 
exposed. 



Manures and Fertilizers 

"It is easy to convince one's self that the adhesion of the petals is not due 
to the presence of a sticky substance, for any length of soaking in water or 
alcohol does not cause them to separate any more easily. It is evident, fur- 
thermore, that the only surfaces that adhere are on the colored, velvety parts 
of the petals, the colorless bases or claws being normally free. 

"In the accompanying photographs a normal and an abnormal bud of 
Wm. Scott carnation is shown. The latter is several days older, somewhat 
lighter in color, and has grown to the utmost size ; a normal bud would 





ABNORMAL 



have expanded before the petals had attained the same length. The same 
buds were photographed after cutting off the upper half. In the normal bud 
the portion cut oft' at once dropped apart, but in the abnormal bud it re- 
tained its form equally well with the basal half." 



Natural Manures 

Wherever natural manures, such as horse, cow or sheep manure, can be 
obtained at reasonable prices, they are unquestionably the safest for ordinary 

69 



Manures and Fertilizers 

florists' purposes, as they may be used by persons having a much less knowl- 
edge of the action of fertilizers than is necessary in the case of fertilizer chem- 
icals, without danger of serious adverse results. Ordinary barnyard or stable 
manure should be well composted before being used, and in this connection 
there is an old work published by the Orange Judd Company, entitled "The 
Bommer Method of Making Manure," which can be profitably studied by 
every florist. Briefly stated, this method consists of stacking the manure in a 
square heap upon a grated platform placed over a cement-lined excavation, 
the drainage from this heap being carried to a vat or cistern. This heap 
is made under cover, and the stable cleanings are thrown upon it each day, 
as taken from the stable. A pump is placed in the vat, and the drainage 
from the heap is pumped back upon it at intervals and allowed to percolate 
through and drain off again. All of the drainage from the stable is also car- 
ried into this vat, and is supplemented by the addition of water whenever 
the liijiiid drained from the heap is not sufficient for the purpose of wetting 
it down well. By this method stable manures are composted and rendered 
fit fur use in a very short time, and with comparatively little loss of any of 
the fertilizer constituents, as by packing the manure firmly in the heap and 
wetting it thoroughly at stated intervals all danger of heating or firing is 
obviated, and the manure is tlecomposed with almost no loss of nitrogen. 

In making such a manure heap all the refuse found about a greenhouse, 
such as old plants, dust, leaves, sods, muck, straw, grass, weeds, plaster, marl, 
as well as scraps from the (hvelling house, may be put into it and decomposed 
together. The authur has such a heap, which has been in operation for 
several years in connection with his stables, and he has found that the manure 
thus produced is much stronger and richer than anything he is alile to pur- 
chase. 




70 



CHAPTER VI 

Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

Ol*" the two methods whereby young stocks of carnations may be 
increased, propagation by cuttings, or pippings, is almost exclusively 
used by the American grower. With the English carnation grower, 
in propagating the English varieties, layering is largely practiced ; but owing 
to the difference in climate and the slowness with which stock can be 
increased, that metlnul has not been found a practical one in America. 

Like Produces Like 

In the reproduction of any species of jilant by the use of cuttings, layers, 
or grafts, it may be stated as an axiom that, with but very rare exceptions, 
the progeny resulting from such propagation will be practical reproductions 
of the parent from which the cutting, layer, or scion is taken. The tendency 
to perpetuate the dominant characteristics of the parent plant is strongly 
maintained through many generations, subject only to such modifications 
as may occur from environment and treatment. 

Thus, cuttings from a carnation plant giving red blossoms also bear 
red flowers ; cuttings from a vigorous plant make vigorous young plants, and 
vice versa ; a graft, or cutting, from a plant having variegated foliage pro- 
duces plants with foliage also variegated. 

While the propagation of carnations by rooting cuttings is very simple, 
it requires not only judgment in the selection of healthy stock for propagat- 
ing purposes, but also in the selection of strong shoots from the most vigor- 
ous growth of the plant, and the importance of such judicious selection should 
not be underestimated. Young plants grown from any stock will partake 
largely of the characteristics of the parent plant and of its condition at the 
time the cuttings were taken. If we select propagating wood from sickly 
plants the constitutions of which are in a debilitated condition, the tendency 
toward ill-health will be to some extent perpetuated in the young stock, and 
vice versa ; if the stock is taken from healthy, vigorous growing plants at the 
time they are in the best condition, the tendency in the young stock will be 
largely toward vigorous, healthy growth. 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

This tendency of like to produce like is proved by the selection of propa- 
gating wood in the case of shoots that have sported. Cuttings taken from 
the branch which shows the variation from the type will in most instances 
produce a percentage of plants in which such variation remains, and fre- 
quent selection of cuttings from these plants will finally fix the variation, 
although for a considerable length of time there will be occasional rever- 
sions to the original tvpe. That is to sa^^ if a variegated-flowered carnation 




A — Desirable cuttings as talien from the sand — Note strong root systems 

B — Showing how inferior cuttings develop weak root systems 

C — Desirable cuttings taken from soil after they have become established 



throws a shoot bearing a white bloom, a certain percentage of the cuttings 
taken from this shoot will produce white blooms, but probably some will give 
variegated flowers. If the propagation is continued a greater proportion of 
the plants propagated from the one producing the white flower will continue 
to throw wliite flowers, although now and then a plant, or even a portion of a 



Propagatin<r and Shipping Young Stock 

plant, will produce a variegated flower. Un the other hand, if the propaga- 
tion of the progeny of the plant which reproduced the variegated flower is 
continued, the greater proportion of the young stock will produce variegated 
flowers, but now and then one will give a white flower. Thus, sports may 
become fixed by a constant selection of cuttings from parents that show the 
strongest tendency to maintain the variation. 

This is also again proved in the case of variations in branches which 
produce an enormous quantit)' (jf foliage and no flowers. Cuttings taken 
from such branches will eventually produce a race of plants that will not 
bloom at all. The author has grown such types of plants two years without 
being able to obtain a single bloom upon them. 

In propagating from a diseased plant a percentage of the progeny will 
also show the diseased tendency, while the other proportion will show a ten- 
dency to resume the normal or healthy growth. This healthy condition may 
be perpetuated by selecting the strongest plants for propagating purposes and 
continuing such selection. Therefore, in the perpetuation of a stock of car- 
nations, such stock will be either poor or good according to the care used, 
not only in the selection of the parent plants from which to propagate, but 
also in the selection of the best and most vigorous wood from such plants. 
The axiom, "Like produces like," is particularly true in growing carna- 
tion plants from cuttings, and in propagating the golden rule should be, 
"Strong shoots from strong, vigorous plants in perfect health." Varieties 
of carnations may be split up into several distinct strains by means of this 
selection ; therefore, the grower who aims to produce a particular type of 
carnation will need to select plants for propagating purposes that approximate 
the desired type, and to continue such selection, and if he would keep the 
strain pure he must avoid propagating from plants which show sensible 
variations from the type he desires to maintain. 

In the early history of propagating carnations in America the larger 
proportion of the propagating wood was taken from near the base of the 
plant, as the grower was anxious to preserve the wood in the upper portion 
of the plant for flowering purposes. In those days carnation flowers were 
picked with short stems and every pip or bud was allowed to come into 
bloom, therefore the removal of any portion of the wood from the upper 
part of the plant was counted by the grower as a distinct loss. In some in- 
stances, where propagation was followed up for a long period by the selec- 
tion of these base cuttings, varieties finally ceased to bloom and produced 
nothing but a large amount of grass. With the advent of growing long- 
stemmed carnation blooms the system of selecting the cuttings was changed, 

73 



Propagating; and Shipping Young Stock 

and at the present time the base cuttings are scarcely ever used, nor are the 
cuttings which grow high up in the top of the plant. Those pips growing 
along about six to eight inches of the center portion of the blooming stem 
are considered by the modern grower as the best wood for propagating pur- 
poses. (See cut showing branches of carnation used which are marked desir- 
able cuttings and inferior cuttings.) 




Propngatiuf^ Wood 
A — Desirable cuttings B — Inferior cuttings 



These cuttings are taken from the plant when in the proper condition 
for rooting. This varies to some extent in different varieties. As a rule, 
it may be said that cuttings of most varieties of carnations are in the best 
condition for rooting from the time the bloom begins to show color ; that is, 
when it begins to open until the flower is ready to cut for market. There 
are, however, certain kinds from which cuttings taken at tliis period will be 

74 



Propagating and Shipping Voting Stock 

too liard, but such sorts are very rare. Tliere are also other varieties upon 
which the cuttings will be too young and soft, and will not have completed 
their growth nor be in a proper condition for rooting at the time the flowers 
are cut. \\'ith this latter class, in order to get the proper quantity of propa- 
gating wood, it will be necessary to sacrifice the flowers ; that is, to pinch 
out the buds a short time after they have extended beyond the foliage, which 
cutting back of the plant causes the side shoots to break, and in the course 
of time a large supply of strong propagating wood will be produced. In 




Propagating Bench Shaded with Curtains 



fact, a number of the varieties of carnations introduced in later years have 
the blooming tendency so strongly developed that the only practical method 
of obtaining stock in quantity is to cut back the plants and rely upon the new 
growth. 

The cuttings are taken from the stem by a smart pull downward, so as 
to tear away a small portion of the bark from the flower stem with the heel 

75 



Propagating^ and Shipping Young Stock 

of the cutting. When taken from the plant, cuttings must not be allowed 
to lie around and wither, but should be put in the sand with as much dis- 
patch as is practicable. Where it is necessary to take off the cuttings some 
time l)cfore placing them in the sand, as is sometimes the case where large 
quantities of stock are propagated, they should be thoroughly sprayed 
with clear, cold water, and then wrapped in wet papers and placed in a cool 




Short Spnn to South Fropagatin<^ House 
Width. 17 fet-t: hcii^ht to ridge, 9 feet: width al' benches, 5 feet 



room out of all draughts or drying winds, and where they will not heat. This 
is for the purpose of preventing their withering, drying out or heating. If 
treated in this manner cuttings may stand from twelve to fourteen hours 
without serious injury. 

76 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 
Propagating House 

Almost any style of a greenhouse can be used for propagating purposes. 
Many propagators prefer one with a northerly aspect; that is, one erected 
on the north side of a building or wall. Such a house may be used to advan- 
tage, but in the dark days of winter we have found that cutting bench fungus 
will develop more rapidly in a house so placed, where it is absolutely pro- 
tected from all rays of the sun upon the south side, than in a lighter house. 
The type of house in which we have had the best success is known as a short- 
span-to-the-south house, which was built after many years of experimenting 
with various forms of propagating houses. 

This house is lightly shaded upon the south side, and in addition to this 
shade, in the spring and early summer months when the sun is excessively 
hot, the southerly side is covered with an additional shading of cheese cloth 
sash. In the spring, as the sun gets higher and its rays more powerful, the 
north side is also shaded, during bright days, with a similar sash' covered 
with light protecting cloth. When shaded in this manner this house cai> 
be kept fully as cool as one with a northerly aspect, and it has the additional 
advantage of permitting us to remove all of the shade excepting the light coat 
of paint on the south side during dark days, and we are also able to main- 
tain a light, airy atmosphere at all times. This has been found to be a great 
advantage, and since using this style of house less trouble with all sorts of 
fungous diseases has been experienced. 

Construction of Propagating Bench 

In our early experience in propagating carnations we used any ordinary 
greenhouse bench, cleaning ofi" the bench thoroughly, whitewashing the in- 
side of it, and calking the cracks with sphagnum moss in order to prevent 
the sand running through the bottom. From three to six inches of sand 
was used, and upon these benches, when new, very good results were gen- 
erally obtained. But in a few years, when the wood became afifected with 
decay, trouble with cutting bench fungus was apt to set in, and increase as. 
the benches became older and the wood more decayed. 

At the present time we are using two forms of benches — the sub-irriga- 
tion, the construction of which is described in Chapter XVI., and the brick 
bottom bench. While we have found the sub-irrigation bench, on the whole, 
the better type, almost as good a bench is made by laying porous brick upon 
the flat side over the entire bottom of the bench, as shown on page ■/■]. 
The advantage of the terra cotta or brick bottom is that the bricks abs(irl> 

77 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

from the sand any surplus moisture and in turn return moisture to the sand 
whenever it becomes drier than the brick. 

This brick or terra cotta bottom should be from two and a half to four 
inches thick. When once warmed up this bottom gives off its heat con- 
stantly and evenly, and also acts as a shield against the intense heat from 
the heating pipes, preventing the baking or drying out of the sand from 
beneath. The heating pipes should be some distance from the bottom of 









^afW-A- M^/CA- ^/?/Cfe : '/, 



L^ i: -ixV- //fMiScA: 



■i>A.\^;\^'i6- \^\^^6 \z\zxi TTj Ti^ 



^. 



ririck Bottomed Propagatin;^' Bench 

ihe bench : not nearer than eighteen inches at any point. While bottom heat 
is desirable, it should be generally and evenly diffused over the entire bot- 
tom of the benches, and it should not be allowed to become intense at any 
point. A very even bottom heat may be secured by tacking a curtain of 
light protecting cloth around the sides of the benches, allowing it to hang 
down to within two or three inches of the grotmd. This protecting cloth 
will keep the atmosphere under the benches a few degrees warmer than the 
air of the greenhouse, while at the same time it permits of the gradual diffu- 
sion of heat into the atmosphere above the benches, and tends to keep an 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 



even temperature throughout the house, underneath as well as above the 
benches. The temperature above the benches should be lo to 15 degrees 
cooler than that under the benches. 

There should be no overhead heating pipes in the propagating house, 
but the arrangement of piping should be such that the diffusion of heat 
through the cheese cloth curtains at the side of the benches will be sufficient 
to keep the atmosphere throughout the propagating house at the proper 
temperature ; that is, 45 to 50 or 55 degrees. 

Propagating Mediums 

Many different materials can be used as media in which to strike cut- 
tings. Sifted coal ashes or pulverized cinders mixed with sand may be 




Short Span to South Propagating House 

Width, IT feet; height to ridge, 9 feet; width of benches, 3 feet 

employed. Cocoanut fiber, also ground sphagnum moss mixed with sand, 

and a number of porous materials free from vegetable or fermenting or 

decaying matter, have been used with success. 

79 



Propa<^atin,u; and Shii)])in<j; Youn^ Stock 

In the preparation of material used tn till the henches care must always 
be taken that it shall not be mixed with sour loam, and especially with 
decaying vegetable matter, as such impurities tend to develop that bane 
of the propagator, the cutting bench fungus. The most desirable and profit- 
able material for propagating purposes is clean, sharp builders' sand. Many 
qualities and textures of sand may be employed, and each grower must 
put up with the best that may be available in his locality. The sand shoulil 
be sharp, free from loam and all other impurities, and in preparing it for 
the bench it should be sifted through a tine sieve so as to remove all small 
stones and make it run even in texture. If it can be sterilized so much 
the better. 

Three to four inches in depth of sand is sut^cient ; in fact, a bench 
with two and a half inches of clean sand overlying the terra cotta or Ijrick 
bottom makes one of the must successful 
propagating benches. in filling the bench 
the sand should be ciinipacte<I by hainniering 
it with a brick (ir a tool made for the pur- 
]iose, so that it will be of an even density 
thniughout the entire 1)ench. The sand must 
be thoroughly moist throughout and emn- 
pacted before the cuttings are placed in it. 
In placing the cuttings in the sand they must be inserted firmly without 
bruising them in any manner, and the sand compacted about the base so 
that the cutting is held firmh- and erect, and no air can get to the base to 
witiier vv dry it up. 

The following method of preparing the cuttings has proved the best 
under our practice at Queens, after many years of experimental work, 
during which period upward of two and a half millions of cuttings have 
been rooted and either sold or grown into plants: The cuttings are taken 
from the plants with a short, sharp, downward pull, that tears off a little 
of the bark from the main stem. If the cutting is so snft that none of the 
bark frcmi the main stem comes with it, it is not considered in a fit condi- 
tion for striking. ( )n the other hand, if it is so hard that a considerable 
portion of the wood from the main stem is removed with the cutting, form- 
ing a tail an inch or more in length, it is considered too hard and not desir- 
able. Just suflficient of the bark of the main stem should come away with 
the cutting to form a little splint a quarter of an inch, or a little over, in 
len"th. 




Tool for Finninis Sand. 



80 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

As fast as the cuttings are removed from the plants they are taken to a 
cool room and laid upon a table, and immediately dampened and covered 
with moist paper. They are kept moistened and cool while undergoing the 
process of preparation, and until they are placed in the sand are not exposed 
to drying winds nor allowed to wilt. But when placed in the sand they are 
more plump and brittle, if anything, than when taken from the plant. 

I much prefer taking the cuttings in the early part of the day when 
the plant is fresh and plump. 1 do not consider cuttings taken late in the 
day, when the plant inay be somewhat wilted, as good for propagating 
purposes as when taken from the plant when in a fresh, brittle condition. 

In preparing cuttings the little splint of bark at the heel is taken of? 
just a shade below the heel with a very sharp knife. The short curled leaves 
at the base of the cutting, wherever they will interfere with putting it into 
the sand easily, are also removed, and with very long cuttings the tips of 
the foliage are trimmed ofif. 

Putting the Cuttings in the Sand Bench 

This is an operation which must be performed, not only with rapidity, 
but with such care and thoroughness as will secure the firm fixing of the 
cutting in the sand, and the packing of the sand about the base of the cut- 
ting so firmly that the air cannot get at the base where the callous properly 
forms. 

The sand in the cutting bench is sprayed with a fine rose until it is 
thoroughly moistened to the bottom of the bench. The sand is then com- 




Putty Knife. 

pacted with a special tool made for the purpose until the bench is firm 
and hard throughout. There are two simple tools used during the opera- 
tion ; one is the straightedge, which is made long enough to reach across 
the bench, and which is usually about half an inch in thickness, and one 
and a quarter to one and a half inches in width. The second tool is an 
ordinary wide-bladed putty knife, about eight inches in length. (See accom- 
panying engraving.) The straightedge is laid upon the sand and given 

G 8i 



Propagatin}^ and Shipping Young Stock 

several sharp raps along its length with the butt of the knife handle. 
The knife is then drawn along the edge, cutting a drill in the sand from 
three-quarters of an inch to an inch in depth, according to the size and 
length of the heels of the cuttings which are being benched. The cut- 
tings are then placed in this trench, about a half to three-quarters of an 
inch apart. By sharply pressing downward on the cutting the base will be 
fixed in the bottom of the drill so firmly that it holds the cutting perfectly 
erect. When the row is full the straightedge is again laid alongside of 
the row of cuttings and given several sharp raps with the butt of the 
knife handle. This compacts firmly the sand around the base of the cut- 
ting. The straightedge still lying in position, the knife is again drawn 
along its edge, cutting the drill as before about an inch and a half distant 
from the row of cuttings already set in. 

This operation is repeated until the stock is in the Ijcncli. As soon as 
the operator finishes his batch of cuttings he takes a Boston hose nozzle 
and wets down the bench with sufficient thoroughness to compact the sand 
round the base of the cuttings and fill up all the interstices which may 
have been left. The cuttings are now ready for the operation of callousing 
and rooting, and if they have been properly selected and placed in the sand, 
and if they receive the correct treatment thereafter, from 95 to 98 per cent, 
of cuttings taken from most varieties of carnations will produce strong, well- 
rooted plants. 

The temperature of the propagating house shoul<l lie maintained at cer- 
tainly not higher than 50 to 55 degrees overhead: if possible to keep it as 
low as that. It is probably better for the health of the cuttings if the over- 
head temperature runs from 45 to 50 degrees, and it can be maintained as 
low as 40 degrees provided the bottom or sand temperature is carried from 
10 to 15 degrees higher. But where the temperature is carried as low 
as 40 degrees the rooting process of most varieties of carnations will take 
an additional week. 

The sand temperature should run from about 56 to 60 degrees, cer- 
tainly not higher than 65 degrees, the lower temperature being much pre- 
ferred 

After having been sprayed sufficiently to firm down any loose sand 
around the Iiase of the cuttings, only sufticient s|)raying or watering should 
be given daily to keep the cuttings from flagging or wilting. It is de- 
cidedly deleterious to spray too nuich or to keep the saiul surcharged with 
water, as such condition produces a soft growth and thereby promotes dis- 
eases, such as the cutting bench fungus and stem rot. For the same rea- 

82 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

son, a too dense shade is not desirable. Movable cloth-covered sash are 
preferred to permanent shading, so that on dark, cloudy days the. houses 
may be kept in a lighter condition by removing the sash shades. 

The atmosphere of the propagating house should at all times be moist, 
and this is best maintained by dampening the paths early in the morning, 
and possibly again during the middle of the day as the season advances 
and the sun becomes brighter. 

In order to keep down green fly, aphis, thrips. etc., a moderate but 
constant evaporation of some tobacco preparation is desirable. One of the 
best means of producing this is by the use of the Lonsdale Evaporating 
Pan. This pan is so constructed that it can be screwed on to the heating 
pipes; the steam passes through a hollow chamber underneath the pan, 
heating the contents and driving them off into the air slowly, charging the 
air with tobacco-laden fumes. Where such evaporating pans are not avail- 
able similar results may be attained by painting the heating pipes, once 
each week, with a solution of tobacco extract, of the consistency of thin 
paint. Insects may also be kept down and destroyed by fumigating the 
propagating house with either tobacco stems or tobacco dust. The tobacco 
extract may also be evaporated from an ordinary metal pan of any descrip- 
tion placed upon an oil stove. Fumigation by burning tobacco stems, or 
tobacco dust, is not as desirable as the use of the tobacco extract. This 
extract can be used without any danger of injuring the cuttings; whereas, 
when fumigating by burning stems the cuttings ma\- lie injured in case the 
houses are filled with a too dense smoke. 

In about ten days after the cuttings are placed in the sand they will 
begin to callous, which operation precedes the formation of roots. Less 
moisture is required at this period, and more care in ventilating. As soon 
as the cuttings emit roots, which will be in from eighteen to twenty-one 
days from the time they are put into the sand, the withholding of water and 
giving of more air for the purpose of hardening oft' the cuttings should 
commence. 

Cuttings of different varieties of carnations recjuire from three to five 
weeks to become thoroughly well rooted, according to the condition and 
disposition of the variety and the temperature at which the propagating 
house is carried. If the temperature under the benches be held at 70 to 75 
degrees, and the overhead temperature at from 60 to 65 degrees, cuttings 
will root a few days sooner than if the temperature is carried lower ; but the 
time gained by employing such high temperature is at the expense of the 

83 



Propagatintr and Shipping Youni; Stock 

future constitution of the plant, aiul for this reason rooting cuttings in higli 
temperatures should be avoided. 

As soon as the roots have grown from one-quarter to one-half an inch 
in length the cuttings should be taken ^nn nf the sand and potted up. How- 
ever, if they are to be shipped to a ennsiderable distance, it will be neces- 
sary to leave them in the sand several da\s longer, as when the roots are 
so very \(iung thev are brittle and are apt to be shaken oft during the proc- 
ess of packing and shipping. While cuttings are in a lietter condition for 
potting up when the roots are young than those that have been allowed to 
remain in the sand until the wood, as well as the roots, has become hardened 
and tough, thev will not ship as well, and many rootlets will be lost. When 
potted, the younger cuttings will start into growth sooner after potting than 
the older, tougher stock. 

Packing Cuttings for Shipment 

Cuttings designed for shipment to any considerable distance should not 
be taken from the sand until the rootlets have made a growth of three- 
quarters of an inch to an inch in length. In removing them from the sand 
it should be very carefully done, so as not to destroy or break ofif the root- 
lets. When taken from the sand the cuttings should be at once placed in 
a cool situation, and under no circumstances should they be allowed to re- 
main exposed to the sun's rays, or drying winds or heat, as such exposure 
will cause them to flag or wilt. The sand from which they are taken should 
be fairly moist, but not surcharged with water. In shipping long distances, 
and for the purposes of light packing, we frequently wash the sand from 
the roots by dipping them in a pail of water. If this is carefully done the 
roots are less liable to be broken or rubbed off in packing than if the sand 
is left adhering. 

In packing, fine, clean sphagnum moss should be used, and this should 
be wetted down some time previously in order to have it equally well 
moistened throughout. It should not be wringing wet, but in a state to 
retain a fair degree of moisture for a number of days. Both moss and cut- 
tings should be in a cool condition before packing. If kept in a temperature 
of 45 to 50 degrees they will lie in the right condition to pack. If packed 
in a high temperature, it will tend to cause heating during transit, espe- 
cially in the spring or warm months. 

It is best to pack cuttings in bunches of twenty-five ; not exceeding fifty 
in any case. In packing, sheets of strong, soft ]:)apcr (old newspapers), 
cut to about nine to twelve inches in size, should be provided. Lay a small 

84 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

handful of damp sphagnum moss upon the sheet of paper, so spread out and 
disposed that when the cuttings are placed on the moss their roots and necks 
will be covered by the moss, but the tops will remain free and dry. Spread 
the cuttings on the moss in a thin line, roots and tops equally disposed. 
Commence rolling the paper so as to close in the moss and cuttings. After 
giving one roll fold the paper at the bottom over the roots and 
then roll all into a fairly compact bundle. Roll evenly and gently. Do 
not press hard upon the roots, or they will be bruised, and many of them 
break ofif. Tie the bundle neatly with a soft string, some raffia, or enclose 
with an elastic rubber band, and the cuttings are then ready to pack in the 
case. 

Use a case just large enough to hold the quantity to be shipped. Line 
the case with heavy paper, using as many thicknesses as may be required 
to keep out the frost. Old newspapers make the best of all linings and are 
not expensive. In very cold weather, ten, and often fifteen, thicknesses of 
paper are necessary in order to protect the plants from freezing, and, in 
addition, the box should be wrapped upon the outside with five or six thick- 
nesses and covered with a final wrapping of heavy manilla paper, which 
should be securely tied or nailed on so that no air can get through to the 
box. In packing large cases, excelsior should be placed between the layers 
so as to prevent heating. Finally, nail the cover on the box securely. 
When 'nailed, the contents of the box should be so firmly packed that they 
will not move or shake about. 

Be sure to write the name and address of the consignee plainly upon 
the box, so that there will be no mistake upon the part of the shipping agents 
in determining its destination. Forward by such train as will insure a 
prompt delivery of the shipment to the consignee. Delays in transit are dan- 
gerous to carnation cuttings, and many a shipper is blamed for sending poor 
stock, when the real fault lies in improper packing and careless handling and 
delay en route. 

Propagation by Layering 

There is very little propagation by layering practiced among the carnation 
growers of the United States : so little, in fact, that we have practically no 
literature upon the subject. I must confess that I have done very little of it, 
as I found our hot, dry summers not well adapted to the operation. 

The following description of la}-ering, as practiced by the English 
gardener, is taken from an essay by R. Dean, which was published in the 

8s 



Propagating and Shipping Young Stock 

Carnation Manual, edited and issued by the National Carnation and Picotee 
Society, southern section of England : 

"August is the month in which lo layer carnations; the shoots have be- 
come firm, and can be manipulated without danger of snapping off. The first process 
is 10 trim the layers, using a pair of sharp scissors, cutting away the leaves close to 
the stein up to about the fourth or fifth joint from the point. Then, by means of a 
pointed stake, take out from the pot two inches or so of the old soil, and replace it , 
with new, something after the nature of that recommended for cuttings. Should the 
soil about the roots be dry, give a good soaking of water, and allow it to drain away 
before filling the pot with fresh soil. The new compost should be raised up to the 
level of the rim, but pressed somewhat firmly as the work of filling proceeds. Pegs 
are necessary to fasten the layers securely down into the soil. Those made of fern 
are usually employed; it is also possible to obtain pegs made of flexible wire, and 
these, being much more durable, are cheapest in the end. Then the layerer, taking 
the trimmed shoot fimily between the thumb and forefinger of his left hand, thrusts his 
knife — the blade of which should be small, narrow, and sharpened on both sides — 
through the third or fourth joint, bringing it out at the back by means of a clean and 
rapid cut ; the tongue of the layer is shortened, if necessary ; it is then pressed gently 
down into the fresh soil, and secured by means of a peg. When the whole of the 
layers are laid down — and they generally are made to form a fringe around the inner 
rim of the pot — the surface soil should be leveled ofif and the surface made neat. 

"Some shoots are too high up on the plant to be able to bend them low enough 
to layer in the ordinary' way. A zinc rim, two or three inches in depth, can be fitted 
to the pots, filled with soil, and by this means it is brought nearer to the level of 
the layers. 

"When all is completed, a light sprinkling overhead should be given by means of 
a rose watering-pot, and the pots stood out in the open until the layers have rooted, 
which, in good season, will happen in from a month to six weeks. 

"By the end of September, and during the first two weeks in October, the layers 
will be sufficiently rooted to admit of potting off." 




86 



CHAPTER VII 

Treatment of Young Carnation Stock Preparatory to 
Planting Out 

As soon as the cuttings have become well furnished with young lootlets, 
ranging from a quarter to half an inch in length, they are ready to 
be transferred to small pots (two to two-and-a-quarter-inch) or 
planted out in flats, and to enter upon their second period of growth. 
The preparation of the soil to be used in this stage of growing the 
young plants is fully described in Chapter IV. Such soil should be kept 
always on hand where it will not be exposed to heavy rainstorms and 
its fertility lost by leaching. When prepared for potting, the soil should 
be in a slightly moist condition ; tliat is, it should feel smooth and com- 
fortable to the hand and break up easily when rolled into a ball and 
pressed or crushed. The degree of moisture should not be such as to 
cause the ball to be permanently hardened by the operation of potting, 
but there should be sufficient so that the soil can be properly firmed. 
Two-inch pots for moderate growing varieties, and two-and-a-quarter-inch 
for the larger, stronger growing sorts, are the proper sizes to use. Smaller 
pots are disadvantageous, as they dry out rapidly and require frequent 
watering, while larger pots are objectionable because of the amount of 
bench room they occupy, as well as the danger of over-watering. If a 
deep pot is used, such as a rose pot, it is preferred by many and may be 
beneficial where light soil is employed for potting. 

The operation of potting is very simple ; nevertheless, it requires atten- 
tion, care and a close observation of detail, in order that it may be done with 
rapidity and correctly. The soil, having been thoroughly broken up, and 
the larger lumps and clods reduced so that the mass is of an even texture 
throughout, is placed upon the potting bench in a heap in front of the oper- 
ator. The workman takes the pot in his left hand, filling the pot about two- 
thirds to three-quarters full of soil. The cutting is then taken in the right 
hand, the roots being placed in the pot and shaken so as to be spread out in 
a natural manner. More soil is then placed upon the top of the roots until 



Treatment of Young Carnation Stock 

the pot is tilled slightly above the rim. The pot is then given a sharp rap 
on the table and the soil firmed with the thumbs around the edge of the 
pot and uver the roots. 

\\ hen the operation of potting is completed the neck of the plant should 
be about a quarter of an inch below the top, or rim, of the pot. The work 
should be thoroughly done and the soil well firmed so that it will hold the 
cutting erect when watered. Care, however, must be taken not to pot the 
cuttings too deep. The root crown should be about a quarter of an inch 
below the surface of the soil. As each plant is potted it is placed in a flat 
which stands at the left of the operator, and as fast as these flats are filled 
a helper carries them away and places them on the benches in a well-venti- 
lated, light house. 

The first watering of freshly potted cuttings should be light, and the 
bench gone over perhaps twice with a light showering in order to afford to 
all of the plants an even supply of water. A fine Boston rose is used, which 
throws the water upon the plants in a gentle, misty shower, as is the case 
when a gentle rain is falling. Under no circumstances should the newly 
potted plants be soaked with a heavy deluge of water, but the watering should 
be done in such a manner that in the course of an hour the moisture has 
penetrated to the bottom of the pot and the soil is evenly moistened through- 
out, but not in a sodden condition. So far as I have observed, much injury 
is frequently done by the soaking of freshly potted plants, in many instances 
the young rootlets being destroyed or drowned out by the surplus water ; 
indeed, I have seen many who profess to be expert carnation growers soak- 
ing the cuttings to such an extent that a considerable portion of them damped 
ofif. The 'young plant, when taken from the sand with its roots just form- 
ing, is to a certain extent in a delicate condition, and requires very favorable 
growing surroundings in order that it may continue growth without seri- 
ous check. It needs no more moisture in the soil than its root system can 
absorb and the plant can evaporate through the foliage. Anything beyond 
this is a surplusage and a distinct detriment. 

After the plants are watered they should be lightly shaded, and so long 
as they do not wilt they should not receive additional water until root action 
commences. This can be told from the appearance of the plants, which will 
straighten u|) and the foliage become plump and fresh. At this period — 
that is, until the plants straighten up, showing root action — the house should 
be kept a little close and the young plants protected from draughts. If 
properly treated, root action will commence within thirty-six to forty-eight 
hours, and it should he well established within three to four davs from the 



Treatment of Young Carnation Stock 

time of potting. The shading should be removed as soon as the plants show 
that they have a firm hold of the soil. However, in the late spring, when 
the sun is exceptionally hot, the shading may be continued during the hot- 
test part of very bright, sunshiny days, in order to prevent flagging, wilting 
or the soil drying out too rapidly. 

Flats may be substituted for pots, and are largely used by many growers 
who have not sufficient bench room to hold the number of plants they re- 
quire in pots, as many more plants in flats than in pots can be carried upon 
the same bench space. There are, however, many objections to flats, and of 
late years the more experienced growers are gradually abandoning their use 
and employing pots exclusivel\-. 

Flats should be from two and a half to three inches deep, and may be 
twenty-four inches long and from twelve to sixteen inches wide. A num- 
ber of holes should be bored through the bottom, or the bottom should be 
made of slats in order to provide for drainage. A perfectly tight flat which 
provides for no drainage is dangerous, for the reason that the soil is liable 
to be over-watered and become soured, and the growth of the plants checked. 
Where this occurs the plants will turn a sickly, yellowish-green color. The 
same thing will take place if the jjlants are over-watered in the pots or if 
they are allowed to stand in pots or flats until they become root-bound and 
the soil exhausted. The plants may be set in flats in rows two and a half to 
three inches apart, and one and a half to two inches apart in the row, using 
the same care not t<> plant too deeply as is recommended to be used in potting. 

Shifting 

After the young plants have been growing in the small pots from four 
to six weeks the soil w"ill become exhausted and so well filled with roots 
that the plants will need more room and additional soil in which to expand 
their root system and elaborate their growth. It will then be necessary to 
shift into a larger pot, and this should be done as soon as the ball is well 
filled with roots, and before any tendency to harden in the plant has been 
developed. Probably many of the important failures in carnation growing 
are due to improper treatment of young stock at this period. If a plant is 
once thoroughly checked and hardened so that growth is entirely stopped 
and the plant brought to an absolutely dormant condition, it will seldom, 
if ever, be as good a plant as if it had been kept in a healthful, vigorous, 
growing condition. It may give as large a crop of flowers, and in some in- 
stances a larger one, especially if the plant has been seriously checked, as 
after serious checks the plant will endeavor to perpetuate its species by the 

89 



Treatment of Youni: Carnation Stock 



production of an abundant crop of flowers and the maturing of seed ; but 
the stems will be shorter and more tough and wiry, and the blooms smaller. 
In order to get the best results in the way of long, stiff stems and large 
flowers with perfect calyces, carnation plants should not be checked in growth 
from the time they are taken from the cutting bench, but should be kept in a 
vigorous, healthy growing condition throughout the entire period of forcing 
and blooming. 

In shifting from a two-inch pot a 
two-and-a-half to three-inch [lot may be 
used, according to the vigor of the 
variety ; and for plants growing in two- 
and-a-quarter-inch pots a three to three- 
and-a-half-inch pot is suitable. In shift- 
ing, when the young plant is turned out of 
the pot preparatory to repotting, the soil 
should be broken away from the neck of 
the plant and the ball lightly crushed. 
.Sufficient soil is put into the larger pot, 
so that when the ball is placed in the pot 
the neck of the plant will stand just at 
the rim. Fresh soil is then filled in 
around the outside of the ball and packed 
and firmed with the thumbs, adding more 
soil until the top of the ball is covered, 
and then firming done well. The same 
care should here be taken that the neck 
of the plant be not placed too deep. 
Similar attention as to watering should 
also be used as with the first potting. 
Under no circumstances should the plants 
be deluged with water ; the soil in the 
pots should be only sufficiently moist to 
carry on active growth. 




Yuiing Carnntiiin Phiiit in 2-inch pot 

ready for shifting to a larger pot 

Note tlie active roat action 



Pinching Back or Stopping 

After the plants have been repotted, and with some varieties while still 
in the smaller pots, the center shoot will push forward and begin to form a 
bud. As soon as this bud has become fairly well formed, the shoot should 
be cut back (leaving four to six joints), for the purpose of causing the plant 



90 



Treatment of Young Carnation Stock 

lo break new growths at the joints or axils of the leaves. When ready to 
be set in the field, or when they are to be set upon the benches in June for 
culture under glass throughout the summer, all plants that have been struck 
in January and February should have been stopped back at least once, and 
each plant should have from four to five good strong breaks that are pretty 
well advanced in growth. It will be of no disadvantage if these growths 
are well advanced toward the first stages of bud formation. 




Carnation Plants Ready lor Planting in the Field 
a — Plants that have been stopped h — Plant not yet ready lor stopping 



Cuttings rooted in January and February, which are to be carried in 
pots until June and planted upon benches for growth imder glass through- 
out the summer, should receive not less than two shifts after potting up ; 
first from the two-inch to a three-inch pot, and then into a four-inch pot. 
Such plants should have from four to six strong breaks that are pretty well 
advanced toward the bud formation. 

In order to get the best results from cultivation under glass throughout 

91 



Treatment of Youn<4 Carnation Stock 

the summer only extra strong plants should be used. While the young plants 
remain growing in the pots all blooming shoots should be cut back as soon 
as in the proper condition. \\'hcn ready to set in the field the young plants 
should have a strong, vigorous appearance. The stems should be brittle, 
and the color should be of a dark, rich green, a striking contrast to the sickly, 
yellowish green which is seen in plants that have been either over-potted or 
over-watered, or allowed to become root-bound or stood in an exhausted soil. 

In preparing the young stock, before planting into the field the plants 
shoulil receive sufficient water to moisten the balls through to the bottom of 
the put. When turned out of the pots and placed in flats to be carried into 
the field, the top soil, to about a quarter of an inch in depth, should be taken 
ofl:' with the fingers, and the ball should receive a slight pressure to break 
up its dense, compact condition, for it is always desirable to have the balls of 
Sdil mellow, and very undesiralile to have them in a hardened, brick-like 
state when planted out. When ])lante(l either on the benches or in the field, 
the ball of soil should be sufficiently broken up so that it will incorporate 
readily with and absorb moisture promptly from the surrounding mass of soil. 
This will not be the case if the lialls have become root-bound and hardened 
and are ])lanted in the field without being broken up or mellowed. 

The time at which young plants should be put into the field varies with 
different localities. In the Southern States they might be set out as early 
as the 1st of March. At Queens we have occasionally set out plants as early 
as the middle to the 25th of March. Farther north, in Canada or the State 
of Maine, the time may rim well into the ist of June before planting out 
is done. ^\s a general rule, throughout most sections of the country the 
1st to the 15th of May should see the largest proportion of the young stock 
planted in the fieUl. But in localities subject to severe late frosts the operation 
may well be deferred until after the danger from frost is over. This brings 
up the mooted question: "Are properly hardened carnation plants injured 
by frosts when freshl}- planted in the spring?" Manv growers hold that they 
are not. but I am of the opinion that the present race of carnations, which 
are purely the product of hybridization under glass, and which are grown 
under glass at all times excepting when planted in the fields in the summer 
time, arc injured by frosts, and I hold that no young carnation plant des- 
tined f(ir winter blooming should be put into the field before all danger from 
serious frosts is past. 

We have occasionally taken late rooted cuttings from the sand and 
planted them in the field during the latter part of May and early part of 
June with considerable success. These cuttings, if planted out in freshly 

92 



Treatment of Young Carnation Stock 

worked, moist, mellow soil just before a shower, frequently commence 
growth at once, and in many instances have made practically as good plants 
as stock struck three weeks earlier and planted out at the same time from 
two-inch pots. But this will not hold as a rule. Young stock planted from 
the sand into the field is more apt to be injured by either droughts or ex- 
cessively heavy rains than stock from pots, so that while we occasionally 
do this in order to save time and labor it cannot be recommended as a gen- 
eral practice. 




A New York Wholesale Florist's Window 



CHAPTER VIII 

Field Culture of Carnations 

AT the present time probably 95 per cent, eif the carnations grown com- 
nierciall}- are planted in the field, cultivated during spring and 
summer, and allowed to make their growth before being planted on 
the greenhouse benches, where they mature their crop of flowers. The 
preparation of soil for field ])lanting is described in Chapter I\'. All carna- 
tion i)lants should be planted in the field as early in the spring as the soil 
can be gotten into proper shape, and danger from frosts is over. This period 
ranges from the ist of April to the middle of May, according to locality and 
latitude. In this latitude, we freciuently are able to plant by the middle of 
April, sometimes as early as April i, and aim to have the bulk of the 
planting done by the loth to the 15th of May, although many of the later 
struck cuttings are planted as late as the ist of June. These late cuttings 
make vigorous plants, that produce fine flowers ; but such plants do not bloom 
as freely early in the season as the earlier rooted stock. 

Assuming that the soil has been properly ploughed and harrowed, and 
finally finished with a pulverizing harrow so that it is in a smooth, mellow 
condition, the first step to determine will be the distance apart to plant. If 
for hand cultivation, the plants should be placed in rows not less than fifteen 
to eighteen inches apart, and not less than ten to twelve inches apart in the 
row. These rows should be laid out with a line, as it is essential that they 
be straight, in order to enable the hand cultivator to be used to advantage in 
after cultivation. 

In planting for hand cultixatirm, a Firefly Hand Plow may be used to 
advantage, cutting a shallow drill not more than one and a half to two inches 
deep, which will be a sufficient depth to nicely hold the ball of roots of the 
young plants. The ground should be very soft and mellow when planting, 
and care should be exercised not to press the plants down too deep. The 
ball should be gently firmed in the soil, and loose earth drawn to the neck of 
the plant, so as to leave the top of the soil thoroughly mellow. The plant 
should not be set any deeper in the soil than it has been in the pot ; that is. 
the neck of the plant should be just at the surface, or not to exceed an eighth 

94 



Field Culture of Carnations 

to a quarter of an inch below the surface of the soil. Too many planters 
carelessly push the plant down into the soil until the neck is from three- 
quarters to an inch below the surface. This careless method should not be 
tolerated by a careful grower, as deep planting of this character has a ten- 
dency to check the growth of the plants and to cause them to rot off at the 
neck, especially if planting is followed by an extended period of cold, wet 
weather. If a small number of plants is to be set, it is a comparatively easy 
matter to plant them at the proper time, without much planning ahead. But 
where thousands are to be planted, and the number of hands is limited, the 
work must be well planned, and carried forward with method and rapidity, 
in order to get the stock into the field at the proper season. 

Previous to turning the young plants out of the pots, they should be 
given a thorough watering, so that the balls of soil will be well moistened 
throughout ; but these should not be in a muddy condition. If the plants 
are set with the balls in a muddy condition, they will dry out hard, and be- 
come brick-like, and, to a certain extent, impervious to moisture. I have 
seen plants dug from the field in the fall, where the balls of soil were so 
hard that the roots were actually choked, and had made comparatively little 
growth ; whereas, if the soil had been of the proper degree of moisture, and 
the balls slightly broken up before planting, this condition would not have 
occurred, and the plants would have made normal growth. 

As the plants are turned out of the pots they ghould be placed in flats, 
each variety by itself, with a label in every flat, in order to prevent mixing 
the varieties when dropping the plants. As this work is sometimes done 
previous to the time of planting, these flats should be set in a cool shed, out of 
draughts, where the plants will not wilt, and where the soil will not be dried 
out : and the plants should not be carried into the field much faster than it 
is possible to set them. If it should be necessary to carry any number of 
plants into the field at one time, they should be placed under shade, or cov- 
ered with a light cloth of some kind, in order to protect them from the wind 
and sun ; a large sheet made of plant-protecting cloth being very useful for 
this purpose. 

In preparing the field for horse culture, after the ground has been thnr- 
oughlv pulverized, and is in a proper mellow condition, a horse marker, 
set so as to make drills thirty inches apart and five to six inches deep, is used 
to mark off the ground. The fertilizer, if chemical fertilizers are to be 
used, is then sown with a machine, which thoroughly mixes the fertilizer 
with the soil in the drill, and immediately covered in by a coverer. which 
throws the soil into the drill and raises a ridge about six inches high. 

95 



Field Culture of Carnations 

A man is then sent i:i\cr the ground with an or(Hnary garden rake, to 
draw down these ridges until they are ((uite tlat. or alioul ten inches across 
the tO]), which stands aljout an inch aljuve the natural surface of the soil. 
This ridging u\>. and raking down the ridges, makes the soil very mellow, 
and puts it in a condition that renders the operation of planting easy. 

A planting gang of nine men and boys may be divided up in about the 
following proportions : four planters, two droppers, one man to prepare the 
ridges ahead, and two men to bring the plants into the field, and return the 
empty flats to the houses (a light one-horse wagon, such as any florist has, 
being used for this purpose). Such a crew will set 15,000 to 16,000 plants a 
day, provided the plants are turned out ahead and delivered to the field as 
fast as the planters can handle them. 

Bens do the dropping, and each dropper takes a flat and proceeds ahead 
of the planter to lay the plants upon the ridge at the proper distance apart 
for setting. As he lays down each plant, he gives it a slight squeeze, so as 
to break up the ball of soil. This breaking up of the soil ball is essential, 
as, if not slightly crushed, it may become hardened and impervious to water, 
and the growth of the plant be thereby seriously interfered with : but if the 
ball is crushed when set in the ground, it combines with the field soil, and 
will take up as much moisture as is absorbed by the adjoining soil, and growth 
will commence normally. In setting the plant, a small hole, about one and a 
half inches deep, is made in the top and along the center of the ridge, and 
the ball of the plant is placed firmly in this hole. It is further firmed in the 
soil by pressing upon it with the fingers, and the operation is completed by 
gathering a little fine, loose soil around, over the ball, sufficient to form a 
light mulch at the neck of the plant. I will here repeat that the neck of the 
plant should be at the surface of the groimd, certainly not more than a 
quarter of an inch below, and should not be jammed down three-quarters of 
an inch to an inch below. Too deep planting is deleterious, often causing 
stem rot, and also checking the growth of the plant. 

.-V smart bii\' will frequentlv drop plants as fast as two men can set them; 
but frequently it will take two droppers to three planters ; and if a boy is slow, 
one dropper to each planter may be required. I will repeat, that great cau- 
tion should be used to the end that the plants are not allowed to lie around 
in the flats in the sun, the balls permitted to become dried out anil hard, or 
the plants wilted. It will be necessary to turn out a considerable number of 
plants before they are carried into the field, in order to keep the planters 
busy ; but it will be easy to keep these plants in proper condition by plac- 
ing them in a cool shed, or covering them with moist paper, or a protecting 

96 



Field Culture of Carnations 

sheet. The plants should be carried from the shed, or greenhouse, to the 
field about as fast as the droppers can handle them, and the planters should 
keep close to the dropper with their work, so that no plants may lie exposed 
to the sun, to wither. 

Care should always be taken to plant carnations in freshly cultivated 
soil, which should be in such a condition that it will firm down nicely around 
the roots. Planting should not be done in soil that is very dry, nor should 
it be done when the soil is pasty, or in a muddy condition. If the soil is in 
proper condition, and the plants are set without wilting, they will push forth 
their feeding roots within a day or two, and growth will commence promptly ; 
but if the soil lacks the proper degree of moisture, or if it be too wet, or in 
a sodden, muddy condition, or if the plants are allowed to wither and dry 
out before they are planted, the growth will be checked, and the future con- 
dition of the plant will be, to that extent, impaired. 

It may be repeated here, that nothing is gained by checking a carnation 
plant ; on the contrary, a distinct damage results. If the best results are to 
be attained, a vigorous, healthy, normal growth must be maintained through- 
out the life of the plant. 

Cultivation After Planting 

In order to obtain the best results in growing carnations in the field, 
thorough and frequent cultivation must be the rule. If planted in beds, the 
wheel hoe should be run over these within a few days after the plants are 
set out, certainly immediately after the first rain, as soon as the ground is 
fit to work. This operation should be followed up by hand hoeing and weed- 
ing, and the soil around the neck of the plant should be pulverized so that 
the plant shall not be buried, or its growth impaired, by the baking of the 
soil about the neck, or over its roots. The wheel hoe should be run over 
the beds after each rain. Hand hoeing should be frequent enough to keep 
the soil mellow, and to prevent baking. Cultivation should be for the pur- 
pose of keeping the soil in a mellow condition, especially the top soil. Some 
cultivate, or hoe, only when they see weeds springing up. The best growers, 
however, do not wait for weeds to appear, but keep the surface of the soil 
constantly stirred and pulverized. 

There is a great advantage in having the surface of the soil pulverized 
and in a mellow condition ; as such soil dries out and forms a mulch over 
the carnation roots, preventing, to a great extent, the evaporation of moisture, 
and largely confining such evaporation to the moisture that transpires from 
the foliage, besides conserving the moisture during dry seasons ; whereas, 

7 97 



Field Culture of Carnations 

if the soil is allowed to become hardened, evaporation proceeds very rapidly 
from the soil itself, and plants will soon suffer from drought. 

Where plants are set in rove's, for the purpose of horse cultivation, the 
cultivator should be run between the rows within a few days after the plants 
are set. This should be followed up by hand hoeing and weeding, and pul- 
verizing the soil around the neck of the plant. The horse hoe should be 
used at least once in every two weeks, and, as a rule, after each rain ; while 
hand hoeing should be practiced frequently enough to keep the soil pulver- 
ized. No weeds should be allowed to grow to any size in the carnation field, 
but frequent cultivation should be attended to, so as to effectually keep down 
all weeds. 

Cultivation around the plants should be shallow and not deep. The horse 
hoe should be one with small teeth, that will pulverize the soil finely, but will 
not run sufficiently deep to tear up or destroy the roots. The workmen should 
be watched when hoeing, and carefully instructed not to injure the neck 
of the plant by striking it with the hoe, nor to injure the roots of the plant 
by digging too deeply into the soil. Half an inch to an inch in depth is suffi- 
cient stirring for carnations. 

There is quite a tlivergence of opinion among different growers as to 
the advantages of horse cultivation compared with hand cultivation. I have 
not been able to see any great difference between the two methods, except- 
ing, possibly, a slight gain in economy with horse cultivation where an abund- 
ance of land is available. So far as I have observed, just as good carnation 
plants may be grown by cither method, and a selection between the two sim- 
mers itself down to the (iiiantity of ground the grower may have available. If 
he is limited as to land area, he should plant in beds, and practice hand 
cultivation : but if an abundance of land is available, he can well afford to 
practice horse cultivation. 

Stopping Carnations in the Field 

As soon as the carnation plants have become thoroughly establisheil. 
and have commenced their season's growth, flowering shoots will be pushed 
up, and these will soon form buds and blooms unless broken off". If it is 
desired to have crops of flowers during the winter time, it will be necessary 
to cut off these flowering shoots as fast as the buds have become well formed. 
It is desirable not to break off these shoots until the bud is in the condition 
named. Too close stopping is objectionable, as it has a tendency to dwarf 
the plant too much, retard the crop of bloom, and, if followed very closely, 
at wide periods may cause the plant to bloom in crops instead of bringing 



Field Culture of Carnations 

about a continuous blooming throughout the season. In order to secure a 
continuous crop of flowers during the winter season, the field should be gone 
over every two weeks, and preferably every week, and all shoots that are in 
proper condition for stopping broken off. 

If the field stopping of carnations is followed up persistently, and the 




a — Plant stopped once and ready lur second stopping,- cat slioots at \ 
b — Plant stopped twice and ready for third stopping ; cut shoots at \ 
c — Plant coming into bloom after third stopping 



shoots cut back at the proper period, and when in the proper condition, this 

will insure the continuous blooming of most varieties throughout the winter. 

As a rule, all cutting back in the field should cease by the first to the 

L.crc. 

99 



Field Culture of Carnations 

middle of August, according to the variety. Many carnations siiould not he 
cut back after the ist of August, and some varieties must not be cut back 
after the middle of July, otherwise the crop of bloom may be deferred into 
midwinter, and sometimes into the following spring. There are, however, 
a few kinds that may be cut back as late as the ist of September without 
interfering with their blooming at or before Christmas time. Each variety 
must be carefully studied, and the season at which cutting back is to cease 
must be ascertained by practical experience. 

By properly following up the cutting back of any variety of carnation. 
coupled with planting it upon the benches at its proper season, most mod- 
ern carnations can be induced to produce a crop of flowers that will last, to 
a large extent, throughout the winter season. But if this cutting back is 
not correctly done, or is not done at the right time, the winter blooming 
may be seriously interfered with, and the crop of flowers obtained at a period 
when they are least wanted. 

Before closing this chapter, I would impress upon my readers the im- 
portance of thorough, clean cultivation during the summer time, and of keep- 
ing the plants in a healthy, continuous growing condition. The success of 
securing a continuous crop of flowers during the winter will depend largely 
upon the condition of the plants when planted upon the benches. If the 
])lant has made a strong, vigorous growth during the summer time, it will 
have stored up a large quantity of energy which can be successfully called 
u])on during the winter time. But if the plant has not been properly treated, 
if it has been subjected to serious checks, such as droughts, lack of proper 
cultivation, or grown among rank weeds, where it has had to struggle for 
an existence, its constitution will be impaired, and it will enter the trying 
season of winter with strength insufficient to respond to the draughts which 
are made upon it in forcing. It may be laid down as a rule, that first-class 
results can only be expected from first-class plants ; and first-class plants can 
only be produced by thorough, proper attention to all of the details con- 
nected with the growing of the plants, from the selection of the wood for 
propagating purposes, down to the time that the plants are placed upon 
the bench, as well as after being planted in the greenhouses. This thorough 
care as to the needs of the plant must not be at any time withheld. Many 
growers will tell you that they have good or poor luck growing carnations. I 
am not such a believer in the theory of luck asmany,being rather of the opinion 
that this element of luck is largely controlled by the grower himself. If he 



Field Culture of Carnations 

neglects to give his carnations proper care at some particular time, it is 
easier to charge the resulting failure to "luck" than it is to blame himself 
for such failure. Success can only be secured by thorough, careful, con- 
stant attention to detail. Good luck smiles upon the careful, thorough grower. 
Bad luck is the Nemesis of the careless cultivator. 




Enchantress (P. Fisher) 



CHAPTER IX 

Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 

THE proper tinie fur lifting carnations from tlie field, and planting under 
glass, will vary with the varying climatic conditions in different 
localities, so that each individual grower must decide by practical ex- 
periment at which time the work can be most favorably done in his locality. 
In some places lifting is commenced as earlv as the middle of July, while in 
other sections, according to the varying climatic conditions existing through- 
out the United States, the operation is extended to as late as October i. In 
the latitude of New York, from the loth of July to the ist of September 
may be taken as the average time for lifting, and planting under glass. 

Filling the Benches 

Granted that the soil heaps arc in pro]U'r condition (see Preparation of 
Soil, Chapter IX.), it will be of considerable benefit to turn over the soil once 
again, about a week or ten days before the benches are to be filled. Where a 
small area of bench surface is to be filled, the soil may be carried into the 
greenhouses in light baskets, or small boxes fitted with handles. But where 
the quantity of soil to be handled is large, much time will be gained by using 
larger boxes or baskets, or wheelbarrows. 

Planks are rigged up, running from the soil heap through the door at 
the end of the houses, and on to and down the center bench. A parallel plank 
is laid about every twenty-five feet, to form a turn-out, so that the wheelers 
may pass each other. The accompanying illustration of filling the green- 
houses shows the method of arranging the planking on the benches. Three 
to four men are employed with wheelbarrows, and one man is stationed at 
the soil pile with a shovel, to help fill the emptv barrows as they return. An 
additional shovel enables each wheeler to assist iii filling his own barrow. 
Two men are placed at the bench where the soil is being dumped. Each 
of these men has a shovel, and as fast as dumped the soil is turned over and 
thrown back, filling the bench evenly and firming down the soil, so that 
there will be no holes, or soft spots, and the soil will be of an even density 



Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 

throughout the bench. The firming is of considerable importance, particularly 
in the case of light soils, especially when it comes to watering, whether by 
the surface or sub-irrigation system. If the soil is of the same degree of 
compactness throughout, it will take up the moisture equally, and there will 
be neither sodden nor dried-out spots in the bench as would result were some 




Soil Sterilizer in Position — Filling the Bench 

spots dense enough to hold the moisture and became sour and sodden, and 
others so loose and open as to dry out rapidly, causing the contiguous plants 
to suffer from drought. With light soils it is often necessary to get upon the 
bench and tramp down the soil, in order to have it sufficiently compact, and of 
an even consistency throughout. 



103 



Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 
Marking Out the Bench 

When the soil is ready for planting, it should be in a moist, mellow 
condition, so that the planter can easily dig holes in it with his hand. In 
preparing to plant, regular lines, running the full length of the bench, and 
spaced at even distances should be marked. Cross lines should also be 
marked, so that when setting out, the planter will only need to set plants 
at the intersection of the different lines in order to have all stand in straight 
rows, evenly spaced. This is important and necessary, so as to enable one 
to properly apply the wire supports when the plants push up their bloom- 
ing shoots. 

The benches thoroughly prepared, and the rows all marked out. and ready 
for setting, the next step to be considered will be 

Digging the Plants from the Field 

This work should be very carefully done by a workman of sufficient 
intelligence and knowledge of carnations, to enable him to select plants of 
even size and growth, so that when the benches are filled they will produce 
an equal crop throughout the entire surface. In digging the plants, all 
the roots possible must be preserved, especially the smaller fibrous roots. 
The best tool with which to dig carnations is the ordinary digging fork 
having four or five flat tines about three-quarters of an inch wide, these tines 
standing one and a half to two inches apart. 

In selecting plants it is well to go over the field and select all of the 
larger ones that run of an even size ; then go over the field a second time 
and select a size smaller, which will still fill the spaces fully. If you have 
not sufficient plants of these two sizes to fill the entire bench surface, it will 
then be necessary to go over the field a third time and select plants which 
can be doubled up : that is, two plants set as one. By such selection and 
doubling up of plants an even stand of bloom may be secured throughout the 
entire house. 

After the plants are dug, they should be taken immediately under shel- 
ter, and not allowed to become wilted or the roots permitted to dry out, before 
planting. Too many plants must not be taken up ahead, as it is injurious 
to have plants lying around with the roots exposed to the wind, sun, or dry- 
ing air. But the plants should be dug from the field and carried into the 
houses only as fast as they can be planted, and no great accumulation of dug 
plants should be allowed, either in the field or the greenhouses, unless it 
should be necessary to dig a large number prior to a rainy-day planting. If 



Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 

plants are allowed to stand around any length of time, or if shipped in from 
a distance, it is well to freshen them up by dipping the roots in water, and 
to moisten the tops, to prevent wilting. 

In planting under glass, the same care not to plant too deep must be 
used as in planting in the field. The neck of the plant should stand just 
at the surface of the soil, or not to exceed a quarter of an inch below. Make 




The same Carnation Field — Photograpli taken ten minutes after digging 
was commenced 

a shallow, saucer-shaped hole in the soil, at the intersection of the marks, of 
sufficient depth to nicely hold the entire root system ; then arrange the roots 
therein in the same relative position that they occupied when growing in 
the field, spreading them out in a natural manner. Under no circumstances 
should the roots be rolled up, or twisted into a ball or wad. Place the plant 
upright, holding it with the left hand, and with the right hand work the 

107 



Liftin<;- and Planting Carnations from the Field 

soil around the roots until they are completely covered ; then thoroughly firm 
the soil upon the roots, finishing up with a light pounding with the fist to com- 
pact the soil ; at the end, working loose soil all around over the top, so that 
while the roots of the plant are so firmly held by the compact soil under- 
neath that the plant will stand erect, the surface is mellow, and in a condition 
to form a dry mulch, which has been described in Field Culture. (See 
Chapter VIII.') 

After the plants have been set. the next step is 

Watering 

Usually there are two planters in a gang, one at each side <>i the bench ; 
and as soon as twenty to twenty-five feet of bench has been planted, the head 
planter takes the hose, and with a fine rose syringes the bench lightly and 
evenly, sufficient to wet the entire surface. Some growers recommend soak- 
ing the bench through at once, pouring on the water so liberally that it will 
run through the soil and drip from the bottom of the bench. This method 
we have not found advantageous, but prefer to give several light waterings 
during the course of the day until the moisture has penetrated through to the 
bottom of the bench, and the soil has become moistened throughout in a 
natural manner, similar to what occurs in the open ground when a gentle 
rain is falling. 

Any close observer of soils will have noted that in seasons where very 
rapid, heavy rainfalls occur, when the ground becomes compacted and satu- 
rated for a considerable length of time, many kinds of vegetation suffer, and 
many varieties of plants are attacked with the species of fungus known as 
stem rot. For instance, cabbages and cauliflowers will rot ofif at the neck and 
large areas of these plants be destroyed. Muskmelons, squashes and pump- 
kins will rot before they are ripened. Many hardy plants, such as Sweet 
William, Goldenrod, Perennial Phlox, and even herbaceous Peonies, will rot 
ofif at the surface of the soil. Carnations are also seriously aflfected in a 
similar manner. The rotting of plants, under such conditions, should give 
the carnation grower a broad hint as to the undesirability of soaking his 
benches until they are in a muddy, saturated condition. 

Many growers will probably have observed that when carnations are 
planted in the field, and the planting is followed by a gentle rain, extending 
perhaps over night, and falling so gently as not to compact the soil, but 
simply to moisten it throughout, the plants start immediately into growth 
without noticeable check. But where such planting out is followed by heavy 
beating showers, the plants are injured by the excess of moisture and the 

io8 



Lifting and Planting Carnations from the Field 

packing of the soil about the roots and neck. Carnation soil should be at all 
times in just a nicely moistened condition; that is to say, there should be 
sufficient moisture in the soil to keep the plants plump, and in vigorous grow- 
• ing condition ; but there should never be an excess of water to drown out 
the soil or to cause it to become sodden or sour. In order to get the best 
possible results, what might be termed the sanitary condition of the soil 
should be thoroughlv looked after and maintained. 




Scttiii" Carnation Plants on the Bench 



Shading the Carnation Houses Before Planting 

One of the necessary preliminary steps in lifting and planting in is 
shading, as it is desirable to protect the freshly planted plants from the rays 
of the sun until they have had time to strike root and commence growth ; 
otherwise the plants will be seriously checked by wilting. A too dense shade, 
however, is not desirable, as that has a tendency to soften the plant and to 
cause it to receive an additional check when the shade is removed. Prob- 
ably the best shade is one that can be easily removed during the dark weather, 
as the shade should not be kept on too long. When the weather is cloudy, 
and the sun is not shining, no shade will be necessary ; but as soon as the sun 

109 



Lifting and Planting Carnations from tlie Field 

comes out bright, shading again becomes desirable. One method of shading 
is to mix fire clay, or any clean clay, to the consistency of thin paint, and 
spray this over the glass with an ordinary greenhouse syringe. This mixture 
is easily removed by the first rainstorm, and may be quickly re-applied, 
if desired. To those who wish a comparatively permanent shade, the glass 
may be striped, using a mixture of white lead and kerosene oil, or naphtha, 
prepared as follows : Two pounds in weight of kerosene to one pound of 
white lead. Put on the glass in stripes three to five inches wide, leaving from 
two to three inches of clear glass between each stripe and the sash bars ; 
this provides a very nice shade, which may be left upon the houses a con- 
siderable length of time. It also can be taken ofif easily by rubbing with a 
dry, stiff brush. As soon as the plants are sufficiently well established to 
begin active growth, the shade should be gradually removed. The glass 
should be in a clean, bright condition early in the month of October, and abso- 
lutely clean by the ist of November, excepting, possibly, in the Southern 
States, where the sun is still sufficiently hot at that season to injure the plants 
or cause the blooms to fade. 




Viohi Allen 



CHAPTER X 

Treatment After Benching and Until the Plants Are 
in Bloom 

FOR the first week after planting, ventilation should be given sparingly, 
and with judgment; keeping a moist atmosphere, and avoiding drying 
draughts. A gentle syringing once or twice a day, just sufficient to 
freshen up the foliage and prevent wilting, should be applied, but no heavy 
wetting of the soil should be done until root action has been established. As 
root action sets in, and the foliage straightens up, and becomes plump and 
crisp, ventilation should be increased and watering attended to as the plant 
needs moisture. 

When the plants have become well established, and the bench soils fairly 
well filled with roots, the plants must be straightened up so that all of the 
shoots will stand erect. About this time weeds will begin to sprout, and the 
surface soil should be lightly cultivated or scratched over, and all weeds 
removed and destroyed. 

Staking or Wiring 

As soon as the growths commence straightening out, or elongating to- 
ward the bud formation, it is important that support be given promptly. This 
should be done before the blooming shoots start to run up. I would impress 
upon the reader the importance of providing support for his carnations early, 
otherwise the growths, if left for any considerable time without support, will 
run up, lop over, and fall down, causing the stems to become crooked, which 
is detrimental to the flower, injuring its usefulness and reducing its selling 
value. If the young plants are properly supported, and the body of the plants 
held erect, they will grow straight and sturdy, producing long, straight- 
stemmed blooms ; but if not so supported, and allowed to fall down and be- 
come crooked, the entire plant will grow out of shape, and it can seldom 
be restored to as good condition as when properly supported from the start. 

There are a number of methods of supporting carnations, each of which 
has its votaries, who prefer it to others in use ; but all of these methods may 



Treatment After Benchinjj: 



be divided into three general classes. The first, which may be called staking, 
consists of driving a stout wooden stake alongside of the plant, which is then 
supported by being tied to this stake, either with raffia or twine. This system 













* 



4 2 ■» %. J 




vvak^'M 






lllustraliiiL; Wire l\iiiL; Siipj/orts 

of support is, however, seldom used at the present time. The methods now 
most employed are known as wiring. That most generally in force is a 
round-wire support upon legs ; it is made in several forms, and offered for 
sale by various manufacturers. Several of these forms have been patented, 



Treatment After Benching 

and most of them may be purchased at prices ranging from $12 to $25 per 
thousand. They are made of strong, galvanized wire, and will last for a 
number of years. 

The second method of wiring consists of stretching wires over the bench, 
as is shown in the engraving. These wires are extended tightly the full 
length, and fastened to a framework upon each end of the bench. 




Illustrating End Supports of Iron for Stretching Wire 



Supports are provided at about every twenty-five feet throughout the 
length of the bench, and stay laths are put crosswise every ten feet in order to 
hold the wires a proper distance apart. A wire is stretched on the outside of 
the row of plants and also between each row. Ordinary twine is used for 
the cross tying. A man stands on each side of the bench, and the two tie 
the strings across, taking a wrap and half hitch around each wire so that 

8 113 



Treatment After Benching 

the strings will not slip up and down the wires. Two strings are used be- 
tween each plant, so that when the wiring and tying is finished each plant 
is held by itself in a square composed of wire and twine. This wiring is 
put on in several tiers, from two to three being used with average grow- 
ing plants. 

A combination of the two systems just described has been adopted by 
many of the most successful growers, and it seems to be nearly a perfect 
system of supporting carnation plants. A round wire circle having three 
legs is used to support the base of the plant. It stands about three inches 
above the ground, and holds the base of the plant firmly. Six inches above 
this, and then again six inches above that, and still ten to twelve inches 
higher, if necessary, the wire and string supports are stretched, so that the 
carnation plants are supported their entire height, and will grow perfectly 
erect in the little squares provided for them. It is not necessary nor desirable 
to put on all of these supports at one time, but the wiring should be added as 
the plants grow upward and need support. However, these supports must 
be put on at the proper time, as it is important to keep the young shoots con- 
stantly growing upward and straight, and not allow them to fall over and 
lop about. 

Another system of supporting carnations is the V-shaped wire netting, 
supplemented by stretching the wires and string overhead. This method is 
shown in the adjoining cut, which illustrates it very well. This is an 
excellent method of supporting carnations, and has the advantage of per- 
mitting the plantsman to work between the rows without striking or injuring 
the plants. With varieties that are very heavy growers, however, it has a 
tendency to compress the plants a little too much at the base. The netting 
is also expensive, and since the advance in the cost of wire it has been 
abandoned, both on the score of expense, and also for the reason that the 
system of round wire supports, combined with wires and string, is consid- 
ered better. An\one, however, having the netting on hand would be able 
by it to support his carnations to good advantage. 

Cultivation of Soil on Benches 

As the season advances weeds will grow up among the plants, and with 
surface-watered benches the surface of the soil will become packed and 
hard. These weeds should be removed when young, and the hard crust be 
broken up by very shallow cultivation. Under no circumstances should 
cultivation be deep, as the root system of a plant extends to the surface of 



Treatment After Benching 

the soil, and if deep cultivation is practiced the plants will be injured by 
the disturbance of the feeding roots. 

As soon as the condition of the plants shows that a considerable portion 
of the plant food contained in the soil is assimilated, light top dressings of 
decomposed manure, or sheep manure, bone dust, soot, etc., may be used ; but 
the plants must be allowed to become thoroughly established and in full, vig- 
orous growth, with normal root systems, before such applications are given ; 
and when feeding begins, the food should be introduced into the soil no 
more rapidly than the plants consume it. 




Bench of Carnation William Scott — Illustrating supporting with wire netting 
and wire and string 



Properly prepared soil will be rich enough to carry the plants from six 
weeks to two months after growth has commenced, without feeding. Under 
ordinary culture, if plants grow vigorously, the soil will be exhausted to some 
extent at the end of two and a half or three months, unless it has been re- 
newed by feeding or mulching. In such case a strong top dressing will be 
required to keep the plants in proper growing condition and to supply them 



Treatment After Benching 

with the necessary sustenance to maintain their growth and niatnre the crop 
of flowers. 

The most critical time in carnation culture is during the fall and early 
winter months, when the natural tendency of plants is to cease growth and 
to rest. During this period the greatest care must be taken in watering the 
benches. The soil should be kept in a healthy, moist condition, but at no 
period should it be over-watered. It may dry out at times so that the surface 
appears quite dry, but this condition should not be allowed to continue any 
great length of time, and under no circumstances should the soil be permitted 
to become dry to the bottom of the bench, nor the plants to become wilted 
or flagged from want of moisture. 

Ample provision should be made for draining all carnation benches, 
whether the style of bench used be sub-irrigation or surface watering. If the 
benches are not properly drained, serious damage may occur in case of over- 
watering. Sometimes, when a carnation bench has been thoroughly watered, 
after having been allowed to dry out a little to sweeten it up, the grower is 
confronted with a spell of dark, stormy, chilly weather, and if he has no 
means whereby to dry out this soil and remove the surplus moisture, his 
plants will receive a check that will be decidedly harmful, and reduce the 
value of his crop. Probably the most important part of the care of carna- 
tions consists in proper watering in connection with proper ventilation. At 
this period of the year the weather is constantly growing colder ; long spells 
of dull, dismal weather will occur, and the grower will be constantly taxed 
in order to keep his plants from receiving damage. A grower who thor- 
oughly understands the watering of his plants, and who can do the work 
properly, and with judgment, has mastered one of the most important secrets 
of carnation growing. The art of watering plants is purely a matter of per- 
sonal judgment. No definite rules for it can be laid down, as conditions 
are constantly varying ; the requirements of the soil under treatment must 
be ascertained by the man who has immediate charge of the growing plants, 
and this can be done only by practical experience and daily observation. 

Disbudding 

After the buds have set, and side shoots begin to elongate, disbudding 
should conjmence promptly. All buds, except the terminal, should be re- 
moved, unless that bud is deformed, in which case the terminal should be 
taken out and the strongest lateral from the top of the shoot allowed to grow. 
Disbudding should be commenced as soon as the first buds are fairly well 
formed, and when the laterals are sufficiently well advanced, so that they 

ii6 



Treatment After Benching 

can be seized between the thumb and first finger and pinched out. Unless 
disbudding is done before the lateral buds have swelled to any great extent, 
it will be of little use, as the laterals will have taken some considerable strength 
from the terminal bud, in which case the bud left will not produce as large 
a flower as if the laterals had been removed early. 

The benches should be gone over at least once in two weeks and the weak 
shoots cut back ; that is, those shoots that show a tendency to produce small, 
weak-necked flowers. The object of this is to throw the entire strength of 
the plant into strong, vigorous growth, to the end that a better average quality 
of blooms may be secured. 

The time to commence cutting the flowers varies greatly with the varieties 
grown, as well as with the season at which they were planted inside. In 
case the planting has been done in July, a few flowers may be left on the 
plants to be cut in the early part of September. But more profitable results 
may sometimes be obtained by cutting back the earliest flowers, and allowing 
new growths to come, which will produce blooms for November, December, 
and later cutting. 




Prosperity 



CHAPTER XI 

Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

THE chief value of any flower consists in its being placed in the hands of 
the consumer in a fresh, lasting condition. This can only be accom- 
])lished by having the blooms properly handled from the time they are 
cut from the plant until delivered into the hands of the consuming purchaser. 
In order to accomplish this the flowers must be picked when in the proper con- 
dition, the stems immediately plunged in water, and the receptacle placed in 
a cooling room, which should be scrupulously clean, and in which the tem- 
perature is uniformly carried at from 45 to 55 degrees. The vases con- 
taining the flowers should be of sufficient size to avoid crowding or jam- 
ming the blooms together, and be deep enough to hold at least two-thirds to 
three-fourths of the entire length of the stem. These vases should be kept 
perfectly clean, and should be daily filled with fresh water. The temperature 
of the water in the vases may be from 10 to 15 degrees higher than the 
temperature of the room at the time the flowers are put into the vase. While 
the temperature of the cooling room should be from 48 to 50 degrees, we have 
found it beneficial when both the water and cool room stood at about 55 to 60 
degrees when the flowers were put in, and when the morning pick was finished 
the room gradually cooled down to 48 to 50 degrees. The water, room 
and iiowers cooling down together, avoids the sudden chilling of the blooms, 
a condition which sometimes causes them to wither, or, as the florist terms 
it, "go to sleep." 

It is more advantageous to pick carnations in the morning, while the 
temperature is low, and the flowers plump and firm, than to wait until the 
sun has become sufficiently powerful to cause the blooms to flag. The daily 
picking of flowers should be finished by ten o'clock in the morning, and all 
blooms intended for shipment the following day should be in water by 
that time. 

There is some difiference of opinion, as well as in practice, regarding the 
condition in which the bloom should be when cut. Some of our best grow- 
ers allow the flowers to stay upon the plant until fully developed, or, as they 
term it, finished. Our practice has been to pick the flower when about three- 

118 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

quarters developed. This point can be generally ascertained by obser^■ing the 
condition of the pistils. When the pistils have grown so that they have 
reached an even length with the center petals, the flower is, in the case of 
most varieties, about two-thirds to three-quarters full blown ; and if picked at 
that time and placed in water, the bloom will continue to develop for several 




A Wholesale Grower's Flower Room 



days ; whereas, if allowed to stand upon the plant until fully developed — that 
is, when the pistils have completed their growth, and are ready for fertiliza- 
tion — the flower has reached its full size, and there will be no further ten- 
dency to grow. On the contrary, the tendency to wither and go to sleep will 



119 



Picking, Packing and Shippin;^ Carnation Flowers 

be much stronger than with the flower not fully developed, and the danger 
of fertilization will be also much greater. 

In cutting, a sharp knife should be used, and the stem should be cut in 
such a manner as not to place any strain upon the roots of the plant, as this 
has a tendency to break the fine rootlets free from the soil and to injure the 
plant's growth and blooming. If the flowers are broken ofif, the pressure on 
the stem should be downward, and not with an upward pull, which will start 
the plant from the soil. 

As fast as picked the flowers should be taken into the flower room and 
placed immediately in the vases, which should have been prepared in advance 
and filled with pure, clean water. As soon as the picking is finished, the 
cleaning and preparing and grading of the flowers should be done. It is 
our practice to remove all the foliage, for about six inches, from the lower 
part of the stem, and to take off the cuttings while sorting the flowers into 
the different grades. 

For the New York market three grades are made, namely, fancies, extras 
and firsts. The fancies are all perfect blooms, running from 2^ to 3^ 
inches in diameter, with straight stems from 16 to 24 inches and upward in 
length. The extras are composed of flowers which, while being perfect, are 
either smaller or the stems below the length required for fancies. The firsts 
comprise all merchantable blooms that will not pass as extras. 

In grading flowers it is important that the grade should be uniform ; 
that is to say, a fancy should be fancy at all seasons of the }-ear. In the early 
part of the season, when the plants first commence blooming, there are com- 
paratively few flowers that will grade as strictly fancy. Many of the first 
blooms will come imperfect in one or more respects, and the stems will gen- 
erally be below the necessary length ; so that at this part of the season but 
two grades are sent to market — the extras and firsts — the fancy grades 
usually putting in an appearance from a month to six weeks later. 

After the stems have been properly cleaned, and the flowers separated 
into the different grades, the blooms are divided into bundles of twenty-five, 
the stems of each bundle being bound with a small rubber band. A tag upon 
which the name, the grade, and the number of flowers are written, is fast- 
ened to each bundle. From two to four of these bundles are put into a vase, 
according to the size of the blooms, as well as that of the vase, and these are 
placed upon a table, in a cool room, with sufficient space around each vase 
to admit of a free circulation of air about the flowers and to prevent them 
from rubbing together and bruising. The blooms remain in this cool room 
imtil the following morning, at which time thev will have absorbed sufficient 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

water to have stiffened the foliage and petals, so that the blooms are fre- 
quently a third larger than when first put in the cool room. At this time 
they will be ready for shipment, and if properly packed and handled, will 
reach the stores in the best possible condition. 

One of the things to be avoided in picking carnations is to allow the 
flowers to lie around until they have become slightly wilted, or until the 
end of the stem has become seared to such a degree that it will not take up 
water readily. I would especially emphasize the importance of getting the 
flower stems into water as soon after they are severed from the plant as 




Bunch of Carnations with Name Tai 



may be possible. It is probable that many of the complaints regarding flowers 
going to sleep in the hands of storekeepers and consumers are due to im- 
proper usage, either at the greenhouses, before packing, in the commission 
house, or in the hands of the storekeeper. Carnations that are taken from 
the plants in the afternoon, upon a hot, bright or windy day, when the plant 
as well as the flower is in a somewhat wilted, flabby condition, and placed 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

in a warm room and allowed to lie around half an hour or so before being put 
in water, are almost certain to wither and fade many hours before they would 
if picked at the proper time and treated properly. 

Also, if blooms are taken from a warm greenhouse, plunged in ice-cold 
water and placed in a room a little above the freezing point, they are liable 
to become chilled, and to wither and shrivel up long before a properly han- 
dled carnation should show any signs of decadence. This is probably due to 
the sudden chill which the flower receives in the transmission from its warm 
quarters to the refrigerator. I am satisfied that in many stores flowers are 
frequently injured by being placed in ice boxes and carried at a too low 
temperature. 

Carnation flowers may also be injured by sudden changes of tempera- 
ture, or by exposing them to an atmosphere charged with noxious gases. 
The various gases which pervade a large city seem to be very destructive to 
the keeping qualities of carnations. In some instances, the cellars of florists' 
stores have been so permeated with gases leaking from the soil and surround- 
ing mains, and various openings into the cellars, that carnation flowers would 
wither and fade away within a few hours after being placed therein. No flower 
grown enjoys a pure, clean, dry atmosphere more than does the carnation. 
The blooms should not be exposed to extremes of any kind, at any period 
of their growth, or of their transmission from the grower to the consumer, 
and the more even the temperature at which the consumer keeps the flowers, 
the longer will they last, and the more valuable will they be. 

In shipping carnations upon the New York market there are two methods 
practiced, which may be termed 

The Bunch Method and the Box Method 

Tlic bunch method is the oldest, and, even at the present time, probably 
the most practiced of any of the methods of shipping in vogue. It consists 
of tying the flowers into bunches of 25, 50 or 100, and packing into large 
cases lined with paper, and also wrapped in paper during the colder weather, 
in order to prevent freezing. Each bunch should have a card upon which 
the name, quality and number of flowers are written. While this is the 
cheapest method, it is also the hardest upon the flowers, as they are always 
more or less bruised by being packed in the bunches, and by the rubbing 
of the blooms against each other: further injury occurs in the stores, and 
especially in the commission houses, from buyers handling the bunches and 
throwing them about. 

The box method. The finest carnations shipped upon the market are 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

treated by what is known as the box method ; that is, the blooms are packed 
singly, in layers, in shallow pasteboard boxes which are lined with soft 
paper, generally thin wax tissue paper. These boxes are made of various 
widths and lengths, in order to accommodate the size of bloom and length of 
stem, and will hold from 50 to icxd flowers. They range from 10 to 12 inches 
in width, and 36 to 42 inches in length, with an average depth of four inches. 




A case of Carnation Blooms packed for shipment to market 
Illustrating the Box Method 



A box 12 inches wide and 40 inches long will hold from 50 to 75 of the 
finest fancy carnations, and about 25 to 30 per cent, more of the grade 
known as extras. 

While the box method is much more expensive than the other, as it 
includes the cost of the boxes, as well as the case in which the pasteboard 
boxes are packed, and also necessitates longer time and considerably more 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

labor in the process of packing, the blooms will arrive upon the market in 
a substantially better condition, and will generally sell for a price sufficiently 
advanced to cover the cost of the boxes and extra labor. These pasteboard 
boxes are packed in cases containing from lo to 15 boxes. The cases are 
made of light half-inch pine, strongly put together, and braced so that they 
will stand a number of trips to the city and return, as the express companies 
return all empties to the shipper, either free, or for a very slight charge. An 




Interior of a Wholesale Florist's Store in New York Citr 



allowance is made to the storekeeper for the return of the pasteboard boxes, 
and quite a proportion of these boxes are returned, and are used over again, 
although of late years an increasing percentage of these are sold to go with 
the flowers. Upon the lid of each box a label is pasted showing names, num- 
ber and quality of the flowers contained in the box. 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

The blooms are packed in the early morning, usually between four and 
six o'clock, and are generally sold and distributed among the various retail 
stores by ten o'clock of the same morning, so that the carnation flower, which 
is cut from the plant on any given morning, is in the storekeeper's window, 
or cool room, by ten o'clock of the following day, and probably in the hands 
of the consumer, when its real use may be said to have commenced, by three 
to six o'clock of the same day. 

Many persons have the idea that flowers freshly cut from the plant 
will keep the best. They frequently come to the florist with the request 
that blooms be picked direct from the plants as an assurance of their fresh- 
ness, and carry the blooms away, with the mistaken impression that such 
flowers will keep better than those that have been picked and treated to 
the proper curing process. While such blooms frequently will last longer 
than many of the flowers purchased from the stores, it does not follow 
that it is the best method of treating the carnation flower. If such flowers 
can be placed at once in water, in a cool room, even for an hour only, then 
properly packed in a suitable box for carriage, they will keep much better 
than when taken directly from the plants to the purchaser's residence. 

During the winter months, it is necessary to protect the flowers from 
frost while in transit. This is readily done where they are packed in the 
pasteboard boxes referred to. The shipping case is lined with several thick- 
nesses of strong, heavy felt ; and in the coldest weather each individual box 
may also be wrapped with paper. Packed in this manner, flowers will 
carr}' a number of hours in the coldest weather, without injur)', as the paste- 
board boxes protect the blooms from frost, even if it should penetrate the 
outer case. 

When the flowers are shipped in bundles, it is more difficult to avoid 
loss by freezing, as if the cold penetrates the case at any point, it rapidly 
spreads throughout the entire mass of flowers and injures them ; whereas, 
when packed in the pasteboard boxes, if the cold penetrates through the outer 
case, it still meets with resistance from the pasteboard box and its wrapping. 
During an experience of ten years in shipping flowers, we have had com- 
paratively few complaints of their being injured by frost in transit, when 
packed in the pasteboard boxes : in fact, it may be said, that almost all of 
the losses which we have incurred from flowers freezing in transit have 
been where the blooms were packed in bunches, and not where they were 
enclosed in the pasteboard boxes. 

As before stated, the chief value of a flower consists in its being placed 
in the consumer's hands in a fresh, durable condition. Some growers won- 



Picking, Packing and Shipping Carnation Flowers 

der why their neighbor's blooms are usually preferred by retail dealers, at 
prices higher than those obtained for their own productions, reasoning to 
themselves, "My carnation plants are as good as my neighbor's ; my flow- 
ers are as large ; I grow the same varieties ; I should get the same prices." 
All of these premises may be true, save the last, and investigation may 
disclose the neighbor's superior methods of handling his flowers, in picking, 
packing and shipping. 

Superior methods of placing an article upon the market in the shape 
that will prove most attractive to the purchaser are sure to bring their re- 
ward in increased prices, other things being equal. In no business do 
cleanliness and artistic handling of goods play a more important role 
than in the florist's business : and the grower, commission man and retail 
dealer must each do his part if the greatest degree of success is to be at- 
tained. 



126 



CHAPTER XII 

Insects and Preventives 

IF it were not for the insects that pre)- upon the plant and the various dis- 
eases to which it is subject, carnation growing would be, comparatively, a 
pastime. But with all the care that may be taken in watering, ventilating 
and preparation of soils, unless the grower learn to master the various in- 
sects and diseases which attack the carnation his returns will be but meagre. 
There are comparatively few insects that infest the plant, but those that do 
are persistent, and unless met with preventive or curative measures will 
seriously injure, if not destroy, the crops of bloom. 

Green Fly 

The most prevalent of these insect enemies is the green fly, or aphides 
(Rhopalosiphum dianthi). However, this pest is more easily prevented and 
destroyed than any of the others infesting the carnation. The green fly is 
easily eradicated by several methods, the most common of which are, first, 
fumigating with tobacco stems, or tobacco dust ; second, sprinkling tobacco 
dust upon the plants ; third, fumigating w'ith red pepper ; fourth, painting 
the pipes with tobacco mixture made as follows : Dissolve one pint of rose 
leaf extract in one quart of pure water ; paint the pipes, when cold, during 
the day, once or twice each week. When the steam is turned on at night 
the heat will evaporate the extract, filling the house with pungent fumes. 
This painting is efficacious only where steam is used in heating ; fifth, evapo- 
rating tobacco extract from pans attached to steam pipes ; sixth, evaporating 
tobacco extract by boiling it over an oil stove, using equal parts of the tobacco 
extract and water, and evaporating from four to six gallons to a house 
I00X20 feet, according as it seems necessary to destroy the insects. 

The green fly should never be allowed to get a foothold in carnation 
houses, but its appearance should always be prevented by early and continu- 
ous fumigation of some sort, as soon after the plants have been housed as 
growth has been established. After the plants are in full growth they should 
be fumigated at least once each week, and this should be continued until they 

127 



Insects and Preventives 

are fully in bloom. The importance of this early and continuous fumigation 
must not be lost sight of. The aphis having once become well established 
upon the plants, will frequently maintain themselves throughout the entire 
winter, in spite of continued fumigation. But if the first colonies that de- 
velop after the plants are brought into the houses are promptly destroyed, 
the succeeding colonies will diminish, and the insects will not multiply to 
an injurious extent, provided the houses are fumigated once each week until 
the plants are in bloom. At this period it is well to cease burning tobacco 
stems, for the reason that fumes injure the flowers, destroying the natural 
odor ; they also impair the keeping qualities of the blooms to some extent, as 
well as bleach the colors. 

From this period blooming plants should be kept free from aphis by 
using some one of the mixtures of tobacco extract. The substance employed 
may be applied to the steam pipes, having it of the consistency of paint and 
brushing it on the pipes thoroughly during the daytime while the pipes are 
still cool. When the steam is turned on at night the fumes of the tobacco 
extract will be given off, and if sufficient pipe surface is covered with the 
extract it proves as efficient in destroying aphides as the more objectionable 
method of burning tobacco stems. 

The extract may also be evaporated from pans attached to the steam 
pipes. The extract may also be evaporated by boiling it in shallow dishes 
upon an ordinary oil stove. 

If the grower will treat his plants to thorough fumigation once or twice 
a week from the time they have become well established until they are in 
bloom, and then follow up with a weekly fumigation with the tobacco extract, 
it is probable that no aphis will be seen during the winter, unless the plants 
when brought in from the field were thoroughly infested with the insects. 

In order to guard against the stock being attacked in the field during 
the summer, it is essential that the young plants be treated to fumigation at 
least once a week, up to the time they are to be planted out. The week 
previous to setting the plants in the field, we follow the practice of fumigating 
the young stock every other night, so as to insure killing all the insects 
which may have escaped previous fumigation. 

Red Spider 

One of the most difficult insects to hold in check is the red spider 
(Tetranychus telarius). This pernicious little mite seems to be unaffected by 
all of the tobacco remedies which prove efficacious in the case of the aphides. 

128 







GOLDEN EAGLE XOVELTY 

Examples of Yellow Vark-g.-ited 

PLATE II. SEEDLING CARNATIONS (WARD) 



Insects and Preventives 



In fact, at the present time. I know of no method of fumigation, not in- 
jurious to the plants, that will destroy the red spider. The fumes of sul- 
phur seem to hold this insect in check, but unless sulphur is very carefully 
used, the growing plants will be injured and often killed. The sulphur is 
usually applied as a paint to the heating pipes, being either mixed with lime to 
form a whitewash, or with linseed oil. It may also be mixed with the tobacco 
extract, and when applied in this manner the combined fumes of the sulphur 
and tobacco destroy the aphides, as well as check the spread of the red 
spider. 




Red Spider 

Tetranychiis himaculatus adult — Enlarged. (From Banks. 

U. S. Dept. of Agriculture) 

Sulphur and Lime Formula. — Slack three pounds of quick lime in a 
gallon of water, to which add one pound flour of sulphur, and stir till all is 
evenly mixed. If the wash proves too stiff to be brushed on easily, add more 
water. Paint three to four runs of pipe in each house. This paint should be 
renewed about every eight or ten days. 

Sulphur and Linseed Oil Mi.rture. — One-quarter pound flour of sul- 

» 129 



Insects and Preventives 

phur, to one quart of boiled linseed oil. Alix thoroughly and apply like any 
ordinary paint. 

Sulphur and Tobacco Mixture. — Dissolve one-quarter pound flour of sul- 
phur in one quart of rose-leaf extract, to which has been added two quarts 
of water. Stir thoroughly, and apply as a paint. 

The usual method of keeping down the red spider is to syringe the 
plants, either with pure water or with a caustic preparation of soap, such 
as whale oil or Ivory soap. 

When using pure water, the most effective manner seems to be the 
syringing of the plants with a fine spray under high pressure. I have become 
well satisfied that the mere presence of moisture in the atmosphere does not 
prevent the propagation and spread of red spider, but that the efficiency of 
water as a spray is measured by the force with which the water is driven 
against the insect ; as in my experience the red spider seems to thrive very 
well, indeed, in a very moist atmosphere, unless forceful syringing is resorted 
to. Too much syringing, however, is deleterious to the plants, as it washes 
off the natural bloom which covers the foliage, and frequently results in 
attacks of spot and various other fungi. 

Of the soap preparations, the best we have found is a solution of Ivory 
soap, made as follows : One-pound cake of Ivory soap, five gallons of water. 
Shave the soap into a kettle holding at least a gallon of water. Boil slowly 
until the soap is dissolved. Add to this mixture sufficient water to make five 
gallons, then churn the whole through a syringe until an emulsion is formed. 

This emulsion should be thrown upon the plants with a fine spray, the 
same as is used when sj'ringing with pure water. After the solution has re- 
mained upon the plants two hours, it should be washed off, by syringing with 
clear water. In the use of soap mixtures, as well as in washing them off, 
we have found the high pressure syringing with a very fine rose the most 
eft'ective. In using any caustic preparation upon plants, the grower must 
remember that soft, sappy growths are frequently injured, and these solu- 
tions ought not to be applied to plants that are in such condition. 

Use of Salt as a Preventive of Red Spider 

During the past three years we have been using a solution of salt, made 
as follows : Eight six-inch potfuls of common salt in 50 gallons of water. 
When using this solution, always stir from the bottom of the barrel in order 
to insure an even strength throughout. Give the foliage a thorough spraying, 
both underneath and above, using a fine rose under strong pressure. After 
syringing with the salt solution, this should be allowed to remain from three 

130 



Insects and Preventives 

to four days in bright weather, and from one to two days in dark cloudy 
weather, after which the salt should be thoroughly washed off the plants 
by a strong syringing with clear water. Care must be taken not to syringe 
with the salt solution too often. The carnation plant loves a certain amount 
of salt, and is not injured by what will reach the soil, provided the applica- 
tions are not too frequent, or the solution not too strong. 

Do not spray the plants with the salt solution unless the foliage is in a 
firm, well-hardened condition, for if applied to plants that are in a soft state, 
that is to say, those that have been grown under a too high temperature, or 
in soil that has been kept too moist, the tender foliage will be injured or 
burned, and as the salt keeps the foliage constantly wet during the night time, 
there is some danger of developing spot upon very soft plants. 

An application of salt should, generally, not be made oftener than once 
in two weeks ; however, we occasionally svrino'e with the salt mixture 




Tlnips tahaci 
a, adult : h, antenna oi same ; c, young larva ; d, full grown larva — 
Enlarged. {From Howard, V. S., Dept. of Agriculture) 

upon alternate days, using a weaker solution of salt. The red spider does not 
thrive upon the carnation foliage when it is coated with the salt crystals ; and 
after one or two thorough applications of the solution comparatively few of the 
insects will be found. 

Thrips 

While the red spider may be considered one of the worst insects attack- 
ing the carnation, I believe that the most injurious insect with which the 
grower has to contend is thrips (Heliothrips tabaci). This, like the red 
spider, is an insect which it is difficult to see with the naked eye, especially 
in its young state. It does the principal damage to the flowers while yet 
in the bud form. Unlike the red spider, which confines its attacks to the 
epidermis of the foliage, and principally the lower or harder foliage, the 
thrips attacks the tender, terminal shoots, or the tender petals of the ex- 

131 



Insects and Preventives 

paneling flower buds. It feeds upon the plant, by piercing the tissue and suck- 
ing the contents of the cells. Its presence may be discovered by the twisted 
and curled condition of the young growths, and also by the marring of the 
petals as the flower is opened. Sometimes thrips injures the buds so seri- 
ously that the petals are glued together, and the blooms fail to open. 

The thrips seems to have become more prevalent each year during the 
past five seasons, and in some places has increased to such an extent as to 
almost destroy crops of carnations at certain periods. Its increase in the 
Eastern States has been such, that in certain localities it is impossible to 
grow marketable carnation flowers in the open ground. It can, however, be 
kept under control in the greenhouses, the principal remedy being heavy 
fumigation with tobacco stems. Some growers have recommended fumi- 
gating with red pepper, but so far as I have experimented with this substance 
it does not seem to be very efficient. Repeated, heavy fumigations with 
tobacco stems will keep the thrips in check to some extent, but owing to the 
fact that this pest is generally concealed in the enfolded bud, it is impossible 
to reach all of the insects by one fumigation, or even by several : therefore, 
it is much more difficult to eradicate than red spider. 

A patented compound, manufactured in England and sold under the 
name of "X L All." has been successfully used in destroying thrips, and has 
proved more efficient than the ordinary fumigation with tobacco. It is, 
however, very expensive at the present time ; in fact, so costly as to be 
beyond the reach of the ordinary carnation grower. It is furnished in small 
cakes, each cake being sufficient for one thousand cubic feet of space. It is 
used by vaporizing the cakes, either by means of a special lamp made for the 
purpose, or upon an ordinary tin pan placed over an alcohol lamp. This 
vaporizing is done just at night, and the houses closed and locked for the 
night. In order to get the best results with the employment of this com- 
pound, it is necessary to use it several times consecutively ; that is, vaporizing 
the house upon one night and following with another vaporization, either the 
succeeding night or the second night after. If this be repeated once in two 
weeks, the thrips will be held in check, and the damage therefrom much re- 
duced. 

Cut Worms 

Ordinary black or variegated cut worms occasionally injure voung car- 
nation plants in the field, cutting off the foliage or gnawing out the terininal 
shoot immediately after the plants are set out. The injury done by cut 
worms to young plants is, however, of comparatively little moment. These do 



Insects and Preventives 

the most serious damage by boring into the flower buds just before the blooms 
open. The worms usually attack the flowers after the plants are in the green- 
houses and during the early fall and winter ; they are generally brought into 
the greenhouses, either upon the plants when dug from the field, or in the 
soil where fresh sod is used in the compost heaps, and in the latter case, the 
damage done is sometimes serious. Usually, they appear in such small 
numbers as to cause the grower little annoyance, but may become a serious 
pest if fresh sods are used in making up the compost pile, or if weeds are 
allowed to grow upon the carnation soil heaps during the summer time. 

When cut worms are once brought into the greenhouses, the only remedy 
is to hunt them during the night with a lantern. They feed upon the buds 
during the night, and hide either under the foliage or conceal themselves 
by boring into the earth at the base of the plant. With the aid of a bright 
lantern, they will be detected upon the flower buds in the act of feeding, 
and can easily be destroyed ; or they may be dug from the earth during the 
day time. 

Carnation Stalk Borer 

This insect is usually present in all carnation fields, but except in rare 
instances it is not a serious pest. It injures the plant by boring into the 
pith of the stalk, and in some cases will kill very young plants. Upon mature 
plants this borer generally injures but one branch, and the damage in the ma- 
jority of cases is done before the insect is discovered. When carnations are 
planted upon newly-ploughed ground, the stalk borer may become sufficiently 
numerous to do considerable harm ; but under ordinary circumstances it 
injures so few plants as to cause the grower no concern. If the carnation 
fields are properly prepared, by ploughing under the sod in early August of 
the preceding year, and frequently ploughing during the fall, the ground 
being left in a roughened condition at the last ploughing, so that frost will 
thoroughly act upon all of the soil that has been stirred, very little damage 
will be done by either the stalk borer or the cut worm, as by this treatment of 
the land almost all of these insects contained therein will be destroyed. 

In conclusion, it may be well stated that the best method of fighting 
insect pests is by preventive measures. No insect injurious to the carnation 
should ever be allowed to take possession of the plants. It is far more easy to 
prevent the propagation of insect pests than it is to destroy them, once the 
plants are thoroughly infected with them. 



'33 



CHAPTER XIII 

Diseases and Injuries 

Up to a certain period, the carnation had been considered among the 
flowers least subject to disease, and for many years after the plant was 
brought into general cultivation, very little was heard of carnation dis- 
eases. Sometimes plants did not seem to do well. In such cases, it was said 
they needed different soils, or less water, less heat, or more ventilation, but 
clearly defined diseases were practically unknown to the carnation grower. 

About the year 1889, Professor Seymour of Massachusetts described 
the disease of the carnation called Spot (Septoria Dianthi), which aroused 
the attention of florists to the fact that the plant was subject to disease. 
However, Professor Seymour's publication raised no particular apprehen- 
sion in the minds of growers, as comparatively little damage had yet been 
done. 

Three years later, the advent of Carnation Rust caused a great deal of 
concern among growers, many of whom thought that this disease would 
eventually prove fatal to successful carnation culture. The appearance of this 
disease caused a considerable disturbance to trade, and loss of confidence 
between dealers in carnation plants ; many being unable to definitely recog- 
nize the disease, suspected every little defect in carnation foliage to be the 
Rust. 

In 1889, Wm. Falconer wrote regarding Professor Seymour's article : 

"This whole question of plant disease is one of vast importance to us, but practical 
men like myself are absolutely unfit to grapple with the subject; it is a matter for the 
scientist. We can understand fairly well anything we can see plainly, but obscure 
diseases bother us. It is not enough for us to say, 'Oh, it's some sort of a fungus.' 
Be precise, know for a certainty whether it is a fungus or not, and, if a fungus, what 
fungus it is ; also, whether the fungus is the cause or the effect." 

The manifest wisdom of j\Ir. Falconer's suggestion impressed many 
leading carnation growers, who promptly accepted his advice, and called 
upon the various scientists whose positions warranted their being compe- 
tent advisors upon the subject. The American Carnation Society was 
favored with well written papers, profusely illustrated with the details 

134 



Diseases and Injuries 

demonstrating the various mycelia which attack the carnation. As the result 
of these papers and the discussions ensuing thereon, the carnation diseases 
became famihar to those engaged in growing the divine flower, so that, at 
the present time, practical growers have little trouble in diagnosing the differ- 
ent forms of fungi which infect the carnation plant. 

Carnation Rust (Uromyces caryophillinus) 

When this disease was first introduced, about the year 1892, in some 
localities it spread so rapidly over the carnation stocks, and caused so much 
damage, as to excite the gravest fear among many that it would ultimately 
destroy the industry. Happily, this fear was not well founded, and, at the 
present time, this disease is not considered a serious ailment in most of the 
etablishments where the plants receive proper treatment. 

The presence of this fungus is first indicated in the plant by a slight 
swelling, either on the stem or leaf. The surface of these swellings soon 
becomes pale, or nearly colorless, as the green coloring matter is destroyed 
and obscured by the fruiting threads and young spores of the fungus. As the 
fungus matures, these spores become brownish in color, and the mass lying 
so closely together, imparts a dark brown color to the colony of fruiting 
spores. As growth proceeds, the pressure from within ruptures the epidermis, 
exposing the mass of spores. When the plant is thoroughly infected, 
the foliage presents the appearance of being thickly covered with dark brown 
powdery spots. 

Rust reproduces itself from two classes of spores. The first, called 
"uredo spores," germinate readily in a moist atmosphere as soon as they are 
set free; and as these spores are easily scattered about and over the plants, 
by winds or draughts, the disease spreads rapidly if conditions favor the 
growth of the fungus. 

A short time after the development of the uredo spores, a second kind 
of spore is produced, termed the "teleuto spore." These later spores will 
not germinate immediately after development, but must first pass through 
a period of rest, serving the purpose of tiding the parasite over any unfavor- 
able periods when the uredo spores might fail to vegetate. 

The Rust attacks the carnation in every stage of growth, from the seed 
leaf to the mature plants, cuttings in the sand bench being particularly 
affected wherever they are taken from an infected plant. Frequently the 
plant shows no external evidence of the disease for some considerable time, 
but contains the threads within its tissues. In such case, the disease develops 

135 



Diseases and Injuries 

very rapidly among tlie cuttings, as soon as the roots are formed in the 
cutting bench. 

Many remedies have been advised and elaborately described ; but after a 
thorough trial of most everything that has been put forward as a cure for 
Rust, I have come to the conclusion that a plant once thoroughly infected 
cannot be absolutely freed from the disease until it has run a certain course 
through the tissue of the plant, and exhausted itself. 

In an article read before the American Carnation Society, at its annual 
meeting in 1893, the author recommended spraying the plants with Bordeaux 
Mixture, or the ammoniacal solution of carbonate of copper. At that time, 
when Rust first appeared, I had apparently cleared it from the plants, by 
spraying with Bordeaux Mixture ; but subsequent tests, under different con- 
ditions, prove the spraying to have but little effect, and, at the present time, 
I am satisfied that these plants would have recovered from the disease in a 
natural manner, had they been left unsprayed until the disease had run its 
course. 

Recent experiments by the United States Department of Agriculture 
seem to demonstrate that, where a fungus infects a certain family of plants, 
the disease may be wholly got rid of, by allowing it to exhaust itself. It 
will generally be found that, when the cycle of fungoid growth is complete, 
there will remain a certain percentage of unaffected plants. By propagating 
from these, a strain will be produced which is capable of resisting, or over- 
coming, the attacks of the disease. I am inclined to the opinion, that more 
benefit will be derived from pursuing this course in propagating carnation 
stocks, than by any treatment in the way of spraying with dift'erent mix- 
tures that has yet come under my observation. 

Of late years, we have dispensed entirely with spraying the plants for 
the purpose of curing them from attacks of Carnation Rust. The disease 
is located within the tissue of the plant, and the brownish powder given off is 
but the fruiting spores ; so that while we may reach these spores by the 
different sprays recommended, the fungus itself retains its vitality, and 
continues to give off these fruiting spores until it is exhausted. 

I have never yet seen a healthy carnation plant killed when attacked by 
the Carnation Rust, although I have frequently seen the strongest and most 
vigorous plants affected by the disease to such an extent that for a time 
growth was largely arrested. Nevertheless, after the disease had fruited for 
a certain period, the plants seemed to recover from the attack, and grew 
as vigorously as before. 

So far as spraying has been tried. I believe that the salt solution, 

136 



Diseases and Injuries 

which has been recommended in Chapter XII to be used for the destruction of 
red spider, has a greater effect in the prevention or curing of Rust than any 
of the other mixtures I have tried. 

As a preventive against this disease, the following conditions should 
be observed : The foliage should be free from any moisture, or condensa- 
tion, during the night time. A free circulation of air about the plants at all 
times should be provided. The plants should be kept in a vigorous, growing 
condition. A close, damp atmosphere, with an abnormally high temper- 
ature, favors the development of Rust and other fungi. Probably the most 
essential feature in preventing these diseases is to maintain a pure atmos- 
phere, as cool and dry as is compatible with healthy growth. 

Spraying Formulas Which Have Been Recommended as 
Curative Agencies for Rust 

Bord<\iux Mix/ure. — Take si.x pounds of copper sulphate, four pounds of 
quick lime and twenty-two gallons of water. Dissolve the copper sulphate 
in part of the water; then make a thin whitewash with the lime, to which 
add the copper sulphate solution ; then add the remainder of the water, 
mixing thoroughly. When using this mixture, it must be thoroughly agi- 
tated, so as to prevent the precipitation of the lime and copper sulphate. 

Ammoniacal Solution of Carbonate of Copper. — Dissolve six ounces of 
pulverized ammonia carbonate and one ounce of copper carbonate in ten 
gallons of water. This should be prepared as it is needed, and should be 
thoroughly agitated during the operation of spraying. 

The following solution has also been used with good results : Dis- 
solve one pound of sulphate of copper in two quarts of ammonia ; dilute this 
with thirty gallons of water, and use as before described. 

Carnation Spot (Septoria Dianthi) 

This is one of the oldest carnation diseases, and possesses certain 
characteristics by which it is easily distinguished from the other fungi that 
attack the plant. The Spot is characterized by a circular, or oblong, brown- 
ish center, bordered by a dark band, purplish in color. The whitish center 
of the spot is dotted with minute, black points, which are portions of the 
fruiting spores projecting through the epidermis to the surface. Whenever 
the spot is on the margin of the leaf, it will be semi-circular in form. When 
the spot extends across the larger part of the leaf, the outer portion will die. 
On the stem, the spot appears as an oblong patch on one side, the border 

137 



Diseases and Injuries 

not usually so well marked as on the leaf. As a rule, this disease is 
developed by improper treatment of plants. It also frequently develops upon 
plants in the open field, when a hot, dry season is followed by a continuous 
spell of wet, cold weather ; and, then again, by periods of intense heat. It 
may also be easily developed upon freshly transplanted plants, by over- 
watering and over-spraying the plants before root action is fully established, 
and by leaving the foliage wet over night, especially where the night tem- 
perature is allowed to fall considerably below 45 degrees. 

As a rule, where carnation plants are properly watered and abundantly 
ventilated, this disease will not prove serious. The same spraying which 
has been recommended for Rust will usually arrest, or prevent, the spread 
of the Spot ; and the same treatment as to keeping the plants in vigorous 
growth, and also the atmosphere in a pure condition, is recommended. 

Fairy Ring Spot (Heterosporium echinulatum) 

This fungus, which was imported from Europe about the year 1892 
or 1893, has been known for nearly a quarter of a century in England. In 
appearance, it differs from Septoria Dianthi in that the vegetable threads, 
growing within the leaf tissue, exhaust the substance at certain points, so 
that there appears a nearly circular, light-colored spot. The spores are 
brown in color, and when produced in great numbers, with the threads, 
darken the spot. At this stage, the spot possesses different shades of color, 
according to the number of spores produced. The growth of the fungus 
from the center of the spot is centrifugal, and the darker color is apt to be 
arranged in concentric lines, or rings, representing a miniature fairy ring — 
hence the name. 

This fungus is much more injurious to the carnation than the Septoria 
Dianthi. as it spreads more rapidly and destroys the foliage to a greater 
extent ; in fact, I have many times seen the greater part of the foliage taken 
from plants by this disease. 

The same conditions that bring on attacks of Septoria will favor the 
development of the Fairy Ring, and the same remedies are also recom- 
mended. 

Stem Rot (Rhizoctonia) 

Probably the most insidious and destructive of the various fungous dis- 
eases known to carnation growers is Stem Rot (Rhizoctonia). This disease 
has been known to the American grower for many years, but until within 
a recent period, it appeared in its destructive form only at rare intervals. 

138 



Diseases and Injuries 

During some unfavorable seasons, it has destroyed almost the entire stock 
of several growers. It is caused by a fungus, . the spores of which exist 
in the soil, and it apparently attacks a number of other plants besides the 
carnation. It frequently attacks plants in the field, causing large loss, but is 
usually the most destructive shortly after the plants are brought into the 
houses — in August and September. Thus far, comparatively little is known 
about the disease, and probably less about preventing it. In my opinion, it 
may be largely brought about by improper treatment of the cuttings in the 
sand ; also improper potting of young stock ; that is, potting the plants too 
deep ; also by planting the young plants too deep in the open ground. It may 
be also increased by over-watering the plants, and by keeping them in a 
close, warm, dank atmosphere. 

Applications of lime to the soil seem to have a tendency to reduce this 
fungus, but thus far have not proved a positive preventive. The steriliza- 
tion of the bench soil also tends largely to reduce the ravages of the fungus ; 
but where the infected plants are taken from the open ground and planted 
in sterilized soil, the disease continues its course, and the plants are destroyed. 
In my opinion, if cuttings are taken from healthy stock, and rooted in 
sterilized sand, then potted up in sterilized soil, and afterward shifted into 
larger pots, say four to five inches, and held in a frame until June or July, 
then planted upon benches filled with sterilized soil, these cuttings will re- 
main practically free from the Stem Rot. 

I also believe that propagating young stock from exhausted plants has a 
tendency to increase this trouble, as such stock is deficient in strength, and 
succumbs much more readily to the attacks of fungi than stock propagated 
from cuttings taken from plants which are growing vigorously. 

Some varieties are more inclined to Stem Rot than others, and the ex- 
periments of the United States Department of Agriculture with disease- 
resisting cotton plants would seem to indicate that rot-resisting varieties of 
carnations could also be developed. 

There are two kinds of Stem Rot. The first is where the plant dies off 
at the collar, and the entire plant is lost. This disease attacks the plant 
very rapidly, and frequently carries it off in a single night. When a bench 
becomes affected, the mycelium apparently travels through the soil from 
plant to plant, causing great destruction. Sometimes as much as 90 per 
cent, of an entire bench of plants has been destroyed by this disease. 

The second form of the Stem Rot might more properly be termed 
"branch rot," as usually some branch, or only a portion of a plant dies. This 
disease proceeds slowly, and may be usually noted by a single branch grad- 

139 



Diseases and Injuries 

ually drying up and turning a whitish brown. While at times the branch 
rot causes much damage, it is not so disastrous as the stem rot. 




Carnation Leaves Affected with Fusarium Leaf-Spot 

EXTRACT FROM BULLETIN NO. I64. DEC, iSgrj, OF NEW YORK AGRICULTURAL 
EXPERIMENT STATION. 

A FUSARIUM LEAF-SPOT OF CARNATIONS, BY PROF. F. C. STEWART. 

"A very unusual case of Fusarium attacking carnation foliage was observed in a 
greenhouse at Syracuse last November. A bench of carnations of the variety Emily Pier- 
son was quite seriously affected witli a peculiar leaf spot. The spots varied in length from 
one-eighth of an inch to one imh. The smaller ones were elliptical, but the larger ones 
occupied the entire width of the leaf and were irregular at the ends. They were covered 
with a pinkish gray mold and irregularly dotted at the center with the light yellow spore 

140 



Diseases and Inji:ries 

masses of a species of Fusariuni. Many of the worst affected leaves were dying. The 
Fusarium was evidently parasitic on the leaves, but a careful examination revealed the 
fact that in every case the spots originated in a rust sorus. It appeared that the Fusarium 
was unable to attack the uninjured leaf, but when the epidermis was broken by rust it 
was able to enter and bring about decay of the leaf tissue. It is improbable that the 
Fusarium is parasitic upon the rust. 

"The writer has occasionally observed Fusarium attacking injured leaves and stems 
of carnations and the spore masses of a similar Fusarium are common on the stems of 
carnations affected with that form of stem-rot commonly known as dry rot or die back ; 
but we have never before known Fusarium to produce a genuine leaf-spot of carnations. 
Inoculation e.xperiments may show that this Fusarium is identical with the one causing 
carnation stem-rot." 

Remedies and Preventives for Stem Rot 

The soil in which carnations are grown through the summer should be 
frequently changed, and under no circumstances should carnations be planted 
in the same soil year after year, wherever it is possible to avoid it; but, 
instead, a new location should be chosen annually. Sterilizing the bench, 
potting soil, and propagating sand should be thoroughly done, and should be 
persisted in until the disease is overcome. 

In the preparation of bench or potting soils, too much decaying nitro- 
genous matter should not be used ; and the soil should invariably be fresh, 
clean, and well decomposed. Under no circumstances should rank, fer- 
menting manures be introduced into the soil. It is important that the 
soil in the benches be kept sweet, and in a friable, healthy condition, by 
close attention to watering. As cool a temperature as possible should be 
maintained after the plants are benched, and until growth is fully established. 
The Stem Rot usually disappears, to a large e.xtent, upon the advent of cold 
weather in the fall, thus indicating that the fungus flourishes best in a high 
temperature. 

So far as I have been able to study Stem Rot in the field, it occurs 
immediately after the intense heat which we usually have in July and August, 
and sometimes in September. When we have had a lengthy spell of ex- 
tremely hot weather, with frequent thunder showers and steaming, hot 
cloudy days, the Stem Rot seems to have developed to its greatest extent, 
and caused the greatest damage. Such weather sometiines induces the 
rotting of potatoes, squashes and melons in the field ; also cabbages and cauli- 
flower ; the disease being called "gangrene" by the growers of the latter crops. 

In my opinion, Stem Rot may be largely avoided by propagating from 
strong, healthy stock plants, and by close observation of sanitary conditions 
when rooting cuttings ; also by proper treatment of the young stock while 



Diseases and Injuries 



growing in pots, as well as after it is planted in the field. The disease is, 
however, largely caused by climatic conditions which are entirely beyond 
the control of the grower, and in unfavorable seasons it will prevail to a seri- 
ous extent, no matter how skillfully the stock may be handled. Nevertheless, 




Bactcnosis 

the most skillfully handled and strongest stock will stand the best chance to 
grow, and will generally suffer the least. 

Bacteriosis 

Bacterial disease, which has been called Bacteriosis, shows readily upon 
leaves recently attacked, in the form of translucent dots in otherwise healthy 
foliage. It is best recognized by holding the leaf so that the light will shine 
through it. In the early stages of the disease, these dots are about the size 

142 



Diseases and Injuries 

of a pin point. Later on they enlarge and run together, and the leaf finally 
turns yellow and dries up. The presence of the disease can be detected long 
before there is any indication of it upon the surface, by looking at the leaf 
held toward the strong light. Recent observations of this disease seem to 
have determined that it is caused by the attacks of various insects, such as 
red spider, thrips, and more particularly aphis ; and wherever the plants are 
kept free from these insects, the bacterial disease does not seem to de- 
velop. Therefore, the best remedy, or preventive, of this disease seems to be 
to keep down the insects, and propagate only from healthy, vigorous stock, 
selecting the strongest plants, v^'hich should be kept in active growth. 

In general, it may be said that all diseases may be largely prevented, or 
modified, by keeping the plants in an active, growing condition, avoiding 
overwatering, overfeeding, as well as the overforcing which ensues when 
the temperature is carried too high. By a close observation of all these points, 
and, in addition, providing abundant ventilation, the grower will generally 
have but little serious trouble with diseases. 

BIBLIOGRAPHY OF CARNATIO.N DISEASES. AS COMPILED BY PROF. \VM. C. STURGIS, OF THE 
CONNECTICUT EXPERIMENT STATION. 

Anthracnose (CoUetotrichum sp. )' 

Descr., N. J. Agr. E.xp. Sta., Rep. 12. 1891. p. 301. (1892) 

Anthracnose, (Volutella Dianthi, Atkins.) 

Descr., N. J. Agr. E.xp. Sta., Rep. 14. 1803, pp. 385 & 386. (1894) 

Bacteriosis (Bacterium Dianthi, Arth. & Boll.) (iS) 

Descr. Illus., Ind. Agr. Exp. Sta., Bull. 59, pp. 17-34. (1896) 

Treat.. Ind. Agr. Exp. Sta.. Bull. 59, pp. 34-37. (1S96) 

Leaf-Blight, {Alternaria, sp.) (i») 

Leaf-Mold (Heterosporium echinulatum, (Berk.) Cke.) (20) 

Occ, N. J. Agr. Exp. Sta., Rep. 14, 1S93. |>. 386. (1894) 

Leaf-Spot {Septoria Dianthi, Desm.) 

Descr., N. J- Agr. Exp. Sta., Rep. 14, 1893. pp. 384 & 385. (1894) 

Treat, (pos.), N. J. Agr. Exp. Sta. Rep. II, 1890, p. 363. (1891) 

Rust {I'rowyces caryophrllinus, (Schrank) Schrt.) 

Descr. Illus., Gar. and For., Vol. V, pp. 18 & 19. (1892) 

Treat, (pos.), N. Y. (Corn. Univ.) Agr. Exp. Sta., Bull. 96, pp. 334 & 

335. (1895) 

N. V. Agr. Exp. Sta.. Bull. 100, pp. 50-C8. (1896) 

Gar. & For., Vol. X. p. 444. (1S97) 
Stigmonose (Woods.) 

Dep. of .Agr., Div. Veg.. Phys. and Path., Bull. 19. (1900) 
Wilt (Fiisarium sp?) 

Descr., Conn. .A.gr. Exp. Sta., Rep. 21. 1897, pp. 175-181. (1898) 



143 



CHAPTER XIV 

Packing and Shipping Field-Grown Plants 

As a rule, it is not desirable to purchase field-grown plants that must 
be shipped a great distance, as plants taken from a field near the 
greenhouses, and transferred to the benches in the shortest possible 
time, will sufYer the least check. However, there always will be the neces- 
sity of purchasing more or less field-grown stock which must be shipped 
from distant growers. The uncertainties of carnation growing are such, that 
frequently shortages will occur, and these shortages must be made up by 
the purchase of field-grown plants from other growers, often located at 
distant points. 

Success in growing plants shipped from a distance will not only largely 
depend upon their condition when taken from the field, but will depend 
equally as much upon the care taken in preparing and packing the plants 
for shipment, as well as the care exercised by the purchaser in properly 
unpacking and treating them upon their arrival, and prior to planting on 
the benches. Up>on the part of the seller, the utmost care should be used 
to have the plants safely delivered to the transportation company, securely 
packed in a cool, dormant condition, so that they will not be injured by 
either heating, or growing, during transit. 

Plants should be dug as early in the morning as the foliage becomes 
dry. They should be placed immediately in flats and carried to a cool shed, 
the object being to cool them down as much as possible. The roots should 
not be left exposed in the sun to dry, and in all cases should be covered 
with moist sphagnum moss ; and the plants should not be ailotved to zvilt. 
In packing, boxes about twenty-four to thirty inches wide, and sufficiently 
deep to hold the plants without injury, are preferable. The flower shoots 
should not be bent over, but must stand erect, and free from the top of 
the box. They should be so packed that an abundance of air may reach 
the tops of the plants, which must still be protected from the drying suns 
and draughts. The plants should be boxed up while they are cool, so as 
to avoid fermenting and heating. 



Packino; and Shippin<^ Field-Grown Plants 

Commence the packing by placing a layer of well-moistened sphagnum 
moss, about three inches deep, over the bottom of the box. Tilt the box 
up at an angle of about 45 degrees ; then, beginning at the lower end of the 
box, lay the plants firmly against the end, having previously lined up the 
end of the box, about six inches above the bottom, with a layer of moist- 
ened sphagnum. Put in a la\er of plants, then work in a layer of sphag- 




Cnniulimi I'liiiH^ I'nvkcd for Shipment 

luuu around and thruugh the roots, and up around the neck, working in 
about two or three layers of plants with moss, according to size. iSe sure 
that the moss covers the roots thoroughly, so that they will not be exposed 
to the air ; and have the moss sufficiently dampened to remain moist during 
the entire period of transit. Now take a cleat that will just fit in the box, 
so it can be nailed through at each end, and press the plants sufficiently 

10 145 



I'acking and Shipping Field-Grown Plants 

firm against the end of the box, so that, when the cleat is nailed fast, the 
plants cannot be moved, even when the box is roughly thrown about. Then 
put another layer of sphagnum moss over the roots of the last layer of 
plants, and fill in other plants, cleating them in as with the first layer, and 
continue until the box is filled. 

In closing up the box, the cover should be raised from two to three 
inches above the sides, and should be supported by cleats nailed into the 
corner. When the cover is nailed on, there should be a circulation of air 
all around and over the tops of the plants, and every layer should be so 
thoroughly cleated in that the plants will not fall out, or move, even if the 
box be turned upside down. Mark the address of the consignee so plainly 
upon the top and on the end of the box that it cannot be mistaken. Do not 
fail to print in large letters, "Perishable Plants — No Delay." All this done, 
the shipment is ready for delivery to the express company. 

Treatment of Field-Grown Plants When Received After 
a Long Shipment 

The grower, upon receiving a lot of field-grown plants that have been 
shipped from a distance, should place the box immediately in the coolest 
place at hand, and unpack as quickly as possible. It will be best to retain 
as much of the sphagnum moss as is practicable around the roots. When 
unpacked, the roots of the plants should be set upon a moist surface, in a 
cool place, and the tops well moistened with cool water. If they are wilted 
to any extent, the plants should remain in the cool place until they show 
some evidence of recovery from the wilt. In some instances, a good soaking 
of the entire plant in clear water has ])rovcn beneficial. They can then be 
planted upon the benches. 

Where plants have been shipped some distance, and are, to some extent, 
in a delicate condition, it is best to plant them in the benches late in the 
afternoon, so that they may have the cool of the night in which to com- 
mence the first stage of recovery. If they are received upon a cloudy day, 
they can be planted at any time ; but, as a general rule, we have obtained 
the best results by planting after three o'clock in the afternoon. 

Plants received from distant points require rather more shading, and 
a little closer watch upon the ventilation, than those taken direct from fields 
near by. It will also take such stock considerably longer to recover, and 
the results from it will scarcely ever be as good as from the stock grown 
at home. Such plants are also more liable to attacks of spot, rust, stem-rot, 
and the other fungous diseases, especially if not properly cared for. 

U6 



Packing and Shipping Field-Grown Plants 

Some carnation growers who receive plants shipped from a distance 
will allow them to lie in the cases, unpacked, for a considerable length of 
time; they will also let the plants lie around, and become somewhat with- 
ered and dried out. Of course, stock treated in this way will not do well, 
and frequently the grower receiving it will lose a large proportion ; and, 
having met with such losses, will lay the blame upon the shipper of the 
plants, instead of ascribing it to the real cause, which is improper treat- 
ment upon receipt and planting. There are also shippers of plants who 
will dig them from the field in a rough manner, and slash them about, 
breaking off many of the branches ; pack them roughly into any sort of a 
case, and expect the purchaser to receive them without a murmur. 

Growers who are obliged to purchase plants from the field in the 
fall, in order to fill their needs, should buy them as near at hand as pos- 
sible ; but in case it be necessary to obtain them from a distant source, be 
sure to purchase from a grower who is in the habit of packing and shipping 
his plants in the best possible condition ; then supplement this by properly 
caring for the plants upon arrival, unpacking them in due season, and treat- 
ing them in a proper manner during the planting time, as well as after. 
I have known of large consignments of plants, shipped a thousand miles 
or more, which have arrived in excellent condition, and have given a 
splendid crop of flowers ; but the chances one takes in shipping field- 
grown carnation plants such long distances are great, and I doubt very 
much the desirability of procuring supplies from far distant points, pro- 
vided good stock of the varieties wished can be secured nearer home. 




CHAPTER XV 



Forcing Houses for Carnations 

1.\ tlif earlv ilays of carnation culture, crude structures were generally 
used fur forcing; in fact, the carnation was treated as a sort of rene- 
gade. Almost any bench, or position, that would not grow roses, or 
some other more valued plant to advantage, was thought good enough for the 
carnation. The early structures built for forcing carnations were usually 
narrow, primitive houses, glazed with hot-bed sash, in which the glass 




Originnl Type of Sash House Used for Growing Carnations 

was seldom more than eight to ten inches wide. Flowers grown in such 
houses were naturally much inferior to the splendid specimens now pro- 
duced in the modern glass structures — the evolution of the past ten years 
of experimental carnation growing. 

148 



Forcing Houses for Carnations 

These narrow houses were, as a rule, poorly heated, and frequently 
inadequately ventilated, as growers often sought to economize in coal by 
keeping the houses closed during cold weather. In order to produce the 
best results in the forcing of any flowering plant under glass during the 
winter months, it is essential to provide for the admission of the greatest 
amount of sunlight possible, as well as to furnish suiificient ventilation to 
keep the plants in a pure, clean, normal atmosphere. 

The increasing demand for carnation blooms of larger size, with longer 
stems, has forced the carnation grower to constant effort and study, with 
a view of improving, not only his methods of growing, but the structures 
in which the plants are cultivated. 

The various forms of carnation houses now in general use ma\' be 
divided into three types : the even span, which may be built with a ridge 
running north and south, or with the ridge running east and west ; the 
three-quarter, or long span to the south, w'hich is always built with the ridge 
running east and west ; and the short span to the south, which might be 
termed the long span to the north house, which is also Iniilt with the ridge 
running east and west. 

Exhaustive trials with forcing houses have demonstrated that for forcing 
purposes wide houses are preferable to the narrow houses that were exclu- 
sively used up to a comparatively recent period ; consequently, the most 
modern structures have been built from 28 ft. to 30 ft. wide and upward, 
instead of 16 ft. to 20 ft. The length of these houses has also been increased 
from 50 ft. to 100 ft., up to 300 ft., and even 400 ft. The advantages found 
with these wide houses are many. In the first instance, the cost of the 
structure per foot of bench surface covered is relatively less than is the case 
with the narrow house. Secondly, the cost of heating and maintaining the 
bench surface at the growing point is relatively no greater in the wide house 
than in the narrow one, and by some growers is claimed to be less. The 
increased volume of air contained in the larger houses maintains a more 
uniform temperature than is possible with a narrow house. The oscillation 
of temperature is sensibly less in the wider house, and the larger volume 
of air cools off more slowly than in the small houses. True, when cool, 
the larger houses require a greater expenditure of coal to raise the tempera- 
ture to the proper point, but once the proper degree of heat is obtained, it 
is relatively easier to maintain it than is the case where a smaller body of air 
exists. In other words, it seems that the evaporation of heat is more nearly 
in proportion to the glass surface exposed, than to the volume of air con- 
tained under that glass surface. Be this as it may, it appears to have been 



Forcini^ Houses for Carntitions 

amply proved that the larger, wider house is more desirable, not only in 
carnation growing, but in the forcing of many other flowers and plants 
as well; and at the present time a strong preference prevails among the 
most advanced growers of carnations and roses for the larger structures, 
more of which arc lieinQ- annuallv built. 




A Canadian Carnation Ran^e. J. H Diinlo/). Toronto. Can. 



The lighter the house (in other words, the more nearly the light in 
which the carnation plant is forced approximates the normal outdoor light 
which obtains at the natural blooming season), the better the results obtained, 
not only in the quality of liloom. such as size, and length and strength of 
stem, but in the quantity which the plants will produce. For this reason, 




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Forcinjj; Houses for Carnations 

the size of glass used in carnation structures has gradually been advanced 
from 8 in. x lo in., or 8 in. x 12 in., to glass uniformly 16 in. wide and from 
16 in. to 24 in. in length, preference being given the 16 in. x 24 in. size, of 
double-thick glass. 

At the present time the general consensus of opinion is that the even- 
span house, ranging from 28 ft. to 30 ft. in width, built with the ridge run- 
ning east and west, with ample ventilation at the ridge, sides and ends, is 
as near the ideal type of carnation forcing house as can be attained. These 
liouses are always glazed with double-thick glass, 16 in. wide: the height 
of the ridge from the floor being from 12 ft. to 14 ft., and of the eaves 5 ft. 
Two lines of ventilation, opening on either side at the ridge, are provided. 
With some growers, especially those whose greenhouses are located in shel- 
tered localities, where the summer temperature rises high, continuous lines 
of ventilation are provided under the eaves, upon both sides of the house, also 
upon the ends. This is very desirable where houses are planted as early 
as July or August, or where the planting is done in the spring and the 
plants grown in the houses throughout the summer. When the ventilators 
upon the sides and ends are thrown wide open, and those at the roof are 
also raised to the fullest extent, a much lower temperature can be main- 
tained than in houses where the ventilators at the sides and ends are 
absent. 

-V further reduction in temperature may be secured by liberally watering 
the walks and the ground underneath the benches, as evaporation of mois- 
ture will have a tendency to cool the atmosphere. In some instances, the 
writer has been able to maintain a temperature of two degrees lower under 
glass than the thermometer registered in the shade outside. This result 
may be more readily attained if the glass is shaded, or striped with a solu- 
tion of white lead, as described in Chapter IX. 

The importance of ample ventilation must not be lost sight of; never- 
theless, many successful growers, and especially those whose houses are 
located close by the sea shore, within reach of the salt fogs, as well as those 
whose locations are upon high altitudes, where their structures are exposed 
to strong breezes, do not find side ventilation necessary : in fact, claim 
that it is a detriment. But at Queens we have found it decidedly bene- 
ficial and desirable. 

Aspect of Forcing Houses 

All forcing houses should be located in such a position as will expose 
the plants contained therein fully to the rays of the sun during the day- 







."^ o 






Forcing Houses for Carnations 

time. TIk- houses sliould be locatetl away from buildings and tall trees, 
and from under the shadows of hills, or of any object that will shade 
them from the sun's rays during any portion of the day. The even- 
span house may be built with the ridge running north and south, but the 
three-quarter span, and short span to the south houses, should be built with 
the ridges running cast and west, so that the sun's rays will fall upon 




House of Carnation luicbantress in n Western Cnrnation 
Establishment 

the plants during the entire day. Some growers prefer to face the house 
a little to cast of south ; others, directly south ; others, again, a little west 
of south ; but so far as my experience goes, I have found that properly- 
constructed houses facing south, or a few points either east or west of 
south, give practically the same results. 

In building a range of glass, it is preferable to erect the houses some 

is6 



Forcing Houses for Carnations 

distance apart, so as to allow a free circulation of air around the houses- 
and through the side ventilators, as well as to prevent the shading of one 
house by another. Carnation ranges may be built in solid blocks, with 
gutters between ; but experience seems to have demonstrated that such wide 
blocks of houses will not give as good results, either in quality of bloom 
secured, or in quantity, as the individual houses situated sufficiently distant 
from each other to afford ample ventilation and avoid shading. This seems 
to be especially true where the plants are grown in the houses during the 
hot months. 

I have been asked many times to draw a plan lor the best type and 
size of a carnation house. My preference is for a house 30 ft. wide and 
from 200 ft. to 400 ft. long, containing four benches from 4 ft. 4 in. to 5 ft. 
in width, with a double line of ventilators hinged at the ridge, and a con- 
tinuous line of ventilation under the plate around both sides and at the 
ends. On page 151 is shown a cross-section of such a house, giving the di- 
mensions. This house should be glazed with double-thick, first-quality glass, 
free from all imperfections. The material of which the house is to be 
built should be either first-class, clear white pine, free from sap, Californi.i 
redwood, or the best quality of gulf cypress, which also should be free 
from sap. The woodwork should be thoroughly painted with not less than 
three coats of a first-class quality of white lead in which is mixed a fair 
proportion of zinc. The priming coat should be brushed on when the wood 
is thoroughly dry, so that it will take up the oil and bind the paint firmly 
to the wood. 

In building, all ends of the woodwork, wherever nailed together, or 
fitted into iron sockets, should be thoroughly brushed with the paint used 
in priming. I consider the iron framework far superior to wood, as it 
insures sufficient strength to withstand storms, and at the same time is 
light enough in structure to create the least shade, thus securing the 
lightest possible house. The sash bars should be as light as is consistent 
with sufficient strength to hold the glass firmly in place. The glass should' 
be well bedded in first-quality greenhouse glazing putty, after the second 
coat of paint has been applied to the woodwork, and should be securely 
nailed, tising preferably a glazing nail from one-half inch to three-quarters 
inch in length, according to the thickness of the bar. 

Throughout all greenhouse structures the importance of having the 
greatest strength in connection with lightness and the least shade, must 
not be lost sight of. and these conditions are best secured with the iron con- 
struction. Furthermore, if properly Iniilt. the iron structure will far outlast" 

157 



Forcinjj; Houses for Carnations 

the best wood franiewDrk. While the first cost of iron construction may 
be more than that of the wooden framework, the iron will, in the end, 
prove the cheaper, because of its superior lasting qualities. Again, the 
rapid destruction of the forests upon the American continent is surelv 
leading to a steady, permanent advance in the cost of lumber, and the time 
is not far distant when the iron framework will be fully as cheap, if not 
cheaper, than that constructed of w(X)d. 




Evcii-s/);in Propagating House, -0 Feet Wide 



While each grower may have his individual preference as to particular 
styles and fornix of houses, it is, nevertheless, a fact, that more depends 
upon the skill of the grower in the management of his plants than upon 
particular forms or styles of houses ; but a combination of the skillful grower 
and the better types of glass structure will insure the greatest success in 
commercial carnation s;rowing. 




Forcing Houses for Carnations 
New Galvanized Iron U-Bar Construction 

These houses are con- 
structed upon a princi- 
ple entirely new and a 
radical departure from 
the standard type of iron 
frame greenhouse. The 
foundation consists of 
iron posts bedded in con- 
crete, to which posts is 
bolted an angle-iron base 
extending entirely 
around the house. The 
bars which are bolted to 
this base extend to the 
ridge, and are there con- 
nected by iron brackets, 
which also support the 
ridge. There is no plate 
or gutter at the eaves, 
the bars being bent at that point and curved glass used. There are no rafters 
in the house, the entire structure being self-supporting, the U-bars and ties 
forming a trussed arch. The purlins can be spaced as far as 9 feet apart. 
The bar is very small, measuring 1% by 1}^ inches over all. The bars are 
made of steel, U-shaped, and filled with wood, which extends above the U- 
bar and forms a medium to which to attach the glass and prevents expan- 
sion and contraction of the metal bar. The glass is bedded in putty and rests 
on the edges of the U-bars, which are heavily galvanized. The sides of the 
house below the plate are of concrete. Practically the only wood exposed on 
the inside of the house is the doors, ridge and sash, while the only iron ex- 
posed on the outside of the house is the sills. 

Owing to the formation at the eaves it is claimed that this type of house 
frees itself of ice much quicker and more thoroughly than any other type, and 
the claim is also made that owing to the rigid construction and the manner in 
which the expansion and contraction are guarded against there is practically 
no glass breakage. The houses present an appearance of extreme lightness, 
strength and durability and the effect of the whole is exceedingly handsome. 
The construction is apparently exceptionally durable and the cost of repairs 
should be reduced to a minimum. 



New Galvanized Iron U-Bai 



159 



T 



CHAPTER XVI 

Bench Construction 

HE methods of building benches for growing carnations may be divided 
into four. The first type, and the one most commonly used, is 

The Ordinary Wooden Bench Built Upon Posts 

Carnation benches may be made of varying widths — from 3 to 
5 or 6 feet. In our practice we have finally decided upon a bench either 
4 ft, 4 in., or 4 ft. 8 in. in width. The 4 ft. 4 in. bench holds six plants in a 
row, and if the rows are planted twelve inches apart, the plants will have 
ample room and ventilation to fully develop their flowers. The 4 ft. 8 in. 
bench will also hold six plants in a row, and is built to accommodate varie- 
ties of extra vigorous growth. If the bench is made 5 ft. in width, six 
rows of plants will still fill it. If made 6 ft., another row may be added, but 
our experience has been that very little has been gained by adding the extra 
row of plants. The wide benches are also more inconvenient to handle and 
keep in order, and when picking the flowers. The bench, 4 ft. 4 in. to 5 ft. 
in width, gives practically as many flowers as the wider bench, and the 
blooms picked from plants in the center of the bench will be stronger 
stemmed, and of better quality, than those on very wide benches. The ordi- 
nary wooden bench is usually built of %-in. to i^-in. hemlock for the bot- 
toms, and the sides and bearers set upon cedar, locust or chestnut posts. 

Posts 

The best woods for posts are the yellow locust and red cedar. Next 
to these are the chestnut and the white cedar. Sassafras, if the sap forma- 
tion is shaved ofif, also makes an excellent post, which will last fully as long as 
white cedar, or chestnut, and probably longer. The hardy catalpa is also 
recommended as a lasting wood for posts. The bench should be so planned 
that when completed the top of the soil will be about two feet six inches 
above the ground. The posts should be set at least eighteen inches into the 
ground, and the bottom of the hole thoroughly rammed before setting the 



Bench Construction 

posts. It is also desirable to set the end of the post upon a good hard brick. In 
placing the posts, be sure and tamp the soil thoroughly about the bottom, 
and fill up the hole solid, so that when finished, the f)Ost stands perfectly 
firm. The following method of setting posts has proved very successful : 
Make up a rough concrete, or grouting, of broken stone, or clinkers, mixed 
with Rosendale cement : dig the post hole about six inches deeper than 




End of Wooden Bench 



usual ; fill up the bottom of this with grouting to the depth of six inches, 
and thoroughly ram down so as to make a solid foundation. The post is 
then set in position, and held, while a few shovelfuls of the grouting are 
filled around the bottom, and again rammed. The remaining space is then 
filled up with soil, which is rammed until the post stands perfectly solid. 



Bench Construction 

When this grouting sets, the post is held firmly, and will not settle, and 
cannot be moved in any ordinary manner. It is desirable to set in this man- 
ner only such posts as are intended to remain permanently, as it is quite 
difficult to remove them in after-years. The posts should be set four feet 
apart from the centers, so that, when the bearers are nailed on, a i6-ft. board 
will just cover four sections. 

\\'c use 2^ J x4 in. hemlock for bearers, which are sawed, as shown in 
cut, page 162, illustrating the manner of constructing the bench. The 
bottom of the bench can be made of hemlock strips, which may run from 
four inches to six inches in width, and one and one-quarter inches thick. 
These should be nailed firmly with tenpenny nails so that they will not warp, 
and should have spaces about a quarter of an inch in width between each 
strip. .\ 2'_. in.x4 in. hemlock scantling, re-sawed, makes a first-class strip 
for this purpose, and a ij4 in. x 6 in. cypress or hemlock strip may be used 
for sides. When this bench is finished, the bottom and sides should receive 
a coat of Princess ]\Ietallic Paint, and the bench should not be filled with soil 
until the paint is dry. 

Solid Beds 

An old method of growing carnations still practiced by some florists 
is in solid beds. While this type of bed has many disadvantages, it has the 
advantage of carrving the crop of carnation blooms in good condition farther 
into the summer months than the ordinarv raised bench. But during the 




:;ft- 



1 



-4 






,4, E— Posts C—Soi'l 

, D — 2-inch Plank F — Drainage 

G — Ground Line 
Cross Section of Solid Bed 



winter months it is apt to be slow^ ; that is, the flowers open slowly, and 
the crop comes late. For this reason solid beds have generally been aban- 
doned. Many varieties of carnations also burst badly when grown in solid 



1^5 



Bench Construction 

beds, that can be obtained in perfection upon raised benches. SoHd beds 
are also more difficult to water, and the soil is more apt to become sour and 
soddened than is the case with the ordinary style of raised bench. 

A very good solid bed may be made by setting posts the same distance 
apart as recommended in the case of the wooden bench ; but the posts should 
not stand more than eighteen inches above the surface of the soil. Then nail 
strong hemlock planks, one and one-quarter inches in thickness upon the 
sides of the post, as shown in the drawing. Now put in about six inches of 
rough cinders and clinkers, or broken stone, for drainage, and upon this place 
one foot of good soil. Excellent carnations can be grown on such a bench ; 
but, as I have formerly said, in results it has, with us, proved inferior to 
raised benches ; consequently, it has been discarded. 

The Ventilated Tile Bench 

This is a style of bench which is being used with great success b}' many 
growers. It consists in making the bottom of the bench of round, porous drain 
tile, running from three to four inches in diameter. These tiles may 
be supported upon timbers, or iron bearers ; or a 4-in. brick wall may be 
built for the sides, the space between these walls being filled with soil, thor- 
oughly 'rammed down, the tile laid on top of this, and the brick wall con- 
tinued above the tiles to the height necessary to secure the proper depth of 
soil. 

The advantages of such a bench are: First, durabilit}-, as the bench 
is practically indestructible, if properly constructed and used. Second, a 
good circulation of air is secured under the soil through the tile. This allows 
warm air to pass under the plants, and gives a steady, but modified, bottom 
heat. Another advantage in these benches is, that the tiles retain moisture 
to a considerable extent, and also absorb surplus moisture from the soil, so 
that a more even and healthful moist condition is secured throughout the 
entire mass of soil than is possible with the ordinary style of wooden bench. 

The Sub-Irrigation Bench 

Much attention has been, and will in the future, be attracted by the 
use of the sub-irrigation bench, which may be constructed either upon the 
principle of the raised bench or of the solid bed. In general, raised benches 
are more desirable than solid beds, and this seems to be particularly true 
in the case of the sub-irrigation bench. The distinguishing feature of the 
latter is a shallow water-tight tank, which may be constructed in various- 

164 



Bench Construction 

ways, and of different materials. This tank is filled to about half an inch 
above the sides with either specially constructed porous tile, or soft porous 
brick, so arranged that there are numerous canals running between the 
bricks over the bottom of the bench, so that when water is introduced into 
the bottom of the tank it will rapidly spread by means of these canals over 
the entire bench bottom. The bricks, or porous tile, will absorb this water 




Iron Bearer for Suh-lrrigation Bench 



rapidly, and pass it gradually upward through the soil, and in this manner 
the water reaches the plants by means of capillary attraction and evapora- 
tion. 

We have constructed a number of sub-irrigation benches upon the fol- 
lowing plan : Yellow locust or red cedar posts from four inches in diameter are 
used. The hole is dug to a depth of a little over two feet, and about six inches 
of coarse grout, made of cement and clinkers, or broken stone, is thrown to 
the bottom and thoroughly rammed. The post is then set in the desired 
position, and the hole filled about half way with the coarse grouting, which 
is rammed as the filling proceeds. The soil is then filled to the top. A 
post set in this way is absolutely fixed, and there is no settling or moving. 
The posts are about four feet apart from center to center, and upon the top of 
these a yellow-pine bearer, six inches wide and two inches thick, running the 
full length of the bench, is set on edge and firmly nailed. Into this bearer slots 
are cut twenty-four inches apart, which are sufficiently wide and deep to hold 
the tongue of a 2y2-m. T-iron. These T-irons are cut 4 ft. 2 in. in length 
for a 4 ft. 4 in. bench, and 4 ft. 6 in. for a 4 ft. 8 in. bench. Upon the end of 
each iron is securely bolted a knee, as shown in the drawing. These irons are 
placed in position, one iron in each slot. Then they are lined up so that the 
iron knees will stand in a perfectly straight and regular row. These irons are 
then securely nailed or screwed to the bearers. Terra cotta tiles, one inch in 
thickness, seven inches wide, and twenty-four inches long, are now laid upon 
the T-irons. The end of each tile will catch one and one-quarter inch upon 
the iron. The sides of the tank are formed by angular tiles. (The shape of 

16? 



Bench Construction 

these tiles can best be seen by referring to the cut on page 167.) In laying 
these tiles, they are bound together by cementing the ends as fast as they are 
laid. 

A layer of Portland cement, three-quarters of an inch in thickness, is 
flowed over the tile, forming a complete water-tight lining. The material is 
made by using the best quality of Portland cement. We have preferred the 
Dyckerhoff Portland cement for this purpose, as we have had better results 
from it than from other brands thus far tested. Great care must be used in 
preparing this cement, the projiortions being two parts of pure, clean, fine 




.-I, U -Cy]irc 
B—6 in. Soil 
C—Wnter duinls 
D-Porous Tile 
F — Iron Knee 
G — Tee Iron Bearer 
H — '2 ineb Cement 
LinijiLf 



I—Terr:, Cottn Tile 
J — Yellow Pine Bearer 
K — Locust Post 
L — Granting 
M—(^,nntntl Line 
X — Flow Pipe 
()— Return Pipe 



Cross Section Suh-Irrinntimi licncli 



sharp sand to one part of cement. The sand and cement are mixed when 
dry, and are then moistened by the addition of water until of the proper 
consistency. While the cement is setting it will be necessary to "trowel 
it down," as masons call it : tliat is, to smooth over the cement several times 
with the trowel. This is done in order to prevent fine cracks or crevices 
working into the cement. 

At every twenty feet an expansion joint composed of sheet lead worked 
into the bench is made. A cement bench will contract and expand with the 

166 



Bench Construction 

variations of heat and cold in about the same proportion that iron will con- 
tract and expand. If the contraction and expansion are not provided for by 
means of expansion joints, many cracks will come into the benches at various 
points, proving a great annoyance and detriment to the successful working 
of sub-irrigation. By means of these expansion joints the cracks are avoided, 
and the bench can be maintained perfectly tight. The sides of the bench are 
composed of cypress strips one and one-quarter inches in thickness, and six 
inches wide, which are fastened firmly to the iron knees by ineans of round- 
headed tinned screws. (See drawinsr. which shows the construction of the 




Suh-Irn'gation Bench 
Tiles in place ready for cementing 

sub-irrigation bench better than any description can convey.) It is our prac- 
tice to build these benches in sections about fifty feet in length, the ends of the 
benches, and the division between the sections, being made by filling in with 
hard brick, set in the same cement as is used for the bottom. In the center 
of each division an inch pipe is fitted in the bottom of the bench by means of 
a collar. This pipe is dropped through a hole made in the terra cotta, and is 
held firmly in place by short lugs. In making a bench, a wooden plug is 
put into the end of the pipe and the cement is run around the plug and over 
the iron collar. When the cement hardens, this holds the pipe firmly. The 
wooden plug is then removed, and in troweling down, the cement is finished 
with a slope toward the hole, so that water will naturally drain off the bottom 
of the bench through the pipe. All sub-irrigation benches should be built 



Bench Construction 

so that they may be used either for surface watering or sub-irrigation. When 
used for surface watering, the valves are left open, and the soil is watered 
the same as with any method of surface watering. The surplus water will 
drain off through the valves. 

Apart from any consideration of sub-irrigation, these benches have 
the following advantages : thev are extremely durable, and will last thirty 




Sub- Irrigation Benches 

k'cndy iar Irrif^atiiig Tile — Showing wanner (if building on sloping ground 

years or more with proper care, and there will be very little expense in 
renewing and repairing them. If yellow locust or red cedar posts are used, 
they, when set as above described, will also last fully as long as the bench. 
The yellow-pine bearer, which is thoroughly painted on all sides and the 
ends, the slots in which the iron bearers rest being also painted, will likewise 

i68 



Bench Construction 

last as long as the other wxiodeii parts. It will be best to paint the iron 
bearers, as well as the iron knees, with at least one coat of Princess Metallic 
Paint. If two coats can be given, so much the better. The wooden sides, 
composed of cypress, if painted with Princess Metallic Paint, will last sev- 
eral years, and can be easily renewed by taking out the screws and putting 
on a new piece. The iron knees should be occasionally painted ; at least, 
whenever the sides are renewed. Ordinary stove bolts, with countersunk- 
heads, are used in holding the iron knees to the bearers. 

This bench is a better one for growing plants under the surface-watering 
system than is the ordinary wooden bench. It possesses one cardinal advan- 
tage, and that is the mass of moist brick which underlies the soil. This 
brick serves as excellent drainage, and it also holds the heat which arises 
from the steam pipes, giving it off to the soil in a modified condition ; and 
when the steam pipes are shut off during the daytime this heat is still being 
slowly passed ofif and upward through the soil. Upon benches constructed 
in this manner we have been able to secure better average results than those 
obtained from any other style of bench which we have as yet used ; but 
under the ordinary surface-watering system I am of the opinion that the 
ventilated tile bench first described will be practically as good. The disad- 
vantage of this sub-irrigation bench is its first cost, as it is probably more 
expensive to build than any of those mentioned. Such a bench will' cost 
from one to two dollars per running foot, according to the price which the 
builder must pay for his posts and iron. 




l6y 



CHAPTER XVII 

Sub-Irrigation 

ABOUT the year 1890 the attention of florists was aroused by a new 
method of watering greenhouse plants grown in benches, which was 
originated by the Ohio Experiment Station, and called "sub-irriga- 
tion." \'arious modifications of the original system have been evolved by 
other experiment stations, chiefly those of Wisconsin, New Hampshire, and 
Indiana. Briefly described, this system consists of introducing water under 
the soil, either by the use of porous tiles laid at intervals throughout the 
soil, or b}' constructing the bench so as to form a shallow, water-tight tank, 
in the bottom of which are placed p>orous tiles of various forms : the prin- 
ciple in each case being that these tiles form a number of canals, through 
which water is introduced to the bottom of the bench, under the soil, and 
is absorbed by the tiles, and passes upward and evaporates through the sur- 
face of the soil by capillary attraction. This method of watering plants 
has been used to some extent by the forcers of vegetables with con- 
siderable success. It seems to be gradually gaining ground and coming 
steadil}- into use, although its universal adoption will be very much hin- 
dered by the large expense attending the construction of practical sub- 
irrigation benches. 

Sub-irrigation exists in a state of nature wherever water is either stand- 
ing or moving underneath the soil ; and it also takes place at the banks of 
rivers or streams by the percolation of water upward through the soil by 
capillary attraction. It is probable that a considerable percentage of the 
fertility of river bottoms, or of lands lying along, and contiguous to, constant 
streams of water, is due in some measure to the steady source of moisture 
furnished the adjoining soil by capillary attraction, herein named sub-irriga- 
tion. 

The success of the growers of celery in the famous celery districts of 
Michigan is due in a large degree to sub-irrigation, as the best celery grounds 
are reclaimed swamps, or low lands lying along creek bottoms, which have 
within a few feet underneath the surface a constant flow of water, which 



Sub-Irrigation 

percolates upward through the soil, aft'ording the roots of the plant a steady 
supply of moisture. It is upon such lands that the finest crops of celery 
are grown. 

In many parts of Europe, notablv in Holland, and to a small extent in 
the cauliflower districts near Erfurt, Germany, crops are grown largely upon 
sub-irrigated land. This is particularly true in the reclaimed districts of 




Sab-Irrigation Benches 
Testing the Cement Tanks for leaks 

Holland, which produce such enormous crops of fine bulbs and such quan- 
tities of various plants and shrubs. In these districts, which lie beneath the 
sea level, and which would be overflowed were not the water kept down by 
a system of pumps in constant operation throwing the water over the 
dykes into the sea, plants never suffer from lack of moisture, as within a 



Sub-Irrij^ation 

short distance beneath the surface a continuous supply of moisture exists ; 
the result being that in Holland many classes of bulbs, shrubs and trees 
are grown better and cheaper than in almost any other portion of the globe. 

Sub-irrigation has been applied to the growing of carnations to a con- 
siderable extent, and has been practiced by the author at Queens for the 
past seven years. The results of the experiments carried on during that 
period have been rather in favor of the sub-irrigation bench as compared 
with surface-watered benches. The chief objection which has been found 
to the former benches has been their first cost, as they are rather too expen- 
sive for general use by florists with limited capital. This, to some extent, 
is largely overcome by the permanency of the structures once they are 
installed, as a sub-irrigation bench, properly built, will last as long as ten 
ordinary wooden benches, and in the end cost considerably less. The other 
objection is that while better results can be secured if sub-watered benches 
are properly handled by skillful growers who have had experience with 
them, the work requires more judgment and a higher degree of skill. This is 
largely offset by the fact that, with plants growing upon sub-irrigation 
benches, a grower can care for the watering of two or three times the area of 
bench surface that he can handle on the surface-watered bench, as much less 
labor is needed in watering; and growers who have once mastered the man- 
agement of such benches prefer them to the surface-watered ones. It may be 
said, however, that in the hands of a careless grower the sub-irrigation bench 
is more dangerous than those surface-watered, for the reason that when once 
the bench is over-watered it takes a long time to dry out properly ; whereas 
with the surface-watered bench, even if it is over-watered, the drainage 
from the bottom and the evaporation from the top, and the stronger degree 
of heat to which the bottom of the bench is subjected, cause the water to 
evaporate much faster and the soil to dry out in much less time than is 
the case with an over-watered sub-irrigation bench. 

The soil in sub-irrigation benches is generall}^ in a better mechanical 
condition than in a surface-watered bench, providing the watering has been 
done with proper skill and judgment. As before said, the danger with the 
sub-irrigation bench lies in over-saturing the soil with water, thereby 
destroying the young feeding roots. However, if the sub-irrigation bench 
is treated properly, the plants will not only make a generally better growth 
than upon the surface-watered bench, but the stems will be longer, the 
flowers larger and of better substance, and the crop will be increased a 
notable percentage. Where sub-irrigation benches are operated as they 
should be. the lower portion of the soil becomes filled with roots, and these 

172 



Sub-Irrigation 

will even extend down through the crevices of the brick or tile, frequently 
partially filling the water canals. It would seem to be unnecessary to state 
that a sub-irrigation bench should not be intrusted to the care of a novice 
in growing carnations, but should always be in charge of some skilled 
grower who has had experience and practice in its management. 

When sub-irrigation was first broached to carnation growers it was 
thought by some that it would prove a preventive of all diseases, and that 




Section of Sub-Irrigation Bench 

Showing Carnations growing under Sub-Irrigation treatment — Note how roots 

extend through soil to door of bench and crawl over bench tioor 

we would not be troubled with such insects as red spider ; but this has not 
been proved by actual use, for red spider, once introduced upon plants in 
a sub-irrigation bench, propagates there the same as upon those grown 
upon other types of benches. But it may be said in favor of the sub- 
irrigation bench that ]ilants growing thereon are in a stronger, more healthful) 



173 



Sub-Irrigation 

condition, and for this reason may be better able to resist and overcome 
the attacks of certain classes of insects. As a rule, plants are less afifected 
by stem-rot upon sub-irrigation benches than upon surface-watered ones, 
but this cannot be stated as absolute. 

In practice, it has been found that the soil upon the sub-irrigation bench 




Sub-Irrv^ntion Tile 
Showing Cnrnatiiin roots growing uroiiiiit ami attached to hottoni nt tile 



is maintained in a more open, friable condition than upon the surface- 
watered bench. This is readily understood, because the water evaporating 
and passing upward through the soil has a tendency to lift or lighten the 
soil ; whereas in the surface-watered bench, the water, being poured upon 

174 



Sub-Irrigation 

the top of the soil generally from a hose, and in considerable quantity, passes 
downward and compacts the soil, so that upon a surface-watered bench that 
has been some months in operation the soil frequently becomes almost as 
hard as a brick when dried. 

There are a number of systems of constructing sub-irrigation benches. 




Sub-Irrigation Bench 

Showing manner oi laying Terra Cotta foundation and protecting 

supporting eohimns 

One of them is described in Chapter X\ I., which deals with bench con- 
struction. Several thousand running feet of these benches have been in 
operation at the Cottage Gardens for several years past, and have, as a rule, 
produced better average crops of flowers, both as to quantity and quality, 
than have been obtained upon the surface-watered bench with the same varie- 



Sub-Irrijration 

ties of plants, grown under approximately the same conditions. In some 
instances the product of the sub-irrigation bench has been nearly one-third 
greater in money value than was secured from the surface-watered bench, 
from the same variety grown in the same soil and in the same house ; that is 
to say, as near as it is possible to obtain the same conditions. 

I have not been able to determine that plants grown upon sub-irrigation 
benches are more exempt from disease and insects than those grown upon 
surface-watered benches, excepting, as before stated, that the plants may 
be in a more vigorous growing condition, and thereby able to withstand 
and throw off the attacks of insects and the various plant diseases. A better 
average growth will usually be secured from the sub-irrigation bench where 
it is properly handled, for the reason that underneath the soil there is always 
a mass of moist brick, which gives off the water very slowly to the soil 
when the bench passes to the dry side. This, of course, affords a more 
constant and even supply of moisture for the plant's use, and renders impos- 
sible the drying out of the bench soil from underneath, which sometimes 
occurs in surface-watered benches, especially in very cold weather, when 
high firing is necessary. One of the principal advantages that seems to 
arise from the use of sub-irrigation benches is that the mass of cement and 
tile at the bottom of the bench absorbs the heat from the steam pipes and 
passes it gradually upward through the soil, so that where high firing 
occurs this shield of brick or tile between the hot steam pipes and the roots 
of the plants is a decided benefit. Again, when steam is turned off, these 
tiles remain warm, and continue to give off a moderate heat to the soil ; and, 
in my opinion, this even, moist condition at the bottom of the bench, and 
steady, modified heating of the soil, tend to a more regular and stronger 
growth of the plants, as well as a greater production of flowers. This is 
shown by the fact that plants upon sub-irrigation benches usually produce 
flowers with stems three to four inches longer, and from 20 to 25 per cent, 
stronger, than those obtained from plants growing on surface-watered 
benches. 



176 








^ \ 



FANCY FLAKHli 

PLATE III. CARNATION PROSPERITY (MILES) 



CHAPTER XVIII 

Greenhouse Heating 

As a rule, the florist should consult a practical heating engineer when 
installing his heating plant. Every greenhouse establishment fur- 
nishes its own problems and peculiarities in heating. These can be 
Ix'st studied out and provided for by a practical man experienced in heat- 
ing problems. For this reason I will not attempt to give advice as to laying 
out and installing heating apparatus, but will briefly describe the most im- 
portant systems in general use among florists. In writing this chapter I 
have been ably assisted by Mr. E. S. Titus, of Hempstead, Long Island, 
who has had ample experience in installing greenhouse heating apparatus, 
and who erected the one in operation at the Cottage Gardens. 

Modern greenhouse heating is accomplished by two systems, steam and 
hot-water, and these are varied in several ways. 

Hot Water Systems 

There are a number of hot-water systems which are more or less distinct 
in character. Three of these are widely used among florists. 

The Open Expansion Tank Method 

The first to be described is the old system, with open expansion tanks, 
which is operated under low pressure. In the beginning, a type of heater made 
of cast iron, technically called a one-piece boiler, was almost universally used. 
This type of heater, although somewhat crude in design, was fairly efficient. 
The radiating surface employed was made of a four-inch heavy cast-iron 
pipe. The expansion of water was taken care of by numerous open cast- 
iron tanks connected to the highest and most distant points of the heating 
pipes. These tanks also formed a medium for the liberation of air from 
the water contained in the apparatus. 

On account of the low expansion tanks this system necessarily required 
a low head of water, and correspondingly low water temperature, the 
actual boiling point being only slightly above the normal, or 212 degrees 
Fahr. In practice, a radiation temperature of 150 degrees is rarely exceeded. 

177 



Greenhouse Heating 

In recent years a type of heater, made of cast iron, in sections, or the so-called 
sectional boiler, has been employed quite largely. Notwithstanding its 
crudeness, and the cumbersome appearance of this system, it has enjoyed 
a remarkable popularity among florists, and its simplicity of operation, and 
general durability, have kept it in the front rank for heating florists' estab- 
lishments of moderate size. 

The Pressure Method 

In the second, a "pressure system," with open tanks, which are set 
from twenty-five to forty feet above the heater, two-inch and two and one- 
half-inch wrought pipe is generally used. The practical working of this 
system differs in reality from the first only in that the expansion tank is set 
at a higher elevation, thus increasing the pressure and boiling point. 

-Assuming the water line in the e.xpansion tank to be thirty-five feet 
above the top of the heater, a pressure of fifteen pounds per square inch 
in the boiler would be obtained, thereby raising the boiling point to 250 
degrees Fahr. While the old style of one-piece heater, in some cases, is 
not sufficiently strong to safely withstand this increased pressure, the sectional 
boilers possess ample strength to do so. 

The cast-iron sectional boiler is so well known that little comment 
thereon is necessary. It is efficient, fairly economical and durable, and safe 
as well. Wrought-iron or steel tubular boilers of several different types 
are also largely used in the hot-water system. The two most frequently 
met with are the horizontal-return tubular and the firebo.N: boiler, of loco- 
motive or similar type. 

Sectional Boilers 

A sectional boiler for hot-water heating should be designed with the 
greatest care. If the sections are bolted together, the bolts should in no 
case pass through the water spaces, but through the legs, outside of the 
"water spaces. It is very important in hot-water apparatus that friction 
should be reduced to the minimum. It has been found by actual experience 
that the efficiency of some apparatus is much impaired by these bolts. If 
the sections are connected together by drums and nipples, particular atten- 
tion should be given to the size of these, for if the openings in the con- 
necting drums are unduly small the circulation will be retarded, and this 
means a serious impairment in the efficiency of the heater. This type of 
boiler should have about one square inch of grate surface for every 1.3 square 

178 



Greenhouse Heating 

feet of radiating surface. If a fireman is on duty all night, the proportion 
of radiating surface can be somewhat increased. 

Firebox or Locomotive Boiler 

The "firebox boiler" has many friends among florists. Its efficiency 
is fair. It is easy to fire, and is safe. It has, however, some weak points. 
The legs of a locomotive firebox have much surface exposed to the atmos- 
phere, and, in consequence, are very vulnerable to corrosive effects. A green- 
house boiler is out of commission about half the year. During this period 
of rest the firebox is in a condition of extreme exposure. If the grates are 
left in, with an accumulation of ashes either on the grate or in the pit, in 
contact with the boiler legs, they will absorb moisture from the air and 
mcite active corrosion wherever they touch the boiler. A little care would 
practically obviate these defects, but the average florist stops firing as soon 
as warm weather renders it vmnecessary, and probably does not look at 
his heating apparatus again until the approach of winter. He who neglects 
a locomotive firebo.x boiler in this manner will soon find in it numerous 
holes. 

While the circulation of water in the locomotive type of boiler is not 
ideal, it is, however, fairly good. In this type of boiler there should be 
not less than three openings, or inlets, for return water; that is, one inlet 
in each of the three sides of the firebox, which openings should be near 
the bottom, or below the grate. It will improve the circulation if these 
openings are connected into one trunk. 

Horizontal Tubular Boilers 

The horizontal tubular boiler is probably the most efficient, and the 
safest heater for general florists' use. It should be set higher at the front 
than at the back. This elevation should be not less than twelve nor more 
than twenty-four inches. The boiler should be built longer than the regu- 
lar type. It should have no drum on top. The tubes should be of iron, and 
not steel. The shell would undoubtedly last longer if made of iron rather 
than steel, but it is now practically impossible to build boiler shells of iron, 
as iron plates cannot be had except after months of waiting, and then at 
a prohibitory cost. 

During the inactive season steel tubes corrode much faster than iron, 
for which reason the increased cost of iron tubes may well be afforded. 
This type of boiler, which is the ideal one for hot-water circulation, is effi- 

•79 



Greenhouse Heating 

cient, safe, and economical. The inlet should be in the bottom, at the 
rear end. The hole should be large, and reinforced with a wrought flange, 
riveted on. The outlet should be of the same size as the inlet, and situated 
in the top, as close to the front end as practicable. In this case there is a 
natural flow of water from the inlet at the lower end of the boiler to the 
dutlet at the upper end; a natural rising of the expanding water through 
an unobstructed space, with an easy flow, like the current of a river. In 
all the other types this flow is more or less obstructe<l. 

Practical tests made to ascertain the amount of friction in different 
types of boilers have demonstrated that the horizontal tubular boiler, set 
as above described, with a carefully-designed radiating system, will respond 
readil}' to hard firing, and show at high temperature a difference of not 
mure than three degrees Fahr. between the outward flow and the return. 
The writer has never been able to get anywhere near as good a result in 
any sectional or firebox boiler. The florist seeking a hot-water heater can 
make no serious mistake in selecting any one of the three boilers described,, 
as all do good work. 

The Closed or Perkins Method 

We will nciw consider the third system (if hot-water heating, namely, 
the so-called closed, or I'erkins method. This dift'ers from the other twO' 
alluded to above by having an increased pressure. In this system, which 
is sealed tight, the usual installation includes an expansion tank filled with 
air. After the apparatus has been fired sufficiently to e.xpel all the air from 
the water, the entire apparatus is sealed air-tight. The air in the expan- 
sion tank provides an elastic medium which allows for expansion of the 
water contained, when heated. There is but one point gained — if it be a 
gain — and that is, the increased pressure will allow of a higher water tem- 
perature in the radiating coils. The entire apparatus is vulnerable to leaks, 
and in practice is very complicated, and there would seem to be no excuse,, 
or reason, for its employment by florists. The second system described will 
allow of a water temy)crature of 212 degrees and over. Few florists care 
for more. 

The Pump Method 
Before passing the subject of hot-water heating it may be interesting 
to mention another type of apparatus which may be adapted to such installa- 
tions. I allude to a system in which the circulation of hot water is impelled 
bv mechanical force, such as a steam or belt-driven pump, which may be 
operated either hy an engine, an electric motor, or a water motor. In the 

180 



Greenhouse Heating 

writer's opinion there are many features about a hot-water apparatus of 
this type which especially commend it for the heating of large greenhouse 
establishments. Inasmuch as the factor of friction in the boiler and pipe 
circulation is overcome by mechanical force, there will be no longer the 
necessity to hold fast to the large water mains and runs which are abso- 
lutely essential to every hot-water heating apparatus in which the circu- 
lation is impelled by heat and the resulting expansion of water. If we 
assume that the difference in temperature between the outflow and the 
inflow of the boiler is less than 19 degrees Fahr., say, outflow 180 degrees 
and inflow 170 degrees, a cubic foot of water would increase in weight 
22-100, or an increase of .0036 per cent, per pound. Assuming the appa- 
ratus to contain one ton of water at the point of entrance to the boiler, this 
ton would be increased by 7.2 pounds. Allow a fall of six feet in the appa- 
ratus, and we have a power of 43.2 pounds to keep one ton of water in 
motion, to overcome the friction in the heater and a long run of pipe con- 
taining many short bends. 

It is this small and insignificant force which the engineer has to hus- 
band so carefully in order to make the hot-water job efficient and suc- 
cessful. The pump, as a compelling force, does away with all this refine- 
ment of calculation, and he is free to use such small radiating pipes as one 
and one-quarter-inch, one and one-half-inch, or two-inch, if he so elects. - 
The mains may be materially reduced in size. In short, we have now an 
apparatus as compact and neat in appearance as any steam system can be; 
a system absolutely noiseless, and under almost perfect control. The heater 
might be managed to maintain automatically a boiler temperature propor- 
tioned to the requirements caused by variations in the outdoor tempera- 
ture. The operator controls the heat in a block of houses by regulating 
the speed of the pump. The heat in each individual house, or side of a 
house, is regulated by opening or closing the valves on the runs, which 
should be gate valves. 

In a layout on this system, pipes could be run practically regarcUess 
of height in pitch in relation to boiler, which in the other three systems 
must be carefully considered. It must, however, be admitted that such a 
system leads slightly away from the highest economy, for having started 
out to overcome friction by mechanical force, one must consider that this 
increase of friction means an absorption of heat units from the furnace ; 
that is to say, whatever excess of friction there is must be measured by its 
equivalent in coal. In the opinion of tlie writer this loss is so slight, and 



Greenhouse Heating 

the general efficiency and easy control of the plant would be so much 
increased, that such loss should not be considered as a bar to its use. 

Such a plant could be made a combination steam and water installa- 
tion, using steam in cold weather and water in mild weather. As a tem- 
perature of 200 to 230 degrees Fahr. could be readily maintained throughout 
the entire radiation surface by water, there seems to be little reason for 
making steam a factor in it. There would, theoretically, be less friction in 
the steam, though air valves and joints would bring the two systems about 
on a level as to economy. 

With care and watchfulness, a temperature of 280 degrees would be 
entirely practicable at fifty pwunds pressure. Given an installation of this 
design, to start with you have an apparatus perfectly adapted to all weath- 
ers ; in mild weather, a slow fire and a slow movement of the pump ; in 
cold weather, a rapid fire and a more rapid movement of the pump. 

In this installation the pipes could be of the same size throughout as 
with the steam system, with the material advantage that the mains could 
be run practically at will, and with less regard to location, than with the 
usual gravity system. With the usual valves, the fireman would have per- 
fect control over his entire system. The loss of heat units in the power 
required to move the water through the apparatus would probably be no 
more than is absorbed by the pump in lifting and returning the water of 
condensation in the positive return steam apparatus. 

Steam Heating Systems 

There are three systems of steam heating which are common among 
florists: First, the Gra-i'ify System; second, the Positii'e Return System; 
third, the I'aeiiiim System. 

The Gravity Method 

The gravity system, as its name implies, is dependent on the weight 
of its condensed steam, or water, for the proper return of such condensa- 
tion to the boiler, and is, perhaps, the most desirable of all systems for the 
average florist. Indeed, this is the only steam-heating system which fully 
meets the necessities and numerous exactions of the florist who does not 
employ a night fireman, his requirement being a simple apparatus which 
needs comparatively little attention, and which should, in a measure, be 
automatic in action. The radiating surface should be readily controlled by 
the operator. The boiler should be easy to fire, and the entire apparatus 
durable, with no features in construction likely to need frequent or costly 



Greenhouse Heating 

repairs. The gravity system of steam heating fully meets the above-men- 
tioned requirements. The apparatus is made automatic by draft regulators, 
which are controlled by steam pressure. The regulators are adjusted to 
different pressures, allowing a change of steam temperature to suit the 
weather. Here the automatic feature ends. The fireman must do the rest, 
keeping a clean fire, and replenishing with coal at the proper intervals. The 
proper distribution of heat must be controlled by opening or closing the 
valves until the required temperature is obtained. 

The installation of such a plant is comparatively simple, and does not 
require more than ordinary mechanical knowledge. The constructor should 
carefully consider the following salient points in making his layout for the 
job: The boilers should be set with care, on solid foundations. A sub- 
stantial chimney, with dimensions in proportion to the size of the grate, 
should be provided. A good draught is of the utmost importance, as no 
efficient heating apparatus can be maintained with a poor draught. The 
steam mains should rise directly from the boiler, and pitch away from it, 
and the size of the mains should be in proportion to the amount of radiating 
surface carried in the coils. 

There should be no deviation from the rule which disallows any oppo- 
sition of steam and water currents. All water of condensation should travel 
in the same direction as the steam, and never against it. The lowest parts, 
or ends, of the steam runs should not be less than twenty-four inches above 
the water line of the boiler. If forty-eight inches can be obtained, so much 
the better. The check valve on the return main at the boiler should be 
of the best construction, and easy of operation, be kept properly cleaned 
and in order. The radiation pipes are usually one and one-quarter inch 
or one and one-half inch. The steamfitter should be careful to allow for 
expansion of the pipes by heat ; otherwise, frequent leaks will occur at points 
where this expansive strain exerts itself most. 

The Positive Return Method 

The second, or positive return system, differs from the first in that 
the water of condensation is returned to the boiler by positive means, such 
as a steam pump or injector. This system does not differ materially in 
layout from the first, except that the factor of friction is not so important, 
and the size of the steam mains is not so arbitrary. The steam mains may 
be considerably smaller than in the ordinary gravity system. 

There are a number of plans employed in the installation of this sys- 
tem. One plan is to carry a boiler pressure of one and one-half to ten 

I S3 



Greenhouse Heatinjy 

IX)unds, and also some other power, such as an auxiHary boiler at higher 
pressure, or electricity, to drive the pump which returns the water of con- 
densation. In some cases the water of condensation is conveyed to an open 
well, or reservoir, and from there into the boiler. Another plan, and a 
more common one, is to carry the return water directly into a receiver at 
the suction end of the pump. If a steam pump is used, it is of a special 
construction for this purpose, and works automatically, forcing a constant 
stream of return water into the boiler, the volume of which will vary with 
the weather. This w-ater is frequently made to return into the receiver of 
the pump relieved of pressure ; that is, after the water reaches the receiver, 
any steam vapor which collects in the receiver is allowed to escape. This 
plan makes a return water temperature of more than 212 degrees Fahr. 
impossible, and the usual temperature is much below this. For reasons 
which will be given further on, any plan which reduces the pressure on 
return water, between the radiation jiipes and the boiler, is not favored by 
the writer. 

A higher boiler pressure, viz., from twenty-five to fifty pounds, is more 
commonly employed in operating the positive return system. The boiler 
pressure must be sufficient to properly work the steam pump. If a lower 
pressure is desired, the steam cylinder of the pump must be made larger. 

With this increased pressure, an auxiliary boiler is not required. The 
return pump is connected direct to the boiler. It is not desirable to carry 
this high pressure into the radiation pipe. A reducing valve is a neces- 
sary adjunct to the boiler in this system. This valve is entirely automatic, 
and can be adjusted to any pressure from one to ten pounds, or more, at 
the will of the operator, to suit the requirements of the weather. 

This method of positive return, as applied to steam heating, is adapted 
to large plants only. It is not contended that it is the equal in economy to 
the so-called gravity system. There are inherent in the system certain 
features which, in spite of the best efforts of the engineer to prevent it, 
absorb a considerable number of heat units, which the gravity system is 
not guilty of. To start w'ith, there is a slight friction loss in the reducin!g 
valve ; then, after the return water reaches the pump, there is still another 
loss, for power is required to drive this pump. Kotwithstanding this slight 
loss, which cannot be entirely eliminated, the positive system is quite popu- 
lar with florists. It is not within the writer's knowledge that any florist 
who has used it has condemned it on account of poor economy. To attain 
the best results from this method the return water should be conveyed direct 
to the receiver nf the inuup without an\' diminution of pressure; that is, 

184 



Greenhouse Heating 

there should be no relief of pressure in the receiver, but full pressure of the 
radiation pipes should be maintained, less such slight loss as may occur 
from friction in the radiation pipes. Assuming that in zero weather a 
pressure of ten pounds of steam is being carried in the radiation pipes, 
the return water, if conveyed to the receiver of the pump at that pressure, 
will have a temperature of about 240 degrees Fahr. 

If, in an emergency, a pressure of twenty pounds is used, there will be 
in the receiver a temperature of about 259 degrees. Take off this press- 
ure in the receiver and the temperature drops to 212 degrees. This entails 
a loss of heat which is too great to be i>ermitted. Therefore, no florist 
can afford to return the water of condensation into the receiver at any 
reduction of the normal radiation pressure. Inasmuch as heating plants 
of this design cannot be safely installed without the advice and superin- 
tendence of a competent engineer, there is no reason why this problem 
should not be properly taken care of. The temperature of either of the 
pressures considered, ten pounds or twenty pounds, is too high for any- 
thing but a metal-packed i)um]i. The water end of such pump should be 
bronze or brass-fitted throughout. Rubber valves will not do. The water 
end must be all metal. The pumping of water at such high temperature 
involves upon the engineer more than ordinary care, and, perhaps, more 
than ordinary experience and skill. It is, however, the writer's experi- 
ence that when the necessary conditions are properly met and provided 
for, returning the water at the temperature here named is just as reliable, 
and the pump will work just as well, as when pumping water at 200 
degrees, or less. We have never noticed but what the ordinary greenhouse 
fireman handled either pump — the high or low temperature — equally well. 

Pump Exhaust 

The exhaust of the steam pump should be directed into the steam 
main which supplies the radiation pipes. This is a material saving, and 
should not be neglected. The pump exhaust should have an outlet to 
the atmosphere. A valve on each pipe will give the operator control, enabling 
him to turn the exhaust either way. In practice, the exhaust will very 
rarely be turned into the atmosphere. 

The Vacuum Method 

The third system is that which has been aptly named the vacuum 
system. It possesses many features which commend it in a special way 
to the florist. In this system all air valves are eliminated from the entire 

185 



Greenhouse Heating 

apparatus. As is well known, these air valves are more or less compli- 
cated, requiring considerable attention, and the greenhouse operator never 
feels sure that they are operating properly until he goes around and exam- 
ines and tests them. 

In the vacuum system the operator would not have this trouble, for 
the purpose of one of the pumps, which we call the vacuum pump, is to 
exhaust all air from the apparatus, which must be effectively done. The 
operator having accomplished this before turning on the steam, knows that 
the pressure of his boiler must fill the most remote part of the radiation 
surface. 

There is another advantage in this system which is most commend- 
able. Steam at a very low pressure, a mere vapor, in fact, without 
pressure, can be admitted into the radiation pipes and the quantity throt- 
tled at the valve, a feature vihich makes the heat as controllable as hot 
water, as in cither case the controlling power of the valve is practically 
the same. The water of condensation is returned in practically the same 
manner as described in the positive system. In fact, the vacuum system 
may be termed a positive system without air valves. There are numerous 
modifications of the vacuum system. A description of them will, how- 
ever, have but little interest for florists. This method of steam heating 
probably more efficiently meets the requirements of large florists" estab- 
lishments than any other. 

The Single-Pipe Method 

The so-called single-pipe system is largely used in the heating of 
buildings. It is not very popular among florists. W'c think it possesses 
so few features commending it to the florist that it is not worth while to 
devote space to a description of it here. 

Types of Steam Boilers 

The type of Ijoilcr which is adapted for steam use should differ in 
construction from the hot-water boiler ; that is, a boiler which may give 
excellent results in hot-water practice is not necessarily as efficient in steam 
practice. The circulation of a hot-water boiler is entirely, or should be 
entirely, a continuous flow from the bottom toward the top. There should 
be no return current in the interior of the hot-water boiler. The steam 
boiler has a circulation almost entirely within itself. The water should 
be in constant motion, rising upward in the hottest part and returning 
down the coolest portions. This gives the steam bubbles a chance to escape 

i86 



Greenhouse Heating 

into the steam space without causing violent ebullition in the interior of 
the boiler. The return tubular, the locomotive, the cast-iron sectional, and 
some marine types of boilers, are used for greenhouse heating. Many adher- 
ents of each type are to be found. 

Fuels 

The leading fuels that may be considered within reach of the florist 
are: Bituminous Coal, Coke, Anthracite, and Crude Petroleum, known 
as Fuel Oil. 

Bituminous Coal 

A good grade of bituminous coal, skillfully stoked, is probably the 
cheapest fuel available for greenhouse heating. It has the disadvantage 
of creating a lot of dirt and soot, which clouds the greenhouse glass and 
reduces its efficiency to some extent where flowers are desired. 

For greenhouse heating purposes the free-burning grades of bituminous 
coals, known as coking coals, that produce the minimum of smoke when 
burned, are superior to the block, or hard bituminous splint coals. The 
coals now being mined in West Virginia are, many of them, especially 
adapted for greenhouse heating purposes, notably those known as the New 
River (or Fire Creek vein) and the Pocahontas vein. The Kanawha River 
coals mined from the Cedar Grove seam, the Kelly's Creek, or No. 5 seam, 
and the Blacksburg seam, are superior coals for steam-heating purposes. 
They are free-burning, leave but little ash and clinker, produce relatively 
little smoke, are rich in carbon, being also comparatively free from sulphur 
and phosphorus, the presence of which in a fuel shortens the life of the 
boiler tubes and rapidly disintegrates the grate bars of furnaces. 

Anthracite 

Anthracite is next in economy to the free-burning West Virginia bitu- 
minous coals, and when it can be procured at reasonable prices is much 
superior for florists' use on account of its cleanliness and the ease with 
which it may be handled and fired. It is delivered in several sizes suitable 
for steam purposes. Where a high steam pressure is carried, and a fireman 
constantly in attendance, the smaller sizes, such as rice, buckwheat and pea, 
are more economical than the larger sizes, known as egg and broken ; but 
in low-pressure steam plants, and in hot-water plants, egg and broken coal 
are more desirable. The smaller sizes give best results when the fire is 
carried thinly, and is evenly spread over the grate, keeping a clean grate 
and a lively draught. The larger sizes are suitable for plants where a 

187 



Greenhouse Heatinjy 

fireman is not in constant attendance, as heavy, thick fires may be carried, 
which endure for a long period without attention. Thick fires cannot be 
considered economical, as they exist by slow combustion, which allows much 
of the gases contained in the coal to escape without being burned. Quick 
combustion is productive of the greatest eccniiniy. Anthracite, when 
burned, produces very little smoke, for which reason it is superior to bitu- 
minous coals for the florist's use. 

Coke 

When it can be procured at reasonable prices, coke may be ranked 
with anthracite ; but it is not largely used in greenhouse heating, prob- 
ably on account of its cost. 

Crude Petroleum, or Fuel Oil 

At frequent intervals the aimouncement is made in the public press 
that fuel oil is about to displace coal for boiler-heating purposes ; but for 
some reason the claim is never made good, and coal remains practically in 
possession of the field. Some nine years ago 1 made an exhaustive test 
of burning fuel oil, comparing the results obtained with those secured by 
using coal, in the same boilers. The result in economy was so overwhelm- 
ingly in favor of coal that I abandoned the use of the oil at once ; and I 
make bold to declare it as my opinion that but little economy will be found in 
burning fuel oil for greenhouse heating whenever coal may be procured 
at a cost not exceeding si.x dollars per ton. 

In conclusion, I would again advise every florist to consult a pfactical 
engineer when installing his heating apparatus. 



iS8 



CHAPTER XIX 

Carnations for Summer Blooming and Pot Culture 

As a general rule, the carnation, when grown for Summer blooming, 
does not do well in our dry climate. While crops of very fair flowers 
may be secured during the months of June and September, and, at 
times, extending through the month of October and even into November, 
the droughts which usually occur in July and August are a serious detri- 
ment, as during these dry spells thrips and red spider frequently destroy the 
blooms, and seriously injure the plants. Probably in more northern parts 
of the country, and in locations contiguous to the Great Lakes or other large 
bodies of water, which modify and moisten the climate, the carnation will 
do well when grown as a Summer flowering plant. 

In order to secure good crops of flowers in the open ground, plants 
grown from early struck cuttings, taken from early blooming varieties, 
must be used. While many of the early flowering sorts do v\'ell outside as 
Summer bloomers, but comparatively few of the late varieties will prove 
at all satisfactory in this respect, excepting in localities where climatic con- 
ditions during the months of September and October are favorable. 

The best time to strike cuttings for this purpose is generally in ( ktober. 
November, and the early part of December. These cuttings should be potted 
up when well rooted, and kept in cool houses during the winter, shift- 
ing the plants whenever the pots have become well filled with roots. It is 
essential that this shifting should be done at the proper time in order to 
keep the plants in growing condition ; for if neglected, and allowed to become 
potbound and stunted at any period, the plants will give inferior results. 

From the middle of April to the ist of May, the plants should be set 
into the open ground. At this time, if proper growth has been made, they 
will be in four to five-inch pots, according to the vigor of the variety : and 
should have been pinched back at least once, and preferably twice. Each 
shoot should be pinched back as soon as it shows a disposition to develop a 
bud. 

In planting out. the balls of earth should be disturbed no more than 
is necessary to soften them up in order to prevent hardening, so that growth 

189 



Carnations for Summer Blooming 

may not be materially checked. Commercial growers would do well to plant 
their Summer blooming carnations in beds not exceeding four feet in width, 
with two-foot paths between the beds. The summer treatment is the same 
as that for carnations intended for winter flowering, except that stopping, 
or pinchins;- out the flower buds should be omitted. 

Durinsj;- the In it. dry nionths of July and August, both red spider and 
thrips are apt to sericiusly damage the flowers, (jf late vears, the thrips 
has become such a serious pest in the Eastern States that attempts at flower- 
ing carnations in the open ground are liable to be comparative failures. 
There seems to be no effective remedy for this insect that can be [)ractically 
applied to plants growing in the open ground. If the thrips or red spider 
once gets possession of the field, the crop will frequentl}- be ruined. 

\MiiIe the following list of varieties will be found suitable for outdoor 
blooming, many other sorts may do as well, or even better in some places, 
each grower determining by practical experiment the kinds best suited for 
his locality : 

Pink — William Scott, Morning Glory, Moriana, Mrs. Roosevelt, Mrs. 
Thomas W. Lawsmi, and ( ienevieve Lord. 

IJ'hitc — Alaska, Mrs. Fisher, and Lizzie McGowan. 

Scarlet — Portia, J. H. Manley, and G. H. Crane. 

Crimson — General Maceo, General Gomez, Governor Roosevelt, and 
Harry Fenn. 

YcIloTC — Golden Beauty, and Eldorado. 

J'arics^atcd — Stella. Mrs. George M. Bradt. and \"ioIa Allen. 

Bedding Carnations 

^^'hile the American climate is not generally favorable for flowering 
carnations in summer, some very nice effects in bedding ma>- be secured 
bv a judicious selection of varieties. Planting moderate-sized beds of one 
variety usually produces the best results. 

The ]iropagation and treatment of bedding carnations are as already 
descrilied. 15nt few varieties are suitable for bedding. Portia and J. H. 
Manlev are probalilv the best scarlets for th.at purpose: the best whites being 
Alaska and Mrs. Fisher: ( iovernor Roosevelt and General Gomez for crim- 
son : Stella fi-ir variegated : William Scott and Floriana for pink. Most of 
the yelliiws are not suitable for bedding purposes, unless one is willing to 
wait for flowers until the months of September and October. 

190 



Carnations for Summer Blooming and Pot Culture 
Hardy Carnations 

Comparatively few hardy carnations are grown in this country, except 
upon the Pacific slope, where they seem to do very well. The attacks of 
red spider and thrips, in connection with the high temperature prevailing 
during July and August, render success in growing this section of the Dian- 
thus family very precarious in the United States. Frequently, during extreme 
cold winters, and especially where much freezing and thawing occur, the 
plants will be heaved out of the ground and so seriously injured as to pro- 
duce few blooms the season following. Probably a hardy race might be bred 
from our winter blooming carnations by leaving large numbers of seedlings 
to stand over winter in the field, and propagating stock from such plants as 
survived. 

Carnation plants that are to stand in the open ground throughout the 
winter should be protected with a light mulch, which may consist of Autumn 
leaves, chopped straw, or very coarse manure that may also be mixed with 
the leaves or straw. This will serve to enrich the ground, and to promote 
a stronger growth the following" spring. The soil in which carnations for 
summer blooming are grown should be made rich, and at least eighteen inches 
deep ; and provision should be made so that the beds may receive an ample 
su])ply of water during the heated months, when droughts prevail. 

Carnations for Pot Culture 

It is with considerable diffidence that I undertake to give information on 
this subject, having had but meagre experience in growing carnations in 
pots. As a rule, my efforts in this line of culture have met with but moderate 
success, owing, perhaps, to the fact that I have been more interested in the 
growing of seedlings, and the improvement of the bench culture of carna- 
tions, than in pot culture. I can do no better than to supplement my limited 
knowledge by quotations from English authors who have fully treated the 
subject. 

In the treatise upon the carnation, published in 1839 by the veteran, 
Thomas Hogg, of Paddington Green, England, the pot culture of carnations 
is dealt with at length. Mr. Hogg gives the preparation of soil much im- 
portance, the following formula being supplied for preparing a compost 
heap of sufficient size to furnish soil for blooming five hundred pots of 
carnations : 

"One load of fresh yellow loam ; half a load of common black earth, or garden 
mould; two loads of rotten horse dung; four large barrows of coarse sand from some 



Carnations fdv I'ot Culture 

wasli or poiui 1>y the highroad side, or dry road grit m lien thereof, laid up to dry and 
run through a sieve. 

"For an abridged quantity take : Five barrows of loam or maiden earth ; eight to 
nine barrows of horse dung from frames (i. e., well rotted) ; one barrow of coarse sand, 
or more, according to the nature of the loam, stiff soils requiring more sand. Mix 
thoroughly and throw together on a heaj), or ridge, and turn two or three times during 
the winter, especially in frosty weather, that the ingredients may be well and evenly 
incorporated. 

"On a dry day, towards the end of November, take a barrowful of fresh lime, which, 
as soon as slacked, strew o\er the heap while hot, meanwhile turning the heap; this 
accelerates the rotting of the hbrous materials, lightens the soil and destroys grubs, 
worms and slugs." 

1 winiM fiirtJKT rc-coiiinifiicl titat this suil hu sterilized about a month 
Ijreximis to tisiiii^'. .Sterilization further aeeelerates the rotting; of fibrous ma- 
terials, tends t(i increase the available content of plant food, and also 
destroys weed seeds. s]Kires of fungi and all insect pests, or their e.g-gs. Hogg 
further says : 

"If any objection be stated that the quantity of dung is too great in proportion to 
that of loam, 1 answer that such an objection might be well founded if the compost 
were to be used immediately on its being mixed together; but as it has to lie si.x 
months before it is used, I am decidedly of the opinion that the quantity is not more 
than is necessary, in order to insure a luxuriant growth and a generous bloom. 

"The thoroughbred florist, who derives pleasure from the pursuit, and who has 
always the fiower-fever strong upon him; who has rivals to contend with; who is 
incited by the love of fame, and the hope of winning the first splendid prize at .some 
exhibition ; who will walk fifty miles to catch a glimpse of some new, celebrated flower, 
and who, if it meets his fancy, will sooner pawn the coat from off his back than not 
to obtain it; who will leave his warm and comfortable bed at midnight to rise and 
destroy the cursed earwigs that shall dare to attack his favorite blossom; will begrudge 
no labor, and neglect no pains, to perform this part well, on which he knows his chance 
of success principally depends. With the latter, especially if he be young in the fancy, 
my only fear is, lest he overdo the part. To such a one. if you give a receipt for 
any particular composition, and recommend one peck of soot, most probably he will put 
two; if two pounds of salt, he will put four; if three pails of blood, he will put six; if 
four barrows of sugar-baker's scum, he will put eight; and so on. 
"Removing the f'hmls into large f'ols to bloom. 

"In our variable climate, the first week in .Xpril is the safest and best time to per- 
form this; the pots generally made use of for this purpose are those of twelve or sixteen 
to a cast. 

"A twelve-size pot will contain three or four plants, according to their habit of 
growtli ; a sixteen, two or three, according to the same rule. Be careful to put two or 
three large bits of tile at the bottom, or the hollow part of a large oyster-shell, resting 
upon a tile, to preserve drainage for the water. Stagnant water, whether in pots, or 
in the open fields, is alike prejudicial to all plants, except aquatics. 

"The pots to be filled three parts full with compost, in its rough, or coarse, state 

192 



Carnations for Pot Culture 

from the heap, using fine, or sifted, mould only at the top, around the roots of the 
plants, which must not be planted deeper than they were before. 

■'The mould to be well shaken down, to prevent its settling after. The coarse parts, 
or riddlings that would not pass through the sieve, may also be put at the bottom, fill- 
ing each pot about three inches deep with them. 

"At this season of the year, when they want water, let it be given in the morning, 
rather than in the evening, till about the middle of May, on account of the frosts which 
will often recur at that time. 

"When the plants begin to spindle, or shoot up for bloom, they require to be sup- 
ported by sticks, about four feet in length; some of tall growth, as Humphrey's Clarence, 
Snook's Defiance, Fulbrook's Grenadier, Wood's Ambassador, etc., require sticks five 
feet long." 

To keep down aphis, strew pungent, fine tobacco dust, or Scotch snuff, 
over the plants immediately after syringing. A weak solution of tobacco 
extract, or tobacco water, may be sprayed upon the foliage with an atomizer, 
and repeated at intervals of two days until the aphis disappears entirely. 

Top Dressing 

Frequent watering of the plants in our dry, hot seasons exhausts the 
compost, and tends to weaken the growth of the plants. This may be reme- 
died by top dressing the pot soil in the early part of June. Well-rotted horse, 
or cow dung, passed through a sieve, may be used, covering the soil surface 
to the depth of half an inch. A few handfuls of pulverized sheep manure, 
and a dash of Scotch soot, may be added, with good results. 

Top dressings of hot manures, such as night soil, sugar-baker's scum, 
nitrate of soda, dried blood, should be avoided. Weak solutions of nitrate 
of soda, as well as the chemical fertilizers mentioned in Chapter \'., may be 
used, but must be afforded conservatively, and with judgment. 

It should never be lost sight of, that "an immoderate use of strong 
manures to most plants is like the immoderate use of hot spirituous liquors 
to the human frame : they force and excite for a time, only to weaken and 
destroy." 

In my opinion, manures and fertilizers should be used as foods and, 
except in rare instances, not as stimulants. Plants that must complete their 
growth the year round, in pots, are generally much benefited by surface 
dressings of the soil at reasonable periods. The beneficial effects of such 
dressings may be made apparent by experimenting with one or two pots, 
and comparing them with others untreated. The improved health and vigor 
of the plants will be evidenced by improved color of foliage and strength of 
growth. The blossoms will be larger, the substance of the petals firtner, 
the stems longer and stronger, and the blooms of much better color. If, 

193 



Carnations for Pot Culture 

however, such fertilization is over done, a soft, sappy growth, with washy 
colored blooms, will be the result. A late English essayist says: 

"A proper compost should be composed of good yellow loam, plenty of well-rotted 
iiianurL-, a little peat, and some coarse sand. In potting plants, the roots should have 
plenty of room. The period of growth and blooming while in the pots is very long, and 
to allow the roots to become potbound at any time is bad practice. In favorable sea- 
sons, it is best to plant in the open ground in May, and lift and repot in early Septem- 
ber. Ihe leading shoots should be stopped twice while the plants are in the open 
ground. After potting, the plants should stand in a shaded situation for a week or 
ten days, or until well established." 

Air must lie freely given uixm all favorable np|)iirtunities, maintaining 
a winter temperature of alxjut 60 degrees, with some 10 degrees less at 
night, 

More attention will be necessary in watering plants grown in pots than 
is required in bench culture. The carnation needs a liberal supply of mois- 
ture, and plants growing in pots are subject to loss of moisture from evapora- 
tion from the sides of the pots, as well as surface and foliage evaporation. 
The soil must be moist, not only on the surface, but clean through to the 
bottom of the pot. When watering, be sure that a good soaking is given, 
thus insuring an even moisture throughout the soil. When the plants are 
coming into flower, a weak solution of manure water, made from fresh 
cow dung, to which may be added a little Scotch, or soft coal soot, may be 
used to advantage. 

Green fly is destroyed b\- fumigating with tobacco smoke, or the burn- 
ing of tobacco dust or snuff : or by dipping the plants in a solution made by 
dissolving four ounces of Ivory soap to a gallon of water, adding a half 
pint of tobacco juice, and churning with a syringe until thoroughly mixed. 

Cuttings for pot culture should be taken in January and early February. 
When rooted, pot into two-inch p6ts, and place in a temperature of 60 de- 
grees. As soon as the plants are well rooted, place the pots in a cooler house, 
where the teiuperature is maintained at 50 to 35 degrees during the day. and 
45 to 48 degrees at night. This cooler treatment will ]iroditce a shorter, 
more vigorous growth. 

By the end of March the plants will need shifting into two and one-half 
or three-inch pots, at which time a little ptilverized sheep nianure. or dry 
cow manure rubbed through a sieve, may be advantageously added to the soil. 
After shifting, the plants should not be watered for a few days, as the soil 
should contain enough moisture to ])roiuote root action, if the jilants are 
properly shaded. 

Young plants do best when ke))t in a low house, close to the glass, and 

194 



Carnations for Pot Culture 

given an abundance of air night and day. The carnation never takes kindly 
to a close atmosphere. This matter of ventilation and watering is undoubt- 
edly the keynote to success in flowering carnations in pots. 

When the shoots lengthen to five or six inches, they should be stopped. 
There are no set rules as to this operation, as each variety must be observed 
and treated according to its growth, ^iome may require pinching twice or 
thrice; others only imce. During a cold season, less pinching will be re- 
quired than during a warm, moist period, when growth is more rapid. 

By the end of June, plants will be ready for the final shift, using the same 
compost, to which add coarse ground bone : also a sprinkling of soot over 
the drainage crocks. Six to eight-inch pots may be used, three or four plants 
being put into the larger pots. When potted, the plants should be staked, 
and then placed in frames, on beds of coal ashes, to keep worms out of the 
pots. By the middle of August, the pots will become filled with roots, and 
the plants may be occasionally fed with manure water, or mulched with a 
compost, as hereinbefore stated. Careful attention to watering is recjuired 
during the summer months. .\ syringing twice each day during bright 
weather will promote a fresh, vigorous growth, and help to keep down red 
spider and green fly. From the 1st to the 15th of October .should see the 
plants in winter quarters, which should be a clean, bright, airy house, with 
top and side ventilation, that should be kept on at all favorable times. Car- 
nations should never be kept in a close atmosphere. They need a constant 
circulation of air. .\s soon as housed, fumigate the plants with tobacco 
smoke, or XL- All, and repeat the fumigation every week, until the flower 
buds show color. If large blooms are desirecl, all buds, save terminals, should 
be removed ; but a better plan is to take out the terminal and i^inch off all 
but the three strongest buds on each shoot. By this treatment, thirty to 
fifty blooms may be grown to a pot, in the case of some varieties. A tem- 
perature of 45 to 48 degrees at night, and 55 to 60 degrees during the day, 
will maintain the plants in a hardy, growing condition, and keep them longer 
in flower than warmer treatment. 

Painting the steam pipes twice each week with a solution of Rose Leaf 
Extract, Nicotocide, or some other of the various concentrated tobacco ex- 
tracts, will prove efficient in keeping down green fly and also largely hold 
thrips in check. Add enough water to the extract to reduce it to the consis- 
tency of thin paint, then brush all the pipes with the solution. The more pipe 
surface that is covered with the extract, the sooner will the insects be de- 
stroved. 



195 



CHAPTER XX 

Raising Carnations from Seed — Cross-Breeding and 
Fertilizing 

PERHAPS the most interesting part of carnation growing, especially 
to the flower lover, is the production of new varieties from seed. 
This is accomplished by hybridization and cross-fertilization. When 
the grower desires to produce a new variety, plants are selected which seem to 
combine the greatest nnnil)or of characteristics to be perpetuated or increased. 




E. Flower reach- for pollinating A. Petals closing after fertilization 

D. Flower dissected, showing pistil B. Ovary beginning to swell 
C. Seed ripening 

If a large flower, of a beautiful i)ink color, upon a free habit is sought, plants 
whose combined characteristics will ecpial or approximate those wanted are 

196 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

chosen. For instance, if there are two varieties, one of which possesses the 
ideal habit and a flower of the ideal size, form and shape, but lacking in 
color, and the other variety, while deficient in some of the above character- 
istics possesses the desired color, the flower of the variety having the wished- 
for habit, form and size will be fertilized with pollen from the variety pos- 
sessing the color wanted. The result may be that a variety will be produced 
which not only combines the habit, size, form and freedom of bloom sought, 
but the ideal color as well, and in many instances improvements in all those 
points. 

The operator's tools are few, indeed. A pair of tweezers, a pocket micro- 
scope, a few tight-stoppered glass phials in which to preserve pollen, and a 
delicate camel's hair brush comprise the list, and frequently the latter is dis- 
pensed with, the tweezers alone being relied upon to transfer the pollen 
to the pistils. 

The operation of pollinating the flower is very simple. It consists of 
applying the pollen, when it is in the right condition, to the stigma of the 
flower desired to be polHnated, at the proper time. The only way to learn 
at which time this should be done is by practical experiment. The pollen 
is produced upon the anthers. As these anthers burst, the pollen is released 
in the form of a dry powder, and when in this condition it should be applied. 
While the pollen will stand for a considerable time and retain its vitality, the 
best results are obtained if it is used as soon after ripening as possible. 
Tiny, hair-like growths standing along the entire length of the upper surface 
of the stigma will be noted. When these hair-like growths are well de- 
veloped, and especially when they assume a transparent appearance and 
seem to be covered with tiny dew drops, the stigma is ready for pollination. 
The operation should be done just as soon as the stigma is in condition ; 
otherwise some foreign jx)llen may alight thereon and the flower be pollinated 
before the pollen desired to be applied has had time to act. 

Fertilization takes place with the germination of the pollen, which sends 
very minute root-like growths down and makes connection with the ovules. 
As soon as these growths reach the ovules they commence to swell, the 
petals of the flower wither, and the bloom closes up, or "goes to sleep," as 
the florist expresses it, and fertilization is complete. In the illustration on 
page 196, A shows the flower closing up immediately after fertilization ; B 
the seed pod swelling after fertilization, and C the ripened pod. It takes 
from six to eight, and sometimes ten weeks after the flower is fertilized be- 
fore the seeds are ripened. This ripened condition will be indicated by the 

197 




The Hybridizing Tuuls are Simple Indeed 
'A pair of tweezers, a magnifying glass, and a delicate camel's hair brush' 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

pods shriveling up and turning brown on top. The seed pods must be 
watched and not allowed to stand too long before they are gathered, as some- 
times the pods burst open, scattering the seed, and it is lost ; but it should 
be gathered as soon as thoroughly ri])e. 

The stem should be broken off about four inches in length, and the 
pod and stem placed together in an envelope and put in a dry place, to 
remain until thoroughly cured, after which the pods should be broken open 
and the seed cleaned and placed in small envelopes, upon which the name 
of the cross, the date on which it was made, and the time the seed was 
gathered, should be plainly written. 

The best time of the year to pollinate carnations is either in the months 
of ( )ctober or November, or in January or February and early March. As 
a rule, I have secured a greater number of good varieties from flowers that 
were pollinated in October or November than from those which were pol- 
linated in the spring. Possibly, the reason is that in the fall months there is 
less pollen floating about in the air, and the hybridizing is not interfered with 
by foreign pollen being introduced to the pistil. If the blooms were pro- 
tected by gauze covers both before and after pollination, it might insure 
better results during the spring months. 

We aim to sow as much of our carnation seed as is ripened by the 
1st of February. A second sowing is made on the ist of March, and a 
third sowing about the 1st of April. Seeds which do not ripen by the ist of 
April are not then sown, but carried over and sown in February of the fol- 
lowing year. 

The seeds are sown in shallow flats, not more than an inch and a half 
to two inches in depth, or in shallow fern pans. These flats, or pans, have 
sufficient drainage so that the soil will not become sour. The soil should be 
of a light, friable nature, but with sufficient body to hold the proper degree of 
moisture ; it should be thoroughly sifted, and the flats filled evenly and 
firmed. Shallow drills, one and a half inches apart and an eighth of an 
inch deep, are made by pressing a slat about a quarter of an inch wide into 
the soil. The seed is sown in the drills at a distance of half an inch apart 
and covered with not to exceed an eighth of an inch of fine soil. The surface 
of the soil is then moistened with a fine spray, and the flats are placed in a 
light house, where the temperature is about 56 to 60 degrees at night. 
The soil is kept moistened by spraying with a fine spray, and if during 
the intense heat of bright days the sun dries out the soil too fast, shading 
with thin paper should be afforded, to be removed as soon as the power of the 
sun decreases. 

199 




Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt 
Govenior Roosevelt 



Xovelty 

JMavor Grant Burl 



Types of Good Calyces 
'In select iiii>- a tiower he sure of a firm, large, well-shapeil calyx' 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

In a week or ten days the young seedlings will commence to push out of 
the soil, at which time great care must be exercised that they be neither 
allowed to wither by having too little water, nor caused to damp off by 
being watered too much. 

No rule for watering can be given, but the proper time to apply it and 
the supply to be afforded must be noted by observation. As soon as the 
young seedlings have made three or four leaves they are pricked off into 
similar flats (which are filled with soil of the same character as before men- 
tioned) in rows one and a half to two inches apart, and one inch apart in the 
row, where they are allowed to grow until about two inches in height, when 
they will begin to crowd and must be removed from the flats and potted 
up. 

One and three-quarters to two inch pots should be used : and the same 
kind of soil that is employed in potting cuttings is suitable for seedlings. 
As soon as these seedlings have thoroughly filled the pots with roots, and if 
the conditions are not such that they can be planted out at once, they should 
be shifted into two and a half inch pots. 

The care of the seedlings from the time they are shifted is similar 
to that given any young carnation plant. Seedlings from early-sown seed 
are usually planted out not later than the 1st to the loth of May, but those 
from seed sown the ist of April will not be ready to plant out much before the 
1st of June. 

A good method is to plant the seedlings in the field in the same manner 
as is done with carnation plants grown from cuttings. The care is similar 
during the summer months, excepting stopping or cutting back. In the 
case of seedlings, the first, or central shoot (which might be called the 
crown shoot), is cut back, and the laterals allowed to grow and flower ; while 
with plants for winter blooming, all shoots are cut back during the growing 
season. 

About the ist of August the first blooms will commence to open, and 
then begins the task of selecting such plants as the grower deems worthy 
of cultivating under glass for what is known as the first year's trial. The 
selection of such plants is purely a matter of judgment on the part of the 
grower, who will naturally choose those varieties in which he sees the most 
promise. 

As soon as a plant has been determined upon for trial, it should be 
marked with a label, upon which the cross number (which will identify it 
with the record kept of the cross) should be placed. Plants selected for 
trial should be lifted and planted inside, the same as plants grown from 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

cuttings, with tlic exception that seedHni;- plants, being* considerably more 
visforons. shonld hv i;iven more roimi on the bench. Rows twelve inches 




"If you tail to select good, firm calyces a burster may he your reward" 

apart, and plants ten to twelve inches apart in the row, will alYord none 
too much growing space. 



Raisiny; Carnations from Seed 




A Vase of Selected Seedlings 

"The parents should always have strong stems and large, well-formed flowers" 

Seedling plants are treated in the same manner as those for ordinary 

winter flowering, and allowed to bloom throughout the winter, frequent notes 

being made as to their condition at various periods. But a small portion of 



203 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

those taken in will be thought worthy of a second year's trial, and such as 
are selected should be immediately marked with a label tn denote the 
selection. This label should always remain with the plant, as it identities the 
pedigree, or life history, as it were, of the seedling. 

In selecting a seedling for the second year's trial, be sure of a firm, large, 
well-formed calyx, for if you fail to select good firm calyces a crop of 
'"bursters" may be your reward. 

The seed parent should always have good strong stems and large, well- 
formed flowers, as the axiom that "like will produce like" will be found 
to hold, to some extent, in the reproduction of carnation plants from seed. 

Close attention should also be paid to the habit of the seed plant 
selected. Such plants should possess strong, vigorous constitutions and a 
tendency toward rapid, free growth and early and continuous flowering. By 
a course of careful selection, extending over a period of years, the grower 
will produce a strain of plants peculiarly his own, from which by careful 
breeding he w-ill be able to obtain many sorts of great merit. He will cer- 
tainly secure far better results than if his work has been done in a careless, 
unsystematic manner and without regard to the pedigree or physical charac- 
teristics of his seed plants. 

The size and form and stem of the flower, as well as the habit, having 
been approved, the next point to be considered is color, and in this, careful 
work in the selection of pure, clear tints will bear fruit fully as richly as 
the selection with respect to other characteristics. 

Some royal beauties will fall to the lot of every careful breeder who 
does his work faithfully and well. The varieties Governor Roosevelt, Mrs. 
Thomas W. Lawson, Adonis, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, Prosperity, and 
Enchantress are likely examples of the result of careful work faithfully per- 
formed. However, Dame Carnation produces some strange freaks, and now 
and then the grower will discover such absurdities as the anemone-flowered 
carnation, the Jumbo, and the two-storied flower. These, while decidedly 
interesting, can seldom be perpetuated and are, as a rule, of no value, save 
as curiosities. 

In selecting the colors, the tints should be pure and clear, and the tones 
pleasing to the eye. A mixture of purple and pink tones should be avoided, 
choosing for the pink section those tones that are clear and inclined toward 
the salmon, or flesh pink, rather than toward the magenta. 

Among the bizarres, strange and beautiful combinations of delicate 
coloring will l)e found. an<l these colorings are not always disposed in regular 




Governor Roosevelt 
Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt 



Adonis 
Mrs. T. ir. Lan-son 



"Some royal beauties will fall to the lot of every careful Hybridizer 
who does /i/s work faithfullv and well" 



Raisinj^ Carnations from Seed 

stripes or edgings. Sometimes they are laid on in dashes, tlecks and bars, 
as if the Goddess of Flowers now and then wielded her brush carelessly. 

The fancy variegated section will afford much interest and pleasure. 
Selections from this section should be pure in color tint, and the markings 
should be distinct and agreeable in tone. 

The ideal white carnation is like the W ill-o'-the-wisp, always before you, 
yet not quite in hand. In this section, the field is still open. It may be said 
to be almost unoccupied, and so long as carnations are grown we may expect 
a continued search for the ideal white. Several times has the ideal been 
announced, exhibited, and received the prizes and awards of the National 
Society, but when put to the test, a year or two after introduction it has failed 
to satisfy the requirements. 

Of all the colors yet obtained, yellow seems the most difficult tn pni- 
duce. It generally comes with various types of variegation, which shouUl 
be disposed in clear, distinct markings. The call for yellow carnations 
is not over large: nevertheless, a good \ellow is ahvays in demand in limited 
f|iiantities. 

( )n the 1st of I'eijruary most of the worthy plants will have hliKimed. 
and the selection for the second year's trial have been made. None but 
strong cuttings should be taken from such, and only a moderate nuniiier 
propagated the first year. Many seedling raisers make the mistake of 
growing as many cuttings as possible from the seedling plant, and the dis- 
position of many varieties to become weak during the earlier years of i^rop- 
agation, ma}' possibly be traced to the over-|)ropagation of the seedling 
plant. Many times a seedling plant which shows an exceptionally strong, 
vigorous constitution, and, in fact, seems to be e.xtra promising, turns out 
to be of little value on the second year's, and probably on the third year's 
trial. In fact, for the first three or four years but little is positively known 
of the variety under test. Frequently a variety which shows great promise 
during the first and second years' trials utterly fails the third year. 

Four to six years after introduction seem to constitute the profitable 
commercial life of a carnation, although such may frequently be prolonged : 
and many varieties have been grown commercially with great success for 
ten to twelve or more years by growers who realize thoroughly the im- 
portance of general good care, good culture, and a selection of propagating 
wood from plants in the best of health and condition. Too much import- 
ance cannot be placed upon proper cultural methods and judicious selection 
of propagating wood. Nevertheless it will always be a fact, that so long 
as raisers of seedlings contimie to produce new varieties, it will be necessar\- 

206 





Anemooe-tlowered C:irii;iti<in 
The t no-storied Caraation Mtlmaiaon CarniitlOB .lumbn 

"Dame Carnation produces some strange freaks" 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

to replenish carnation stocks with new kinds grown from seed, in order 
to keep pace with the requirements of the market. 

There exist two leading elements that bid fair to encourage florists to 
continue their efiforts for the improvement of the carnation for many years 
to come. Lovers as well as users of flowers are constantly seeking that which 
is novel and rare. The progressive florist is ever on the alert to gratify such 
desires on the part of the flower-loving public : consequently, the call for 




Bizarre Seedling 

Siiow-whitc ground with crimson scarlet shadings. The colon 
disposed in regular stripes or edgings 



are not ahvars 



new and improved carnations will be, to some extent, perpetuated by these 
conditions, and it may be well said that no florist who hopes to keep abreast 
of the times can aiTord to ignore this improvement in the carnation, and 
must of necessity keep in close touch with the newer varieties as they are 
introduced and maintain his stock fully up to date by the purchase of those 

208 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

better sorts which bid fair to succeed with the conditions under which he 
grows carnations. 

Again, say what we may, it is a well-known fact, that the average 
variety of carnation remains in profitable cultivation but a few years and must 
be constantly replaced by the newer and improved and more vigorous 
varieties grown from seed. In other words, carnations are continually run- 
ning out ; therefore, the market for new and improved sorts would seem to 




Bizarre Seedling 

Snow-white ground overlaid with splashes ot cream pink and crimson. Among the 
Bizarres strange and beautithl combinations of delicate coloring will be found 

be a permanent one, and these elements will tend to keep open a broad field 
to the grower, who may rest assured that if he produces a really improved 
carnation he v;ill find a profitable sale for his production. 

Buyers of carnations will usually seek the best, and the various raisers of 
new kinds, who are devoting their time and attention to the advancement 

u 209 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

of the carnation, are certain to produce more or less improvements upon 
existing varieties, and the forehanded grower will need to purchase annually, 
and test such varieties, in order to determine whether he can successfully 
supply them at a profit. 

The mere raising and selling a double seedling carnation, even though 
netting some profit to its grower, cannot be considered as successful im- 
provement of the carnation. An accidental variety of merit may now and 
then come to the grower who miscellaneously mixes the pollen from differ- 
ent flowers, and plants the seed resulting therefrom ; but the continued pro- 
duction of the best of the improved varieties will scarcely follow such work. 

If the reader expects that hard and fast rules for producing an army of 
new seedlings, to perplex the whilom seeker of that which is best and most 
profitable to grow, will be herein laid down, he is laboring under a mistaken 
idea. 

The ground over which a hybridizer is working becomes peculiarly his 
own territory, practically an unknown region which he alone is exploring, 
and he must not only get his knowledge as he works over his field, but he 
must also have the ability to take advantage of and use what knowledge it 
may be his fortune to gamer; consequently, he cannot make rules even for 
his own guidance, much less for the guidance of others laboring in different, 
though analogous fields. 

In the selection of parents, choose the best you have at hand. You will 
not find all the desired attributes in any one plant, or in any six plants, 
possibly not in any hundred plants ; and after producing several thousand 
seedling plants, and finally reducing them by the process of selection to a 
half-dozen considered worthy of a third year's trial, the hybridizer will 
wonder at and be discouraged by the amount of dross he has to handle in 
order to get a little gold. 

In the selection of seedlings, color stands pre-eminently above all other 
considerations. Size, form, fragrance, substance, strength of stem, stand 
on a fairly even basis of value. When these have been secured, get as much 
continuity of bloom as is possible, and maintain your cardinal features. Do 
not overlook fragrance. Its place is so close to color and size, that it was 
the cardinal virtue that won the Divine Flower into favor long before it had 
much of either color or size to boast of. 

Having suited your own taste in selecting your seedling, you must in- 
vestigate its selling qualities. Florists should appreciate that the discrim- 
inating buyer usually decides what he or she wishes to purchase. The 
retail florist, being in close touch with the consuming purchaser, quicklv dis- 




Viola Allen 
Judge Hinsdale 



Mrs. George M. Bradt 
Fancr Seedling 



" The fancy variegated section will afford the Hybridizer much 
interest and pleasure" 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

cerns what is most pleasing to the greatest number. Therefore, it follows 
that the producer of new carnations should keep in touch with the retailer, 
and should avail himself of the latter's knowledge whenever possible. 

Choose pure tones of color, those possessing the greatest elements of 
fixedness. Avoid dull, fading, or washy colors, and above all, those peculiar 
combinations of discordant tints that shock the optic nerve. 

Ever\' flower coming with long stiff stems, large and double, of good 
form and calyx, and the plant a free bloomer, will not prove commercially 
valuable ; but a combination of size, pure tone of color, good stem, form, 
fragrance and calyx, with freedom of bloom, and above all not forgetting 
selling qualities, is what constitutes a first-class commercial carnation, and 
the grower who produces such a one deserves the plaudits of his fellow 
growers. 

Introducing New Varieties Into Commerce 

Having determined the candidate for introduction, the method of bring- 
ing it before the trade will next interest the originator. There are two 
methods now in use, differing to such an extent as to deserve separate 
descriptions. The first and possibly that most frequently employed is what 
we may term the "boom method," which in order to be successfully carried 
out needs the co-operation of several different elements, and the accumulation 
of a large number of stock plants. 

Briefly stated, the "boom method" consists of praising and pushing the 
merits of the candidate for introduction in all possible ways, and advertising 
all its virtues, real and imaginary, constantly through all available media. 
Certificates of merit, special cups and prizes offered to be won by the candi- 
date, as well as frequent exhibitions at flower shows, supplemented by well- 
written press notices, form the usual plan, and when cleverly carried out, 
result in large sales and considerable profit to the introducer during the year 
of introduction. 

The second and perhaps the most desirable method might be termed the 
"business method." which, while not productive of such large sales the first 
year, eventually accomplishes more for the general benefit of the frater- 
nity than the method just previously described, and may be safely adopted with 
a stock of 1,500 to 2,000 plants to propagate from. The varieties selected 
for introduction may be brought to the attenti(in of the trade by placing the 
flowers in the hands of leading retailers, as well as by judicious advertising, 
and staging blooms at the annual exhibitions. 

The descriptions given should be correct. Avoid protlucing impressions. 




Shasta 
White Seedling 



Alba 
Lizzie McGowan 



The ideal white Carnation is like the Will-o'the-wisp — always beiore you 
yet not quite in hand" 



Raising Carnations from Seed 

or arousing expectations, that cannot be fulfilled. Be satisfied with selling 
a fair number at a good price the first season, and endeavor to be in a position 
to satisfy the second season's demand, which will be large, if your selections 
possess merit. 

Propagate your stock carefully, selecting your propagating wood with 
judgment, keeping your stock in good health, and send out the young plants 
in a condition that will insure good growth and a successful crop of flowers 
in the hands of the average florist. 

I do not mean to convey the impression that the introducer is limited 
to the two methods described. Each introducer may adopt any honorable, 
legitimate means whereby he can bring his production to popular notice and 
secure a profitable sale thereof. 

If the carnation specialist can get under the wing of a Copper King and 
deftly twist a 30,000-dollar nugget from the plethoric purse of the monarch 
of metals, he may well congratulate himself, and no doubt many of the 
fraternity will also congratulate him. But it may be well to remember that 
there are as yet few Lawsons, even fewer Fishers, perhaps ; while the com- 
bination of Lawson, Fisher and Galvin is the rarest of all. 

It may, however, be well to comprehend that a reputation for reliable 
and honorable dealing may be established by the introducer of new plants 
equally with any other business man, and such a reputation will become a 
source of much profit to its possessor and a surer aid in marketing his pro- 
ductions, than could all the prizes and certificates he might be able to win. 
It therefore behooves the intending introducer of new carnations, not only 
to be cautious and circumspect in the selection and judging of his own seed- 
lings, but to guard his statements well, and to let no shadow of misrepresenta- 
tion linger about the descriptions with which he brings his favorite to his 
patrons' notice. 

Remember that ten satisfied customers are far more valuable than a 
thousand dissatisfied ones ; and the way to create satisfied customers, is to 
introduce only varieties which your experience teaches you will have a 
profitable chance of succeeding ; and to deliver the stock in such a condition 
that the purchaser will not be handicapped in his eiiforts to test successfully 
your introductions. 




Golden Beauty 
Fancy Yellow Seedling 



Novelty 
Golden Eagle 



'Of all the colors obtained, yellow seems the most difficult to produce' 



Raising Carnations from Seed 
The Growing of New Varieties 

BY FRED DORN'ER. 

As the growing of new varieties has been a great factor in the evokition 
of the carnation during the last decade, a few remarks as to how this branch 
is conducted at our place, at Lafayette, Ind., may be of interest. 

My first seedlings were grown in 1889. The varieties which were then 
at my command, to obtain seed from, and which are mainly the ancestors of 
all I have grown since, were: President De Graw, Edwardsii, Heintz's White, 
and Silver Spray, white; Grace Wilder, and Mrs. Cleveland, light pink; La 
Purite and Tidal Wave, dark pink; E. G. Hill and President Garfield, 
scarlet ; Ferdinand Mangold, crimson ; Buttercup and Astoria, yellow ; and 
Hinsdale and Sunrise, variegated. 

Encouraged by my first effort, which proved a grand success, I con- 
cluded to make carnation culture my specialty, and the production of new 
varieties the head of it. 

The seed for 1890 was grown mainly on the 1889 seedlings, and in the 
fall of 1890, a bench, 4 feet .x 120 feet, was filled with plants selected out of 
2,000 seedlings from the field. This branch of the business has since steadily 
increased ; and in the fall of 1902, a whole house, containing 2,200 plants, was 
filled with those selected from 8,000 seedlings that had bloomed in the 
field. A correct record of all crossings, since 1890, has been kept. This is 
found to be a great help, as a seed parent is rarely selected without con- 
sulting its pedigree. 

Seed is grown in January and February. The parent plants are mostly 
selected from the one and two-year-old seedlings. At this time, the flowers 
can be selected when they are at their best, and we find it the most suitable 
period to make a clean crossing without the interference of nature's agents 
to effect fertilization. By April the seed is ripe, and is sown at once ; and 
by the latter part of May the young plants can be transferred to the field. 
Quite a number of plants will bloom by the latter part of July, and my experi- 
ence tells me that plants which have not flowered by the 15th of October are 
vi^orthless, as they are invariably shy and late bloomers. The best and most 
profitable varieties we have sent out were found among the early bloomers 
in the field. 

A noticeable feature, in my experience, is, that while in 1890 fully 50 
per cent, of the flowers came single, this has gradually decreased to about 20 
per cent, in 1902. 

About one-eighth of the seedling plants housed are selected and num- 

216 



Raising Carnations from Seed. 

bered for a second year's trial ; and of this number about one-fourth are 
selected for trial a third year. However, the weeding-out process is some- 
times much faster. Of our 1899 seedlings, only one variety was left from 
the second year's trial. One year is not so productive of results as another. 

The growing of new varieties, in the natural way of crossing and hybrid- 
izing, is a very interesting and fascinating work. It needs the aid of culture. 
Without this great stimulating help, our varieties would revert gradually to 
the primitive pink of a thousand years ago as rapidly as they have advanced 
at the present time. 

Selection of the parent flower is largely based on calculation ; but 
nature, with all its hereditary power, is a curb, holding fast to the stages of 
the evolution in the past, and thus making results very uncertain, dis- 
appointing, and almost a game of chance. If from thousands of seedlings, 
after three years' trial and weeding out, we return two or three varieties 
better than existing ones, we are well pleased with the results. 



217 



CHAPTER XXI 

Various Classifications of the Carnation— Traits and 
Peculiarities Sports and Variations— Seed Sports 

THE various attempts at classifying the carnation have gradually been 
abandoned, until, at the present time, there seems to be no definite 
classification scheme in vogue. The French divide the carnation into 
three classes, namely: First, Grenadines, including those with strong per- 
fumes, single or double flowers, medium in size, with petals deeply fringed 
and self-colored blooms. Second, Flamands, which include all large- 
flowered varieties, the blooms being round and double, rising in the center, 
and forming a convex surface, with smooth-edged petals. In this class the 
colors might be self, or striped with two or more colors. Third, Fancies, 
comprised of those with colors arranged in bands on light grounds. In this 
class the petals might or might not be fringed. 

The English divide the carnation into four classes, namely : First, 
Selfs, those possessing but one color. Second, Flakes, those having a pure 
ground of white, or yellow, and flaked, or striped, with another color such 
as crimson, scarlet, or pink. Third, Bizarres, those having the pure white, 
or pure yellow ground, marked in the same manner as in the Flakes, but 
with several diiTerent colors. Fourth, Picotees, which latter class has been 
regarded as a distinct race, the flowers having a pure white, or yellow ground, 
the same as with the Flakes, with a band of color bordering each petal at 
the margin. 

In the early part of the 19th century much attention was given by 
English gardeners to the growing of large carnation flowers. In order to 
produce the most perfect blooms, the English growers practiced what was 
called the art of "dressing," which consisted of removing the superfluous 
petals with forceps, and arranging, in a formal manner, such petals as 
appeared out of place. The calyx was frequently cut partly down between 
the teeth, in order to prevent bursting, and to provide sufficient room for the 
utmost expansion of the flower. But the practice of the art of dressing 
seems to have wrought the downfall of the English carnation about the 
middle of the 19th century. 

218 



Various Classifications of the Carnation 

The variety commonly grown in America, known as the perpetual 
flowering, or remontant, monthly, or tree carnation, may be classed as a dis- 
tinct race. 

As yet, there has been no organized effort to divide the American carna- 
tion into distinct classes ; but, at the present time, it might be possible to 
revive the English classification, and apply it to our American race. Thus, 
such varieties as Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson, Enchantress, President Roose- 
velt, Mrs. Roosevelt, William Scott, Harry Fenn, and others would be 
classed as Selfs. Varieties such as Viola Allen, Mrs. George M. Bradt, 
Gaiety, Marshall Field, Mrs. M. A. Patten and Prosperity, would be classed 
as Flakes, but now commonly called "variegated" sorts by American growers. 
Such varieties as Eldorado, Novelty, and others, would be classed as Pico- 
tees. At the present time, there is no representative of the Bizarre type in 
cultivation here, as the American public, as well as the American grower, 
have been but little interested in the combination of several colors in one 
flower. However, examples of the Bizarre class frequently appear in the 
stocks of the various hybridizers, and, in all probability, some of the more 
striking of these will, sooner or later, find a place upon the market, where 
they will undoubtedly meet with favor among a certain class of people. 

Varieties 

In breeding carnations the writer has divided his stock into the follow- 
ing classifications : 

1. Fancies: These embrace varieties with white, yellow, or other 
self-colored grounds, which are strikingly and peculiarly marked. 

2. The Purple and Blue Section : This covers all shades of purple, 
mauve, and such as might be liable to produce a blue-colored carnation. 

3. Crimson or Maroon: Most of the so-called crimson carnations 
are really deep scarlet grounds, which are covered with a veiling, or sheen, 
of maroon. 

4. Scarlet Section : This needs no description. 
The Pinks are divided into two sections : 

5. Light Pinks: Embracing shades of the flesh, or salmon, com- 
monly known as the Daybreak type ; and 

6. Dark Pinks: Exemplified by William Scott, and such darker vari- 
eties as Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, and so forth. 

7. Whites: Which need no description. 

8. Yellow Variegated : These are yellow grounds which are striped, 
spotted, or bordered, with various colors, such as scarlet, pink, etc. 

219 




The Cutt;iL:c Gnrdcns Carnation Range in a Blizzard 

The Carnation grower's life is not an easy one. In winter there are blizzards, snow-drifts and ice, 

entailing- hard labor that rends his muscles and taxes his patience 



Traits and Peculiarities 

9. White Variegated: White ground, with various colored mark- 
ings. 

10. Pink Variegated: This is a section which is tlie result of seed 
sports derived from crimson crosses. The ground color of the flower is 
usually of a deep Daybreak shade of pink, and the variegations are almost 
always maroon, or crimson. 

11. A Fancy Section, which might be called Flake, of which class 
Prosperity is a good example. 

There has been no particular reason for this classification, except to 
keep similar varieties together in order to maintain a better control in the 
scheme of breeding. 

Traits and Peculiarities 

Probably no commercial florists' flower requires more strict attention to 
the details of culture, in order to grow it to the best advantage, than the 
carnation. Undoubtedly, the florist meets with greater disappointments, and 
his success in cultivating this flower is probably surrounded with more un- 
certainties, than is connected with the culture of almost any other plant 
grown for cut flower purposes. The carnation possesses so many individual 
traits and peculiarities, that the study and patience of the grower are taxed 
to the utmost. Then, too, the constant introduction of new hybrids, them- 
selves the production of a generation of hybrids, seems to be developing an 
increasing list of idiosyncrasies which tend to render successful culture 
perhaps more difficult than it has been heretofore. This uncertainty in the 
carnation character is so well known to hybridizers who have worked any 
length of time in the production of new seedlings, that they insist upon test- 
ing their new productions a number of years before coming to any definite 
conclusion regarding their value. A seedling will frequently give the great- 
est promise for one, two, or even three years, and then, even as late as the 
fourth year, will indulge in such pranks as refusing to bloom, developing 
spot, rust or some other disease to such a degree as to practically drive the 
variety out of cultivation ; or it will develop a disposition to burst its calyx 
which seems impossible to overcome. 

Many of the seedling carnations which produce enormous flowers dur- 
ing the first years afterward dwindle rapidly, until the blooms become of less- 
than ordinary size. On the other hand, some varieties, that at first do not 
appear to possess particular merit, gradually increase in size and character, 
and in the course of three or four years are developed into valuable kinds. 
Of varieties with this characteristic, the well-known Mrs. G. M. Bradt is art 



Traits and Peculiarities 

example. When first sent out the success in the culture of this carnation 
was little more than nominal. The plants of it yielded but comparatively few 
flowers, and a very large proportion of these burst the calyx. It improved 
in profusion of bloom, size of flower, and strength of stem, for several years 
after its introduction, and, for a period, was one of the most valuable and 
popular carnations grown. Another example of this type of improvement is 
the well-known General Maceo. The original plant apparently possessed 
a weak constitution, and was left for some time in the field, as it was not 
considered to have sufficient merit to warrant a trial. It was at the last 
moment dug out of a frozen field, because of the depth of the color of the 
flowers, and the fact that they lasted an unusual length of time after open- 
ing fully. The plants propagated from the seed parent showed a sensible 
increase in strength and constitution, and further improvement followed the 
subsequent propagations. The variety also developed great freedom of 
flowering, and, probably, was the most profuse blooming carnation that had 
been introduced to American culture for a long period of time. 

Some varieties are also particularly affected as to the period of flower- 
ing by the time at which the cuttings are taken for propagation. Thus, late- 
blooming kinds, such as Prosperity, Buttercup, Mme. Diaz Albertini, and 
others of that type, may be developed into early bloomers by propagating 
very early in the season, as early even as November and December, and 
stopping the plants but once or twice at the most. Such varieties as show a 
habit and disposition similar to those of Prosperity, should not be stopped 
after the month of July. A good example of the effect of early and late prop- 
agation, connected with early and late stopping, was given by a house of 
Prosperity grown this year, 1903. The plants that were propagated in Decem- 
ber, and planted out from four-inch pots about the middle of April, stopped 
once after planting out, and lifted and planted upon the benches about the 
middle of July, came into full flower in the early part of October ; while, upon 
another bench, where the plants were propagated the latter part of Febru- 
ary, set out from two-inch pots at the same period as the earlier struck stock, 
but cut back once more and planted upon the benches at the same time, did 
not produce any blooms until Christmas, and even later ; while the same 
plants which were stopped but once after planting came into flower a full 
month earlier. 

Occasionally, a variety will show some peculiarity in bud development, 
such as opening the flower on one side only, under certain treatment. Thus, 
William Scott, when too highly fed with manures excessively rich in nitro- 
gen and potash, failed to open the blooms, the petals having cohered at the 










^ .-.^-^l^3f^ 






0^0 






Sports and Variations 

edges. Daybreak and its progeny give many one-sided flowers, when grown 
in a very rich soil, and highly fed. Some varieties burst the calyx badly when 
grown in a low temperature. Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson and Eldorado are 
examples of this class. Other varieties burst the calyx if over-watered. 
Mrs. Lawson is apt to do this, and during the dark winter months should be 
kept a little on the dry side. Other varieties show a marked disposition to 
develop rust, or other fungous diseases. Such kinds should be discarded as 
seed or pollen parents. Breeding from disease-resisting sorts is to be pre- 
ferred. 

Sports and Variations 

A carnation sport may be described as a distinct and definite variation 
from the regular tyj>e of the variety. This variation may consist of a change 
in color; that is, a plant bearing scarlet blooms may give a snow-white 
flower upon one branch. The cuttings taken from this branch will probably 
produce a certain proportion of plants that will reproduce the white form ; 
but a certain number will revert toward the type, and produce scarlet 
blooms. Some of the plants may produce white flowers ; others blooms that 
are parti-colored, or variegated ; others will produce white blooms upon one 
portion of the plant, and flowers of the type upon the remainder. Continual 
selection from the branches producing the white blooms, and particularly 
from plants that reproduce all white flowers, will finally fix the sport, and it 
then becomes a variety. This type of sporting is called "bud variation." 

"Color sports" are frequently very unreliable, especially where there is- 
no variation in the habit of the plant ; but frequently color sports are accom- 
panied with a variation in the habit as well, and, in such cases, they are apt 
to be more permanent. 

There are also sports in time of blooming. For instance, a very late 
variety may produce branches that give flowers early in the season, although 
the blooms may be the same as those of the type. A selection of propagating 
wood from these earlier flowering branches will, in time, fix a variety which 
will remain constant as an early bloomer. 

There is also more or less variation in the habits of plants which might 
be termed "foliage sports ;" that is, varieties with narrow foliage and rather 
slender, weak stems, may produce strong shoots, bearing broad foliage ; this 
characteristic may also be fi.xed by the process of selecting the propagating 
wood. 

Frequently, variegated carnations will give self-colored flowers of the 
same shade as the markings of the blooms which exist in the type. In such 



Seed Sports 

cases, these sports are not apt to be constant, as there is a tendency to revert 
to the type. An example of this is seen in the well-known red form of Mrs. 
George M. Bradt, which is produced, to a greater or less extent, wherever 
the variety is grown. While this form has been fixed, to some extent, I 
have never yet seen a stock of the so-called Red Bradt which did not produce 
more or less flowers of the variegated form. While in the case of the Bride 
rose, it seems, to have been proved that a sport in a rose may be of much 
more value than the parent, the same cannot be claimed as true of carnation 
sports, for, with comparatively few exceptions, the latter are of but doubtful 
value. 

They are, in general, a reversion toward some one of the parent types ; 
and as the modern carnation is the product of hybridization, and as these 
hybrids are selected because they are improvements upon the type from which 
thev have been produced, any reversion toward the parental type is apt to be 
one of decadence, rather than one of improvement. 

Seed Sports 

Among carnation hybrids, frequent variations in seedlings are noted, 
whicli cannot be accounted for in the pedigrees of the seedling parents. Thus, 
a cross between a crimson and a scarlet ; or a cross between two crimsons ; or 
a cross between two scarlets, all of the parents in the above cases having 
crimson and scarlet pedigrees, have produced snow-white blooms, though 
there be no trace of white blood for many generations in the seedling parent- 
age. Such variations may well be termed "seed sports," and these are, in 
turn, apt to produce sports due to blood variation, frequently throwing strains 
of crimson or scarlet flowers, or blooms with white grounds and crimson 
or scarlet markings. I have seen some remarkable seed sports produced 
from crimson crosses. In some instances these have been pure white ; in 
others, delicate salmon pink selfs, and, again, flesh pink grounds, delicately 
edged, or dotted, with crimson or purple. Further, the yellow and white 
variegated sections are apt to sport backward and forward; that is, yellow 
crosses will frequently produce white blooms with the same color markings 
existing in the parents ; and, occasionally, crosses among the white variegated 
section will produce flowers with yellow grounds. 



CHAPTER XXII 

The Ideal Carnation 

MUCH has been said about the Ideal Carnation, and now and then an en- 
thusiastic seedHng grower, or an admirer of the Divine Flower, gives 
to the world his description of what he considers an ideal carnation. 
Undoubtedly that Will-o'-the-wisp has bothered the minds of carnation lovers 
for the past three centuries, for as early as 1619 we find a good description 
of a method of growing carnation flowers in winter in a little work entitled 
"The Garden of Eden ; an accurate description of all flowers and fruits now 
growing in England, with particular rules how to advance their nature and 
growth, as well as seeds and herbs, and the secret ordering of trees and 
plants, by that learned and great observer. Sir Hugh Plat, Knight. (Fifth 
Edition London, 1659)," of which the following is an extract : 

"To have Roses or Carnations growing in winter, place them in a room that may 
"some way be kept warm, either with a dry fire or with the steam of hot water con- 
"veyed by a pipe fastened to the cover of a pot, that is kept seething over some idle 
"fire, now and then exposing them in a warm day, from twelve to two in the Sun, or 
"to the rain if it happen to rain ; or if it rain not in convenient time, set your pots 
"having holes in the bottom in pans of rain water, and so moisten the roots. 

"I have known Master Jacob of the Glassehouse to have Carnations all the winter 
"by the benefit of a room that was near his >;lass house fire: and I myself, by nipping 
"off the branches of Carnations when they began first to spire, and so preventing the 
"first bearing, have had flowers in Lent, by keeping the pots all night in a close room, 
"and exposing them to the Sun in the day time, out at the windows, when the wether 
"was temperate; this may be added to the Garden (mentioned Nu. 29) to grace it 
"in winter, if the room stand conveniently for the purpose. 

"You shall oftentimes preserve the life of a Carnation or Gilliflower growing in 
"a pot, that is almost dead and withered, by breaking out the bottom of the pot, and 
"covering the pot in good earth, and also the old stalks that spring from the roots; 
"but every third or fourth year, it is good to slip and new set them." 

From the above it will be seen that the winter culture of carnations was 
known at least 300 years ago. In the Gardeners' Magazine of Botany for 
1850, an article, written by ]\Ir. George Glenny, on some points of excellence 
in florists' flowers, gives an idea of some of the attributes that might con- 

226 



The Ideal Carnation 

tribute to an ideal carnation. Mr. Glenny said : "As there is nothing more 
essential to the improvement of flowers than a knowledge of what would 
constitute perfection, it may be acceptable if we give a slight sketch of the 
principal features desirable in some of the more popular of our ornamental 
plants and florists' flowers, that those who raise from seed may be aware of 
the points most esteemed when they select for future cultivation. The claims 
which seem more or less to predominate are : First, Perfume ; desirable in 
everything, whether gay or otherwise; witness the violet, mignonette, pink, 
stock, carnation, wallflower, sweet pea and heliotrope among flowers ; and the 
rose, thorn, sweetbrier, honeysuckle, magnolia, clematis, etc., among shrubs. 
Second, Continuous Blooming ; even without perfume, as in the scarlet 
geranium, verbena, china rose, dahlia, convolvulus, heliotrope, calceolaria, etc. 
Third, Elegance of Habit in the Plant, as in the fuchsia, and in most 
evergreens, especially the holly, box, laurel, and nearly all the coniferae. 
Fourth, Splendor of the Flower; as in the camellia, pelargonium, erica, 
azalea, rhododendron, ranunculus, anemone, etc. All these points are desir- 
able, and although some subjects may possess only one of these in an ele- 
mental degree, there are others which possess more than one, though perhaps 
not so desirable as some others may possess the individual properties." 

In discussing this question, Mr. Glenny, referring to the tulip, remarks as 
follows : "As regards individual properties and qualities, perhaps no flower 
has caused more discussion than the tulip. The form alone has occupied the 
attention of many who have endeavored to upset those laws which were laid 
down in 1832, but which stand to this day as the only standard in spite of all 
that has been written to the contrary from that time to the present day." 

In the same magazine, descriptions and cuts of perfect picotees as well as 
perfect carnations are given, with reproductions of the varieties of these re- 
spective flowers which growers had been able to make approach most closely 
the arbitrary ideal outlined. A reference to Figs, i and 2 will give the 
reader a good conception of the ideal which the carnation grower of 1850 
was seeking to produce among picotees. Fig. i was described as the Mrs. 
Norman, a heavy edged picotee, raised by N. Norman, a well-known culti- 
vator, of Woolwich, and was raised from seed saved from Headley's King 
James fertilized with pollen of Ely's Emperor, both heavy, red edged flowers. 
Comparing the two cuts, the modern carnation grower will be at once im- 
pressed with a stiff, wooden-like appearance of the illustration denoting the 
perfect picotee. Again referring to Figs. 3 and 4, we have what at that day 
was laid down as the proper dimensions of a perfect carnation, and also one 
of the best examples of the bloom that nearest approximated the ideal of that 



The Ideal Carnation 

day. Fig. 3 is described as Puxley's Emperor, a scarlet bizarre, raised by 
Mr. Puxley in 1848, a remarkably large and showy kind, of good habit and 
free growth. It is stated as a fact worth recording that ]Mr. Puxley, though 
an extensive grower, had only two kinds of carnations in his garden at that 
time which were not originated by himself. 

Further comparing the ideal with the attainable carnation of that date, 
one is once more impressed with the stiffness, formality and lack of grace in 
the so-called ideal, or perfect carnation. In those days nothing but bizarres, 
flakes and picotees were grown. So far as carnation literature discloses to 
us, selfs were not desirable, consequently were not cultivated. At the present 
time the American carnation grower seems to be working in an entirely differ- 
ent field from that of the English cultivator of earlier days. The shell petal, 
so much valued by the English grower, seems to be but little liked by the 
American public, for the reason that in our climate during bright, sunny 
weather the moisture evaporates from the edges of the petals, drying them up 
and drawing them together toward the center in a cup-shaped manner, thus 
producing a sleepy appearance in the flower, which is fatal to its sale. 

Among the many smooth-edged seedlings which we have raised at 
Queens quite a number of them develop beautifully and keep well during 
dark, winter weather, but as soon as exposed to the bright, sunny days of 
February and March they take on their sleepy character; and during the 
months of April and May are comparatively valueless. The laced or ser- 
rated-edged petal seems to stand far better in our climate, for even after the 
edge of the petal has become slightly withered and dried it does not alter the 
shape of the flower, consequently the bloom is still presentable in appearance ; 
and it may be stated that invariably the flower with the lace-edged 
petal is far more durable and lasting than the shell-petaled bloom. 

Among American seedling growers of the present day more attention is 
perhaps paid to form than is warranted by the tastes of our public. It has 
been said that the devotion of the carnation grower in England to the produc- 
tion of perfectly formal flowers finally wrought the downfall of the English 
carnation, which, in a measure, passed out of popularity. Up to the present 
time the American seedling grower has not been able to make so much 
progress toward the production of formal blooms as to rob the carnation 
of that great wealth of artistic variation, which probably has contributed more 
to the increase of the consumption of carnations in the United States than any 
other one point. 

So far as artistic taste is concerned, there is as much to be said in favor 
of the ragged, yet artistic, graceful appearance of the heavily fringed carna- 

229 



The Ideal Carnation 

tion as there is in favor of the perfectly formal flower of the English grower. 
The ragged bloom gives pleasure to many who purchase it, and the formal 
flower gives pleasure as well, and who is to say that either shall be denied to 
the lover of flowers ? 

If I were asked to describe the perfect carnation I would reply that 
there could be perfect carnations of several different classes. For instance, 
there could be a shell-petaled bloom that would closely approach perfection ; 
there could also be a semi-shell-petaled flower that would be a perfect one of 
its class ; and then, again, there could be flowers the petals of which were 
heavily laced, which could also be considered the perfection of their t3'pe. 

I will then take the ground that no single form of carnation can be ad- 
judged as perfect or ideal ; but that many variations in type may be success- 
fully grown and will please a wider range of people than if one formal type 
be produced. This does not, however, prevent the fixing of a scale of virtues 
which all good carnations should possess. These necessary attributes might 
be stated as Color, Fragrance, Substance, Form, Habit ,and General Appear- 
ance when the blooms are massed. 

Color I should place at the head of the three most important qualities 
(Fragrance and Substance being the remaining two), and it should be of 
a pure, clear, pleasing tone, or combination of tones. At this date no dull or 
impure tints should be tolerated, and, above all, the tints should be durable and 
retain their pleasing tones long after the blooms are cut. 

Fragrance I consider one of the cardinal virtues of the carnation, for 
throughout its entire history its fragrance has been noted as one of its chief 
attractions. A carnation without fragrance always seems to me like the 
comb without the honey. 

Substance stands on an even footing with fragrance and color, for 
without substance the colors fade, the blooms quickly wither and die and 
pass away like a myth. Substance contributes so much to form and durabil- 
ity of the flower that no grower of fine carnations can afford to give it other 
than an important place in his scale of virtues. 

Form and Habit and General Appearance stand relatively second in 
importance to color, fragrance and substance, though they are all so essential 
that none can be properly omitted in judging the merits of any carnation. 

Form may vary to a considerable extent and be of several different types, 
such as the shell-petaled bloom of the English garden, the serrated-petaled 
flower of our American varieties, or the highly laced, or feathered-petaled 
blossom of the Marguerite type. The general contour of the bloom should 
verge toward the symmetrica! ; the guard petals should be broad, stand well 

230 



The Ideal Carnation 

out of the calyx and turn at right angles to the stem, spreading broadly and 
evenly and firmly supporting the center mass of petals, which should form a 
semi-circular periphery. A firm calyx that does not burst is always a neces- 
sary adjunct of a good carnation. 

Habit is also all important, because it controls the stem and determines 
what sort of a crop of flowers we may expect. The habit should be vigor- 
ous, but not gross or coarse. The stem should be stifle, wiry and strong 
enough to hold the bloom erect, but not rigidly upright. The growth should 
be compact, grass not too coarse; and the plant should be a rapid yet firm 
grower and an early, free and continuous bloomer. 

General Appearance of the blooms should also have consideration, in- 
asmuch as many varieties deficient in form and appearance when taken as 
single flowers are very useful and valuable when massed in quantities. 

Size : You will wonder why I have not given Size a more prominent 
position, and why I leave it until the last. Well, the reason is just this : I 
fear that too much prominence has already been given to the size of carna- 
tion flowers, and that in the end we may commit the error of producing 
coarse blooms, deficient in fragrance and grace, and' thereby impair the 
popularity of our carnations. Flowers two to two-and-a-half inches in 
diameter are large enough for ordinary carnations, and two-and-a-half to 
three-and-a-half inch blooms, with an occasional "Jumbo," four inches across, 
should satisfy the craving for large size. 

I perhaps ought to refrain from naming any varieties possessing superior 
merit as perfect carnations, but if one wishes examples. Governor Roosevelt, 
for form and stem, might be cited, while Prosperity, though of a different 
type, possesses splendid form and is large enough to suit all requirements. 



t3^a^§^^^o,^o; 



231 



CHAPTER XXIII 

The Future of the Carnation— Who Shall Grow 
Carnations— Profits of Carnation Growing- 
Does It Pay to Do Things Well? 

THE rapid development in the production of carnations, which has oc- 
curred during the past ten years, has frequently caused those engaged 
in the business to question the probable future of the Divine Flower, 
and to consider whether its popularity is a passing fad, or is founded upon 
such intrinsic merit as will insure the flower's permanent continuance in popu- 
lar favor. Judging from past history, and, again, from present indications, the 
latter proposition would seem to be tenable. The carnation has become one 
of the most important of staple florists' flowers, and is now so generally used 
as to be regarded as a floral necessity. Among all flowers there is none that 
may be considered more useful than the carnation ; in fact, it is the only rival 
the rose has thus far met, for even at the present time its popularity is 
not second to that of Flora's Queen. Its consumption fully equals in num- 
bers that of roses, and, probably, may exceed it within a few years. This 
increasing popularity may be readily accounted for. While the common vari- 
eties can be sold with profit at modest prices, the bountiful response of the 
carnation to superior cultural methods is productive of blooms of such excel- 
lence as to satisfy the most fastidious tastes, or the extravagant desires of 
the very rich. 

While competition among growers will tend to decrease the price of the 
ordinary grades of carnations, this diminution will be amply counterbalanced 
by an attendant increase in consumption, as values are brought within the 
reach of people with limited means ; while the better classes of blooms, 
especially those which may be considered the finest, or fancies, will always 
command prices commensurate with their quality and cost of production. 

The continuing improvement in the carnation, and the introduction of 
new and interesting varieties, must always exercise an influence that will 
attract the attention of the flower buyer ; and if the producers of the Divine 
Flower will carefullv preserve that sweetest of its attributes — the rich, clove 

232 



Who Shall Grow Carnations 

fragrance — and not commit the error of producing blooms solely with a view 
to enormous size, stiff stems, and regular form, the popularity of the carnation 
ought to be conceded as a permanent factor in commercial floriculture. If 
the clove gillyflower — ■/. c, the clove pink, mentioned in the early history of 
the English carnation — so richly fragrant as to scent a whole greenhouse, 
were still in existence, its popularity would undoubtedly be as great as in the 
olden days. 

Who Shall Grow Carnations 

During each year the author receives a number of letters from enthu- 
siastic lovers of the carnation, who desire to engage in its commercial 
culture. These letters come from and represent a varied class of people, 
being received not only from the aged financier, or professional man, con- 
templating retiring from active business life and desirous of spending his 
remaining years in some light, interesting employment, yet retaining enough 
thrift to wish the occupation to pay its way, but from the energetic lad, with 
his career still before him ; also the middle-aged man, whose salary is begin- 
ning to be insufficient to care properly for the growing family, and who 
hopes, by engaging in some side employment about which he can busy him- 
self before and after business hours, to add, in a slight measure, to his 
income; as well as from the spinster, who longs to support the dependent 
loved ones by engaging in some employment which will save her from 
teaching, the factory, the store counter, or, more hated still, domestic service. 

These letters are always interesting, as they disclose the existence of such 
earnest hopes of success as would call forth all the energies of which the 
writers were capable; but they also disclose a lack of practical horticultural 
experience, and indicate that the writers have not formed any conception of 
the application necessary to master the commercial growing of flowers and 
to overcome the difficulties connected with their culture, in order to gain 
a fair profit and compensation for the labor entailed and capital invested. 
One writes that she holds a position as telegraph operator in a country town. 
Her home is but a few rods from the station. She has dependent upon her 
an aged father. She is imbued with the idea that the culture of beautiful 
carnations will add something to her income, and prove a pleasure as well. 
Then, too, she has an advantage: the aged father will be only too glad to 
take care of the plants during the hours she is employed in the office. She 
has but a hundred, or two hundred dollars at the most at her command, 
and has already expended, perhaps, one hundred and fifty dollars in the build- 
ing of a lean-to greenhouse against the dwelling before she applied for 

233 



Who Shall Grow Carnations 

advice, so that she is already committed to her project before the probability 
of success or failure can be discussed. The best advice is given, and she 
is furnished with plants in the best possible condition, replaced, perhaps, once 
or twice, as they are lost through improper treatment. She struggles hope- 
fully and bravely on for, perhaps, two or three years, only to learn that the 
well-equipped florist, but a few blocks away, has such superior facilities for 
the growing, and especially the selling of flowers, that she has but a slender 
chance to make even a moderate margin of profit ; and, finally, becoming 
discouraged, she gives up the venture. 

Another example is the broker, who has struck it rich in Manhattan 
Elevated, American Iron and Steel, or reaped a colossal fortune by engineer- 
ing the combination of enormous interests, and who, finding himself replete 
with wealth, expresses his desire to do something with his accumulations by 
laying out a generously planned country seat, and building thereon a sumptu- 
ous establishment, with palatial glass structures in which he designs to 
grow exotic flowers and fruits to gratify his new-born tastes. Within a 
few years, the contemplation of the large expense account, which neces- 
sarily accompanies such luxurious surroundings, awakens a vein of retrench- 
ment and economy, and he begins considering how he can manage his 
estate, and make it support a portion of its financial burden. One of the 
first problems he is likely to tackle will be the extensive greenhouse establish- 
ment ; and his faithful and enthusiastic gardener will generally be able to 
figure, to his employer's satisfaction, munificent profits, based upon the prices 
which he is obliged to pay to the Broadway or Fifth avenue florist for the 
selected fancy blooms bought only during the holiday season, when the 
supply from his own greenhouses is not sufficient to cover his requirements 
in the way of remembering his friends. He tarries not long in arriving at a 
decision. He will grow either carnations, roses, or orchids. He usually con- 
siders this question late in the season. There is no time to fill the houses 
with roses ; and orchids must be left until the following spring, so he falls, 
naturally, into growing carnations, even if only for the present, until time 
is afforded to prepare for the other and more expensive stock. Price-lists 
are hurriedly sent for; a stock of field-grown plants, consisting of a wide 
range of varieties, is purchased from various growers ; soil is hastily gath- 
ered together ; the benches are filled ; the plants arrive ; the planting is pushed 
forward with energy ; and within a space of perhaps six to eight weeks the 
place has bloomed forth into a full-fledged commercial florist's establishment. 
Expensive help is employed : the newest and latest fads in the way of car- 
nation supports and other paraphernalia are purchased ; and the proprietor 

234 



Who Shall Grow Carnations 

is as well pleased for the time being as if he were engineering a successful 
corner in coal stocks. But the reckoning day is at hand. The time comes 
when the returns from the commission house begin to give a pointer as to 
what the profits bid fair to be. It is then that the floricultural novice learns 
that there is a wide difference in value between the flowers as they leave the 
handsome store of the Broadway florist, delivered in the liveried equipage 
drawn by expensive horses, and the price at which they leave the com- 
mission house; and this variation he finds one that cannot be overcome, 
unless he himself be willing to engage in the retail florist business and 
assume its attendant risks and expenses. His vision of handsome profits 
vanishes. He finds that the possession of immense wealth does not make 
him a successful commercial grower, and that the enthusiastic, skilled florist, 
who not only loves the carnation as a flower, but who couples with that love 
a shrewd ability to make the best out of little, and who is willing to make 
the many personal sacrifices necessary to produce the best results, is able to 
obtain better flowers, and to sell them at better prices than the whilom 
grower is able to get for the costly products of his expensive greenhouses, 
which he finds must be sold upon an unprofitable basis ; and after a period 
of time he, too, disappears from the ranks of the commercial florist. 

Another would-be carnation grower is exemplified by the following 
letters : 

J. Kelsey Blank. Office of Blank & Co., 

W. Atwood Blank. Manufacturing Chemists, 

469 Blank Street, Chicago, III. 
My dear Mr. W : 

This will introduce to you my gardener, Mr. John Rowls, who has charge of my 
country place, Overlook Manor. You will find that Mr. Rowls is a very capable florist. 

Now, my dear Mr. W , I wish to ask a little advice. I have at Overlook Manor 

quite an extensive greenhouse, sufficiently large to more than provide my household 
with such flowers as we desire. Mr. Rowls has been marketing the surplus carnations, 
and has always received the very highest prices for them. He thinks the climate and 
soil at Overlook especially well adapted for growing fine carnations. Mr. Rowls has 
advised me, that with the building of a few additional greenhouses the production of 
carnations will be increased so that enough can be sold to materially help defray the 
expenses of maintaining Overlook. 

I have a surplus income from luy business which will enable me to build the needed 
additional houses, and I contemplate engaging in growing carnations. Knowing you 
to be one of the most successful grov/ers in the country, and one who seems to have 
made considerable money out of the business, I take the liberty of asking you to advise 
me as to their culture and the style of house I should build ; also, will you kindly fur- 

235 



Who Shall Grow Carnations 

nish me with a list of such varieties as you would advise me to grow — those that can be 
sold to the best advantage? 

Any courtesy you may show Mr. Rowls will be much appreciated, and, in con- 
sideration of your advice and kindness, I will purchase the entire stock I may require 
from your establishment. What chances do you think I would have of succeeding in 
the undertaking? 

Thanking you in advance for your kind consideration, I remain, 

Yours sincerely, J. Kelsey Blank. 

J. Kelsey Blank, Esq. 
My dear Sir: 

Replying to your esteemed favor of recent date, I have given your gardener, 
Mr. Rowls, whatever information he asked for. In regard to your undertaking growing 
carnations in a commercial way, I think you would have as good a chance of succeed- 
ing as I would, should I enter the business of manufacturing chemicals. No doubt a 
man of your experience and ability would succeed, provided you were able to give car- 
nation growing the attention and study it requires. Your inquiry has awakened the 
suggestion in my mind : Why should I not engage in the chemical manufacturing busi- 
ness? I have some spare money. You could advise me in the conduct of the business 
as well as I could advise you in the florist business; then, too, I could purchase my 
stock, to start with, from your firm. What do you say to our trading business expe- 
rience in this way? Sincerely yours, C. W. Ward. 

Office of Blank & Co., 

Manufacturing Chemists, 
469 Blank Street, Chicago, 111. 

My dear Mr. W : 

Many thanks for your kind letter of the 20th inst. You have opened my eyes about 
the florist's business. I have concluded that it is best for every shoemaker to stick to his 
last, and I shall not engage in growing carnations for sale. 

Sincerely yours, J. Kelsey Blank. 

But every one who essays the culture of carnations does not make a 
failure, and there may be individuals among any of the above-mentioned 
classes of people who will make a success of the undertaking. Upon general 
principles, it may be stated that the most successful growers of carnations 
will be those who combine practical cultural skill and knowledge of flowers 
with an inborn love for them so strong that those making the effort may be 
willing to make the sacrifices necessary to achieve successful results. Never- 
theless, a genuine love of the business, and a determination to succeed, will 
frequently overcome a lack of cultural skill ; and there are many cases that 
might be mentioned where the novice has engaged in the culture of flowers 
and, by dint of application, hard work and perseverance, made a success. 

Would I discourage anvone who wished to enter the florist's profession ? 
No, indeed. Only a note of warning, that "all is not gold that glitters," and 

236 



Profits of Carnation Growing 

that back of the wealth of spicy blooms there lies the same old foundation of 
the spade, the digging fork, the shovel and the hoe, with brawny hands and 
arms and stout hearts to wield them. He that would have gold must dig for 
it ; and he who would grow flowers will get no more for the asking than would 
the gold digger. 

Profits of Carnation Growing 

It is not my purpose to embody in this work any definite estimates of 
the profits that may pertain to commercial carnation culture. To the theorist, 
there is no more agreeable occupation than estimating beforehand the prob- 
able profits of any venture he may be about to engage in. Some one has said 
that "figures don't lie!" I would change this axiom into: "Figures are 
always made to lie, when future profits are computed upon the workings of 
a new venture." 

If you ask, "Is it a profitable business ?" I will reply, "Yes, if properly 
conducted;" but will say further, that I know of no calling that requires 
closer attention, or more constant personal application, than that of the com- 
mercial florist. Like the housemaid's task, his work is never done. Week- 
day and Sunday, workday and holiday, by sunHght or lamplight, his factory 
is running every full day of twenty-four hours. His employees may gauge 
their day's work by ten hours, or less, or more ; but his responsibilities never 
for a moment cease. And the florist endures all this upon a margin of profit that 
affords him, in a well-managed business, sufficient only to educate his family 
and start them on life's pathway upon but a modest footing, unless he has 
been fortunate enough to have located on the margin of some large city, 
and purchased sufficient real estate, the rise in value of which has brought 
him riches. 

Commercial gain should not be the sole and determining factor of inter- 
est to the successful florist. The mere sordid pursuit of wealth ill befits an 
art in which so many possibilities are wrapped. While the carnation enthu- 
siast's life may not be one of ease, and while in winter there are blizzards, 
snowdrifts and ice, entailing upon him hard labor that rends his muscles and 
sorely tries his patience — for all that, his calling has its compensations. Who 
among the craft will deny the pleasures of that most enjoyable time just 
before the holidays when the richness of the floral harvest is at full tide? 
While the fiercest gales of winter are wildly battling the drifting snows 
against the glass, underneath the crystal roofs there is the coloring of spring- 
time ; and the broad expanse of royal blooms, redolent with the spicy odors of 
the tropics, are waving with a quiet beauty peculiarly their own, suggesting 

237 



Does It Pay to Do Things Well? 

the bountifulness of swaying graiiifields during the prairie farmer's harvest 
time. 

The President's favorite flower may be seen growing under such an 
expanse of crystal roof as to suggest the appellation of "carnation ranch." 
Then, too, the grower may have the pleasure of knowing that his work has 
the appreciation and approval of those throughout the world whose eminent 
positions and education have fitted them to judge of his efforts from an 
aesthetic, as well as a practical standpoint. 

The Divine Flower has received the love and praise of two of our most 
beloved and esteemed Presidents — Mr. McKinley and Mr. Roosevelt — and, 
within a recent period. His Imperial Majesty, the Emperor of Germany and 
His Royal Highness King Edward of England have done homage to the 
American carnation. 

Does It Pay To Do Things Well? 

This question might be answered by asking the question, "Does it 
pay to do them any other way than well ?" When it comes to the culture of 
flowers, it most certainly does not pay to grow them, unless the undertaking 
is carried on in a most thorough and systematic manner. Organization, 
method and thoroughness will accomplish as much in floriculture as in any 
other undertaking. The successful horticulturist must l)e one who always 
has command of his business ; and to accomplish this, that business must 
be so well organized that he will have a grasp upon all its details. In order 
to get the best results from his establishment, every foot of bench space needs 
to be cultivated in the best possible manner. He should know what par- 
ticular varieties of plants can be profitably grown, and also be sufficiently 
well acquainted with the demands of the market to enable him to judge of 
what he can sell profitably. If he grows cut flowers, they should be picked 
and shipped to market in such condition as will enable him to secure the 
highest prices. If plants, they should be so well grown as to make them 
desirable purchases. His greenhouses ought to be models of cleanliness and 
neatness. There should be no accumulation of filth, or rotting material, under 
the benches, or stood in out-of-the-way corners, as such accumulations 
are but the breeding places of insects and disease. A neat, well-kept estab- 
lishment exercises a favorable impression upon the visitor. Purchasers 
usually prefer to deal with prosperous concerns ; and ill-kept florists' estab- 
lishments do not convey an impression of prosperity. 



238 



CHAPTER XXIV 

Calendar of Operations 
January 

Plants should now be in bloom. Maintain an even night temperature of 
about 50 to 52 degrees; not exceeding 56 degrees on any variety. Day 
temperature 65 to 70 degrees. Give air on all bright days. Don't hold the 
houses too warm or create a close, steaming atmosphere. Watch watering 
carefully ; the plants will now begin to need more water as the days lengthen 
and the sun's rays become more powerful. Look out for sudden rises in 
temperature in the houses on bright mornings. Take cuttings of late bloom- 
ing varieties. Watch carefully for green fly, and especially red spider. 
Fumigation with tobacco at this season is objectionable, as it ruins the 
blooms ; preferably use XL-All, or tobacco extract painted on the pipes twice 
a week. Commence feeding the plants lightly with liquid manures, or 
afford a light mulch of sheep manure about the middle of the month. 

February 

Plants are now having more active growth, and will need more water 
and feeding as the days lengthen. As the season advances, green fly and red 
spider should be more carefully watched for. Thrips will now begin to 
develop. Propagation should be fully under way. Plants are now growing 
and blooming freely. Increased ventilation should be given on bright days. 
Cuttings taken in January should be rooted and ready for potting up. Use 
a two-inch pot. A soil composed of about three parts yellow loam, one part 
leaf mould, one part decayed stable manure, a dash of bone dust and one part 
fibrous peat, makes a good potting soil. (See chapter on Soils.) This soil 
should be thoroughly mixed and run through a coarse sieve. If the compost 
has been prepared six months ahead, so much the better. Pot firmly, as 
this soil will be very light. Cuttings potted in January will need a shift 
about the middle or last of this month. Don't let young plants get potbound. 

March 

Propagation should still be in full force. Select all cuttings carefully 
239 



Calendar of Operations 

from none but healthy plants. Watch for red spider, thrips and green fly, 
and use proper preventive measures. Watering must be carefully attended 
to. Look out for sharp rises in temperature on bright mornings after heavy 
firing. Plants are growing more rapidly, and will need increased quantities 
of water. Abundant ventilation should be carried whenever possible. 
Syringe if any trace of red spider appears ; a good syringing once each week, 
on a bright morning, will do no harm. Such varieties as the Mrs. Thomas 
W. Lawson, Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, Daybreak, Enchantress, and any of 
the colors which fade in bright sunlight, should be lightly shaded by striping 
the glass with a thin paint made from white lead and naphtha. Make the 
stripes four inches wide, with three inches of clear glass between each stripe. 
Fumigate with extract of tobacco, or XL-All, to destroy thrips. Always cut 
the blooms closely before fumigating with tobacco, or syringing with salt 
solution. Pot all cuttings as soon as rooted. Shift all plants that need it and 
before they become potbound. Watch the young plants in pots closely ; don't 
let them wilt for lack of water. Don't soak them all the time ; use judg- 
ment and reason in watering. If young plants are shaded lightly during 
the brightest part of hot days it will save excessive watering. Young stock 
that is established should now be in cool quarters ; 45 to 48 degrees at night 
and 56 to 60 degrees during the day is about the right temperature. Give an 
abundance of air. Fumigate freely; all young plants should be set in the 
field absolutely without taint of any insect pest. 

April 

Propagation may be continued, but is now coming to a close. Shade the 
propagating benches more heavily, and keep the propagating house as cool 
as possible. Fresh, or sterilized, sand only should be used. All flowering 
plants need a light shading. Keep down insects. Young plants are growing 
and need watching and prompt shifting. Late blooming varieties, such as 
Prosperity, Mme. Diaz Albertini, and others, may be set in the open ground 
by the end of this month, whenever temperature and soil conditions will per- 
mit. Plants intended for planting on benches for inside summer growth 
should now be in three-inch pots, ready to shift into four-inch pots. Such 
varieties as Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson and Prosperity, propagated in Novem- 
ber and December, should be in three to three and a half-inch pots, according 
to strength of grow^th, aiid ought to be planted on benches by Iilay 1st in order 
to get best results. Plough the field intended for carnations just as soon as 
the soil is dry enough. If chemical fertilizers are used, get them into the 
ground at the first harrowing. If sta1)le manure is to be applied in the spring, 




CERISE PINK SELF 

PLATE IV. CARNATION MRS. T. W. LAWSON iFISHERi 



Calendar of Operations 

plough it under at once. Fumigate young stock either with tobacco, XL-All, 
or tobacco extract, for three consecutive nights before the stock is planted out 
either in the open ground or on benches. Exercise great care in fumigating ; 
don't overdo it. 

May 

The growth of the plants is still increasing. Insect pests will now multi- 
ply rapidly if not attended to and destroyed. If red spider and thrips are 
allowed to get full possession of the plants at this season, the grower might 
as well go out of the carnation business. Use XL-All for thrips ; syringe for 
red spider. (See Chapter XII., on Soap Solution and Salt Solution.) Fumi- 
gation with XL-All, tobacco, or tobacco extract, will kill green fly. Plant 
out all young stock as fast as ready. Plant in freshly cultivated soil. (See 
Chapter VII.) Fumigate all young stock before planting out. All ground 
should be ploughed a second time. Thorough preparation of the soil before 
planting out is necessary. (See Chapter IV., on Soils.) All blooming plants 
should be lightly shaded. Plants on the benches need abundant watering and 
all the air possible, and syringing once or twice each week, if there be any 
indication of red spider. 

Houses intended for indoor culture of plants in summer should be 
cleaned out, the benches thoroughly washed inside and outside and under- 
neath, the roofs and sides of the houses thoroughly washed down inside, and 
fumigated by burning flour of sulphur at the rate of four pounds to a house 
twenty by one hundred feet. Close up the house tight immediately after 
washing down, and fumigate while the house is full of moisture. Place the 
sulphur in several six-inch pans, or pots, or on plates ; put these at different 
points on the walks, drop in live coals, and leave the house quickly, allowing 
the sulphur to burn itself out. This is very effective if done early on a 
bright, warm day. Leave the house closed twenty-four hours, then throw it 
wide open and wash down everything thoroughly with the hose and allow all 
to dry out for a day. Few insects and fungi will survive this treatment. 
Look after the shifting of all young stock. All field stock should be planted 
by the last of this month. Run the cultivator among all young plants when- 
ever the surface of the ground shows hardening. Cultivate after each rain. 
Hoe the young plants, and break hard soil around their necks. Never allow 
weeds to get a foothold. Plants in pots intended for planting on the benches 
in June or July, should now be plunged in a frame, in order to harden them 
oflf and save care in watering. Sash should not be put on such plants except 
in case of heavy rains or a hard frost. When the sash is on, give plenty of 
air, even during heavy rains, by lifting up the sash at the back. 



Calendar of Operations 
June 

Plants will now be in the height of the simmier crop of bloom, will 
require an increasing quantity of water, and may be liberally fed. The 
amount of evaporating surface through the foliage and petals, in connection 
with the increasing heat, will consume the moisture in the soil five or six 
times as rapidly as during the winter time. Cuttings taken early in May will 
now be rooted, and should be potted up immediately and set in the open 
ground as soon as the roots have formed a fair-sized ball. Cuttings taken 
from the sand at this period may be planted immediately in the open ground, 
just preceding a rain. If successful in planting out such cuttings, so that 
they will not receive a serious check, they will make very fine medium-sized 
plants by the ist to the middle of September. The later-struck stock is 
usually vigorous and healthy, for the reason that the cuttings are taken from 
plants in excellent condition. This, however, will not prove true, if the stock 
plants have been starved and allowed to run down in health. 

All plants for growing inside during summer should now be upon the 
benches. Plants that are intended for blooming in pots should be shifted 
as needed, and plunged in an open position outdoors. It is well to place 
the bottom of the pot upon a floor of ashes, which should be made firm by 
rolling or beating. The position should be sheltered from prevailing winds 
and exposed to full sunshine, with an abundance of room for each plant. 
English growers do not recommend plunging carnations in pots, but in our 
hot, dry climate I think it preferable. The pots should be raised and turned 
every two weeks, in order to break the roots at the bottom and prevent the 
plants from rooting through the ashes into the soil. As fast as the benches 
are exhausted, the plants should be thrown out and the soil removed as 
promptly as possible. I strongly advise the burning of all discarded carna- 
tion plants as soon as thrown out. At this season of the year, the carna- 
tion is more or less infected with various insects and fungi. If old plants 
are burned as soon as taken from the greenhouses, the insects as well as their 
eggs will be destroyed ; whereas, if the plants are thrown out on a heap, or 
anywhere upon the land, some considerable portion of the insects will escape 
to other plants, and finally find their way on to the carnation fields, or into 
the houses, to again annoy the grower and injure his stock. 

Plants in the field will need cultivation and frequent hoeing, at least 
once in every two weeks : cultivation once a week will be no detriment. 
Growth is now pushing forth rapidly, and the blooming shoots will begin to 
elongate toward the bud formation. These shoidd be cut back as soon as the 



Calendar of Operations 

bud is well developed. The carnation field should be gone over each week 
and all shoots showing bud development pinched out. Do not take off any 
shoot that is not well advanced, but leave it until the next pinching time. 
Some growers allow their plants to stand until the buds are fully developed 
and then cut everything back hard. This is detrimental, if a continuous crop 
of bloom is desired, as it has a tendency to cause the flowers to come in 
crops. 

July 

The hottest periods of the year are apt to occur during this month and 
the following one. All insect pests, especially thrips and red spider, will be 
exceedingly troublesome this month. In extreme hot weather, the plants 
may be syringed every evening and in the morning as well. Ventilation 
should be kept on at all times. Young stock upon the benches should be 
syringed, and close attention given to watering. The shoots should be 
pinched back as fast as they show formation of flower buds, care being taken 
not to cut them back too hard. In pinching back a shoot, at least three strong 
joints should be left. Cultivation outside, and tlie hoeing and weeding 
of stock in the field, should be persisted in. Follow up the pinching back of 
stock in the field. The bench soil should be cultivated wherever weeds are 
showing, or the surface soil has become encrusted. Plants for blooming in 
pots should all be outdoors, and will now be growing rapidly. When the pots 
have become well filled with roots, water must be administered liberally, but 
after shifting, and before the roots have taken possession of the new soil, 
watering must be carefully done. If too much water is given at this period, 
the new soil may become soured and the plants will not make as good growth 
as otherwise. All old flowering plants remaining inside should now be 
thrown out as rapidly as the houses are needed. As soon as it has been de- 
cided to stop the care of a bench of carnations, the plants should be thrown 
out at once and burned, as it will not pay to allow the plants to stand upon the 
benches and dry up, for insects will leave such plants and go to adjoining 
growing stock, to get food. The houses should now be cleared out, fumi- 
gated and refilled, and prepared for planting as rapidly as possible. Late 
varieties, such as Prosperity, Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson and Governor Roose- 
velt, should all be benched not later than the 20th to 25th of this month. 
Houses should be shaded lightly where any plants are growing. This shad- 
ing, if not too heavy, may be kept on until October, at which time it should be 
gradually removed. Continue the pinching back of all plants, both in the 
field and in the houses. Follow up cultivation, both in the field and on the 
benches, vigorously. 

243 



Calendar of Operations 
August 

Cleaning out and filling and planting the houses should be carried on 
with energy, as it is now desirable to have all the plants benched as rapidly 
as possible. Fumigation for the destruction of thrips and green fly must be 
practiced at every favorable opportunity. Select the coolest nights for fumi- 
gating. The destruction of thrips must be followed up persistently. It is 
a ver}- difficult insect to reach by any remedial agent, as the pest burrows 
down into the flower buds where it is safe from the fumes of the various 
gases used to destroy insects. Frequently the thrips will destroy the flower in 
the bud state before any color can be seen. Continue the stopping of early 
blooming sorts of carnations, but the late blooming varieties should not be 
cut back after the ist of August. In the latitude of Xew York, the bench- 
ing of all carnations should be finished by the 20th of August. Cultivation 
of the carnation fields should be energetically continued. 

September 

There is but little variation in the care of carnations in the months of 
September and August. Tlants that were benched by the middle of July 
will be pushing forward their blooming shoots. All of these which indicate 
a short-stemmed flower, or show any signs of weakness, should be cut back ; 
only the strong, vigorous shoots should be allowed to develop. Continue 
field cultivation, and cultivation on the benches. Follow up fumigation for 
insects. Look carefully after the watering in dark weather, especially of 
plants recently benched. Do not give any artificial fertilizer, unless the plants 
are thoroughly established and the benches filled with roots, and there is some 
indication of slackening in growth ; then commence with a mulching of 
sheep manure, or a dressing of soot, or a combination of the two. Place wires 
wherever the plants have straightened up, and be sure to keep the wiring well 
in hand, doing the work at the proper time. 

October 

The earlier planted varieties will now be coming into bloom. As fast as 
the shoots begin to elongate the first wires should be placed, and the upper 
wiring of the benches should be continued as soon as the foremost buds 
show well above (say, four or five inches) the wires last placed. Never leave 
the wiring of benches until the stems have grown up and fallen down. 
Always keep the wiring well ahead of the growth of the plants. Shading 
should be gradually removed. Do not apply any fire heat, unless the night 
temperature falls below 45 degrees, and then the heat should be turned on 



Calendar of Operations 

but a short period of time. An exception to this would be in case of a cold 
rain storm, following immediately upon a heavy watering or syringing. 
In such a case, the ventilators, both on the sides and in the roof, should be 
left open a few inches, and the heat should be turned on a sufficient length 
of time to dry off the foliage and prevent the plants being chilled or checked. 
If the plants are checked by chilling or overwatering, they are very liable to 
be attacked by stem rot, rust, or some of the carnation spots. A fresh, 
sprightly, rather dry atmosphere is at all times better for the carnation than 
one that is cold and damp, or hot and charged with moisture. The best 
average temperature at night is 48 to 50 degrees, with a minimum of 55 
to 56 degrees during the daytime. During this month artificial fertilization 
may be commenced, giving such plants as show by their vigorous growth that 
the benches are well filled with roots a light mulch of pulverized sheep 
manure, to which has been added a little soot, or, in lieu thereof a slight 
mulching of thoroughly decomposed cow manure, or stable manure. Chemi- 
cal fertilizers may also be used, affording the plants a watering with a very 
weak solution, say, twice during the month. I prefer the mulching of sheep 
manure and soot at this period of the year, as all of the material is gradually 
dissolved and disappears into the soil. Where stable manure is used as a 
mulch, it must in the end be raked ofif. This not only entails labor, but dis- 
turbs and destroys the feeding roots which have pushed towards the surface 
of the soil, .and frequently into the mulch. Stable manure is better than no 
mulch at all, but the dressing should be a light one. 

November 

More artificial heat will be needed this month, but abundant ventilation 
must be daily provided. Upon dark, cloudy days, when dense fogs surround 
the greenhouses, a little heat should be kept on and the ventilators opened 
slightly at the top and on the sides, in order to provide a fresh circulation 
of air. The carnation is a fresh air loving plant, and the houses in which 
it is grown should be abundantly ventilated at all possible times. Be increas- 
ingly careful about watering, and do not water the benches until the soil is 
rather on the dry side. The same care should be exercised in watering 
plants in pots. Water about the temperature of the house is preferred by 
most growers. Avoid syringing the walks, or dashing water about the 
houses, excepting on warm, bright days. Disbudding should be followed 
up, and the young buds removed as soon as they are sufficiently developed 
to enable them to be seized and taken out without injuring the stems. The 
feeding of plants may be continued, especially of those that are in full bud. 

245 



Calendar of Operations 

All plant food and mulchings that are to be given during the fall should be 
finished up in this month, as during the month of December, especially when 
the days are dark and cloudy, Httle fertilizer should be afforded. 

December 

This is the most critical month for the carnation grower, as it is the 
natural resting period of the carnation. The days are short, much of the 
weather is cloudy and dark, and great care is needed in ventilating, heating 
of the houses, and in watering. The same care and treatment of the carna- 
tion houses recommended for November applies to December. A cold, damp 
atmosphere is the worst enemy of flowering plants, and should be avoided at 
all times. A moderately warm, fresh buoyant atmosphere, supplied with 
fresh air whenever it is possible to admit it, is always best for the carna- 
tion. "Ventilation, even if but a crack can be allowed," should be the 
watchword. Remember, that on bright, sunny days the temperature may run 
comparatively high. From 65 to 70 degrees might be considered the normal 
temperature for carnations upon bright days, but in dark, cloudy weather, 56 
to 65 degrees is all that should be allowed. The cooler the temperature can 
be kept and active growth maintained, the better it is for the plants. The 
grower will get larger and more perfect flowers, with stronger stems ; th^ 
blooms will be brighter in color, and the constitution and vigor of the plants 
will be better maintained by cool treatment, than by higher, or forced, tem- 
peratures maintained by artificial heat. 




246 



CHAPTER XXV 

The American Carnation Society 

SHORTLY after the writer engaged in the culture of carnations at East 
Moriches, L. I., he became impressed with the idea that much more 
could be accomplished in the way of improving the Divine Flower 
if an association of those most interested in its culture could be organized. 
With this end in view, correspondence was opened with a number of florists 
who were at that time paying more than usual attention to the carnation. 
These letters met with favorable responses from almost every individual 
addressed, the result being the publication in the existing florists' trade 
papers of the following 

CALL. 
To American Carnation Growers: You are cordially invited to attend a meeting 
to be held in Horticultural Hall, Philadelphia, Pa., on Thursday, October 15, 1891, at 
2.00 p. ni., for the purpose of organizing a Society of American Carnation Growers. 

"In order to make this Society as comprehensive as possible, and to insure the 
greatest benefit to growers, it is essential that all should become members. 

"All those who are unable to attend will kindly send their names for enrollment. 
The object of this Society will be to materially benefit carnation growers, and to ad- 
vance the popularity of the Divine Flower so that it shall stand second to none. Let us 
all step to the front and put our shoulders to the wheel. 

C. W. Ward, C. J. Pennock, Geo. W. Love, 

Geo. Creighton, Geo. Hancock, John jMcGowan, 

C. E. Allen, A. M. Herr, Alex. McBride, 

Wm. Swayne, Edward Swayne, H. E. Chitty, 

R. T. LoMB.\RD, E. B. Jennings, Isaac Larkin, 

Fred Schneider, Chas. T. Starr, Edwin Lonsdale, 

W. R. Shelmire." 
[Note. — It may be interesting to note that only nine of those who joined 
in this call are now growing carnations as a specialty. Three are dead, and 
seven have entered other occupations.] 

The proposition to organize this Society met with some criticism on 
the part of a few members of The Society of American Florists, who at that 
time probably imagined that the organization of another association com- 
posed of men interested in a special branch of floriculture might interfere 

247 



The American Carnation Society 

in some iiianner with the future of The Society of American Florists. How- 
ever, the futihty of this criticism was soon seen, and active opposition to 
the plan ceased. 

This call brought together an assemblage comprised of fifty enthusi- 
asts, and The American Carnation Society was duly organized. The initial 
meeting was adjourned to November 4, 1891, when the promoters reas- 
sembled at the St. James Hotel, in New York City, and the Society was 
launched upon a very substantial basis, and its real work begun. Papers 
were there read covering the subjects of Carnation Soils, The Production 
of Seedlings, Greenhouse Construction for Carnation Culture, Cost of Pro- 
ducing Carnation Cuttings, and Business Methods. Since that date eleven 
annual meetings have been held, the first taking place at Buffalo, on Febru- 
ary 16, 1892; the second at Pittsburg, February 21-22, 1893; third at Indi- 
anapolis, February 20-21, 1894; fourth at Boston, February 18-19, 1895; 
fifth at New York, February 20-21, 1896; sixth at Cincinnati, February 
18-19, 1897; seventh at Chicago, February 17-18, 1898; eighth at Phila- 
delphia, February 16-17, 1899; ninth at BulTalo, February 15-16, 1900; 
tenth at Baltimore, February 21-22, 1901 ; and the eleventh at Indianapolis, 
February 19-20, 1902. The twelfth annual meeting was held in the city 
of Brooklyn, N. Y., February 19-20, 1903. 

Starting with fifty members, the Society now has a membership of 
approximately four hundred. It has accomplished a vast amount of good 
work, and to its efiforts may be attributed a large measure of the popular 
favor with which the carnation is to-day regarded by the American people. 

Beginning with the first exhibition of flowers given in connection with 
the second annual meeting at Buffalo, N. Y., in February, 1892, where 
perhaps two or three thousand blooms were displayed, the importance of 
the annual exhibitions held by the Society has steadily increased each year, 
until these magnificent yearly displays of carnations comprise thousands of 
blooms, the staging of the show at Indianapolis demanding the largest exhi- 
bition hall afforded by that progressive city ; while in the city of Brooklyn 
the annual display for 1903 required its two largest exhibition halls. 

The American Carnation Society has devoted itself strictly to the exploit- 
ation of the carnation, and its work has been carried on with an enthusi- 
asm on the part of its members born of the knowledge that the efforts put 
forth were along the right lines, and, therefore, bound to succeed. Thus 
far the Society has formed no entangling alliances, nor has it sought to 
impede the growth, or cripple the usefulness, of any other florists' organiza- 
tion. Its membership acknowledged at the beginning the natural tendency 



The American Carnation Society 

of the times toward horticultural organization, and, with a broad view of 
the future, recognized that the larger the number of special societies com- 
posed of members thoroughly interested in the work that can be success- 
fully maintained the more rapid will be the advancement of American horti- 
culture. 

There are those among the floriculturists of the United States who 
seem to believe that all American horticultural organizations must be com- 
bined under one head, and controlled by fixed influences. In support of this, 
The Royal Horticultural Society of England has been pointed out as an 
example of centralized horticultural effort. The membership of The Ameri- 
can Carnation Society has not countenanced this idea, but has maintained 
its position and its work, replying to its critics by calling attention to the 
results achieved, and pointing to the fact that in England, aside from The 
Royal Horticultural Society, there exist at the present time not only a 
National Carnation Society, but a score of other special florists' associa- 
tions, that are doing excellent work. They further cite the many State 
horticultural societies existing in the United States, and the various pomo- 
logical, nurserymen's and fruit growers' organizations that are performing 
a permanent and splendid service. That The American Carnation Society, 
after having accomplished the magnificent results which now stand to its 
credit, will persist in maintaining its status, and continuing its good work, 
goes without saying. Through the efforts of its members a magnificent 
commercial business has been built up ; a knowledge of the American car- 
nation has been disseminated throughout the world, and a love of the flower 
awakened thereby that could have been accomplished in so short a period 
of time by no other means ; and I am certain that every lover of the carna- 
tion will join with an "All Hail to the Carnation ! Hail to The Carnation 
Society! May their usefulness never cease, nor their popularity ever wane!" 

At each of the Society's annual meetings essays upon various subjects 
pertaining particularly to carnation culture have been read. Among the 
subjects covered by these essays are the following : 

Soils. 

The Production of New Seedlings. 

Greenhouse Construction for Carnation Culture. 

Cost of Producing Carnation Cuttings. 

Business Methods. 

Do Varieties Run Out ? 

Carnations in the Retail Trade. 

Carnation Rust; a New and Destructive Disease. 

Carnations in Southern California. 

249 



The American Carnation Society 

The Carnation as it is grown in Europe. 

John Thorpe's Ideal Carnation. 

Sports and Variations. 

Some Types and Tendencies in the Carnation. 

Pot Culture of Carnations. 

A Retailer's Views. 

Growing New Varieties of Carnations. 

Diseases of the Carnation, other than Rust. 

Carnation Diseases. 

Carnation Enemies and Supposed Remedies. 

Discrimination of Diseases without the use of the Microscope. 

New Carnations and their Introduction into Commerce. 

Carnations for Cut Flowers. 

Desirable Varieties and How they May Be Improved. 

Carnations in Canada. 

A Nematode Disease of the Carnation. 

Carnations from Cutting to Field. 

The Cultivation of Carnation Plants for Winter Flowering. 

Care of Carnations in Winter. 

Carnations That I Have Seen. 

How to Distinguish Fungous Diseases of Carnations. 

The Future of our Floricultural Societies. 

What are the effects of Hybridization on Carnations? 

Abnormal Carnation Flowers. 

Some Recent Experiments on the Treatment of Rust. 

Chemical Fertilizers. 

Carnation Culture in Maryland. 

Introduction of New Varieties and Their Commorcial Value. 

The Carnation from the Commission Man's Standpoint. 

Moisture the Plant's Greatest Requirement. 

In-door Grown Carnations. 

Commercial Fertilizers. 

Sub-watering and Dry Air. 

Growing Carnations under Glass all Summer. 

Summer Blooming Varieties Out-of-doors. 

Cutting Prices. 

The Ideal Form of Carnation. 

Insects Infesting Carnations. 

The Carnation in Health and Disease. 

The compiled annual reports of The American Carnation Society, cov- 
ering its proceedings din'ing the first ten years of its existence, form one 
of the most valuable contributions to American floricultural literature. These 
reports contain a complete record of the Society's proceedings, besides a full 
list of varieties that were known to have been introduced and cultivated 
prior to and including the year 1899. 



The American Carnation Societ}^ 

The example set by the formation of The American Carnation Society 
has been followed by the establishment of several other organizations, notably 
The American Rose Society, The American Dahlia Society, and The Ameri- 
can Peony Society. Up to November of the year 1902 none of these socie- 
ties seems to have possessed the vigor shown by The American Carnation 
Society; but at the above-mentioned time The Chrysanthemum Society of 
America, which was established in 1889, entered upon a new departure by 
holding its annual meeting in connection with the yearly chrysanthemum 
show at Chicago, and it may be considered that The Chrysanthemum Society 
of America is now fairly committed to a plan practically similar to that 
which has governed the annual meetings of The American Carnation 
Society. 

The objections to the organization of special societies, upon the ground 
that they would interfere with the welfare of The Society of American 
Florists, are well met by the fact that the latter Society has thrived and 
gained large acquisitions to its membership, notwithstanding the growth 
of the Carnation, Chr>-santhemum, Rose, and other special societies ; and 
it may be well said that if England, with forty millions of people, supports 
not only The Royal Horticultural Society, but a score of other special flor- 
ists' associations, is there any reason why in the United States, with a popu- 
lation fully double that of England, and soon to be more than four times 
as large, there should not be able to exist not only The Society of Ameri- 
can Florists, but as many other special horticultural organizations as thrive 
in England to-day? 

The American Carnation Society is organized upon broad and liberal 
lines. It bars no one from the benefits of its membership. All are wel- 
come to its ranks — the amateur as well as the professional grower of the 
Divine Flower. 

American Carnation Nomenclature 

Compiled and Corrected up to February 1, 1899, by The American 
Carnation Society 

Abraham Lincoln Agnes Sliellem Alliambra 

Abundance Agnes Snow Al. Mailaiken 

A. C. Fitzpatrick Alaska Alice 

Acquisition Albany Amado 

Ada Alba Perfecta Amazon 

Adelaide Kresken Alba Superba America 

Adelaide Alegatiere American Banner 

Admiral Dewey Alexander American Flag 

2SI 



The American Carnation Society 



American Florist 
American Wonder 

A. M. Herr 
Amy- 
Amy Phipps 
Andalusia 
Angelus 

Anna C. Eastburn 
Anna H. Shaw 
Anna Webb 
Annie H. Lonsdale 
Annie Pixley 
Annie Wiegand 
Anthony's Pink 
Argyle 
Armazindy 
Astoria 
Attraction 
Augusta Rath 
Augusta Williams 
Aurora 
Avalanche 
Avondale 
Azalea 

B. A. Elliott 
Baltic 
Baltimore 
Banner 

Bayard Taylor 
Beatrice 
Beatrice \Miite 
Beauty 

Beauty of Oxford 
Ben Halliday 
Ben Hur 
Bertha Rath 
Bertha Soper 
Bertha Stahl 
Bess 
Bettina 
Bidwell 
Bird-in-Hand 
Black Knight 
Black Prince 
Blanche 
Blizzard 
Bohemian Girl 



Boissy 

Bonibell 

Bonny Doon 

Bon Ton 

Boule de Neige 

Bouton d'Or 

B tester 

Bride of Erlescourt 

Bridesmaid 

B rower 

Brunnette 

Brussells 

Brutus 

Bryant 

Buster 

Butler 

Buttercup 

Caesar 

C. J. Clark 

Calico 

Canada 

Captain King 

Cardinal 

Cardinalis 

Casa Blanca 

Catherine Paul 

Cecilia Schwencke 

Century 

Cerise Queen 

Charles A. Dana 

Charles Sumner 

Charles T. Starr 

Charmer 

Chastity 

Cherry Lips 

Cherry Ripe 

Chester Pride 

Chicago 

Christmas 

Christina Dorner 

Chusco 

Citrus 

Clara Mawer 

Clara Morris 

Cleopatra 

Clifton 

Clio 



Columbia 

Chincheta 

Conch Shell 

Constancy 

Cora Collins 

Corsair 

Couronne de la Vaela 

Creole 

Crimson Coronet 

Criinson King 

Crimson Velvet 

Crimson Wave 

Crysta 

Crystal 

C. Schmidt 

Cymbeline 

Daisy 

Daisy Bell 

Dards 

Darkness 

Dawn 

Daybreak 

Dazzle 

Dean Hole 

Defender 

DeRoo flitting 

Delaware 

Delicate 

Delightful 

Delia Fox 

Diadem 

Diamond 

Diana 

Dolly Varden 

Dorinda 

Dorothy 

Dorothy Mandell 

Dr. E. P. Lawrence 

Dr. Del Amo 

Dr. I^amborn 

Dr. Patski 

Dr. Smart 

Dr. Tevis 

Dr. Warder 

Du Marchand 

Duke of Orange 

Duke of York 



252 



The American Carnation Society 



E. A. Wood 
Earlham 
Eastern Queen 
Eclipse 
Edelweiss 
Edith Foster 
Edna Craig 
Edmons 
Edward Bissell 
Edwardsii 
Edwin Lonsdale 
Eglantine 
E. G. Clark 
E. G. Hill 
Eldorado 
Elmont 

Elsie Furgeson 

Emerson 

Emiline 

Emily Louise Taplin 

Emma Lowry 

Emma Quintin 

Emma M. Thompson 

Emma Wocher 

Emperor of Morocco 

Empress 

Encante 

Ermine 

Esther 

Ethel 

Ethel Crocker 

Ethel Ward 

Eulalia 

Euphemia 

Eureka 

Evangeline 

Evanston 

Evelina 

Evening Star 

E. V. Low 

Excelsior 

Exquisite 

Fair Rosamond 

Fairy Princess 

Fancy 

Farragut 

Fascination 



Fawn 

Fillow's New Red 

Ferdinand ?iIangold 

Field of Gold 

Firebrand 

Firefly 

Firelight 

Fishkill 

Flame 

Fitzpatrick 

Fleta Fay Foster 

Florence Bevis 

Florence Eddy 

Florence Fisher 

Florence Van Reyper 

Frank McGregor 

Freedom 

Fred. Creighton 

Fred. Dorner 

Fred. Johnson 

Gaiety 

Gauntlet 

General Burnside 

General Custer 

General l\Iaceo 

General Maximo Gomez 

General Sherman 

Genesee 

Geneva 

Genevieve Lord 

George Thorpe 

George Washington 

Germania 

Gertrude 

G. H. Crane 

Gibbonsii 

Glacier 

Gladys Ray 

Glorious 

Glory of Venice 

Glowing Coal 

Gold Coin 

Gold Finch 

Gold Nugget 

Golden Gate 

Golden Gem 

Golden State 



Golden Triumph 

Goldsmith 

Governor Griggs 

Governor Markham 

Governor Russell 

Grace Battles 

Grace Bollinger 

Grace Darling 

Grace Fardon 

Grace Runyan 

Grace Wilder 

Grave's Seedling 

Grenadine 

Guiding Star 

Happy Day 

Harriett 

Harriett Bradford 

Harriett Thorpe 

Harrison's White 

Harry Palmer 

Hector 

Heintz's Red 

Heintz's White 

Helen Dean 

Helen Galvin 

Helen Keller 

Henrietta 

Henrietta Sargent 

Hesper 

Hiawatha 

Hilda 

Hinsdale 

Holmes 

Hon. T. B. Reed 

Hon. Wm. McKinley 

Hoosier 

Hugh Graham 

lago 

lantha 

Ida Feder 

Ida May 

Ida McKinley 

Ideal 

Immaculate 

Imogene 

Indiana 

Ingleside 



253 



The American Carnation Society 



Innocence 

Intensive 

Invincil)le 

Ins Miller 

Isabelle Hiinnewell 

Ivanhoe 

Ivory 

Jack Frost 

Jacqueminot 

Jahn's Scarlet 

James Corbett 

James Dean 

James Madison 

James Perkins 

J. Gould 

J. B. Jacquier 

J. B. Kidd 

J. C. Ainsworth 

Jean Sisley 

Jeanne Morell 

Jeannette 

Jennie Parker 

Jewell 

J. J. Harrison 

John Carlion 

John Hinkle 

John McCullough 

John Raynor 

John R. Renere 

John Thorpe 

John Young 

Josephine 

Joseph Jefferson 

Joseph Perkins 

Josiah Eaton 

J. R. Freeman 

Jubilee 

Juliet 

Jumbo 

Jupiter 

J. W. Wolfskin 

J. Y. Murkland 

Kaiser Wilhelm 

Karto 

Kate 

Kathleen Pantlind 

Katherine Storrs 



Katheryne 

Katie Shaffer 

King Dianthus 

King of the Crimsons 

Kitty Clover 

Kohinoor 

La Belle 

Lady Chattin 

Lady Emma 

Lady Fair 

Lady Martha 

Lady Maud 

Lady Rachel 

La Favorite 

Lafayette 

Lake City 

La Purit6 

Lasandria 

Laura 

Laura Degenhardt 

Laura E. Doty 

Laura Hempstead 

Laura Vick 

Lawrence Thompson 

Lela Underwood 

Lena Saling 

Leon Gambetta 

Leslie Paul 

Letty Coles 

L'Excellent 

Liberty 

Lieut. Gov. Sheehan 

Lillian 

Lily Dean 

Little Beauty 

Little Gem 

Lizzie McGowan 

L. L. Lamborn 

Logan 

Lois J. Haettel 

Lonesa 

Longfellow 

Lord Clyde 

Los Angeles 

Louise Porsch 

Louis Lenoir 

Lowell 



Lucia 

Lucy Brenner 

Lucy Singler 

Lulu 

Luna 

Lydia 

Lyone 

Lyon's White 

Mabel F. Gray 

Maiden Blush 

Magiiet 

M. A. Hunt 

Majesty 

Manhattan 

Mapledale 

Marian 

Marie 

Marie Starr 

Marina 

Margaret Rath 

Mark Hanna 

Marquise Lome 

Mars 

Marshall P. Wilder 

Martin Wolfskill 

Marvel 

Mary A. Baker 

Mary Anderson 

Mary Shepherd 

Mary A. Wood 

Mary Darce 

Maude 

Maude Adams 

Maud Dean 

Maud Granger 

Mayflower 

Mayor Pingree 

May Queen 

McConnell 

Melba 

Mephisto 

Meteor 

Minerva's Pink 

Minnie Cook 

Miranda 

Miss Blanche Payne 

Miss Donnellv 



2=;4 



The American Carnation Society 



Miss Joliffe 

Miss Moore 

Mile. Carl 

Madame Chassons 

Mme. Diaz Albertini 

Mme. Cobette 

Mons. Gambetta 

Moore's Crimson 

Morello 

Morene 

Morning Ray 

Morning Star 

Motor 

Mrs. Ada Lenton 

Mrs. A. Rolker 

Mrs. Ayers 

Mrs. B. Harrison 

Mrs. Carnegie 

Mrs. Cassel 

Mrs. Chas. H. Duhme 

Mrs. Chas. M. Pick 

Mrs. Childs 

Mrs. E. Hippard 

Mrs. Elizabeth Reynolds 

Mrs. E. V. Lawson 

Mrs. Ferdinand Mangold 

Mrs. Fisher 

Mrs. Frances Joost 

Mrs. Garfield 

Mrs. H. C. Frick 

Mrs. Harris 

Mrs. Harrison 

Mrs. Henry M. Stanley 

Mrs. Jas. Dean 

Mrs. J. B. Perkins 

Mrs. John W. Colflesh 

Mrs. Keene 

Mrs. Lemuel Fawcett 

Mrs. L. Gay 

Mrs. Lonsdale 

Mrs. Mailander 

Mrs. H. Hallock Foote 

Mrs. McBnrney 

Mrs. Pauline Gussman 

Mrs. Robert Hitt 

Mrs. Skinner 

Mrs. S. M. Inman 



Mrs. Sprout 

Mrs. T. B. Reed 

Mrs. Titus 

Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson 

Mrs. Wm. McKinley 

Myrtle 

Nancy Hanks 

Nellie Lewis 

Nellie Nolan 

Nellie St. Clair 

Nelly Ely 

Netherwood 

New Jersey 

New York 

Nita Berringer 

Nivea 

Northern Light 

Oddity 

Ohio 

Old Gold 

Old Rose 

Olympia 

Oneida 

Oona 

Ophelia 

Orange Blossom 

Orient 

Othello 

Outcast 

Pacific 

Painted Lady 

Paloma 

Panchita 

Paradise 

Pat O'Mara 

Pafti 

Paxton 

Peachblow Coronet 

Pearl 

Pearl White 

Peerless 

Peru 

Peter Henderson 

Petunia 

Philadelphia 

Philadelphia Variegated 

Pikes Peak 



Pilgrim 

Pink Beauty 

Pink of Perfection 

Poe 

Pomona 

Portia 

Potomac 

Preciosa 

President Degraw 

President Garfield 

Pride of Boston 

Pride of Esse.x 

Pride of Kennett 

Pride of Penhurst 

Princess 

Princess Bonnie 

Princess Louise 

Progress 

Psyche 

Purdue 

Puritan 

Purple Beauty 

Purple Crown 

Purple King 

Purpurea 

Quaker City 

Queen of the Whites 

Queens 

Queen of the West 

Oueens' Scarlet 

Ramona 

Rebecca 

Red Cross 

Red Jacket 

Red Wave 

Richmond 

Robert Craig 

Robin Hood 

Rob Roy 

Roi des Violets 

Romance 

Rosalie 

Rosalind 

Rosa Pizer 

Rose Hill 

Rosemary 

Rose Queen 



255 



The American Carnation Society 



Ro^y Miirn 

R. R. Parker 

Ruby 

Ruth 

Ruth Churchill 

Saginaw 

Salmon Queen 

Sambo 

Sam Gabriel 

Samson 

Sandusky 

San Mateo 

Saturn 

Sea 11 en 

Scarlet Gem 

Scarlet King 

Scarlet Queen 

Scarlet Ray 

Scarlet Wave 

Scribners 

Secaucus 

Sea Foam 

Sea Gull 

Sears 

Sea Shell 

Seawan 

Sebcc 

Secretary Blaine 

Secretary Hunt 

Secretary James 

Secretary Kirkwood 

Secretary Lincoln 

Secretary iMcVeagh 

Secretary Windom 

Seneca Chief 

Senator McPherson 

Sensational 

Sentinel 

Servia 

Shasta 

Shell Flower 

Silver Ball 

Silver Lake 

Silver Spray 

Silver Star 

Silver Queen 

Sirius 



Small 

Snowball 

Snow Bird 

Snow Crest 

Snowden 

Snow Drift 

Snow Flake 

Snow Queen 

Snow White 

Souriza 

Spartan 

Sport 

Springfield 

S. P. Rees 

S. S. Pennock 

Starlight 

Star of the West 

Storm King 

Storm Queen 

Stuart 

Striped Unique 

Sunshine 

Sweetbrier 

Tecumseh 

The Bride 

The Grout 

The Maine 

The Marquis 

Thomas Caird 

Thorley 

T. H. Spaulding 

Trilby 

Triumph 

Twilight 

Uncle John 

Uncle Sam 

Uncle Walter 

Unique 

Utica 

Van Houtte 

Van Leeuwen 

Variegated La Belle 

Variegated La Purite 

Venus 

Vesuvius 

Vesper 

Vice-President G. A. H. 

256 



Vice-Admiral Schley 

Victor 

Victoria 

Village Maid 

Villisca 

Virginalis 

Vixen 

Volunteer 

Vulcan 

Wabash 

Wanderer 

Waneta 

Washinsrton 

Waverly 

W. D. Sloan 

West End 

Western Pride 

W. H. Brower 

Whipper-in 

White Beauty 

White Cap 

White Cloud 

White Coronet 

White Daybreak 

White Dove 

White Gem 

White Grace Wilder 

White La Purite 

White Queen 

White Wings 

Whittier 

Wide-Awake 

Wilhelm 

W'm. E. Rowland 

^^'m. F. Drcer 

Wm. T. Burke 

Wm. Pierce 

Wm. Scott 

Wm. Swayne 

Winifred 

\y. W. Coles 

Yellow Jack 

Yellok Jacket 

Yellow Queen 

Young America 
:ibart Zebra 



CHAPTER XXVI 

Carnation Culture 

In Different Geographical Localities on the North American Continent, 
With Biographical Sketches of the Writers 



Garnation Culture in Lafayette, Ind. 

BV FrkDEKICK LInKM.R 

Space will not permit me to go into cultural details, so I will only 
touch upon the main points. I believe I can do this more comprehensively 
by outlining the manner in which these are observed at our place. 

Our soil is a loam, of a rather light texture — partly sandy knolls, and 
heavier, lower ground. For fertilizers we use stable manure, wood ashes 
and bone meal. 

On the light, sandy soil we grow the finest plants. There we are able 
to retain the moisture much longer, during dry weather, by thorough culti- 
vation ; and heavy rains drain off much quicker. The plants also lift with 
a large bunch of fine roots. 

For bench soil we select, in the fall, a piece of the heavier loam, but 
would prefer a piece of sod-soil ; manure it well with stable manure, wood 
ashes and bone meal, and plough it well under. Early in the spring we repeat 
the dose, plough again, and after five or six weeks apply some lime. We 
plough this under, and repeat the ploughing two or three times during the 
summer. Great care is exercised not to work this ground while wet. 

We have only one soil, and one general treatment for all tilie varieties 
we grow — seedlings and standard sorts alike. At one time we thought 
to strengthen our soil by adding clay on the benches, but secured much 
more benefit from more lime and bone. We find it of great importance 
to have all manures put into the soil in tlie fall and the following spring, 
before the soil is used, so that the manures may become fully decomposed 
and incorporated. Plants will take hold much quicker in such soil than 

257 17 



Carnation Culture in Lafa3"ette, Indiana 

when manures are intermixed on the bench, thougli tliese manures may be 
as well decomposed as is possible. 

Raised benches, with five inches of soil, are the rule with us. 

After the plants are well established we apply a light mulch of well- 
rotted cow manure and light soil. We do this more to keep an even mois- 
ture all through the bench than to enrich the soil. 

We use liquid manures, much diluted, as soon as the plants are able to 
assimilate the extra food, and increase the applications as the plants may 
demand it. 

From the time the plants are established we only syringe if red spider 
should appear. 

All the water is applied underneath, and is freely given when needed, 
so as to saturate the soil to the bottom. Sub-watering we consider advan- 
tageous, but for the average grower it will hardly justify the extra expense 
in building the benches. 

The temperature we maintain is from 55 to 60 degrees in the evening, 
to 50 degrees toward morning. During the daytime, as soon as the tem- 
perature reaches 60 degrees, the ventilators are opened. 

Plants are staked as soon as possible, to insure a straight growth from 
the beginning. We use the Model Support, and in place of the extension 
employ wire lengthwise, and twine across the benches. 

A house 20 X 100 feet is used exclusively for propagation. The benches 
have brick bottoms, and are partially arranged for sub-watering. The sand 
is a medium-grained, sharp pit-sand. The benches are filled to a depth of 
three inches, and well packed, and the sand is renewed for each new lot of 
cuttings. 

\Mierever practicable, or the stock is large enough, the culture for cut- 
tings and flowers is divided. The only difference in the treatment of stock 
reserved for cuttings is that the plants are grown on separate benches, and 
are not allowed to bloom. In this way we get more cuttings, and in my 
experience these are of a better quality than others taken from the flower- 
ing plants. 

Cuttings are either picked out of the axil of the leaf, or are cut at the 
joint. In either case the cutting is trimmed, and great care observed so 
that the heel has a smooth cut, or break, and that no bare fiber projects 
beneath the cut. 

All stock for our own use is potted up as soon as rooted, and placed in 
a light, but cool, house, being transferred to the field as early as the weather 

258 



Carnation Culture in Lafa^^ette, Indiana 

will permit. Cultivation is closely attended to, and the ground is never 
permitted to become baked and crusty. This is the only way to be pre- 
pared for a dry spell, and is much more beneficial to the plants than resort- 
ing to watering. 

Topping is commenced as soon as the plants attain a height of five or 
six inches. A young shoot, topped in time, will break much quicker than 
one allowed to form a flower bud. 

We commence planting in the house by the ist of August. In our 
section of the country, with too early planting, we have to fight red spider; 
and in exterminating this pest, by excessive syringing, we invite fungous 
diseases. 



FREDERICK DORNER 

Frederick Dorner of Lafayette, Indiana, was born at Schiltack, situated in one of 
the valleys of the Black Forest Mountains in Baden, Germany, on November 29, 1837. 

There he attended the common schools and 
received a fair, practical education. At the 
age of seventeen he emigrated to America, 
landing in New York on May 7, 1855, going 
direct to Lafayette, Indiana, where an older 
lirother resided. His occupation in the early 
])art of his residence there was varied. 
Naturally fond of flowers, he concluded to 
fnllow their culture, and found employment 
with a Mr. Loyd, one of the pioneer florists 
■ iiiil gardeners of Indiana, who was at that 
time supplying the Chicago and Indianapolis 
markets. Mr. Dorner remained there but a 
short time, fever and ague attacking him and 
compelling him to relinquish his situation. 

Fifteen years were subsequently devoted to 
farming, when he again returned to his favor- 
ite occupation in 1870, renting a place to grow 
vegetables. Attached to this was a small 
greenhouse for the cultivation of pot plants. 
This location he left, and rented the estab- 
lishment where he had first found employ- 
ment. Here he erected three small green- 
houses, and cultivated flowers, vegetables 
and small fruits. 

From that period dates the beginning of his present establishment. His business 
gradually increased, and in 18S9 it received a new impetus, when Mr. Dorner drifted 
into the growing of seedling carnations, and in 1890, when he moved into his present 
place. 

259 




Frederick Dorner 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 

The present firm, F. Dorrier & Sons Co., has been incorporated as a stock con- 
cern, and consists of Mr. Dorner himself, and his five elder children — two sons, Fred 
E. and Theodore A., and three daughters, Emily, Mrs. Anna D. Hudson, and Mrs. 
Emma D. Riddle. All are actually engaged in the business, excepting the last named. 

Mr. Dorner's greatest achievement so far has been the variety Fiancee. It is 
considered the largest perfect carnation to date, for the stock of which it is reported 
he has received $15,000 from The Chicago Carnation Co., of Joliet, III. 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 

By 1'kter FisHiiK 

Carnation culture of to-day differs so radically from the methods pur- 
sued ten years ago, and, no doubt, from those that will prevail five years 
hence, that it is extremely difficult, and almost impossible, to state any spe- 
cific line of treatment, as one must be largely governed by the requirements 
of the special varieties of the times. It will be found that some sorts require 
culture radically ditTerent from others to develop the points of excellence 
they may possess ; and it is unwise to condemn a variety because it may not 
succeed in some localities, as the wide variation of soils has much to do with 
many failures often charged to the variety denounced as worthless. Always 
remember, if the originator can grow a variety sucessfully others can, 
when its special requirements are understood. Simply because a variety 
may not be very early, as regards season, that does not, by any means, denote 
it is worthless commercially. For instance, allowing pure white to be, all 
around, the most valuable color, it will be found that an extremely early 
sort often gets partially oS crop toward Christmas and the dull, short days 
of winter; when, by having one of the same color which gives a succession 
of blooms, as to season, coming in with its first crop, say, during Novem- 
ber and early December, it will bridge over the defective season of the early 
variety, and so afiford a continuance of first-quality flowers. 

The selection of cuttings is of the first importance, and great care should 
be exercised that they are taken from the flowering stems of plants that 
arc in robust health, and from varieties in colors commercially valuable. 
Late-blooming sorts should be propagated as early as the first week in Janu- 
ary, while early varieties can be successfully grown from cuttings taken the 
latter part of March. A good average season in which to select the cuttings 
is from February 15 to March 15, providing they can be obtained in num- 
bers sufficient for the needs of the grower ; otherwise, judgment must be 

260 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 

used, as one cannot get a quantity of blooms from late struck stock. Better 
be on the early side. 

A well-ripened cutting is preferable, and a good guide to such is to 
select them from flowering stems with fully-developed buds, and just showing 
color : or with open flowers. Usually the first growth is useless, being spind- 
ling at the base, and inclined to run to bloom. The second and third growths 
are more stocky, and make good plants ; but always try to leave one good 
growth on the flowering stem as a succession to the flower about to be cut, 
as dormant eyes are not desirable, either for stock or a future crop of blooms. 

The cuttings should be sprinkled as soon as severed from the parent 
plant, and great care exercised to prevent wilting, or the cuttings getting 
checked in any way. Remove the lower leaves, but retain the heel, and only 
trim off any loose part. Cut the tops back so as to admit air and light to 
the propagating bed. 

Clean, sharp sand is best for propagating purposes. This should be spread 
on a bench with a tile or brick bottom, firmly pressed down to a depth of three 
inches, and thoroughly watered before inserting the cuttings in it. These 
should be set in rows, three inches apart, and four cuttings to the inch in the 
row, inserting them three-quarters to one inch in depth, pressed firmly, and 
watered. A bottom heat of 60 degrees and a top temperature of 50 to 52 
degrees will insure successful propagation in three to four weeks. Keep 
the beds moderately moist during this time. When the cuttings are rooted, 
pot them off into one and three-quarter-inch pots, shifting to two and one- 
quarter and three and one-half-inch pots as the season advances and the 
plants require the shift ; but never allow them to get stunted, or dry, as this 
last condition is the first step toward the development of stem-rot, and, con- 
sequently, endless trouble. 

Early planting is desirable, and may be done with safety from May 15 
to 20, and later, when danger of severe frost is usually past in this locality. 
Some plant out earlier, and should the season prove favorable, make a decided 
gain in time, at a busy season, and good root action before extreme heat 
sets in ; but a severe frost will more than offset this gain ; and I have found 
it safer to defer planting for a week or two later. Eighteen to twenty inches 
is a convenient distance between the rows, and six to eight inches between 
the plants. Great care should be exercised not to plant too deep, as disaster 
through stem-rot is sure to follow, especially during a wet season. Thor- 
oughly water the balls and roots before planting. Press the soil firmly 
around the ball, but don't set the surface of the ball lower than the level of 
the ground. Where the nature of the soil will permit, begin using the Planet 



Carnation Culture in Alassachusetts 

Junior hand wheel hoe at once, and continue cultivating, on an average, once 
a week. This will keep the soil mellow, attract the night moisture on the 
surface, and retain the bottom moisture, especially should the season prove 
dry. Keep the soil clear of weeds at all times, as these often cause attacks 
of insect pests, and therefore no end of trouble, especially should red spider 
appear. Syringing with common salt, a two and one-quarter-inch pot- 
ful to a pail of water, I have found the best remedy for this evil : and I have 
also checked it by covering the affected plants with fine tobacco dust. 

Great care should be exercised in pinching back the plants while in 
the field ; those with a tendency to bloom late should, in some cases, be 
pinched only once — removing the center shoot. This method usually insures 
a crop for the holidays, without fail. Early bloomers may be pinched as late 
as the latter part of July, or August, and still give early returns. Never 
pinch off all the shoots on a plant at one time, but pursue a method of going 
over the field, say, once a week, and, if necessary, pinch one or two shoots 
on each plant. This will induce a steady supply of flowers later and pre- 
vent them coming in crops. Any variety can be made a "cropper" by stop- 
ping all the shoots at one time, or a grower can help to change the tendency 
of a carnation to "crop" by pinching the stems at an interval of one or two 
weeks apart. 

From July 15 to August 20 is a good time in which to transfer plants 
from the field to the carnation houses. If the weather be exceedingly hot, begin 
lifting a week or ten days later, but try and finish the work not later' tllian 
Augi-ist 20, as plants put in later seldom catch up to, or prove as profitable 
as, early-planted stock, which has thorough root action established before 
artificial heat is applied. 

Thoroughly clean out all old soil from the carnation houses ; repair 
and lime-wash all the woodwork with which the soil comes in contact. 
Spread a layer of stable or old cow manure over the bottom of the bench, 
and then fill in the soil to the depth of five or six inches, loose. Soil that is 
moderately moist is best, as it remains mellow, and does not get hard and 
caked when planting. Press the soil moderately firm before planting. (A 
man treading over the surface once will do it nicely.) Level the soil, and 
stretch wires lengthwise on the benches, eight or ten inches apart ; i)ull these 
wires tight, and secure them to a nail at each end. They act as guides in 
keeping the lines straight, and, with cross strings, are used later as supports 
for the flowers. Wires inserted at this stage save much time and loss through 
lireakage of the flower stems, as they can simjily l)e raised into place when 

262 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 

wanted. No. 12 wire on each side of the bench, and No. 22 galvanized wire 
between the rows, I find the best sizes. 

Send careful men to lift the plants in the field. Be very careful to retain 
the small roots on pot-grown stock. Keep the plants covered from the sun 
to prevent them drying out, and be sure that the balls are moist before plant- 
ing. Of course dull weather is most suited to the operation of transplant- 
ing, but one cannot always wait for it. 

Have a good man working on each side of the bench (and your best 
men are none toO' good, as much depends on careful planting). Instead of 
digging a hole for the plant, pound the soil with the closed fist, which will 
usually make an indention deep enough for the ball ; spread out the roots 
carefully, and be sure that the plant is not set any deeper than it was when 
growing in the field. Deep planting in the houses is a serious matter, and 
the cause of untold loss from stem-rot. 

I find it pays to put a wire support to each plant before planting the 
next ; the old Excelsior support answers the purpose well, as I use the wires 
and twine later. 

Water carefully and in sufficient supply to thoroughly wet the soil 
through in the vicinity of the roots. Shade the houses for a few days, with 
fire-clay, or some material easily removed by rains or hose. Keep all walls, 
and space under the benches, dampened down until root action is well estab- 
lished ; don't allow the plants to get dry and wilted on any account, but avoid 
getting the soil in a water-logged condition, which is equally bad. Keep a 
sharp lookout for aphis and red spider. Fumigating with tobacco stems, 
or powder, is a safeguard for the former; and syringing with salt — a two 
and a quarter-inch potful to a pail of water, and applied in a fine spray — ■ 
is a sure remedy for the latter. Don't wait until you see the pests ; apply 
the preventives once a week or ten days, and remember that "an ounce of 
prevention is worth more than a pound of cure." Carefully pinch off all 
flower stems that come too short, and encourage all strong growth. Dis- 
bud at regular intervals, and as soon as surplus buds can be removed without 
injury to the main flower. 

Cultivate between the rows, just deep enough to remove the weeds 
as they appear ; but don't disturb the small feeding roots, if possible. Should 
the soil show signs of becoming sour, an application of air-slaked lime will 
sweeten and regulate the evil. This lime may be applied with beneficial 
results all through the forcing season. 

See to it that the network of wires and twine is put up before growth 
advances far, as it is then easier applied, and prevents crooked stems and 

26? 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 

breakage later. Six inches above the ring I find a good distance for the 
first tier, and ten to twelve inches above this for the next. But the needs 
of the variety must govern the distance. A light strip of wood, seven- 
eighths of an inch square, with a groove cut with a saw in each end, should 
run across the bed, at distances of five or six feet apart. The outside No. 
12 wires, inserted into these grooves, keep the wires at a uniform distance, 
and allow tightening of the cross strips. Two-ply hemp is a good size to 
use. A sixpenny nail driven through, about one inch from each end of 
the cross strips, and inserted in the end of a bamboo cane, pushed down 
firmly to the bottom of the bench, and cut to the desired height, will keep 
the whole framework at a uniform distance from the surface of the bench. 
The strainers at the extreme ends of the bench can be made of pipe or angle- 
iron, which are neater in appearance than wood. 

A night temperature of 52 to 55 degrees is a safe one to maintain dur- 
ing the winter months, with a rise of 15 degrees during the day, when 
sunny. 

Plants that have been housed early in July will benefit by a light stimu- 
lant, in the form of weak liquid manure, during the latter part of November 
or December, but later planted stock will not require any extra nourish- 
ment for a month subsequently, providing the proper ingredients were incor- 
porated into the soil before planting time. 

Regarding the compost to use, in the l-'.ast. where loam is f^en- 
erally shallow, the best plan is to pioui^h the sod on an old pasture 
as soon as the liay is cut, which is usually during June or early 
in July. In the fall this should be stacked in ridges eight to 
ten feet wide and two to tiiree feet deep, turning the grass side down; 
and a liberal dressing, say, about one foot of cow manure, or half stable 
manure, spread over the surface, and allowed to remain vmtil early spring, 
when the whole should be cut up, thoroughly mixed, and a liberal sprink- 
ling of bone meal applied. I have found it beneficial to apply half the fer- 
tilizer in the fall, when stacking up the sod, and the balance during spring, 
when turning and mixing the compost, as bone meal often requires months 
to decompose sufficiently to be available for plant food ; and when applied 
as a top dressing indoors, during winter, has not become of service until 
after the soil has been cleaned out for the next season's crop, and so its 
fertilizing benefits have been lost. 

As a stimulant, weak applications of liquid manure are beneficial dur- 
ing the spring and summer months, for general culture. For several vears 
I have used pulverized sheep manure as a top dressing (instead of liquid) 

264 



Carnation Culture in Massachusetts 



with good results, applying it every two to three weeks during the spring 
and summer, affording two handfuls to the row on a four and one-half to five- 
foot bench. When the soil showed signs of becoming sour, that condition is 
easily rectified by an application of air-slaked lime, which should be at once 
watered into the soil to prevent the lime getting hard upon the surface. 

Always keep a sharp lookout for insect pests. Fumigate regularly with 
the most effective and cheapest remedy procurable. Spray with salt to pre- 
vent attacks of red spider, but don't let the solution touch the blooms. Dis- 
bud regularly, and as soon as tlie surplus buds can be removed. Pay close 
attention to maintaining the proper night and day temperatures, affording 
ample ventilation on all favorable occasions ; and keep the houses scrupu- 
lously clean of all rubbish, as this means health to the plants. 

PETER FISHER 

Peter Fisher of Ellis, Mass., was born November 4, 1857, at St. Colmes Farm, 
Parish of Dowalh'. Perthshire, Scotland, the home farm of the Duke of Athol, to whom 

his father was land steward for a period of 
nineteen years until his death in September, 
1861. i\Ir. Fisher received his early educa- 
tion in the parish schools of Dunkeld, Perth- 
shire, Scotland, and at the age of fifteen began 
to serve an apprenticeship of three years in 
the Dunkeld Gardens, the seat of the Dowager 
Duchess of Athol. There he remained for 
seven years, subsequently removing to Lon- 
don, England, where he was employed in the 
nurseries of B. S. Williams, Upper Hollo- 
way, and, later, in private establishments in 
the south and north of England. 

Air. Fisher came to America in 1884, land- 
ing in New York on June 22 of that year. 
He was first employed on the Payson Estate 
in Belmont, Mass., and, subsequently, at Oak- 
ley, Mass., on the estate of Robert M. Pratt, 
Esq. In company with his brother, he started 
in business in a cominercial way in Septem- 
ber. 1886, under the firm name of Fisher Bros. 
& Co. Having sold out his interest in that 
concern, Mr. Fisher moved to Ellis, Mass., 
on May 31, 1890. Here he became actively 
interested in the carnation in 1892. In 1893 
he raised the varieties Edith Foster and 
Freedom, both white varieties, crosses of Lizzie JMcGowan and Silver Spray. Edith 
Foster was disseminated in 1896 and Freedom in 1897. The now famous Mrs. Thomas 

265 




Peter Fisher 



Carnation Cultnre in Richmond, Indiana 

W. Lawson carnation, cerise, was disseminated in 1900. The price at which this 
carnation was sold was $11,500, the highest figure ever obtained for one variety of 
carnation up to that time. The Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson carnation was raised from 
Daybreak, crossed with Van Leeuwen, the former variety being the seed bearer, the lat- 
ter the pollen parent in color, cerise, resembling the variety Tidal Wave. The seed was 
sown April 2, 1894. and the first flowers were obtained in September of the same year. 
The variety Mrs. Lawson has won five silver cups, two silver medals, a gold medal at 
The American Carnation Society meeting, held at Baltimore in 1901, and numerous cer- 
tificates of merit. 

Another of Mr. Fisher's productions is the variety Governor Wolcott, white, which 
was disseminated in 1902. It was obtained from Flora Hill, white, crossed with Mrs. 
Thos. W. Lawson, cerise, the former being the seed bearer. The seed of this variety 
was sown in March, 1898, and the plants bloomed the following September. It has 
been awarded numerous certificates of merit. 

Enchantress, another of Mr. Fisher's productions, was raised from Mrs. Geo. M. 
Bradt variety crossed with Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson, in 1899. The seed was sown in 
March of that year ; the variety first bloomed in the following .\ugust. Enchantress 
is being introduced to the trade by The J. D. Thompson Carnation Co., of Joliet, 111., 
to whom Mr. Fisher sold all the stock, less 3,000 plants for his own use, for the sum 
of $7,000. 



Carnation Culture in Richmond, Indiana 

Bv K. G. Hii.L 

Carnation cultiu-o lias rL-ceived no small degree of consideration at the 
hands of growers and speciahsts in this grand state of the ]\'Iiddle West. 
The attention of the trade growers of the country was directed toward this 
section, some twelve years ago, by a number of fine seedhng novehies which 
had been originated in the State. The influence of Mr. Fred. Dorner's im- 
proved varieties tended to awaken and stimulate additional interest in the 
flower, both in his own section and throughout the whole country. This 
influence has its full effect here, at Richmond, and, as a consequence, the 
cross-fertilization of the carnation was gone into, with very interesting 
results. Armazindy, Triumph, and Flora Hill were the products of our 
earlier work ; America and Gaiety, of more recent efforts. 

In addition to the improvement of this flower, by the introduction of 
finer sorts, entirely new cultural methods were adopted gradually, through 
several years of careful experimenting, which has been done in a conserva- 
tive and painstaking manner, requiring infinite patience in waiting for results, 
and in recording them for future use. The new culture has worked wonders 
for the carnation. The methods adopted began with the cuttings used for 

266 



Carnation Culture in Richmond, Indiana 

propagation, and their treatment while being rooted on the bench. HeaUhy, 
vigorous side-shoots are selected; these are placed in clean, sharp sand, 
and are rooted in as cool a temperature as is practicable. It is absolutely 
essential that the sand be in the right condition ; it must be clean, gritty, and 
free from loam, or other extraneous material. It is now generally believed 
that much of the disease called stem-rot is generated in impure sand, aided 
by a too-warm temperature. The sand is seldom used more than once, unless 
it be washed and dried thoroughly between times. 

After the cuttings are rooted thoroughly, they are either pricked off 
into shallow flats, or planted out on the bench in a good carnation soil. The 
endeavor is made to keep this young stock in a house by itself, giving 
an abundance of air, and keeping a close watch to prevent the insect enemies 
of the carnation from getting a foothold. This is very important, for severe 
injury is often inflicted upon young stock by these pests, from which they 
never full)' recover. 

Here, at Richmond, the young plants are set out in the open ground 
as early in the spring as the soil can be worked. This method is preferred 
to growing indoors through the summer, though a few varieties like Mrs. 
Thomas W. Lawson are cultivated in the house, with very satisfactory 
results. 

The preparation of the field for growing carnations is very important. 
If the ground is low, or inclined to be wet, imderdraining is resorted to ; 
if the ground is a stifif clay loam, it is the better for being sub-soiled. 
Manure is applied, old well-rotted humus being preferred. This is placed 
on the soil the preceding summer, and is ploughed in, to thoroughly incor- 
porate it with the soil, and to render it easy of assimilation by the plants. A 
Planet Junior wheel hoe is used in cultivation ; the rows being about twenty 
inches apart. 

The matter of pinching is largely a question of variety, some sorts requir- 
ing more nipping back than others. 

If climatic conditions are favorable, we prefer lifting our plants the 
latter part of July, usually finishing early in August. 

We use for compost, for indoor planting, a good loam, enriched with 
one-eighth manure and with a liberal admixture of bone-flour; this is com- 
posted usually a year in advance, and is turned at least once before using. 
We place four to five inches of soil on our benches in which the plants are 
grown. We prefer for the bottoms of our benches the ordinary soft three- 
inch clay tile : these tiles afiford a good drainage, and their porous character 
prevents anything like over-watering in dark weather. 

267 



Carnation Culture in Richmond, Indiana 

In supporting the carnation, we use a circle of wire, with a bent foot 
for the first help ; after that, wires are strung lengthwise of the bed, these 
being cross-laced with twine, through which the stems of the carnations rise 
as they grow. Two sets of wires, with mterlaced twine, one above the other, 
are necessary as the plants increase in height, the spacing of the second above 
the first tier depending upon the length of stem of the variety supported. 

The distance that plants are spaced on the benches is usually ten or 
eleven inches ; some varieties re(|uiro wiiler spacing than others, and often an 
unusually favorable growing season will necessitate planting twelve by twelve 
inches. 

We seldom use stimulants, in the shape of liquids, or chemical fertilizers, 
until the end of January, and then in a very cautious manner. We do, 
however, use a mulch of old, well-rotted cow manure over our benches soon 
after the plants start on their winter's growth. This is not so much for 
the enrichment of the soil, as to prevent excessive evaporation on sunny days, 
and to keep the soil in a nice, moist condition for the working of the young 
roots. 

Wittering is a science, and should be done by a careful and competent 
man. It is one of those processes requiring an intelligent knowledge of 
soils and plant natures, where extremes must be avoided, and where each 
variety must be studied individually and water applied accordingly to keep 
the plants in healthy, thrifty growth. One advantage of the tile bench is, 
that it speedily corrects over-watering, wdiich is direfully fatal in dark 
weather, but on the other hand, the porosity of the tile requires a sharp 
watch that the roots do not dry out in warm and sunny weather. 

Air is a prime factor in the healthy growth of carnations. Give air 
on every sunny day ; and even in damp and wet weather it is still beneficial. 
Better use a little heat to dry the atmosphere, even if it does go out of the 
ventilators, and so sweeten and purify the house. 

A temperature of 52 to 54 degrees will be found productive of good, 
hardy growth, with, say, 56 degrees for Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson and 
Ethel Crocker. 

Fungoid diseases and insect pests are present where inattention, or 
carelessness, is allowed to govern. The use of tobacco is essential in keeping 
down aphis and some other pests. Bordeaux mixture is a preventive of rust ; 
but a careful picking of the infected foliage will tend to eradicate this dis- 
ease. 

268 



Carnation Culture in Richmond, Indiana 



Edward Gurney 
parents came to tliis 



KDWARD GL'RXFA' HILL 

Hill was born in Lancashire, England, in 1847. and with his 
country in 1S51. When quite a lad he entered the greenhouses 
of Messrs. T. C. Maxwell & Bros., Geneva, 
New York. In 1881 he formed a partner- 
ship with his father, and together they 
founded the present business at Richmond, 
Indiana. Mr. Hill has been an enthusiastic 
lover of greenhouse work from his boyhood 
up. Hybridization and cross-fertilization 
have always had a special attraction for him, 
not only as regards carnations, but in all the 
leading lines of plants. 

Mr. Hill became deeply interested in car- 
nation culture in 1890, from a cut flower 
point of view. Previous to that, and dating 
back to 1884, the firm had bought the novel- 
ties as ofifered, and had grown La Purite. 
Portia, Tidal Wave, Daybreak and Heintz's 
White in quantity. In 1890, the concern pur- 
chased a large number of seedlings from Mr. 
Fred. Dorner, many of which proved extra- 
ordinarily fine as to blooming qualities, al- 
though all have been dropped by growers on 
account of defects which barred them from 
success when grown commercially. Among 
these may be remembered Edna Craig, Fred. 
Dorner, Edwin Lonsdale, Christine, Hoosier, Indiana, Creole, Red Cross, San Mateo, 
Canada, Cherry Lips, Sea Gull and Ben Hur. A number of the kinds rianied would 
still rank with the finest if only the quality of bloom produced needed to be considered, 
apart from freedom, earliness or cost of production — factors not so carefully scanned 
ten years ago as at the present day, for we were then working with more than one 
unknown quantity in the carnation line. 

About this time Mr. Hill's firm began growing seedling carnations on quite a 
large scale. Several years were required to test the varieties, and it was not until 
1896 that any sorts of their own origination were sent out, when they introduced 
Triumph, Armazindy, Abundance and Jubilee, the latter purchased from Mr. John 
Hartje, of Indianapolis. 

In 1897 the firm introduced the two seedlings, Flora Hill and Mrs. McBurney; in 
i8g8. Painted Lady, Psyche; in 1899, America; and in 1903, Adonis, which was pur- 
chased from Richard Witterstjetter and introduced jointly by Messrs. Robert Craig 
and E. G. Hill. 

Mr. Hill has always been an enthusiastic worker for horticultural improvement 
and a loyal proponent and supporter of horticulturists' organizations. He is a member 
of The AiTierican Carnation Society, The Society of American Florists, The American 
Rose Society. The Indiana State Florists' Society, as well as other horticultural asso- 
ciations. 

269 




Edward Gurney Hill 



Carnation Culture in the Mountains 
Carnation Culture in the Mountains 

Ilv Henry Wehf.k. (>aki.aM), Mn. 

Variations in latitude, altitude, climate, etc., while having their effect 
on the modes of culture pursued b}- growers thus differently situated, do 
not, to any appreciable extent, alter the fundamental principles underlying the 
successful culture of the carnation. 

Here, in the mountain district of Western Maryland, nearly 3,000 feet 
above tidewater, we find ourselves handicapped by extremely late frosts in 
the spring, and very early visitations in the fall. Owing to the former, we 
are very seldom able to commence field planting before May 20, and occa- 
sionally later ; we therefore are frequently as late as June 5 to 10 in finishing 
up that work. 

The eft'ect of this must be at once apparent to those who plant in April 
and early May. (Jur plants do not get sufficiently developed in the field 
to permit us to plant in the house until the last of July, or first week 
in August. We are thus compelled to carry our young stock inside for 
from four to si.x weeks longer than the majority of growers, necessitating 
a quick dispatch of field-planting, when the proper season arrives. This 
handicap is partially offset by our cool nights during the summer, when the 
temperature ranges anywhere from 42 to 65 degrees. We are also very 
rarely troubled with drought, l.nit more often have a wet season. On the 
whole, the growing conditions during the summer frequently approach the 
ideal. 

By September i we can expect light frosts, and severe ones by the 15th, 
but occasionally we escape these until October i. This, however, is unusual. 
We are thus not only compelled to carry our stock inside much longer than 
the average grower, but are also obliged to have our fields cleared of valu- 
able plants proportionately earlier in the fall. Our firing season is affected 
in a like manner, ending usually about May 15 to 20, and commencing in 
September. 

We begin propagating in December, and continue until j\Iay I to 10. We 
much prefer the early propagated stock, particularly in the case of such 
varieties as Mrs. Thomas W. Lawson, Cressbrook, Prosperity and Norway. 
Cuttings taken prior to February 15 can be depended upon, invariably, to give 
the best results, providing they receive proper attention as soon as rooted, 
and until they are transferred to the field. 

Our propagating houses are all of the north-side type. We consider 
them far superior to those which admit the direct rays of the sun. They are 



Carnation Culture in tlie Mountains 

more easily managed and regulated, particularly as regards temperature and 
watering, the two most vital requisites connected with the unrooted cuttings. 
Frequent watering and spraying is unnecessary, thus largely diminishing 
the chances, or possibilities, of the development of cutting-bench fungus ; in 
fact, if the pips are not put too closely in the sand, we have not the slightest 
fear of this disease. In this connection, I might say that we are never 
compelled to renew our sand during the entire season. 

We ascribe all this to the advantages of the north-side propagating 
house, properly heated and ventilated, and the comparatively little watering 
and spraying required, as compared with a house which admits the direct 
rays of the sun. The tendency to make soft growth in the north-side house 
is practically overcome by keeping the cuttings on the dry side, as soon as 
they begin to make roots, and their being removed as soon as strong enough. 

We use ordinary creek sand, which contains more or less loam, decayed 
particles of twigs, leaves, etc. We consider the loam and other materials 
mentioned beneficial rather than detrimental, for the reason that as soon as 
the first tiny rootlets appear, they begin to take some nourishment ; and until 
they are removed from the sand, in ten to fifteen days, they are adding to 
the vitality, instead of being obliged to subsist on what small amount remains 
to them, as in the case where absolutely clean sand is' used, and which con- 
tains no nourishment. 

In taking cuttings, we are not so particular as to what portion of the 
plant the pips come from, as we are about the health and strength of the 
plants. We refrain, however, from taking the topmost pips from the flower- 
ing stems, and, also, the slow growth at the base of the plant. We also 
prefer the cuttings to be of good size, and well developed. What we con- 
sider the best cuttings are those taken from the short shoots before they 
begin to lengthen, preparatory to developing buds. We break off these 
shoots several joints away from the stem; cuttings so taken we regard as 
being the ideal. 

We do very little trimming, and usually confine this operation to 
removing the bottom leaves so as to prevent their lying flat on the sand ; and, 
if the cuttings are very long, we remove a little from the top. The more 
foliage removed the less vitality the pip has left on which to subsist until 
rooted, or potted, or boxed up. 

We grow as much of our young stock as we can on benches, in two 
and one-half or three inches of fairly rich soil ; and set the cuttings about three 
inches apart each way. As soon as established, we grow them cool, both 
night and day, affording plenty of fresh air. 

271 



Carnation Culture in tlie Mountains 

Next to this s_\steni. we prefer Hats, with treatment similar to that above 
described. 

We regard growing cuttings in pots as the least desirable method, unless 
the stock is frequently repotted, or removed to flats, or benches, before the 
plants become potbound. 

Before cutting back, we allow a young plant to attain a height of six or 
eight inches, this depending somewhat on the variety; and then we only 
remove the tip sufficiently to prevent the center from growing out again. 
This induces branching out a little distance above the soil, and makes a fast, 
strong, vigorous plant. If cut back close to the soil, when still small, a slow 
and checked plant is the result, with branches close to the ground, inviting 
all sorts of fungous diseases, and proving a harbor for snails and other pests. 

(!)ur preparation of the field, to receive the young plants in the spring, 
consists of putting on a good coating of stable manure (cow preferred) on 
either a clover or timothy sod, and plowing it under in November. To this 
is added, early in the spring, a light dressing of lime and a good dressing 
of kainit and bone meal. As soon as the soil is dry enough, we cut it up with 
a disk harrow, repeating this operation often enough to prevent weeds 
from growing. A smoothing harrow and leveler is next used, when we 
are ready to plant. The plants are set fifteen inches apart, each way, with 
ten rows to a bed. 

At first, a wheel hoe, consisting simply of a sharp blade being passed 
horizontally just beneath the surface, is the only cultivation the plants 
receive. As they become larger, this hoe is discarded for a siuall shovel 
machine, that goes a trifle deeper. This cultivation, after every rain, or 
oftener if the weather be very dry, is all the plants receive, excepting that 
they are carefully hoed by hand once, and sometimes twice, during the 
season. All cultivation is discontinued, usually, by August i. 

In preparing soil for planting in. we top-dress either clover or timothy 
soil heavily with stable manure, and plough under to the depth of five 
to si.K inches. A heavy dressing of bonemeal, kainit and a little nitrate of 
soda, is then worked in with a disk harrow, after which the ground is again 
ploughed, and more bone nieal, etc., applied. After another harrowing, the 
soil is ready to stack up conveniently near the houses, this being done in 
November. When ready to plant in, the soi' is worked over with spades, and 
made fine. In planting, we use five inches of soil, placing the plants from 
ten to fourteen inches apart each way. 

We always prefer to lift the plants when the soil is fairly dry, sprinkling 
them in the field as soon as put in boxes. We never shade when planting in ; 



Carnation Culture in the Mountains 

and leave some soil on the roots. After the first good watering, just above 
the roots, we spray frequently, if the weather is bright, and keep the ventila- 
tors wide open. As the plants begin to take hold, we discontinue spraying, 
excepting at intervals, to wash them off, and to assist in keeping down red 
spider. For this pest we use salt water, applied with an "Auto-Spray" 
pump. This application also assists in keeping down snails and other insects. 
A four-inch potful of salt to two gallons of water is used, and, when washed 
off the plants with the hose, is very beneficial, making the growth firm. 
and improving the color. 

We have discarded the V-shaped wire netting, and consider the wire 
stretched horizontally between the rows, and twine cross-wise, as infinitely 
superior, as well as cheaper than any other supporting device yet invented. 
The work of giving support is attended to as soon as planting is finished ; 
after which, a light mulch, of especially prepared rich soil, is put on and 
worked in lightly. 

If we plant early in August, we commence feeding with liquid manure in 
November, provided the plants are growing vigorously, the amount of stimu- 
lating they can stand depending entirely on how the soil is managed, thorough 
watering, and the manner in which temperature and ventilation are regulated. 

A temperature of 58 to 60 degrees for the early part of the night, with 
a drop to 55 or 50 degrees by morning, is, we believe, the ideal temperature, 
and in keeping with the natural conditions as we find them when the plants 
make their best growth out-of-doors. A day temperature of 60 to 65 degrees, 
for cloudy days, and 70 to 80 degrees, for sunlight, is our rule. If the air out- 
side is cold, we adhere to the first figures, and, if warm, the latter. 

We believe in disbudding, and attend rigorously to this item, allowing 
the side buds to get large enough to be easily handled before removing them. 

At the approach of late spring, we give an occasional dressing of nitrate 
of soda, simply broadcasting it thinly over the plants before watering. 
In this way the vitality of the plants can l)e prolonged well into the 
summer. 

We begin shading from the middle to he latter part of April, using 
naphtha, or gasolene, and white lead. 

HENRY WEBER 

Henry Weber, of Oakland, Maryland, was born in the Province of Hessen-Cassel, 
Germany, in 183s. His father, John Weber, was a farmer and died at the age of 
sixty-three. The subject of this sketch is the youngest and only survivor of five children. 

As is customary in Germany, Henry Weber attended the Government schools until he 

18 273 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 



was fourteen years old, when, having from his earliest days shown an unusual love for 
flowers, he was apprenticed to a florist, and a few years thereafter was made foreman of 

his employer's gardens and greenhouses, on 
account of his executive ability. 

Having a natural inclination to travel, at 
nineteen years of age he entered the British 
,\rniy. serving during the Crimean War. 
During his ten years' service in the British 
.\rmy he was stationed at various points in 
.\sia. .\frica. Australia and New Zealand, 
wlicro lie had many thrilling experiences, 
particularly in the Hottentot country. 

In 1885 he decided to come to America, 
and with his brother John, who had pre- 
ceded him, embarked in general farming and 
market gardening, at Mount Savage, Alle- 
tjheny Co., Maryland. At the end of five 
years he sold his interest to his brother, and 
removed to Cumberland, Maryland, where he 
established a general market gardening and 
florist business. In 1879, he bought a tract of 
land in Garrett County, adjoining the town of 
Oaliland, where he established the present flor- 
ist business. The soil and climate proving 
particularly favorable for carnation growing, 
special attention was paid to the culture of 
that 'plant. '__which [was started on a very 
modest scale with a view of buildiny; up a local trade. 

Mr. Weber thinks there is a great future for the carnation and that its improve- 
ment has only fairly begun. He also believes that Nature's laws regarding color and 
many other mysteries of plant life will be gradually imfolded to the persevering and 
untiring stuilent. He takes nnich delight in the raising and cultivation of seedlings. 
He is also a firm believer m the ultimate success of sub-watering, and of the indoor 
culture of carnations. 

Mr. Weber is an active member of The American Carnation Society, The Society 
of American Florists, and other organizations. 




Hknkv Wkhhk 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 

Rv Rii HAkii WiTiERST.ic I ri' K. Sf.d.\msvim,f,, Ohio. 

I commence propagation in January, only of sucli varieties of which 
the stock is limited, and those tliat do not make very large plants from 
later propagation, Estelle and jNIrs. George M. Bradt being good types. I 



274 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 

prefer to take cuttings of the larger growing varieties from February to 
the middle of March. 

The style of propagating bed is one built of bricks, laid end to end on 
four-inch strips of one-inch lumber (red cedar, as it outlasts pine or 
hemlock four to one). This exposes just one-half the bottom of the bed 
to the heating pipes underneath. About two inches of clean sand is used. 
This sand should never be employed the second time, as experience has 
proven it dangerous, apt to breed fungus and cause other troubles, such 
as damping, etc., no matter how temptingly clean the sand may appear. The 
shading material should never be permitted to lie directly on the cuttings, 
as it creates a smothering atmosphere that is detrimental. A space of 
six inches (twelve inches will be found better) should at least be allowed. 

In selecting the cuttings from the blooming plant, the pips on the stem, 
just where the stem is cut, and upward, should be used ; the one on top 
not being taken. From such varieties as do not make many cuttings along 
the stem, I prefer to take the cuttings about the plant before they shoot 
to a flowering stem. 

All cuttings are potted after being rooted, and are grown in a cool 
temperature. After root action has started, the pots are plunged out in some 
light soil (screened ashes from the boiler pit preferred, as these contain 
no weed seed that will become troublesome) in cold frames, during March. 
This helps the plants to harden for early planting, and there is no danger 
of their becoming pot-bound. Plants in cold frames have an advantage 
over those in the house, as the sash can be removed on any warm, bright 
day, and the warm rains being permitted to fall on the stock during the 
first part of April, before planting out, induce vigorous growth, which the 
plants do not attain in the house under the most careful attention. 

Our planting season begins about the middle of April and ends about the 
loth of May. It is very essential to the season's quality and quantity of 
cut blooms to have plants, at lifting time, in the most vigorous and healthy 
condition, and no amount of care should be spared in attaining this end. 

In preparing the soil for planting, we give the same a top-dressing 
of good stable manure, ploughing to a depth and harrowing it thoroughly. 
After this, we reverse the harrow and drag the field, which leaves the sur- 
face smooth and well pulverized. Each plant is watered when set out, as a 
safeguard against its wilting before the next rain, as we are liable to have 
very drying winds at this season, and there is danger of the ball becoming 
dry. 

275 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 

Plants are set six to ten inches apart, the space depending upon the 
variety ; small growing sorts the former distance, and larger ones the latter. 
The distance between rows depends upon the method of cultivation; if 
for wheel hoe cultivation, sixteen inches : and for horse cultivator, twenty-six 
inches apart. Whatever mctliod is used, we always follow with a hand 
hoeing, stirring the soil about the plant, which is done at least every 
two weeks, or oftener, as the conditions require, when weeds become trouble- 
some, or after a good rain. I have always noticed that after a hot, dry 
spell of weather, followed by a rain with a hot, humid atmosphere, stem rot 
is more prevalent, and we lose no time in giving the soil a thorough stirring, 
as a means of checking it ; in fact, I firmly believe this operation to be the 
means of saving quite a lot of plants, not only at this period, but at any 
other time when this disease makes its appearance. 

We are always particular in attending to the topping of our plants once 
a week, up to the time of lifting, the last time just previous to lifting, as by 
this method the plants are not so liable to give their flowers in crops, and 
produce a more uniform cut than otherwise. The top should be taken out 
just as it begins to shoot a flower stem. Should the whole of the plants 
show this latter tendency, we take a part of the tops, allowing the others 
to be taken a week or two hence, to prevent the plants coming in crops. 
This practice is usually followed the latter part of June and July. We have 
been lifting earlier each year, and do not think after July 15 any too soon to 
do this work, providing the weather is favorable ; that is, not extremely hot. 

The soil for the benches is ploughed up in April, a good blue grass 
sod being selected, which is turned under to the depth of about four inches, 
then harrowed immediately and cultivated whenever weeds appear. We 
add no manure of any kind, as I believe that the plants, when lifted in the 
early part of summer, start off better in this soil than when fertilizers have 
been added. These are always afforded as the plants progress. Two years 
ago, during a very severe drought at lifting time, I had a variety planted 
in two separate lots in a field ; one lot being planted on the edge, along a row 
of fruit trees. This lot was badly wilted, and being anxious to have them 
planted in the same house, at the same time as the others, I lifted the wilted 
plants, and after cleaning them of all the dead leaves the roots of the plants 
were placed in a tub containing about five inches of water, for about two 
hours, to freshen them up before planting. These plants recovered so much 
better than the remainder not so treated, that we have adopted this system 
ever since, in the case of all our plants, with gratifying results. 

In shading, I prefer whiting, or air-slaked lime, put on evenly. Any 

276 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 

dark shade, such as clay, I beheve to be injurious to the plants, inducing a 
somewhat soft growth. Just enough ventilation is given the first two or three 
days to obtain a moderate circulation of air, gradually increasing the ventila- 
tion from day to day until the plants will take the full extent. Shading is 
also gradually diminished. After this, ventilation is kept on night and day, 
the ventilators being lowered only in case of storms. 

We syringe overhead often enough to keep down red spider, which is 
about two or three times a week ; or oftener, as the weather demands. This 
is kept up until there is danger of the plants not drying off before late in the 
day. We do not syringe overhead after November 15 or December i, until 
March i to 15. If red spider appears, we use a solution of common salt and 
water (a 4-inch potful of salt to an ordinary bucket of water), and spray 
the plants thoroughly in the morning of any bright, sunny day. Before this 
practice is resorted to, all blooms must be cut close, as the syringing will 
make them worthless. We have never had any bad effects from the salt on 
the plants, although we have used it strong enough to have small crystals of 
salt form upon them, after they had become thoroughly dry. 

Staking, or supporting, should be attended to as soon as the plants show 
any signs of making growth, as those supported in time show a greater 
advance than others not supported. A delay of from ten to fourteen days 
will disclose a marked difference. 

After the plants have thoroughly recovered, weeds will make their 
appearance. These are removed either by hand or weeder, as the con- 
dition of the soil permits. If the soil be hard or baked, we use a weeder; 
if otherwise, we use our hands, stirring the soil to the depth of half an 
inch, or as lightly as possible, after which a light mulching is afforded 
to prevent any further hardening of the top soil. Then we begin feeding 
moderately with liquid manure (this usually six or eight weeks after lifting). 
About December we give a top-dressing of dried blood and pure, finely- 
ground bonemeal ; two parts of bone and one of dried blood, using a heaping 
handful between the rows, half-way across a five-foot bench, evenly dis- 
tributed over the surface. A similar dose is applied again in April, followed 
shortly by another light mulching of well-rotted stable manure, as a pre- 
ventive of rapid evaporation, which takes place at this season of the year. 

Ventilation is given on cold, bright days during the winter months, as 
soon as the temperature is affected by the sun ; gradually, as it is necessary, 
reducing it with the lowering of the temperature. I find it essential to the 
welfare of the plants to guard against any sudden drop, or rise, in the temper- 

277 



Carnation Culture in Ohio 



ature, which is sure to liappen if ventilation is not attended to on cold, 
bright, clear days ; in fact, at all times. 

The care and treatment from October i to April i may be summed up 
as follows : 

Gradually increase the quantity of liquid food until about December 
15; then afford less and at longer intervals through mid-winter, augmenting 
the quantity again wdien spring suns appear and the plants are moving more 
rapidly. Guard against uneven night and day temperatures, which are 
maintained 48 to 52 degrees for night, six to eight degrees higher on dark 
days, and 65 to 70 degrees on bright days. Practice no excessive watering, 
especially in cloudy and moist weather ; if necessary, frequent and light 
watering is the method preferred. Ventilation, even at the expense of firing, 
to change the atmosphere every twenty-four hours is afforded. Further 

supports are added ]iriimptly whenever 
necessary. 

RICH.^f'lD WITTER.ST.KTTEK 

Kicharil W'ittersta-tter was born at Sedams- 
N'ille, L)hio, on November 17, 1859, where 
he has ever since resided. He began the 
growing of the carnation about 1880, when 
President Degraw and I.a Purite were the 
only varieties lie cultivated. His first work 
at hybridizing the i."arnation was done in 
1S90, and although he has raised thousands 
of seedlings his introductions have been lim- 
ited to only four sorts, namely, Emma 
Wocher, light pink; Evelina, white; Estelle, 
scarlet; and Adonis, also scarlet. The latter 
variety was sold to Messrs. Craig and Hill, 
who are introducing it. Mr. Witterstaetter is 
a very careful, painstaking hybridizer, and a 
most enthusiastic member of The American 
Carnation Society, of which he has been the 
\\ 1 1 lEKsr.i riKK \'ice-president and acting president. 




278 



Carnation Growing in the South 

B\ \V. R. SnEL.MLKE, Atlanta, Ga. 

The average florist in the North has very little idea of the changed con- 
ditions under which floriculture is carried on by his Southern brother. He 
would be surprised to know that, should he change his location for these 
parts, his trade in great measure would have to be learned over again. Of 
course, the general principles are the same, but to apply those principles 
would mean to him another apprenticeship at the business. 

The most marked changes are those of soil and climate. The Northern 
man naturally expects to find considerable difference in climate, but the 
matter of soil will hardly occur to him, or he will surmise that the choice of 
a suitable soil is merely a matter of selection. The truth is, there is no soil 
at all here as we understand that word in the North, and, practically, there 
is no sod from which to make greenhouse compost ; consequently, the very 
foundation of successful floriculture is apparently lacking. The deficiency 
must be made up by the skillful manipulation of the material at hand. That 
which experience has taught us to be the most suitable is the red clay of the 
district. There is a choice even in this, the most desirable being of a dark 
red color and even texture, free from stones and admixture of any kind. It 
is dug from the bank, the same as brick clay, and to the depth of several 
feet, perhaps. 

After being thoroughly broken up with rakes, this soil is mixed with 
about one-quarter well-rotted stable manure and what bone would equal 
lOO pounds applied to a 150-foot bench. I give the formula generally used, 
but it may, of course, vary to suit different purposes. This, when thoroughly 
mixed, constitutes the "soil" used for carnations, roses, etc. When placed on 
the benches, this material is packed hard by the feet, and the plants well 
firmed after planting. All potting, too, is done very firm. Experience has 
taught that all things do better in the available soil when thus well firmed. 

A limited supply of green-grass sod is found in places, but it has not 
proved suitable. 

Bermuda sod can also be had in quantity, but the roots are so full of 
vitality that it is not possible to use this grass in a compost. It would 
also grow on the benches and prove very troublesome. 

Nearly all things thrive admirably in this red clay mixture, although 
in the clay itself weeds will hardly grow. Still, it is more or less of a 
handicap, and requires cautious management and no little skill, particularly 
in the matter of watering. 

279 



Carnation Growing in the South 

Reference is not here made to soils, agriculturally speaking. The 
South has abundance and to spare of fertile farm lands. But good sod from 
which to prepare the very best soil for greenhouse purposes, and which is 
considered to lie at the very foundation of successful floriculture, is cer- 
tainl}' almost wholly lacking in this section of the South, at least. 

Climate I put secondary. There is a long summer of at least five 
months, the weather conditions being very similar to those in July and 
August in the North. During this period, if clear, the plants take a good 
deal of water and daily syringing, also all the air possible by top and side 
ventilation. The glass, too, should be well shaded. 

The winters are short. Freezing weather is experienced in December, 
January, February and March; 15 or 20 degrees is then common; at times 
it is colder. During some winters, at long intervals, zero or below is 
reached. There is little snow, and the ground does not remain frozen for 
more than a few days at a time. The weather changes are often sudden 
and severe and high winds are frequent. In fact, the winter is comparable 
to the month of March in the Middle States ; consequently, substantial glass- 
houses are required, with a good boiler capacity. 

For the best results, it is considered that Northern-grown field plants are 
preferable. These are usually planted in August. Plants are grown here 
in open ground only with great difficulty. The soil is against the method to 
start with ; droughts are often severe ; the sunshine is intense, and the red 
spider, thrips and other insect pests are persistent, even with frequent syring- 
ing and irrigation. 

The carnation can be propagated in the cool months without difficulty, 
and grown indoors in pots perfectly with care. But grown either in the 
open ground, or indoors in pots, the cost is too great, and the plants from 
the North are considered the cheaper. 

All these remarks apply more particularly to the vicinity of Atlanta, 
Georgia, but would also include that large section of the South where the 
red clay predominates. 

It seems to me that what the South needs is to develop an individuality 
in the growing of greenhouse products. Varieties of carnations and other 
plants should be produced suitable to its soil, and perfectly acclimated. The 
glass structures should not follow Northern lines or ideas, but a form should 
be developed better suited to the climate. These changes no doubt will take 
place in time. 

280 



Carnation Culture in California 



WARREN R. SHELMIRE 

Warren R. Slielmire was born in Philadelphia in 1850. He removed to the country 
_ at the age of nineteen. In 1884 Mr. Shel- 

mire started in the florist business at Avon- 
dale, Pa., and immediately began the growing 
of carnations, becoming very much inter- 
ested in the obtaining of new seedlings. His 
success was at the first indififerent, but, as 
he puts it. "the lesson must be learned sooner 
or later by the seedling grower, that im- 
provement comes very slowly and the prizes 
are few indeed." Although he placed upon 
the market several new varieties, he had but 
one real good one, namely, Eldorado. This 
variety was the result of deliberate crossings 
along certain lines. The pollen of certain 
kinds seems to be potent in a definite direc- 
tion ; for instance, he found in his experi- 
ments that the pollen of Golden Gate almost 
invariably produced a yellow or yellow 
variegated flower, and at one time he had 
eighty or more yellow seedlings on trial. 
The same seed pod that produced Eldorado 
also produced two other very good sorts, 
.Shei.mtre namely, Kitty Clover and Eulalie. 




Carnation Culture in California 

By John H. Sikvf.ks. S.\n Francisco. 

Outdoor culture of carnations, commonly called "pinks," is well under- 
stood in California, because the plants, with us, are quite hardy, on account 
of the mildness of our climate, and, when properly cut-back and taken care 
of, last in the garden for a number of years. These plants in former days 
were generally raised from imported seed; and if any variety proved to be 
extra good, it was propagated by layers, or cuttings. Before greenhouse 
culture of carnations was introduced, plants were raised in this way, set 
out in rows, and left outside until the end of November. Being then in 
full bud, they were taken up from the ground and placed on benches in 
greenhouses, for whatever they would yield in flowers for the holidays. 

281 



Carnation Culture in California 

Tliis was necessary liere, in San Francisco and suburbs, because when 
wc (111 get a "norther," and there is snow on the Coast Range, the wind 
becomes quite cutting, sufficiently so to shrivel the buds and make the 
flowers unsalable. In the southern part of California, in Santa Barbara, 
Los Angeles, and other points, this does not occur; and, therefore, the 
florists in that region are able to cut thousands of blooms from their fields 
of carnations all winter through. True, these cannot compare with green- 
house-grown flowers ; but they seem to find buyers and admirers, because 
the florists continue to extend their fields more and more every year. 
Growers there do not practice disbudding, which, carried out only in a 
partial manner even, would no doul.it increase the size and perfection of 
their blooms. 

Having heard of the very successful growing of carnations under glass 
in the East, and having received from there such varieties as Buttercup, 
Century, Heintz's White, President Degraw, Sunrise, and others, we 
began, in 1889, to hybridize these with a few of our seedlings that were 
grown from seed imported from Erfurt, Germany, among which we had 
found some flowers of fine colors and of fair size and shape. Seedlings pro- 
duced by this, our first attempt at hybridization, were given a touch of the 
blood of imported hardy European varieties, to increase the dimensions of 
the flowers, and with excellent results. Having in the meantime continued 
to import all the latest novelties in carnations from the East, we followed 
up our experiments with some of them, and had the satisfaction to number, 
in our possession, in 1895, some seventy distinct varieties of greatest promise. 
Of these we catalogued, in 1897, fifty varieties, most of which are yet 
retained by us as standard sorts. It is true, that, strictly speaking, these 
were not all commercial varieties, according to Eastern ideas, because a 
great many were variegated, but they were nevertheless of large and per- 
fect shape, fragrant, long-stemmed, prolific and constant bloomers. Since 
then, our eiTorts have been more directed to obtaining self-colored carnations. 

During my visit, last spring, to several cities in the East, I could not 
help noticing and admiring the superior construction of the greenhouses 
on the large establishments there, in comparison with our structures. The 
substantial foundation, the iron frames and supports, the excellent venti- 
lating apparatus, the draining tubes under the beds, and such like, are 
seldom met with here, and then only in private places. Perhaps it is not 
quite so necessary in our part of the country to build such solid houses, 
on account of the lesser degrees of heat in summer and cold in winter; but 
from the standpoint of economy alone, it would be wise, when one does 

282 



Carnation Culture in California 



build, to build well ; and if one can't afford it, to build less, otherwise a 
grower must be prepared to rebuild every seven years, at least. 

I find the actual culture and treatment of carnations here about similar 
to those on the other side of the Rockies, with the exception of some dates. 
We begin making our cuttings about January i ; planting from two and 
one-half inch pots into the open ground, in the beginning of April, when 
heavy rains are not expected any more. After thoroughly cleaning and 
whitewashing the houses and beds, we fill the latter with a mixture of soil, 
as follows : To ten loads of rich loam we add, according to quality, from 
one to two loads of clean sand, and three loads of good old cow manure. 

We start planting in the middle of July, and finish by the end of August. 
We find it necessary to assist the soil in the beds for the first time about 
the middle of December ; after that, monthly, by using liquid maiuire, and 
alternating with nitrate of soda. 

In training the flower shoots, we still adhere to the old practice of 
stretching twine to the sides and ends of the beds, attached to wires, in prefer- 
ence to the wire frames used in the East. 

Starting with healthy plants ; exercising cleanliness, affording plenty 
of fresh air, and not too much water during dull weather, maintaining about 
fifty degrees of temperature at night, will keep carnations healthy in Cal- 
ifornia, and, I suppose, almost anywhere. 



JOHN H. SIEVERS 

John H. Sievers, of San Francisco, was 
born in the city of Bremen, Germany, on 
(Jctober 31, 1837. After receiving his edu- 
cation he engaged in the mercantile business, 
and was clerk for two years in a large bank- 
ing house. In 1857 Mr. Sievers started from 
Hamburg, per clipper "Virginia," round Cape 
Horn for San Francisco, arriving there De- 
cember 25. He succeeded in obtaining a 
position as bookkeeper in a large French im- 
porting house. In 1861 he went as super- 
cargo to Manila, returning by the same vessel 
after a sojourn of four months. After sev- 
eral ventures in mining properties, without 
much success, he took a position as book- 
keeper in the Golden Gate Flour Mills. 

Mr. Sievers' love for flowers developed in 
his early youth, being heightened by a well- 
kept garden and nice collection of window 




JoH.N H. Sievers 



283 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

plants at his boyhood home. After coming to San Francisco he gratified his taste for 
flowers, trees and shrubs, and built a greenhouse in his garden. In the beginning of the 
year 1871 he concluded to associate himself in business as a florist with Mr. F. A. Miiler. 
a practical gardc-iier, still retaining his position at the flour mills. Subsequently, the 
latter position was abandoned, and his entire time devoted to the florist and nursery 
trade. In 1875, the eventful and rather disastrous year for San Francisco, when the 
Bank of San Francisco failed, Mr. Sievers was in the Hawaii Islands superintending 
the removal of a large number of royal and other varieties of palms, crotons, tree 
ferns, etc., for which quite a demand had been created ; but when he reached port with 
a whole deckload of magnificent plants in boxes, the financial conditions were so 
demoralizing that sales were out of the question and credit impossible, necessitating 
a new start in business, with more or less success at the beginning, but which has 
ultimately culminated in a most satisfactory manner, as is now pretty generally 
known. 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

iJvJoHN U. DuNLOp, Toronto 

There is no commercial flower cultivated in the Dominion of Canada 
that has made as great progress toward general p<ipularity, during the past 
ten years, as the carnation. 

As I am writing particularly of the progress made in Canadian carna- 
tion culture, I will ask my readers to consider for a moment the varieties 
grown twelve or fourteen years ago, when the area of glass devoted 
to the growing of carnations was very limited. The varieties then culti- 
vated, as I now remember, were President Degraw, La Purite, Mrs. Car- 
negie, and Crimson King. I can remember a bench of the Crimson King, 
which was growing remarkably well, about fourteen years ago. This bench, 
but forty feet in length by five feet in width, produced more than sufficient 
flowers of its particular color to supply the demand in Toronto; in fact, 
the blooms were frequently offered at $1.00 per 100, and the average whole- 
sale price of carnations during the holidays and through the winter was 
but the modest sum of $1.50 per 100. As the Divine Flower was receiving 
more attention from the florists of the United States and a few firms had 
branched out as carnation specialists, and devoted their entire establishments 
to the culture of this flower, and were producing blooms showing marked 
improvement over the ordinary commercial varieties grown at that time, 
the possibilities of carnation culture began to be realized. Who will fail 
to remember with what delight we viewed the first blooms of the varieties 

284 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

Daybreak, J. J. Harrison, Silver Spray, and the other novehies of that 
period? At that time John Thorpe, who could see farther into the future 
of American carnation culture than the majority of us, and who realized 
the great possibilities of this flower, prophesied the production of four-inch 
carnation blooms — a prophecy which was ridiculed and made light of by 
some. 

The Canadian growers were then beginning to devote more attention 
to the carnation, and gradually increasing their plantings, buying of the 
new varieties more conservatively than their brothers in the craft of the 
United States — a conservatism in which the Canadian florist still persists, 
refusing to part with a tried variety for a new one until he is thoroughly 
satisfied that the newer candidate is worthy of succeeding the old. This 
condition has been largely brought about by the number of worthless varie- 
ties disseminated in the early history of placing new seedling carnations 
upon the market. These frequently looked well from the illustrations, and 
came highly recommended from the introducers, but they proved of little 
value after a year's trial. The small demand resulting from the above cited 
experience has been largely overcome, and confidence regained by the evi- 
dent care exercised by the modern producer in sending out new varieties, 
which are now, generall}', the result of years of careful selection and cross- 
ing, giving us thereby a strain of free blooming, stiff stemmed, large flowers. 

The American Carnation Society has done more to stimulate the present 
interest in carnation growing than any other agency that I know of. Its 
annual convention held in connection with its splendid exhibition of the best 
products grown upon the American continent, cannot help but educate and 
stimulate the grow-er to attain a higher standard, and the valuable and highly 
instructive essays prepared by the best minds in the profession, all tend to 
the same end. 

The past five years an annual carnation meeting has been held m 
Toronto during the first week in March, w-here the growers from surround- 
ing cities and distant points exhibit their best products, and also come to 
see the new varieties that are to be disseminated during the season. These 
meetings have proved highly beneficial, and have served as efficient 
educators, by providing a means of comparing the standard varieties grown 
in different localities with the newer candidates for favor, and have ma- 
terially aided in the dissemination of the new varieties. 

Statistics compiled as completely as it is possible with the material at 
my command, show that there are about 450,000 carnation plants now 
grown in Canada under about 550,000 feet of glass, which statement will 

28s 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

give an idea of the growth that has taken place since the small beginning 
of twelve years ago. 

The type of house devoted to carnation culture in the Dominion has 
not been overlooked. In the early days of the industry any house was con^ 
sidered good enough for this plant, the prevailing idea appearing to be to 
get as much timber and as little light as possible. This ancient type of house 
has gradually given away to improved structures, until to-day we have the 
iron frame, the wide glass, insuring all the light possible, with a minimum 
of shade. What is the result ? The finest blooms are now grown to the 
greatest perfection and sell at prices four to five times higher than were 
obtained ten years ago. And the end is not yet ; for, if the present ratio of 
increase is maintained, the estimated area of glass devoted to carnation 
culture should be doubled in the next five years, with attendant increase of 
production. 

The Canadian grower has as yet produced but few new varieties. 
That work is carried on extensively and successfully by specialists in the 
United States, and few of our florists have had the time or patience to 
pursue hybridizing to any extent. But the Canadian florist is fully alive 
to the popularity of the Divine Flovvfer, and will in future devote more time 
and money in order to produce the best results in its culture; and in the 
coming years he mav be in a position to compete for the coveted honor of 
originating and introducing new and meritorious varieties of this popular 
flower. 

A few words as to the cultivation of the carnation in Canada : One 
of the most important features of the season's success depends on the care 
exercised in the selection of cuttings, and the propagating bed. Our first 
batch of cuttings is taken when the first crop of bkxim is maturing, and 
the plants are growing vigorously, usually from the loth to the istli of 
December. These cuttings we take from blooming stems, previous to the 
holiday crop being picked, and similar cuttings throughout the season ; 
otherwise they would be sacrificed. 

(Jur propagating house has been located on the north side of a three- 
cjuartcr span house, with northern aspect, which answered the purpose 
admirably ; but this year our new propagating houses run north and south. 
These are composed of a double ridge and furrow house, without partition, 
each compartment nine feet in width, which gives us a house eighteen feet 
wide, with two benches three feet six inches wide, one center bench seven feet 

2S6 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

wide, and two walks two feet wide. This makes an economical house, very 
handy for working in. The benches are framed to carry roofing slate for bot- 
toms. This we cover with soft brick laid on flat. On this we place the sand 
firmed to about two inches in depth. This bench gives a very gentle and 
uniform temperature in the sand, retaining the heat longer. One of its 
most noticeable features is. that the sand remains sweet longer (the one 
batch can be used several times), an entire absence of fungus, and the 
most satisfactory results as far as strong, well-rooted cuttings are con- 
cerned. The temperature we aim to maintain is, for the sand fifty degrees, 
and for the house about three to five degrees lower. 

The cuttings when rooted are removed to another house, generally 
one that has been cleared after a crop of chrysanthemums has been produced. 
The cuttings are dibbled in soil that is two inches in depth. This house we 
shade with cotton, tacked on the inside of the bars on the south side of the 
house, which shading is removed after the cuttings will stand the full sun- 
light, say in ten days to two weeks. This allows free circulation of air ; 
and the cuttings will take hold of the soil more quickly and grow stronger 
than when the shading is placed close to the cuttings, as is frequently done. 

For our stock for indoor planting we pot the cuttings that have been 
in the soil from eight to ten weeks, into three-inch pots. These are planted 
in a house about the first week in June. We use no shading on the house, 
but keep the ventilators open and the house as cool as possible by frequent 
syringing. 

Field planting begins about the 15th of ]\lay, as the weather in this 
section is too changeable to permit of earlier planting. 

The soil around the cuttings on the bench is cut in squares and these 
are taken in trays to the field, where beds are prepared for the young stock. 
A good firming of the soil around the plants at the time of planting is all 
that is necessary, with hoeing and cleaning during the time the plants are in 
the field, and pinching as soon as required. 

The removal of the plants from the field to the house begins about 
the first week in August. The benches having been cleared out, thoroughly 
coated with hot lime and filled with fresh soil, are ready to receive the 
new plants, wdiich are lifted carefully, with very little soil adhering to 
the roots. No time is lost in planting into permanent quarters. 

^^■e usually shade with a mud wash, which will remain on the glass 
long enough to give the plants a chance to take hold of the soil. I do not 

2S7 



Carnation Culture in Canada 

think it advisable to allow the shade to remain on too long, about two 
weeks at most being sufficient. 



JUHX H. DUXLOP 

The subject of tliis sketch was born in New York City on January 7, 1S55. 
He comes of Irish parentage. When he was seven years of age his parents 
removed to Toronto, Ont., where, while yet a lad, he spent two years in the book 
business, afterward returning to New York, where he worked for some time as 
a carpenter. In 1875 he returned to and finally settled in Toronto, leasing a news- 
stand and telegraph office from the Queen's Hotel. Up to this period he pos- 
sessed no practical knowledge of floriculture, but during quiet afternoons such 
books and papers as gave any instruction on the subject, and upon rose grow- 
ing in particular, were eagerly studied 

Having become acquainted with the 
theory of rose growing, he made his 
first venture as a florist by building a 
modest structure, of a size 6x 12 feet, in 
1880. This was doubled during the fol- 
lowing year, and the year thereafter a 
house. 8 X 50 feet, was built. This again, 
the succeeding year, gave place to a more 
modern structure, 12x50 feet, of the 
type known as the three-quarter span 
house. As the demand for choice roses 
was increasing, a large piece of ground 
was purchased on Lansdowne Avenue, 
near Bloor Street, where his present es- 
tablishment now stands. 

In 1885 Mr. Dunlop first forced the lily of 
the valley, which was considered quite a feat 
at that time. He also was the first to adopt 
the use of raised benches for the winter 
Inrcing of roses, which system has now su- 
perseded the old solid bed. 

Mr. Dunlop has always taken a lively 
interest in carnations, testing all the new 
varieties that are exhibited at the annual 
conventions of the Airerican Carnation 
Society. The yearly display of carnations at Toronto is due to Mr. Dunlop's 
initiative. He is an active member of the American Carnation Society, and has 
been president of the Canadian Horticultural Society, as well as its first secretary. 
He has been a member of the Society of American Florists for a nuinber of years, 
and has served upon its Executive Committee. He has also acted as president of 
the Toronto Gardeners and Florists' .Association, and it was due to his call for a 
meeting that the association was formed. 

288 




JdllN U. 1) 



Pioneer American Carnationists 



CHARLES ZELLER 

Charles Zeller, one of the earliest beginners in the growing of seedling carnations 
in America, was born seventy-five years ago at Lanzer, Department Haut-Rhin, Alsace, 

France, near Basle, Switzerland. In 1841 he 
went to his uncle, located at Basle, to learn 
the florist's business, but in a short time dis- 
covered that he could not there acquire 
everything according to his wishes. He 
then resolved to engage for a term of three 
years with Mr. Henry Fisher in Freidbourg, 
Grand Duchy of Baden, Germany, where he 
had an opportunity of learning florist, nur- 
sery, landscape and vegetable work. In 1844 
he returned to Basle, and for some time was 
employed by Mr. Hammerlin, superinten- 
dent of the Botanic Garden. In 1847 Mr. 
Zeller went to Paris, France, to get better 
acquainted with his mother tongue before 
he should be drafted as a soldier. Fortu- 
nately, he was exempted from military ser- 
vice by drawing the second highest number. 
He remained in Paris for some time, work- 
ing as a florist, landscape and vegetable 
gardener. Becoming disgusted with Paris- 
ian life, through the Revolution, he emi- 
grated to America, landing in New York on 
October 28, 1851, "full of inspiration" as he 
says, when he "got the first glimpse of the noble flag, the emblem of Liberty and 
Prosperity." He was then twenty-one years of age. It was a great disappointment 
to him that he could get no work in his own line of business, and for the winter sea- 
son he secured employment on the Hudson River Railroad, where, to use his own 
words, he "labored with a squad of twenty-two Irishmen, working with my spade ; 
and when they found out I could use a shovel, crowbar and pickaxe as well as the rest 
of them, they became my friends." 

With no regrets Mr. Zeller quitted this occupation in the spring of 1S52, and 
obtained a situation with Mateo Donati, florist, at Bloomingdale, N. Y. He later 
went to work for Mr. Mantell, of the same place, and subsequently for Mr. Rinney, of 
Lodi, N. J., where in doing some landscaping he became acquainted with Mr. 
John Dailledouze, with whom he formed a lasting friendship. Together they concluded 
to rent a place and go into business at Flatbush, N. Y. After a period of three 
years another partner was added, and the firm became Dailledouze, Zeller & Gard. 
It continued for fifteen years, when it was dissolved, each of the partners remaining 
in business for himself in separate establishments. 

Mr. Zeller, who throughout all his career has been a hard-working member of 
the craft, lost his father and mother when he was very young, and received a schooling 
of only two years; but he never missed an opportunity of obtaining knowledge. He 

289 




CH.4RLES Zeller 



Pioneer American Carnationists 

took for his motto the words inscribed on the monument of Charles Lambert, located 
behind the Protestant Church at Milhouse, which inscription told how the great 
astronomer became famous "by perseverance for those for whom he was doing a ser- 
vice." There was no greater recompense for him than to receive a candle to provide 
light in his room, that he might pursue his studies. "This," continues Mr. Zeller, "I 
preserved as my example." 



JOHN DAILLEDOUZE 

John Dailledouze, of Flatbush, New York, was born January i, 1828, in Geneva, 
itzerland. He received his early training as a florist in the nurseries of his father 

located there. In 1849 Mr. Dailledouze 
emigrated to America, landing at New Or- 
leans, where he worked at the florist and nur- 
sery business until 1858, when, with Charles 
Zeller, he formed a copartnership and es- 
tablished a business in Flatbush, N. Y. Sub- 
sequently Mr. Joseph Card was added to the 
concern. The firm was dissolved in 1868. 
Mr. Dailledouze continued to operate the 
greenhouses until his death, which occurred 
in 1882. The business was subsequently 
carried on by his widow until 1892, when the 
firm became Dailledouze Brothers, being 
composed of Messrs. Eugene, Paul and 
Henry Dailledouze, who have since devel- 
oped the business into one of large propor- 
tions, making a special feature of the carna- 
tion. 

Among the varieties introduced into com- 
merce by this firm are Prosperity, Alice 

T „ Roosevelt, and Bouton d'Or. 

John D.villedouze ' 




290 



INDEX 



Subjects marked with an asterisk (*) are Illustrations. 



PAGE 

Alegatiere. Alphonse, work of 21 

America, carnation in 31 

American carnations in Europe 37 

American carnations, introduction of 21 
American carnations, nomenclature 

251-256 
American Carnation Society, annual 

report of 250 

American Carnation Society, first ex- 
hibition of 24S 

American Carnation Society, history 

of 247 

American Carnation Society, list of 

essays read before 249 

American classification of. suggested. 219 
Ammoniacal solution of carbonate of 

copper 136, 137 

Amount of glass devoted to culture.. 32 

Anthracite 187 

Arthur, Prof. J. C, quoted 68 

Artistic decoration* 32 

As a florist's flower, first introduction 19 
Ashes, coal, use of in propagating. . 79 
Ashes, hardwood, use of in prepara- 
tion of soil 51 

Ashes, wood 66 

Aspect of forcing houses 154 

Bacteriosis* .■ 142 

Bearer, iron, for sub-irrigation bench* liJ5 

Beauties, some royal* 205 

Bedding varieties 190 

Beds, solid* 1C3 

Bench construction 161 

Bench, end of wooden* 162 

Bench, marking out the 105 

Bench, ordinai-y wooden 161 

Bench, propagating, construction of. 77 

Bench, setting plants on the* 109 

Bench, sub-irrigation 164 

Bench, sub-irrigation, construction of 165 
Bench, sub -irrigation, cross section 

of* : 166 

Bench, sub-irrigation, ready for ce- 
menting* 167 

Bench, sub-irrigation, section of*... 173 
Bench, sub-irrigation showing terra 

cotta foundation* 175 

Bench, ventilated tile 164 



Benches, cement 166 

Benches, cultivation of soil in 46 

Benches, draining 116 

Benches, filling 41, 102 

Benches, planting on 43 

Benches, sub-irrigation, built on slop- 
ing ground* 168 

Benches, sub-irrigation, testing tanks* 171 

Benching 41 

Bizarre carnation, English* 23 

Bizarre seedlings* 208,209 

Bizarres 218 

Blooms, case of. packed for shipment* 123 

Boiler, firebox or locomotive 179 

BoUers, horizontal tubular 179 

Boilers, sectional 178 

Boilers, steam, types of 186 

Bordeaux Mixture for rust 136 

Branch rot 139 

Buds, normal and abnormal* 69 

Building, disposition of houses 156 

Bunch of carnations with name tag* 121 

California carnation field, a* 36 

California, culture in 281 

Calyces, types of good* 200 

Calyx, a bursted* 202 

Canada, culture in 284 

Canadian ranges. Dunlop and Dale 

Estate* 152, 153 

Carnation Belt, the 36 

Cement, Portland 160 

Checking in the field, deleterious... 97 

Chitty, H. E.. work of 28 

Classifications, French, English, sug- 
gested American 218 

Coal, bituminous 187 

Cocoanut fiber, use of in propagating 79 

Coke iss 

Color 230 

Color, classification by 219 

Composts, old English 54 

Construction, bench loi 

Construction of houses 157 

Cottage Gardens Range* 35 

Cottage Gardens Range in a blizzard* 220 

Criterion of perfect flower in 1830 22 

Cross-breeding 19G 

Crude petroleum iss 



Index 



PAGE 

Cultivation after planting 97 

Cultivation, clean, inaperative in sum- 
mer time 100 

Culture, field 94 

Culture in California 281 

Culture in Canada 284 

Culture in different localities 257 

Culture in Lafayette. Ind 257 

Culture in Massachusetts 260 

Culture in Ohio 274 

Culture in Richmond, Ind 266 

Culture in the mountains 270 

Culture, necessity of good and rich, 

Hogg's maxims 60 

Cutting back 40 

Cutting back in field, time to cease.. 99 
Cuttings, desirable and undesirable*.. 72 

Cuttings, for pot cultui'e 194 

Cuttings, method of preparing 80 

Cuttings, packing for shipment 84 

Cuttings, propagating from 38 

Cuttings, putting in the sand bench... SI 

Cuttings, selecting 73 

Dailledouze Bros., estaljlishment of*. 33 
Dailledouze, John, biographical sketch 

(Portrait) 290 

Dailledouze & Zeller, early catalogue 

of 22 

Dailledouze, Zeller & Gard 21 

Dalmais. work of 21 

Dean, R., quoted S5 

Derivation of name 17 

Britten and Holland quoted IS 

Chaucer quoted 18 

Drayton quoted IS 

Gerarde quoted IS. 19 

Prior, Dr., quoted IS 

Shakespeare quoted 18 

Spencer quoted 18 

Stevens quoted IS 

Theophrastus quoted 19 

Turner quoted IS 

Development, history of its 21 

Digging plants from field 43, 105, 106* 

Disbudding 4S. 116 

Diseased plant, propagating from a.. 73 

Diseases 48 

Diseases and injuries 134 

Diseases, bibliography of 143 

Dees it pay to do things well? 238 

Donati, work of 22 

Don's Gardener's Dictionary quoted. 22 

Dorner. Fredk., work of 28 

Dorner, Fredk., biographical sketch 

(Portrait) 259 

Dorner, Fredk.. Method of growing 

new varieties 216 

Draining benches 116 



Dunlop. John H.. biographical sketch 

(Portrait) 288 

Enchantress* 101 

Enchantress, house of* 156 

English Bizarre carnation* 23 

English blood in American carnations 25 

English classification 218 

English method of preparing soil 41 

Essays, read before American Car- 
nation Society 249 

Establishment of Dailledouze Bros.*. 33 
Establishment of J. D. Thompson 

Cam. Co.* 37 

Evapoiating pan — Lonsdale 83 

Exhibition, American Carnation Soci- 
ety's first 248 

Fairy ring spot 138 

Falconer, Wm., quoted 134 

Fancies 218 

Fancy varieties* 211 

Feeding benched plants 47 

Fenn, Harry, house of* 223 

Fertility, what becomes of our? 61 

Fertilizers and manures 61 

Fertilizers, book on, by Voorhees 62 

Fertilizers, commercial, used in field 

or bench culture 53 

Fertilizers, prices of 64, 65, 66 

Fertilizing 196 

Field culture 94 

Field method of preparing soil 41 

Field, planting from the 102 

Field, planting in the 40 

Field plants ready for lifting* 104 

Field, preparing, for horse culture... 95 

Field soils, preparing 40 

Field, ten minutes after digging was 

commenced* 107 

Fire-clay for shading 44, 110 

Fisher, Peter, work of 29 

Fisher, Peter, bioeraphical sketch 

(Portrait) 265 

Fisher, Sewell. work of 27 

Flakes 218 

Flamands 218 

Flats 89 

Flower room, a wholesale grower's*. 119 

Flowers, bunching 120 

Flowers, cutting, method of 120 

Flowers, grading 120 

Flowers, picking, packing and shipping 118 
Flowers, proper labeling of boxes,.. 124 

Flowers, shipping 118 

Flowers, shipping, box method 122 

Flowers, shipping, bunch method,... 122 
Flowers, shipping, in cold weather... 125 

Flowers, time to cut 117 

Flowers, treatment of. after cutting. 121 



Index 



PAGE 

Forcingr houses 148 

Forcing houses, aspect of 154 

Forcing houses, size of glass for .... 15 1 

Form 230 

Fragrance 230 

Freak flowers* 207 

French classification 218 

Frost, injuries from 92 

Fuels 187 

Fumigation 48 

Fungus following heavy rainfalls.... 108 

Fusarium leaf -spot* 140 

Future of the carnation 232 

Gardeners' Magazine of Botany, quot- 
ed 226 

Gillyflower 18. 19 

Glass, planting under 107 

Glass, size of, for forcing houses.,,. 154 

Glenny. George, quoted 226 

Governor Roosevelt* 26 

Governor Roosevelt, bench of* 46 

Governor Roosevelt, houses of*.... 42, 4.5 

Grading flowers 120 

Green fly 127 

Greenhouse culture — general 38 

Greenhouse culture, preparation of soil 

for 41 

Greenhouse heating 177 

Greenhouse structure, requisites in.. 157 

Grenadines 21S 

Growing in the South 279 

Habit 231 

Habits should be studied 47 

Hardy carnations 191 

Header* 57 

Heating, greenhouse 177 

Heating, hot water systems 177 

Heating, hot water closed or Perkins 

method ISO 

Heating, hot wate open expansion tank 

method 177 

Heating, hot water pressure method. 178 

Heating, hot water pump method ISO 

Heating, single pipe method 186 

Heating, steam systems of 1.S2 

Heating, steam gravity method 182 

Heating, steam positive return meth- 
od 183 

Heating, steam pump exhaust 185 

Heating, steam vacuum method 185 

Heintz, Rudolph, work of 25 

Hill, B, G., work of 29 

Hill, E. G., biographical sketch (Por- 
trait) 269 

Hogg, Thos., quoted 24,60 

Hogg, Thos., formula for preparation 

of soil 54 

Horse culture, preparing field for 95 

Hot water heating systems 177 



PAGE 

House, interior view of — Hitchings* . . 155 
House, section of % span — Hitchings* 149 
House, section showing latest type of 

— Lord & Burnham* 151 

House, type of U-bar semi-curvilinear 

roofed— Pierson-Sefton Co.* 160 

Houses, construction of 157 

Houses, forcing 148 

Houses, types of 150 

Hovey's Magazine, 1862, quoted . , . . 20 

Hybridization 196 

Hybridizing tools* 197, 198 

Ideal Carnation, the 226 

Ideal flower, attributes of 227 

Injuries and diseases 134 

Insects and fumigation 48 

Insects and preventives 127 

Introducing new varieties into com- 
merce 212 

Introduction into America as a garden 

plant 20 

Introduction into Great Britain .... 17 

Iron framework for houses 157 

Iron U-bar construction, new galvan- 
ized 159 

Kedzie, Professor, quoted 63 

Lafayette, Ind.. culture in 257 

Layering, propagation by 85 

Lifting and planting from the field.. 102 

Lifting, early versus late 42 

Like produces like 71 

Lime 47 

Lime, use of. in preparation of soil... 51 

Liquid manures, formulie for 66. 67 

Locations of large establishments ... 34 

Long Island, development on 22 

Maddock's formula for preparation of 

soil 54 

Manure, Boomer method of making. . 70 

Manure, sheep 47 

Manure, stable 52 

Manure, water 47 

Manures and fertilizers 61 

Manures, liquid, formulae for 66 

Manures, natural 69 

Marc, Charles 21 

Massachusetts, culture in 260 

McGowan. John, work of 28 

Medicinal properties 18 

Monthly calendar of operations 240 

Moss, sphagnum, use of, in packing 

cuttings' 84 

Moss, sphagnum, use of. in propagat- 
ing 79 

Mountains, culture in the 270 

National Carnation and Picotee So- 
ciety of England 20 

Natural manures 69 



293 



Index 



PAGE 

New varieties, growing of, Dorner 

metliod 216 

New varieties, introducing into com- 
merce 212 

Nicoticide 195 

Nitrogen 63 

Nitrogen, sources ot 64 

Nomenclature, American carnation 251-256 
Numlier ot plants grown annually... 34 

Number of years in cultivation 19 

Ohio, culture in 274 

Oil. fuel 188 

Operations, monthly calendar of 239 

Origin and early history 17 

Overfeeding, results of 68 

Packing and shipping field -grown 

plants 144 

Packing cuttings for shipment 84 

Paint, Princess metallic 163, 169 

Peculiarities and traits 221 

Pepper, red 127 

Perfection in carnations 230 

Phosphoric acid 64 

Picking, packing and shipping flowers 118 

Picotees 218 

Picotees. perfect* 227. 228 

Pinching back young plants 90 

Plant, young, ready for shifting*... 90 

Planting, cultivation after 97 

Planting in the field 40, 94, 96 

Planting on benches 43 

Planting in the field, plants ready for* 91 
Planting out young stock, treatment 

preparatory to 87 

Planting under glass 107 

Plants, benched, feeding 47 

Plants, carrying to greenhouse* 30 

Plants, digging from field 43. 105 

Plants, field-grown, packing and ship- 
ping 144 

Plants, field-grown, time to dig 144 

Plants, field-grown, treatment of, af- 
ter long shipment 146 

Plants, raising from seed 38 

Plants, stopping in the field 98 

Plants, young, time to put in field.. 92 
Plants, young, turning out of pots... 95 

Plat, Sir Hugh, quoted 220 

Ploughing 41. 52 

Plow. Firefly Hand 94 

Posts 161 

Potash 65 

Pot culture, carnations for 191 

Pot culture, compost for 194 

Pot culture, cuttings for 194 

Pot culture, Hogg on 191 

Pot culture, top-dressing 193 

Potting 87 

Potting young stock 39 



PAGE 

Preventives of insects 127 

Prices of cut flowers 34 

Prices of fertilizers 64, 65, 66 

Productiveness of soils' 62 

Profits of carnation growing 237 

Propagating and shipping young stock 71 
Propagating bench, brick-bottomed*.. 78 
Popagating bench, construction of.... 77 
Propagating bench, shaded with cur- 
tains* 75 

Propagating from a diseased plant... 73 

Propagating house 77 

Propagating house, even-span, exte- 
rior* 15S 

Propagating house, short span to 

South, exterior* 79 

Propagating house, short span to 

South, interior* 76 

Propagating house, temperature of... 82 
Propagating in America, early prac- 
tices 73 

Propagating media 79 

Propagating wood* 74 

Propagation l)y layering 85 

Propagation from cuttings 38 

Prosperity* 117 

Putty knife* .' 81 

Rai-sing from seed 196 

Red spider* 128,129 

Remedies and preventives for stem 

rot 141 

Reproductive organs* 196 

Riclimond, Ind., culture In 266 

Rooting cuttings, propagation by... 71 

Rose Leaf Extract 127. 195 

Royal Horticultural Society of Eng- 
land 249 

Rust 135 

Rust, Bordeaux Mixture for 136 

Rust, salt solution for 136 

Rust, spraying formulas for 137 

Salt solution as preventive of red spi- 
der 130 

Salt solution for rust 136 

Sand, temperature of 82 

Sand, tool for firming* SO 

Sand, use of in propagating 80 

Sash, cloth-covered, use of 83 

Sash house, original types of* 148 

Schmidt, work of 21 

Scotch soot 47 

Scott, Wm.. bench of. showing sup- 
ports* 115 

Seed, raising from 38, 196 

Seed, sowing of 199 

Seedling raisers, some mistakes of.. 206 

Seedlings, Bizarre* 208,209 

Seedlings, colors, selection of 204 

Seedlings, early 21 



Index 



PAGE 

Seedlings, first exhibited in America.. 20 

Seedlings, planting in field 201 

Seedlings', selection of parents 210 

Seedlings, temperature for 199 

Seedlings, treatment of, for winter 

flowering 203 

Seedlings, vase of selected* 203 

Seedlings, watering 201 

Selection of stock in digging 43 

Seymour, Prof., quoted 134 

Shading after watering cuttings 88 

Shading, formula for 110 

Shading houses before planting 109 

Shading, methods of 44 

Shelmire, W. R., work of 29 

Shelmire, W. R., biographical sketch 

(Portrait) 281 

Shifting young plants 89 

Shipment, plants packed for* 145 

Shipping and packing field-grown 

plants 144 

Shipping young stock 71 

Slevers, J. H., biographical sketch 

(Portrait) 283 

Simmons, W. P., work of 27 

Size 231 

Soap preparations for spraying 130 

Sod Crusher, Florist Supply Co.'s... 53 

Sod in soil preparation 53 

Soil, cultivation of in benclies. . . .46. 114 

Soil. English method of preparing 41 

Soil, Field method of preparing 41 

Soil, Hogg's formula for preparing... 54 
Soil, Maddock's formula for preparing 54 
Soil, potting, composition of, for young 

plants 53 

Soil, preparation of for greenhouse 

culture 41 

Soil sterilizer, filling the bench* 103 

Soil sterilizer, steam pipes in position 

ready for filling in soil* 55 

Soil, sterilizing on the bench* 59 

Soil used when shifting plants 53 

Soils 49 

Soils, bench, preparation of, in the 

field 52 

Soils, field, preparing 40 

Soils, preparation of for bench culture 50 

Soils, productiveness of 62 

Soils, selection of for field culture... 49 

Soils, sterilizing 56 

Soot, Scotch 47 

South, growing in the 279 

Sports and variations 224 

Spo£ 137 

Spot, fairy ring 138 

Spraying formulae for rust 137 

Staking 46, 111 

Stalk borer 133 



PAGE 

Starr, Chas. T.. work of 25 

Steam boilers, types of 186 

Steam heating systems 182 

Stem rot 1S8 

Stem rot leraedies and preventives for 141 

Sterilization, steam 56 

,Ster'lizcr in operation* 58 

Sterilizing apparatus 56 

Sterilizing soil on the bench* 59 

Sterilizing soils 56 

Stewart. Prof. F. C, quoted 140 

Stock, selection of. in digging 43 

Stock, young, time to set out 92 

Stock, young, treatment of prepara- 
tory to planting out 87 

Stopped plants* 99 

Stopping 40 

Stopping in field 98 

Stopping in greenhouse 47 

Stopping young plants 90 

Store, interior of a wholesale flor- 
ist's* 124 

Stuart. Wm.. quoted 67 

Sturgis, Prof. "Wm. C. quoted 143 

Sub-irrigation 170 

Sub-irrigation and surface benches, 

comparison of results from 176 

Sub-irrigation bench 164 

Sub-irrigation in celery districts of 

Michigan 170 

Sub-irrigation in Europe 171 

Substance 230 

Sulphur and lime formula for red spi- 
der 129 

Sulphur and .linseed oil mixture for 

red spider 129 

Sulphur and tobacco mixture for red 

spider 130 

Summer blooming, carnations for 189 

Summer treatment of young plants.. 92 

Supports Ill 

Supports, combination method of*. 46, 114 
Supports, end, of iron, for stretching 

wire* 113 

Supports, prices of 113 

Supports, wire ring* 112 

Swayne, Wm., work of 27 

Tailby. Jos., work of 28 

Temperature of propagating house... 82 

Temperature of sand 82 

Temperature, overhead in propagating 

house 83 

Temperature under benches in propa- 
gating house 83 

Thompson, J. D.. Carnation Co.'s es- 
tablishment* 37 

Thorpe, John, work nf 25 

Thrips. tabaci* 131 

Tile bench, ventilated 164 



295 



Index 



PAGE 

Tile, sub-irrigation' 174 

Time to pollinate 199 

Time to set out young' stoclc in field. 92 

Tobacco dust 127 

Tobacco, evaporating in propagating 

house 83 

Tobacco for fumigating 48 

Tobacco mixture 127 

Topping in greenhouse 47 

Traits and peculiarities 221 

Treatment after benching until plants 

are in bloom Ill 

Tying and staking 46 

U-bar, new galvanized iron, construc- 
tion* 159 

Variations and sports 224 

Varieties, bedding 190 

Varieties, early, in America 22 

Ventilating forcing house 1S4 

Viola Allen* 110 

Voorhees, Edward B.. quoted 02 

Ward. C. W., work of 29 

Watering OS 

Watering bench after planting 44 



PAGE 

Watering freshly potted cuttings .... 88 

Watering seedlings 201 

Weber, Hemy. biographical sketch 

(Portrait)* 273, 274 

■miite carnations, types of* 213 

WTiite flowers, ideal 206 

■^Tio shall grow carnations? 233 

Wild state 17 

Window, a wholesale florist's* 93 

Winter culture in England, origin of. 20 

Wire-netting for supporting 114 

Wiring Ill 

Witterstfetter, Richard, work of 29 

Wittei'Stcetter, Richard, biographical 

sketch (Portrait) 278 

Wood ashes 66 

Wood best for propagating 74 

Woods, best for posts and bench con- 
struction 161 

Worms, cut 132 

X. Lr. All compound for thrips 132 

Yellow flowers, difficulty of obtaining. 208 

Yellow varieties* 215 

Zeller, Chas., biographical sketch 
(Portraits 289 




296 



MAY 8 1903 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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